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Show XI)i Salt i'ukf a rib mu 11.111 8 y Sunday Mommy. I'elnii.iry m. I'tso p.,.., oM . By Carolyn Munson Lifestyle Fashion Write! The word is out - iu.ui DALLAS can no longer live by one look alone By day he is all business in ins traditional or more direetional suit His off hours, however, reipi.ie a different look. Participant or spelts dressing is a must for a man's leisure time. And that's the fun o! it The Men's Fashion Ass.nuati n's presentations just concluded in Da made this point. Although there were differing opinions as to just what a business look is or should be sportswear is a dass by itself You've heard it before but narrow remains the silhouette Narrow lapels, ties and small shirt collars are still the look. Interest for spring and summer then, is in the fabric and texture ot suits, sport coats and slacks for the more mature man's dressed up look Suits for younger men, traditionally a testing ground for more advanced fashion concepts, are more direetional featuring padded shoulders, double breasted models, (invented jackets, straight leg pleated pants and two piece suits In a seminar featuring tailored do ig. the MFA's fashion director. Chip Toliieit. told the fashion press that silk u those who i an afford it and the look o: silk iior the majority! are strong influences in suits for spring treatments are impor taut too, he explained, and linen and linen looks are also prominent shown mostly in blends and imitations lor these who shy away from too much w rmkling. Patterns run from plains and fancy plains to stripes and some muted plaids. Colois highlight the natural tones such as ecru and Ijeige hut medium-ton'nnsey" colors are the real spice the season Rii.t camel and tan combined with pale blues and greens create discreet variations (Irayed blues are gaining in a dressier vein Pure silk and the look of silk dominate sport coats for spring. A linen look is also featured with surface interest at its best in a linen, silk, polyester and wool blend that looks like ot tw eed slacks arc lightweight New crsions ei the cloths found in sport coats. There also are many renditions of slack favorites such as poplins, khakis, twills, cords, seersuckers and a few India madrases. Cabling strength is a two wav stretch fabric borrowed from sportswear to provide comfort Favorite Is StraigM-Igge- d Tolbert estimates 10 percent of the new slacks are pleated with THE favorite straight-leggemeasuring about 20 inches at the knees and bottoms In sharp contrast to office hours, Tolbert stated that " Fverylhing the American male wears for watching or working at sport will be colorful am! look like it was designed for fun "The use of vivid hues that means turn from bright) marks a past seasons when soft, neutral tones predominated,'' he said Fireman red, signal flag yellow, life jacket orange, kelly green and even purple were shown in tops or bottoms or d e Iwith. Hawaiian-typ- shirts contrast e geometries and competition stripes have an Olympic flavor. But the Hawaiian tops are often with a dark background, rather than the usual white, and feature flowers, birds and palms in bright colors. As for stripes, not all are in the Olympic category. Some are in the classic cross striies and in addition to combining a single color and white, the stripes combine two or three colors in horizontal effects that look great in flat knits and terry cloth tops. Diametrically Opposed Looks Two diametrically optxised looks are available for spring. They are the "prep look, an updated Ivy League look reminiscent of the '50s, and an t disco look in which anything all-ou- goes Prep appears in such classics as madras shirts and slacks in bright rather than subdued colors, and this time around, guaranteed NOT to bleed. The $ame trend includes chino shorter slacks and walking shorts than the older Bermuda styles. And over it, with it and sometimes alone is the warm weather sweater of cotton string A disco look is a stand-ou- t in shiny ihintz-likfabrics teamed with a Hawaiian print shirt with the new pajama-stylcollar. Jackets are important to sportswear looks and come long, short, weather proofed or dressed-uenough to rival a sport eoat Tennis wear, that went to color for the last several seasons, is back to white hut bright is still there as edge trim For aetive exercise, jocks this season will take to velour-likterry cloths, stretch terries and fine, interlocking knits Even the lowly sweat shirts come on in the new seasonal eolors and jump suits have a "space" suit feeling India e e p e ' A -- it. A Frni mA 4rl kackcruwHi HWtK are Van print nff irn WriirM VYkiif print H i1 fft ipt ft ifti ift mfti ifiii ft in THyp fhi dtlSi r" i4mrftn iniiinrftMf miftinffTi r4Jo important jrinu Dippers iiffb trill riftii nrrffii Am nft ft flff mrt Att tilt tuft n ffli ft nfi m virfo pwtbte are for spring .antii miwiniiii)rfti;iiiinirttiijiA ftijfiu Wrr umkswm. lift Lrfti easwal dj 1 them hwk wiUk, yrithMwt by Calvin T V.vV fr skirt Klein. 'X .': |