Show CROWNLESS T NEWEST SUBSTITUTE FOR HAT In Its April issue e a a. special ery number has tho following following- to to say oATS ATS for tho spring spring- aro arc small H piquant scantily trimmed indeed the scantIness of the tho trimmings Is IsDo Isa Fa Do a cause causo of ot despair to the fers ers The milliners however tell one that although but little ornamentation ls' ls used that little Is so rich ann and md of at such h great price that notwithstanding the tho enormous sums for COI which hats soil there Is 15 but little profit In them Former Formerly Formerly For- For merly mer a hat could b be m m do and sold told i tor for sixteen or twenty dollars dolla at a 3 lea lea- profit now a 3 hit hat which In Int t sells for fOIt forty or fifty dollars and In America for tor or sixty or eighty dollars dol- dol lars represents a comparatively small P profit to the makers I fj 1 This Is a discouraging fact especial especial- I when aa as for tor tho the past two Iy ons I hats are the least t conspicuous part of or orthe the Une the costume costume costume-a a mite of at a shape a mere i suggestion of or a brim rolled up at nt oven widths or raised to a moro more pronounced anglo angle at ono one side and ad a no low rounded f crown or no crown at all as in fn the tho hat shown on this page the sensation of or orthe the opening lla day at tho the Auteuil rac races s. s The trimming Is perhaps a no sweeping osprey opre an aigrette or a 0 fantasy os- os rIch tip Up And such Buch fantasies t Ever Every possible contortion of ot a 0 harmless quill tor or feather has been invented In and none nono fare ire are allowed to remain in their natural Worm form The ostrich plumes and stiff aigrettes are arc twisted and bent back buck inverted question marks are arc p pressed Into most mast remarkable curves cur I and ever every conceivable l form of or feather 1 15 Imitated in tullo and ribbons I Th The N New Points Point Somo Some of at tho the smartest straw shapes pes two lon long loops of at broad moire ribbon protruding far tar beyond the tho brIms or narrow moire ribbon Is formed Into flat buckles huckles and wings s so 50 soI I placed as to form pinwheels These tt t tso o are arc especially well vell velli i adapted to tailored hats On man many of at I the tho satin and tulle hats aro arc used long wired loops of malines now a n non- non n trimming An- An icher garnishing fitted to staid hard service Is th the tho small bow of ot faillo ribbon rib rib- bon ben which appears with up- up p- p 4 turned ends on the front of at a straw or tullo tulle hat and with turned down I ends at Its back It looks a n bit silly this stiff bow but its it's chic Wings have havo fluttered Into fashion t once more Two T wings sprout from a aI small hat at an up-and- up down clown angle or one ono wing wing they they tra travel l I tin In pairs stands pairs stands straight str up and tho the thoIs Is Other spreads down so that when posed at at the front of ot the hat tho downward donward wing Ins protects that side of ot the face 1 As to colors hats are In tone one J n h tho L U O L. L U are preferred b by some somo houses I bright blight mulberry American Beauty Del or- or or emerald tones are chosen b by others But one should u use e discretion In In buying tho those for tor except for fOl the southland they the are arc a bit pronounced I An cerise all-cerise purple or green hat however Is permissible even ven In town and In ill stunning with a dark blue or orI I black suit Among tho the subdued shades Shown by the bl big milliners aro chiefly brown f-brown brown tete tote de le old red beige g blue blue lue and black I Flie Characteristic One fundamental charat characteristic of ot the tho new hats upon which all nU the tho houses large and small agree Is suppleness 1 Hats aro are made madl without wire U and mav may practically be fold folded l I I f 5 j I t tj j p pc c 1 i c I i I I 1 I 1 t ti i f J I a t I f I When is a hat not n a hat 7 was tho the riddle propounded at the opening of the I I Auteuil races by a crownless turban scarce more moro than a wreath of brown straw around a n brown coiffure to which it was held by br its own snugness unaided by br pins Viewed from the front and left side the tho hat seemed indeed a ahat hat and nd the placing placing- of the feathers assist assisted cd in the deception and packed flat Thoy They aro therefore ro light nn and convenient When flowers lowers aro used they encircle the crown U usually In a perfectly flat wreath or are aro placed erect creet at the sl side o In a stiff form of flowers vers and leaves or again perhaps a simple roso loso sprout forest |