Show IN GUADALAJARA V 4 VII F a a 3 h t. t t l kr G lb Skin Peddler In Guadalajara Prepared by National Geographic Society Washington D. D C. C C. Service venerable city G GUADALAJARA of Mexico's west Is one of Mexico's tourist Sleepers run from Los Angeles through to Guadalajara Rails Halls also link the city with the sea at Manzanillo still another system ties It with Mexico City with the Gulf of Mexico and the Texas bor bor- der These railways with the nations nation's na- na tion's steadily growl growing g net of motor highways make Guadalajara an active active active ac ac- ac- ac tive distribution center Here cheap electric power ample labor and abundant raw materials stimulate various Industries These Include spinning and knitting mills candy and cracker works and shops famous famous famous fa fa- for their beautiful tiles and mosaics The arcades that shade the sidewalks sidewalks sidewalks side side- walks before stores facing a plaza shelter many street venders enders A hat peddler walks majestically alon along with 15 or 20 hats for sale stacked on his own head bead one atop the other other other oth oth- er like a n pagoda Another carries a long string of sandals Some are of straw others of rawhide and a afe afew afew fe few made from old automobile tires cut Into soles Country peons usually wear buggy buggy buggy bug bug- gy white drawers but custom now no decrees decre s that this badge of rural servitude shall not be worn In Guadalajara streets So at the edge of the city pants shops are open where trousers may be rented Just check your our drawers there and c rent a pair of pants as Impecunious American students may rent evening clothes for a party Changing sartorIal sartorial sartorial sar sar- standards howe however are destroying de- de this simple Industry Indians arrive in the city with baskets of assorted fruits guavas gourds tiny lemons cactus pears and mangoes On the pavement they arrange little piles one piles one kind of ot fruit here another there then the they squat down silently awaiting buyers buers If you want fruit buy it but dont don't ask questions Toys candles candies soft sort drinks postcards postcards postcards post post- cards newspapers pottery medallions medallions medallions medal medal- lions of the saints small melons white on one side like a fishs fish's belly everything from mule gear and old tools to wood carved sticks endIng ending ending end end- ing In ornate filigree balls for stirring stirring stirring stir stir- ring chocolate chocolate are are spread out for sale on on the sidewalk Good Merchandise In the Stores Inside the large stores of course Is modern merchandise Some AmerIcan American American Amer Amer- ican women wise In local ways say that If the stores dont don't carry the particular hat or gown they th-ey wish clever native nath-e women soon make malce them them copyIng copying if need be from no nomore nomore nomore more than a picture from an American American Amer Amer- ican Jenn fashion Journal Most lingerie dress goods millinery soaps perfume perfume perfume per per- fume and Jewelry are sold by French merchants Machinery hardware and such heavy goods are usually handled by Germans Few Americans are found In n retail retail re- re tail tall trade they with the British are more Interested in mines ranches power plants railways or banks If you ou buy any sizable article In Ina Ina n na a store the merchant whistles up a street porter to carry It home for you Persons of position would lose caste carrying a big parcel through the streets Porters even m-en carry big bags of silver coin to and from the banks banks and and for some reason are seldom molested Buy Bus your our dead mans man's bread here a bakers baker's sign may read around All Souls' Souls day At that time some Mexicans believe the spirits of departed relatives return to dine with their families The dining table becomes an altar and some foods are served In strange shapes such as candy skulls bI big and little with cherries for eyes ribs and leg bones made of chocolate or cakes baked In n the form of coffins Many churches in Mexico were built bunt on sites of ancient Aztec temples temples tem tern ples pies the heads of whose Idols were cut off ott b by zealous Spaniards In some churches church 5 fragments of heathen idols are built into the walls After the conquest Spain built literally thousands of of Mexican churches They dominate Guadalajara From here the padres marched building missions all the way to California Devotion of the Peons Horses and rebels were housed In some of these churches with priests and nuns Duns deported during the revo revo- But the faithful carried on Pious peons came for miles on their knees to the churches Old women shout shouting g the chants and litanies or counting their beads crawled to the altars on stiff old knees Girls knelt with crowns of thorns on their brows and small