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Show TV fcfett Iake Trif'uae, Smidzy, January 113 12, 18:3 Youd Belies' , JL jl - -- SJ- v'"'' x .V oic csj i v MU -- i k y? v. At V it c ien y wv- f - 12l' & v ... fWVyi. V y A - - -V , T j ' fn f A-- j. v j T - ' 'C b Cannibal Fish Seanulag the treacherous waters of the Marowijae River in Surinam, a M'l IM: A fcwsW Miwn 'wr, Fnwt iH linUM, SWvW w Sinnm nd wMctM 'on mnwr pwws Tno ucnwr rwt I SunacTrt pKHraw tM trrrnm Wnrfil -- rf (nw trvl wrt. obi Earlecn Tatro Associated P) ess inters TraALBINA, Surinam dition requires travelers to Or pay the river, drop a as they begin a journey on the watreacherous, gray-gree- n ters of the Marowtjne. There is ample reason tor tins Bushnegro superstition: g eels and piranha, abound, boulders crop Hip every few feet and rapids rule the narrows. The Marowijne, which varies hi width from almost a mile at the mouth to a few hundred yards inland, French Guiana and Surinam (formerly Dutch Guiana, now an autonomous part" of the Kingdom of the Netherlands). It winds 220 miles from the Tumucuma-qu- e Mountain range in Brazil to the Caribbean Sea. Descendants of Slaves Butshnegroes, descendants of African slaves who escaped from plantations in the 18th and 19th centuries, live m villages of thatched-roo- f huts along its banks. The few Europeans are missionaries ' or doctor! By Nick and "Kapitan" stands I pick a way through the rocky water by using a pole to check depths. the bow of a in His job pirogue. 21-fo- is to I The river divides Surinam, once Dutch Guiana, from French Guiana. have plastic shades to keep out ram, but they arent much help hi the w hite water. The boatman, dressed in green velour slacks, a print shirt, spends his few idle moments between rapids making a paddle for his wife. One end is painted in bright, Pieasso-esqu- e colors, and the other is earn'd in an intricate criss-cros- s pattern Pale Butterflies Sometimes thousands ot butterflies pale yellow swarm across the river, fluttering like confetti in a parade. Brightly colored, d birds flit across the tops ot trees along the banks. Jungle cats, wild pigs and snakes lurk out of sight behind the nearly wall of the jungle on either side of the river. Beyond, in the blue afternoon haze, are the green hills forested with valuable hardwood trees Almost every nnle. the roots of a village poke through a clearing and down a welJ-wor- n path come women to wash their clothes and children to splash in the river. Transistor Radios Transistor radios, platform shoes and an occasional tin roof are the only visible touches of Western civilizaSwirling geometric desigrs tion along the river. They are painted in blue, white and red brought up by piroque from adorn doors to the wood-- . Albina or St. Laurent, near roofs made the Caribbean coast. frame huts-'witof palm fronds. Long, slender Lumber and woodcarvings boats called pirogues are are taken downstream for used to travel from village to sale ip Albina and village. There are no roads Paramaribo, Surinams through the virtually im- capital. penetrable well of jungle and About 100 miles upriver is mountains that rise on either of the last outposts of one side of the Marowijne. civilization, a large river On the French side, one island called Stoelmansei-lanvillage proudly preserves Protestant missionaries political posters of Valery from Holland run a hospital Giscard dEstaiag, six there, the government months after L? was elected tains a hotel and Surinam president of France. Airways fbes in a small To Live Is Barter passenger plane every three Politicians come up river days. A few hours by boat beyond and bargain with the headmen." explains John Tam-siethe island is the object of the a senes a chicken farmer fiom tour-da- y journey Albina who moonlights as a of waterfalls known as which means riv er guide. "The village gets "Granholo, the a few tin roofs and the big hole in Tawki-Tawkpolitician gets all the votes m .common vernacular spoken the village. To live on the by Surinam's Bushnegro tribes and the multi-ethni- c river is to barter. the Caribbean Tam-sien- s pirogue is 24 people along feet long and just wide coast. Surinam's official lanis Dutch, but English, enough to seat two persons guage across. Its equipped with a Chinese, Javanese and Hindu are spoken by large chunks of engine. Upthe population. current and the river, against Arrange Trips rapids, it can travel about 50 miles a day. Trips up the Marowijne can A boatman, balancing on be arranged through travel e the sides, stands in agents in Paramaribo, or in the bow and picks a path Cay enne, French Guiana. through the rocky waters. He The cost of an expedition is uses a pole to test the about 50 a day per person depth and find rocks lurking but may is; cheaper for under the surface, then gives groups. Travelers sleep in hand signals to the motorman hammocks in open-side- d vilin hack. route. the huts along lage On the boatmans signal, Hammocks, food and transthe engine whines und the port to and from the nver are pirogue assaults the rapids. usually included in the price. Granholo, where the waterFor one long moment, the force of the straining engine falls range from 10 to JO feei and the dashing water fight in height, is impassable by each other to a standstill boat or rubber raft From before tlie boat lurches for- below, the waters appear to ward, bumping and scraping pour straight out of the the brown and slate-grewoods, splashing violently on boulders. The boatman a bed of boulders. Boats are pulled by rope up crouches down, but his feet are still firmly anchored a ramp with guide rails to the other side for travelers conastride the gunwhales. tinuing upstream. Ebi&e Boat Free Two day 8 bey mid Granholo If the pirogue hangs up on a waterfalls is an army oulsoftt rock, the boatman and motor-ma- that protects the settlements jump Into the rapids and of native Amerindian Indians shake it free from intrusion. 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