Show I. I es 1 Orient rient T Advance Designs Designs Showing Showing I How o tl e eness Y cr 11 The Fas Fashion Forecast st 1 Q of the e Flowery over Kingdom om Cloth limn linings s sJ especially flannel in tn all the light shades shade I J sr will will well be extensively used in to the new fall coats d J a is an apan Dominating Domina ting 10 10 o West Sixth Fifty Street l fr New York Yank Fall a F Fashions H 1 1 J J a r r f. f f rl 0 0 1 1 r rC C r f. f t 1 rI J 1 I 1 t i i i 2 t T S' S o I t. t r r 1 f 44 N F w M r I 14 1 1 i. i I. I 4 0 J I 1 At Right a Much Much Modified Modified 7 I r 1 1 j tr 1 M. M i ti d t r U j Mandarin l Coat of Russet I r. r 1 l. l J r. r r i i I 11 1 1 1 Silk 1 Serge Embroidered in f Y d 1 J io 0 1 j r 1 ii V I J r At Right R g r I I Copper and Inconsistently In t 1 4 1 I 4 o an Adaptation s' s Finished Off with a l of a Japanese f T 1 Harem Skirt Motif lotif Giving J t t I Unusual an U 1 1 Effect of At Left Lef l a Splash of f. f If I I o Trimness 7 Y I t Gay Barbaric 1 l Color the t. t j 4 on S r Simplest Chemise t. t A fit L e ft r lre I Frock of Corded I I f. f t I I I j Tan Silk Just a or I 1 f 1 i o- o y tI t e rI L IJ t I C Mist of vV- vV j i Y i 4 Gray from T 1 Jf t 1 0 1 ail Her Gray GrayHat it I I vI 1 11 and d L H H Hat a t an r or o 1 c I 1 J I yell Veil Vento to 1 J jr r J. J 1 t onn v TI IJ 4 I 1 Short Her r i I Cs T J I f and d. d Cape an I Mtr An n r X f s sy u. u i- i 4 I It O Frock y j sq wh C r rl t J t p l' l h t t. t 1 tl Ilu I U f l 1 11 l I 1 II tl l r r 1 VI V r r III I 1 L i. i 11 1 il 1 t vs 1 i. i I k 1 p I II J ir r t s By Mme Fran Frances es The Famous Creator o oft of Fashions 0 China and Japan whose fluttering TO lanterns tell ten of strange customs and superstitions we are indebted for many delightful styles The accompanying accompany accompany- ing illustrations reveal the vital influence in the tho of the Flowery Kingdom not only lines but also the decorations of the dresses In the centre of the page is an extremely extreme extreme- ly attractive creation Itis It is is developed in a arich arich arich rich shade of navy blue tussah silk whoso whose practical qualities are readily recognized b by the fashionable woman The kimono- kimono like coat shows a pleasing modification of the sleeve Although on the forearm it possesses the width that is usually associated associated associated asso asso- with this oriental garment yet the bulkiness that is sometimes apparent uner under un un- der er the arm is cleverly eliminated t I Hats from the Orient OrientA OrientI I A narrow bind of orange silk outlines the deep cuffs the fronts and bottom of pf the coat Reminiscent of the obi worn b by y Japanese women is the gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous' and gold embroidered sash The chrysanthemum chrysanthemum chrysanthemum chrysan chrysan- is the motif of its ornamentation which reflects once more the influence of these off far lands on the dress of the American i w woman man S t suggests the slinky lines of the kimono for it is cut in a very straight manner It too rejoices in a dash of color for orange binds define its hem as well as asI r I the l little slashes at the sides r r 1 11 1 The hat of black satin also savors of the Orient for the shape is the same as that worn by the coolie who runs a rick rick- shaw There are no fussy trimmings to divert the eye on this model but to accentuate accentuate accentuate accent accent- its feminine ownership it is adorned with a floating veil of emerald green chiffon Particularly youthful is the model that backs this interesting origination A heavy tan corded silk is used for its development development devel devel- along the popular ever-popular chemise lines A gay colored panel is introduced on the front of the dress while the back also reveals a similar insert Modifying I the Mandarin These panels are made of striped silk in which broad bands of red blue and yellow predominate The same bright silk is used for the belt This by the way shows rather a novel treatment for it is made into a roll and stuffed with a sturdy cord and finished with a purple silk tassel The round neck opening is also enlivened enlivened ened with a colorful roll collar of the silk The small hat in modified mandarin style is modelled from royal purple silk Its solitary trimming is a tassel of heavy silk threads that perfectly match the fhe color of the hat C Combining the beautiful colors of the oriental modes and the harem skirt the dress at the extreme right possesses much distinction A lovely russet colored silk serge Berge is chosen for its fashioning Thelong The Thelong Thelong long slip-over slip blouse is really a modification modification modification tion of the Chinese mandarin coat Its straight hem is deeply indented ind at certain intervals A binding of the fabric is cleverly cleverly cleverly clev clev- erly used on the hem and about the sleeves A piece of sheerest white linen makes a dainty front It is finely pleated with the tiniest of pin tucks This same beautiful beautiful beautiful beau