boys clutched at atthe atthe the crucifixes From Guadalajara out to the suburban suburban suburban sub sub- urban church at Zapopan Is but a short trip by tramcar but during an August feast peons hobble out outto outto outto to I It t on their knees taking all day When prayers are over they stage a costume play depicting the Spanish conquest of Jalisco Then Indian players dress and act net the parts of Spanish knights and the local IndIan Indian Indian In In- dian characters of that conflict In recent years education has been taken away from the church and nd the new generation tends to abandon abandon abandon aban aban- don these mimetic dances and dramatic dra- dra dramatic dramatic dra dra- matic rituals The chief edifice In Guadalajara Is the cathedral Its twin towers rise over the city visible sible I for miles On On feast da days s 's long strings of lights Illuminate the towers and at Easter East East- er the he bishop washes the feet of ot i twelve old men chosen at random from street crowds Rushing to aid the king of Spain In the Peninsular war went many men of Guadalajara Legend says money was sent too raised b by meltIng meltIng melt melt- Ing gold and silver plate and candlesticks candlesticks' candlesticks candlesticks candlesticks' candle candle- sticks sticks' from the cathedral In gratitude gratitude graU- graU I tude the king gave this church Murillos Murillo's great painting The Assumption Assumption Assumption As As- of the Virgin still sUB hangIng hangIng hang hang- Ing In the tile cathedral though many attempts have been made to buy or purloin It Fighting Bull-Fighting Loses Popularity The bull rin ring Is here of course I but such sports as boxing football and baseball have robbed It of old- old I time popularity Despite Its continuous continuous continuous con con- appeal to the peon who glories in Its cruel gory combats and survival al of a few other ha has fighting bull as a business is on the decline I Bulls from Spain are still sent to Mexico City where tourists help support the arena and some fighting fight fightIng ing animals are ore still raised on the West coast ranches for I jara One of these Is the old Rancho Rancho Ran Ran- cho clio San Jose de Conde In which dates dales from If 1550 O. O It Is one of Americas America's oldest ranches Its output output output out out- put of small black savage bulls went on for generations To perpetuate perpetuate perpetuate per per- the fighting Instinct the rule on this ranch was Kill every bull calf that does not seem to hate men Such a n plan Insures a bull ferocious as ns any wild animal One young bull on this ranch chased a vaquero up a tree and kept him treed till he nearly died of thirst When Cortez conquered Montezuma Montezuma Montezuma Monte- Monte zuma and founded New Spain he had with him one Don Nuno de Guzman Guz Guz- Guzman I man who soon rose to power and grew Jealous of his chief Eager to gain more honors and riches for himself De Guzman In 1529 quit the Aztec capital with picked SpanIsh Spanish Span Spans ish troops and many Indian allies to explore the unknown unknown unknown un un- un- un known regions farther west and north In In their travels De Guzman and his lieutenant Cristobal de deOnate deOnate deOnate Onate came upon a hu huge e Indian stronghold Fighting ensue ensued and nearby the Spaniards built their camp a cluster of huts Though moved about later Inter to various various various vari vari- ous neighboring sites a n town was laid out about in 1530 30 0 It was named for De Guzman's home town In Spain Guadalajara from the MoorIsh Moorish Moorish Moor Moor- ish Wad al meaning River of Rocks From the Icing king of Spain the new town got its coat of ot arms In 1539 j so It was really a white settlement nearly a century before the En English landed at Jamestown By 1560 Guadalajara had become Important Its chief activity was Indian slave hunting and the driving drI driving ing of these to work In the gold and silver sll mines Vast fortunes were thus amassed I urlus u homes were built j and New Galicia of which Guadalajara was Vas the capital then Included not only the present state of Jalisco but much of what Is now five or six other Mexican states reaching up to Sinaloa Visit certain old Guadalajara family fam tam family ily By homes now and you are astonished astonished aston aston- at the wealth and beauty of heirlooms from colonial days Handmade Handmade Hand Hand- I made silverware even table services of gold goM heavy Spanish chests chestR bound In leather and copper miniatures jewelry crucifixes and old paintings guitars Inlaid with pearl historic weapons hand carved tables and other furniture so hea heavy that It can be moved only with Theold Theold The old made hand made locks on front doors are often so massive that the l key ey itself it itself itself it- it self may be as ns big and heavy as u a common hatchet say a foot long |