Show SOME NEW E IUlNGS IN WRAPS I Pretty Victorian Pelerines American Women Learning to I Wear the Shawl I New York Oct 5Chill Novembers surly blast may make field and forest byre but it certainly populates the ponds and rinks and fills the street grape so to spank with very interest i Iag glimpses of the fashionable long cloaks Last Inter and for more than a couple of winters before that wraps below the knees were somewbat chary t overcoats hugging the figure close and dropping their tails to the heel Line upon line these arc copied from the frock coat that adorns the fashionable man of an afternoon with the exception excep-tion of the shaping of the front Over the bust the coat Is cut out in the form of the letter U from this turn back small satin faced revers and then a shower of laCe ruffles or a folded silk kerchief or the charming facade of the gown beneath Is dlsplllred No wnnnth of any Importance Is expected to accrue i from the low falllng tails They are meant to drape soft and gracefully are lined with a thin silk and arc slit up the back to the waist line j FLOUNCED PELERLNES I I There is a sayIng tlmtnoOIje but a French oman can wear a shawl Ir gracefully but undoubted American women are proving their capabilities at shawl wearIng by bravely and becom1 Iii I J ii rJW ingh adorning themselves wIth the I flounced and sloped pelerines in the market If you open one of these well made capes you wlll be apt to find inside In-side a loose silk jacket somewhat like the blouse a Chinaman wears This is of wedded silk sometimes rilld serves to keep the wearer snug and warm i while the flowing exterior lIne of her wrap is not interfered with I I Making allowances for usual excep i Ji a f Cf Cn r r 1 I t 5 O 1 l I i t r a 1 W b y i I X Y f v O I I I t r r 2L7P TRIMMED WITH SLEIGH BELL BUTTONS of public appearance This month promises the beginning of a stately procession of long wraps Long shawl shaped capes tailor made overcoats simple and elaborately decorated redingotes red-ingotes and pretty Victorean ptlerines arc all In line for winters parade An odd and pretty garment is cut rather on the fashion of a priests sautalne and gathered about the middle by a band of fur or a sash of silk Every type of material is used In the make of such long and enveloping garments from t bite satin overlaid with black lace to the heaviest felt cloth piped with fur and fur trimmed braid As to a question of color In such cloaks pay your money and take your choice Is the rule though a preference Is shown for golden brown and a tone called Bismarck gray that has a warm touch of blue in it Very smart indeed are the women who effect smooth cloth I Z r f r P 4J i h k 4 I r 0 n S y r I A SHAWL CAPE tions it is safe to say that the feature of every wrap is its facade Your coat or your cape may be severe in Its simplicity sim-plicity but over the bust all the elaboration elab-oration of your toilet must be concentrated concen-trated Revers in the form of rullles graduating small to the waist line gathered quite full and the edges corded and wired turn back like strange wings j upon the bust to reveal a cataract of I frills and ribbon loops fur tails and ostrich tips faling from chin to hip line and the more fluffy and pouter pigeonlike the vest Is the more satisfying I satis-fying the effect on the wearer and her feminine observers Women who cannot quite trust their appearance tu the tender mercies of around a-round shawl cape have found solace in I the cape that is cut in extremely long points at back and front Three points I is the usual shape two in front and one behind slopedtfrom the level of tthe elbows I el-bows down Sprawling all over the fawn gray black and brown breadths of these capes are wondrous braids edged with tiny > lines of fur and with a finish of gilt gimp beyond the fur Then there Is asmart velvet braid made almost al-most rigid with embroidery of goldthread gold-thread and beads steel or jet NOVELTIES FOR DECEMBER It is desirable to recapitulate at intervals in-tervals the lists of dress goods that menace the dressloing woman with temptation on every hand chiefly because be-cause reinforcements of novelties arc arriving daily and will continue to pour In until December First Item of fresh importance concerns the foulard serge that is beautiful beyond the capacity of any ordinary vocabulary and then come the creped cloths silks warranted and proven uncrushable and finally the spotted goods You may object or openly open-ly I war against spots but you mIght as well try to crush out the sunshine or forbid the Ilower to bl02m Spots arc regnant and have broken forth everywhere every-where SIIICb velvets satins cloths flannels chiffons even bridal veils are spotted Not all spots are round however how-ever to alleviate any danger of monotony monot-ony we have birds eye or Oval spots and pastille spots these last raised from the surface sometimes in the form of tiny cones To say the last word as to color ig to enumerate royal blue cress green and fuchsia red as rivaling one another A perfectly daring and quite unmistakable unmistak-able bricldust red toned with black braidings is triumphantly worn by blonde women but for women of all tints blue still gallantly holds their hearts About four years ago from the