beau- material materi l similarly enriched with small tucks is favored for the tiny puffs that seem to lengthen the sleeves Copper embroidery In wonderful shim- shim mery silk floss forms a pleasing border for this vestee It is also apparent on the narrow string belt that is carelessly tied about the waistline Turbans and Flowing Veils r The turban closely set upon the head is made of russet silk Across Across the front are rich embroideries of brown henna scarlet purple and henna An enumeration enumeration tion of these colors may seem to express a strange assortment yet they are so 50 wonderfully wonderfully won won- blended that the embroidered designs designs designs de de- de- de signs are most charming While such modes are exceedingly favored by the stylish woman woman yet occasionally occasionally occa occa- she may long for a truly demure costume that will accentuate the charm of her personality and her beauty This type is pleasingly portrayed in the illustration illustration illustration tion that completes this group An exquisite shade of gray crepe de do dechine dechine chine is the silk chosen for this dress And by the way this is one of the most popular fabrics just now This costume is really a two piece affair for a tiny cape accompanies the frock The former is cut cutin cutIn In an military style with a smart up stand-up collar The straps that hold it in place 11 have ve another function to fulfil They are several several several sev sev- eral yards long and after they are crossed over in front they are drawn to the rear From that point the they are draped about the dress so that its folds are picturesquely disposed Like the cape they are lined with blue blue- gray blue crepe de chine The skirt is ornamented with many self-covered self buttons buttons buttons-a a trimming that is really very decorative The sleeves are Newspaper Service I prophetic of fall modes for they are arc exceedingly exceedingly ex ex- ex long and snug The gray satin hat is a tiny confection but what it lacks in size is more than made up for in the veil This is an origination in gray Chantilly lace whose patterns make a delightful adornment for the hat The veil is really a most important accessory accessory accessory ac ac- ac- ac at the moment of oi writing The day seems to have passed when veils are drawn tightly t to the back of of the neck where they are knotted and pinned Small veils are worn but these are usually short like gossamer-like appendages of Chantilly lace that give a delightful finish to the hat Such veils are generally attached to the hat and are worn more for their beauty than for any virtues they may possess One rather odd veil is made of tulle tuBe and chiffon The tulle tuBe part is designed to cover cover cover cov cov- er the lower yer features of the face for the veil is draped about the small fitting close-fitting hat so that the eyes are uncovered Beneath Beneath Be neath heath this the chiffon is joined and as there are innumerable folds of this filmy material it is used for a scarf Feathered Cuffs and Collars A smart auto veil practically becomes a hood of chiffon which covers the head very closely and is draped about the neck The abbreviated like fringe-like portion that veils only the eyes and nose is edged with tiny beads Some of the loveliest Ch Chantilly veils are made discarded sunshades for old lace is always a valuable asset to any woman who delights in reviving long ago modes In some of the newest wraps the square oriental sleeve is noted Of course a great many wraps are devoid of sleeves the arms com coming ng through slashes or circles e f I 1 H I nI i t L' L T I J 1 I creations In duve duve- Many fany of these beautiful with heavy s silk ilk velvet ar are finished i fringes or gorgeous bands of fur Sometimes Some Som Sometimes in times their collars of fur are continued broad panels down the side of the fronts something rather dif But if you wish always s velvets are ferent for ferent-for for furs on more or r less in vogue you vogue you might select a collar of toque feathers wrap with a high Tassels j. j and have your cuffs culls to match adornment J too are not overlooked in the theo the well as which a as s o of f the e evening o odress wrap dress f frequently reveals the inspiration anon of the Orient Rich embroideries are noted on many many of the smart coats for daytime wear One une have the back bade w of oft newest est ideas is to have of the neti embroidered lavishly em coat t the he or wrap Is open n to toman i This inter interesting adornment If op mo most 1 i the V variations On some of man many embroidery 13 B I Idone fascinating creations creation s the embroidery threads On ow oth others oth- oth done in very fine tinsel wools are arc used brilliant ers feels this u The st street reet dress also to ency is isha tendency ten interesting ence and a most rn ed embroider embroidered sleeves sleeve s ha haVe hae e the long tight this m moa mod ode from wrist to shoulder When dress is I freis frequently fre fre- E is affected the rest of the le left t untrimmed i |