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Show IMierine Talbot's faj Ii Y ARIS, Feb. 13. It's a great won- der the Parlslenne during the Lenten season does not die from indigestion. All other forms of entertaining being tabooed for forty- penitential days, the smartset'a fancy, regardless of consequences, seems to run to restaurant dining La Mode having set the pace all the world that's not along the Riviera is to be seen dining, lunching, "tealng" and even 'breakfasting at the cafes and tea rooms along the Bois de Boulogne "One does motor up such a dlsgustlng-( dlsgustlng-( ly bourgeois appetite, to be sure," re marked a pretty woman the other day In rather apologetic tones. But my , beauty takes exceedingly good' care not to appear In unbecoming motor trappings trap-pings when she goes ajbroad to enjoy her Lenten repast, whose menu does not mortify the gastronomic palate, but merely tickles it with a difference in kind and not In quality. Such charming charm-ing gowns one does see at these fashionable fash-ionable restaurants, reflecting often In a single frock the many lovely tones of purple, mauve and lavender, In others nunllke grays, with chic touches of black and white, and sometimes both, in the same dress.' Fashion's superb disdain of climate inside the house Is a noticeable symptom symp-tom of that autocratic madame's present pres-ent mood, and we are wearing now materials ma-terials never seen outside the ballroom for unceremonious occasions. I spent several frivoloua evenings at the Rltz lately, and ovorvhndv nnnnr- ently seemed gowned in a chiffon frock, , wearing with It a transparent white or black lace hat. The only woman who had a hint of winter In her cos- tume was a chic little baroness dining j there before going on to the opera. whose tiara was beautifully set In a series of Icicles, each point terminating H In a trembling diamond. The Parl- . slennes are certainly nothing If not H original. Sitting at an out of the way table. I H ; spied a friend of mine who looked the US picture of woe. though smart and stun-H stun-H J nlng in a charming creation of black ' i gauze and jet. Upon asking the cause j of her unusual solemnity, she presently ( conllded that it was only the result of a Mil "beauty" doctor's prescription for wrln-ft wrln-ft Ttfes and that she was afraid to relax IH ner features. All the women who con- ! vert their faces Into a meiUal gymna- slum, using their features not wisely, H hut too well, are resorting to these curative "frown plasters;" hence the Immovable aspect one Js apt to see on J the faces of society women. Even Car-H Car-H I lyle, with his Inexhaustible supply of Ml abusive English, would have failed to ! adequately describe the absurdities of the cult of which these silly women are , the victims. From a husband's point of view, a package of "frown plasters" may have very useful and sticky ad- , vantages When Helen or Marjorle be-B be-B comes too expressive over tho necessity j of a new Paris hat it will be a splendid H opportunity for the Imposed on better half to regretfully explain tha?, though funds are rather low for chapeaux. he I will be delighted to present her with a j greater heautlfler a box of "frown Hj )la.Ti.i'rs.'' . Another fad of the moment is the .wearing of monocles by dainty, feml- ninity, who affect the little glass hitherto hith-erto sacred to the sterner sex. But they wear their rueful bit of looking glass with a difference that Is. It Is very small and hangs from the thinnest thin-nest and most expensive little chain, ' 1 often formed of tiny links held together with jewels. Another jewel fad essentially essen-tially Purlslan Is what In the sporting world would be called a cross team pair of earrings, one ear displaying an exquisite ex-quisite white pearl screwed tightly Into the lobe and the other pretty pink receiver re-ceiver adorned with a black specimen of the pearl family. The effect is startling, star-tling, but is considered quite fetching. Modes are in that delightful state when to be fashionable It is only necessary nec-essary to choose something really pretty pret-ty and becoming, and surely, with the wealth of styles and materials, this ought not to be a difficult task. One of (he exclusive shops recently sent out cards for a special exhibition of the advanced summer materials, and the display was fascinating. The general impression gathered from this view was that chine effects, together with large spots and lacy stripes, -are the leaders in design, while the goods themselves them-selves are exquisitely sheer and silky, even in the cottons. Mercerised organdie with a delicate ground of Bhaded pink and art green barred oft in large squares of -white and further adorned with sprays of I pink blossoms Is a charming novelty; also the raye organdies, which have sun ray effects, are . decidedly pretty. French dotted poplin, particularly In ecru, with large red dots. Is a striking material, but cobalt blue embroidery dotted linen bids fair to lead In the van of. hot weather fabrics. Then there in a French pointed chiffon voile half silk and cotton which Is charming. The St. Gall Swisses In all white and with blue and white dots and In all the reddish pink tints will make lovely garden party dresses later on, and last, but by no means least, the boiirettes with chine effects 1 having a narrow trimming border composed of black dots arc stunning. Bulgaria contrib utes a swjss which Is wonderfully dainty dain-ty with Its green and white design in long, loopy patterns. Indeed, every ma-lerlal ma-lerlal seems to be provided with a border, bor-der, which will bring about a change from the universally lace trimmed 1 frock. Flecked tweeds and homespuns In j gray, and brown mlxtur,e3.y1'JLlLJifXjJil smart cloths used In the makeup of the early spring tailor trotting gown. Foi afternoon and other occasions the choice runs to the smoother faced sat-ins sat-ins and chiffon, cloth, wool, poplins and crepe de chine. PRETTY PARISIAN SHIRT