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Show Wednesday, May Pi c 1 0 rj a Refried beans: What's in a name? By CECILY BROWNSTONE enMore in vogue today kitchen a than ever before is the cyclopedias, text written or kitchen cooks carefully esthete's pictoral follows clear, top encyclopedia of food. quality photographs, This is, quite simply, a thus providing a comprehensive guide thorough resource for to foods of all sorts aspiring gourmets and raw or cooked, har- food connoisseurs vested or slaughtered, alike. A slightly new angle common or exotic full on the kitchen enaccompanied by color photographs and cyclopedia has been illustrations. taken by the editors of Of the most recent of Metropolitan Home" these, perhaps the magazine. Their 380 WITH TORTILLAS pound (about 2 to 2li cups) dry 1 pinto beans Water cup chopped -- (medium-fine- ) onion 1 clove garlic, minced 2 teaspoons le ss ays Kitchen encyclopedia is welcome gift for food connoisseur beans from scratch and using them to mound on tortillas. This way they make a good, nutritious and economical dish for a weekend brunch, lunch or supper. RETRIED BEANS Associated Press Food Editor When I first came on recipes for Mexican refried beans (frijoles refritos), I wondered why the beans were called refried. I was puzzled because the recipes called for cooking such beans as dry pintos and draining them, then frying and mashing them in a sldllet with a goodly amount of fat. Why were they named refried? If you, too, have been curious about the terminology, you may be interested to know that, according to one culinary researcher, the re prefix may mean well fried rather than fried again. As I looked through the material on refried beans stashed away in my files, I came on some interesting ways to garnish the beans. For example, when they are served as a side dish, one good cook likes to top them with strips of sweet green pepper, coarsely shredded Cheddar cheese and crisply cooked crumbed bacon. The following recipe gives directions for making refried Sun Advocate, Price, Utah 9B 19, 1982 salt teaspoon pepper xk cup bacon fat, see Note 8 h corn tortillas, heated Shredded iceberg lettuce Diced tomato Sour cream Sliced scallions Cover the beans with a generous amount of water (at least 6 cups) and soak overnight; drain and discard the soaking water. Into a saucepot, turn the beans, 6 fresh water, the onion, garlic, cups salt and pepper. Bring to a boil; simmer, covered, until the beans are tender P2 hours. Drain, reserving Yk cups of the liquid. six-inc- Refried beans are served on tortillas with savory toppings. -- widely In a large skillet heat the bacon fat. Add the beans; mash (with a potato masher, if available) and kitchen New American Food by Waverly Cooks Root and Ingredients by Philip Dowell and Adrian Bailey are the most informative and impressive, both in their scope and in their presentation. In each of these tortillas; top with the lettuce, tomato, sour cream and scallion. Serve at once. Makes 8 servings. cook slowly until all the bacon fat is absorbed. Continue cooking, adding the reserved Yk cups liquid and stirring 4 cup at a time often, until the liquid is absorbed. Makes about 4 cups. Mound the refried beans on the acclaimed page Note: Youll need to render xk pound of bacon to make the 2 cup bacon fat called for. In order to keep the fat from browning, cook the bacon slowly. reference book, The One must commend the editors ambitious attempt to both chronicle food groups and provide recipes for new the way of cooking. (The new American cuisine is American identified the as contemporary union of tastes international and cooking techniques with all American ingenuity.) exhaustive Their coverage ranges from fashioned - old Comfort Foods that Cuisine (Harmony nourish the soul as $27.50), well as the body (such Books, combines a broad as oatmeal and apple pictorial essay on brown betty) to a section unprepared foodstuffs Feasting with scores of recipes with complete menus finished and and product photographs. planning strategies for special occasions (such as Thanksgiving or a New clam- England bake). section The on First Courses provides recipes for an international sam- pling of hors d oeuvres, while Last Courses gives readers their choice of both elaborate and simple dessert fare. 10 Stretch Your DudgeB"lach IJcolt Heats and Savings on Famous Brands Hawaiian ues, one of the most informative chapters in the book, is of inestimable value to the novice cook and an for course Fruit Drinks Orange, Grape, Punch or Early Bird Brand Your Choice a $ Vanilla Ice Cream Sco,ch Buy 17 oz. cans . 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