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Show On the road with C Shirley Smith lHf Along the Inca Trail 1,1 yet before w reach our goal. " Today the trek is short as we go down, down through thick jungle vegetation and arrive in the early afternoon at Winaywana the somehow mysterious ruins that perches 2,600 feet above the Urubamba River. I There are nine of us now - a Canadian, South i African and globe trotting Atmerican having joined our group - and we spend the ' ! afternoon and evening in a cainaraderie that fcsthe ruins and the hike and shared food makes special. Day five finds us waking with the sun to begin the final few kmsjo the.gateway of the sun overlooking Machu Picchu. It rains this morning, and in the jungle humidity we steam beneath our panchos. As if by plan the rain ceases as we reach our goal and leaves in its place billowing white clouds completely obscuring the ruin. We make coffee and sit, very quietly, as the clouds rise to the heavens and expose before us Machu Picchu - the fabled City of the Incas. Jimoo-jcnown in tne yuecnua language as Corihuayrachina (Gold Sifter) is nothing more than a wide spot next to the tracks on the train journey from Cuzco to Machu Picchu, but to many travelers it represents the beginning of an unforgettable adventure The Inca Trail. From as far north as Columbia to present day Chile, the Incas built their empire called Tahuantinsuyu (The Four Corners of the World). From the center of this empire at Cuzco (The Navel of the World) stretched a vast network of military roads. Along more than 16,000 km of the Royal Highway marched countless thousands of Inca troops bent on conquest. These "highways" were built for men on foot and lightly burdened llamas. On the plains and rolling uplands they might be as much as six meters wide; in the mountains, less than a meter. They were paved in thick interlocking blocks of stone, with gradients giving way to steps, tunnels and long zigzag trajectories down vertical faces. Most of these highways were useless to the Spanish invaders, for horses balked at the steps and carts and carriages could never pass and the roads were abandoned to the Indians, mostly to crumble and vanish over the centuries. One such trail followed the gorge of the Urubamba River, headed S.W. up the valley of Cusichaca and eventually to Machu Picchu. This road still exists and it is along a 50 km stretch of this highway that rugged modern day travelers experience a hike unlike any other in the world - a hike with such variety of scenery, so many staggering views, such a mix of jungle and high sierra -a walk that leads you along ancient roadways to one secluded ruin after another and rewards you, finally, with the sight of Machu Picchu spread below you. This is not an easy hike, despite the fact it is spread over five days, for you climb from 8 - 14,000 feet going up and down over four passes. The first two days are perhaps the most difficult, the path being steep, the sun hot and for two of our party, struck down by the "Inca Revenge," the going became next to impossible. But, mid-afternoon of the second day found everyone, finally, at the top of Huarmihua-nusca, Huarmihua-nusca, the English translation - "Dead Woman's Pass - feeling almost too close for comfort. In every direction we were presented with spectacular panoramas, with the 23,000 foot peak of Salcantay to the south and the 19,000 foot peak of La Veronica to the north. Below us lay the Pacamayo river, tumbling from its source high in the mountains, and our campsite for the night. Here we shared our clearing with a Japanese, a few ' Argentinians, a South African and a few much too friendly grazing cows one of whom is now sporting a watch and a man's shirt! The third day brings three ruins and scenery so incredible that you wonder if it is all your imagination. Look closely now as you walk to see the orchids dripping from the foliage that surrounds the path. We camp this night at Puyupatamarca, where we set up our private tent community in the encircling walls of ancient Inca stonework. Running water still courses through hillside fountains and we wash and delight in th icy water. , 7 Dayfour' andpur first view of Machu '.v. v ' Picchu; barely visible in the saddle of two ' ' .( peaks far below us. Rut it will be a fiill day V |