WAISTS. " i Many of the linen gowns will be cut in five gores and laid In gathers around the waist. Two circular flounces about ten Inches deep are sewed on this plain skirt. One flounce falls to the bottom of the skirt, and the other Is four inches inch-es shorter. This style is very suitable for stout figures. Tho divinely tall p.exspn. xoaircyjpl in .Victorian floteaj which aro about seven Inchoa deep, cut on the straight and often introduced on the skirt in groups of two headed by a frill and arranged between wide lace Insertion. For waist decoration fashion knowB no law. The chief object Is to give width to the sloping shoulders by means of lace and frills forming a deep yoke which comes out over the full sleeveft. White batiste frocks .will have a great popularity. The skirts will be trimmed to the knees with lace medallions, and the finest batiste embroideries combined In some Instances with a narrow inser-! inser-! Hon of valenclennes lace through which ' ribbon Is threaded. The baby bodices have batiste and lace Inserted yokes outlined with a bertha of lace trimmed batiste. The sleeves reach to the elbow and end In a series of very full ruffles. The plaited skirt Is still to reign supreme su-preme on tailor mades. The newest models show the familiar yoke simulated simulat-ed by the cut Itself rather than an extra ex-tra piece sewed on the skirl. From below be-low this disguised yoke on the hips the plaits aro set In on each gore. . The skirt clears the ground two Inches, which is the approved length for walking walk-ing and morning wear. Boleros and short, tight fitting coats relieved with braid and a little velvet are the prevailing styles for tailor Jackets Jack-ets and, with their broad, drooping shoulder effects, are extremely becoming. becom-ing. We hear from season to season that the separate waist Is doomed to be dropped from fashion's list. The number num-ber of spring models daily to be seen In the shops proves that the time is not yet. A useful and attractive blouse is one of dotted black crepe de chine with surpliccd fronts, yoke outline, sleeve trimming and cuffs of white lace Insertion, Inser-tion, the V shaped empiecement and high standing collar being of "all over" cream lace. White ribbon fagoted together to-gether forms a shoulder trimming in front and a shallow V yoke in the back, t The fullness in. both waist and sleeves t comes from small unstitched plaits. A t: wh.Ue silk blouse having two deep col- t Inrs trimmed xvith turquoise velvet bows s and lace is simple and dainty. Shirr- c Ing plays an important part on the h dressy waists, which almost invariably v aLea.m. Xhz hacJu Ad- attractive, ll method of using bordered material for a shirt waist Is to form bretelles of tho trimming crossed near the throat with a buttoned band of border trimming, which also forms a line down the sleeves. It is not possible at this time of the year to lay down hard and fast rules about millinery, for it generally happens hap-pens that some celebrated mondalne appears ap-pears later In an entirely new shape which Immediately becomes the rage. But for morning wear In the Bois there are two hats, the elongated toque and the round Watteau hat draped with lace or net veils. The rough sailor trimmed with several, sev-eral, shades of harmonizing velvet is the advanced utility spring piece of headgear. CATHERINE TAXiBOT. Fnncy Cairn For Shirt Wnlita. Most of the shirt waists, unless of the mannish type, have dainty little cuffs to match the turnover collar worn at the neck. There is a wide gulf fixed between the luncheon and afternoon waist, with the sleeves in most cases as a determining deter-mining factor. The waist designed for morning wear has a very simple sleeve, while the afternoon blouse has a perfect per-fect balloon of a sleeve. Eoth. however, depend for chic and daintiness upon the cuff and collar. An attractive little collar and cuff set which will give a cachet to a simple waist is made of swiss embroidery and valenclennes lace. The cuffs are four Inches wide and fasten with tiny crochet cro-chet buttons and loops. Another pretty set Is evolved from footing and linen batiste put together with featherstitchlng and finished with ruffles of wide footing at the hand. Sets made of crash or filet net worked In Russian cross stitch are very durable dura-ble and becoming. A feminine wit has dubbed these collars and cuffs the "God Bless Our Home" sets. And they do recall re-call in general makeup the mottoes one used to see hung prominently in homes a decade ago. Tho Cult of tho Violet. The violet, modest as it is, has among its admirers many of the great ones of the earth. The czarina Is so fond of violets that she has fresh supplies of them put Into her rooms dally, and every morning her wardrobes are strewn with them In order that she may always enjoy the sweet perfume of her favorite flower. At Sandrlngham there are huge glass houses devoted entirely to the culture of violets. Violets have their honored place, too, In stage bouquets, and on the last night of Slgnora( Duse'a" recent season the stage was almost covered with them, the admirers of the great actress having hav-ing remembered in time her devotion devo-tion to tho modest little flower. One 3f the most popular songs of the day-lias day-lias violets for its theme, and every-tvhere every-tvhere our ears are greeted with its jpenlng words: Every morn I bring thee violets Which at daybreak I have culled. The Ideal Woman. According to old Greek Ideas of a i erfect woman, her height when, fully ittained should be flvo feet five Inches, ler waist should measure twenty-four nches, the bust, under the arms, thlr- y-four inches: over the arms, forty- i hree Inches. The circumference of the j ipper arm should bo thirteen inches, i he wrists six inches. The thighs hould measure twenty-five inches, the c alves of the leg fourteen inches and a t ialf and the ankles eight inches. The eight of this Ideal figure should be 38 r.ouiTdau v.-. y" t . Xt |