obscurity of nay blue arose a whole flock of tender becoming azure tinged tones and to put off blue seems to be Imp < > ssible Cornflower turquoise gentian gen-tian Abbess Russian violet and royal arc some of the blues that made up in cloth silk velvet and flowers a most I attractive sQow wIndow in New York and the women all buzzed bout the corner where a perfectly new and entirely I en-tirely lovely shad named Marie Louise Olue was exhibited StART SKATING COSTU3IES All these gay coPrs of cloth make a florid and not ineffective show on the ponds and in the rinks wliere the whirr of steel on Ice rises on the frosty all A plain skirt ankle long with vivId flannel or velveteen bodice Is just about the most gracefUl and becoming thing a skater can assume Camels hair serge is what the skirt is made of and the most stratllng combinations id dolor prevail until the rinks resem blec4rnival gatherings The biggest and brightest buttons flash on upper as well as nether garments and some of these are huge polished pewter but 1 tons such as are made and worn by Dutch rneh and women on the frozen carnls bf Holland Pretty skating costumes from Paris are resplendent with fur or fancy braid and gay with silver buttons that are in reality tiny bells jingling out fairy music at every motion of the wearer The skirts of such suits are cut close at the hip and somewhat full below the knees enabling the wearer to move with freedom and adding greatly to the sum of grace Turbans of astrakhan broad tall and Persian lamb are what the smart skaters wear These are round capshaped things with a tuft of bright feathers like a shaving brush stuck up in front and held by a pin of Russian silver Every other woman whether her frock is silk or serge has depending from the rear of her basque a species of tall which is bound to excite Interest if not applause It was fully ten years ago that basQues resigned their rear appendages but like lIarys little lambs they are back in fashion everyone every-one with its tail behind it Sometimes the tall is a mere bunch of ribbon ends scarcely larger than the sort of thinS a rabbit wears again they are beetle wing shaped and fall nearly to the knee Coatee habit postillion and swallowtails are the species most frequently fre-quently seen at present and whether they are pretty or not is another matter mat-ter the tailors say they have come to sty Dressmakers give assurances all along ttR line that velvet dress will I command as great popularity as last year A touch or two will bring them Quite up to the mode of the moment and those who are having new and very rich gowns made this year use velvet brightened br large embroidered dots done in a contrasting shade It is In these velvets especially that one sees great use made of the new color known as pigeon blood ruby and a gorgeous gor-geous color it Is to be sure On some of the very new gowns velvet is trimmed with velvet and ornamental buttons large and glittering do shine out now and again on these handsome toilet FASHIONS FOR MATRONS The middleaged woman who is not quite ready to forego ail her claims to beauty by gowning herself permanently In black and yet feels her dignity somewhat above most of the frivolities of such articles of dress as have been enumerated above is finding a good deal of attention given to her needs this season For example a gown advocated ad-vocated at the theatre and calls for a mother of grown daughters is of gray gram moire with a vent of white satin and a green cloth cape relieved by touches of satin The bonnet that went with this suit was made of forgetme not blue velvet in a modified coronet shape with a tuft of pink roses at one side and a little tan of tiny pure white wings In front Three closeset straws of black velvet bebe ribbon formed the bonnet strings for such is the fashion of the moment and the yhole toilet was a safe keynote by which any woman just on the shadow side of 40 could attune her whole wardrobe For house and morning gowns the middleaged woman can wear a skirt of mauve silk having three tiny frills at the hem and with this a blouse of fine white lawn over an under waist of sky blue silk The blouse has little gold studs down the front a lace stock at the neck and roiling cuffs of lace toe to-e any suspicions of relationship to the younger womans shirt I waist Such I is the costume in which a smart Paris i ian matron would receive her morning alters hold committee meetings at her fuse etc Black corded silk and violet velvet lften in careful combination are the materials more frequently used in the making of gowns for brides mothers and almost wholly to the use of the mi1dleaged woman is glen the handsome hand-some applied trimming of chenille and jot of which so much is seen Good taste after playing truant so long is driving ladles with frosting hair from the use of the always inappropriate and i eery unbecoming hat to their rightful monopoly of the small bonnet The little lit-tle coronets made of velvet roses or wreaths of jet wings or raduated rosettes ro-settes of ribbon are without exception lovely and suitable for the matrons who tie them on with lace lappots crossing under the chin groups of narrow nar-row ribbon or folds of velvet scarce a fourth of an inch wide and edged with beads I MARY DEAN |