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Show W Interest M Eadp Ffcaders PARIS HAS MANY NEW SKIRTS. Inventive Genius of the Jlodistes Exhausted Ex-hausted Upon the Lower Part of the Gown Two and Three Drop Skirts Exquisite Curved Flounces of All Kinds of Lace Come Ready to be Sewed Upon the Gown. (Correspondence Intermountain Catholic.) Paria 'The first fashion models of the season are always more or less experimental," ex-perimental," sighed a modiste, gazing pensively upon a large square white pasteboard box labeled with the name of a fashionable American woman who lives upon the Avenue des Champ Ely-fieea. Ely-fieea. "I have made my best selection, but you Americans are s governed by your natural tastes and. individual styles that we modistes never feel sure that we are going: to suit you. "Perhaps madame, when she receives the tailor-made dress of biscuit cloth, will say that biscuit i not becoming to her, and that I should have chosen the new greenish gray. If I had selected se-lected gray she might have wanted lilac. She was away at Cannes and I could not communicate with her when I Bhe ordered." The modiste well understood the uncertainty un-certainty of catering to the dressmaking dressmak-ing tastes of American women, for no matter what may be the ruling fashion of the. popular color, la belle Ameri-caine Ameri-caine will forsake all for something which Is becoming to her. That pretty American, Mrs. Austin Lee, who is said to have quarreled with the Countess Castellane over the Count, has tenaciously clung to the bolero through the past two seasons when boleros bo-leros were more or less passe. Her figure, inclined to be too large below the belt, was nicely balanced by the little short jacket with its loose fronts 1 and its tendency to make the bust look full. Now the bolero is "in" again and half of the gowns are made with these little coats. I NEW SKIRTS. But the Princess is also in, and where , there is no bolero you see the exactly j opposite extreme, the long, tight fitting Princess, open in front and fitting j snugly to the back and the hips, j All the inventive genius of the Paris j designer has been put upon the ekirts I which are made up in so many differ- a ent ways that you can scarcely de scribe the fashionable skirt at all. There ia the skirt which is cordtd around the hips, falling full from the cording to the floor. There are skirts j tucked around the hips, yet with so ' little fullness that they are scant skirts i for all. There are skirts laid in the i . tinier box plaits all the way to the ! knees and flaring below the knees; and ekirts with, one big box plait in the middle of the back; and skirts with plaits all the way around. There will always be a liking for the plain gored skirt trimmed with applique, ap-plique, and for the skirt with a ripple around the foot, and the woman who Is selecting a gown can take her j choice of these. But if it be a tailor- j mada gown that she is selecting, let it be one with a satin face, not too heavy, and in any of the shades of green, fawn, biscuit, gTay green, nickle, perle, alumine, lilac or Roman blue. These are the shades of the season. You will think them a little conspicuous, conspicu-ous, perhaps, for the tailored dress, but they are after Dame Fashion's mode, so what do you want? - Two of the most magnificent lace flounces were viewed by your correspondent corre-spondent the other &.y ere they were packed in a box and sent to a stately residence upon the Avenue de Troca-dero, Troca-dero, a few doors from the new home of the Prince of Monaco. One of the flounces was in renaissance lace, ex quisitely selected, and undoubtedly-made undoubtedly-made by hand and to order, for it was shaped to the skirt which it was to adorn. The uper edge of the flounce was ready to be sewed directly upon the skirt; the lower edge was scalloped and finished with a lovely pattern. The whole was shaped In such a manner man-ner that, when applied to the skirt, it would hang as a very full flounce. Another An-other was in Venetian lace, shaped in circular form and fitting the skirt perfectly. per-fectly. "Only Americans can afford these things," said the saleswoman to me, fingering them tenderly as they lay in wonderful folds in their white tissue paper. TAILOR-MADE GOWNS. A tailor-made gown, recently finished for a woman vho travels in the gay but highly respectable set headed by the Prince of Monaco, was of vandyke brown silk faced cloth trimmed with bands of red brown leather which were aplied to the skirt in panels running from the belt nearly to the hem. The pieces of leather beaded and aplied in a quaint design. This was extremely-smart. extremely-smart. A picture hat of red brown straw profusely trimmed with scarlet poppies was made to go with this gown as well as a straw toque of pale blue trimmed with red brown velvet and rhinestone ornaments. In thin gowns the double skirt has the preference over all others. Two skirts, one a foot longer than the other, fall over a foundation skirt of silk or satin. White taffeta makes a very serviceable service-able foundation skirt and the two drop skirts can be worn under the thin out-6ide out-6ide skirt. A summer dress ordered by a lady-in-waiting upon the Duchess of York, and supposed to be for Her Royal Highness herself, has a foundation skirt of white taffeta with the tiniest frill of chiffon around the foot. The skirt is cut very close and is fitted all the way to the knees. A skirt of old-fashioned Cluny lace falls over this foundation skirt; and over this skirt there is another of Cluny lace failing to the knees; both of these skirts are edged with the narowest ruche of whtei chiffon. To avoid so -many skirts the double skirt is made in different ways. One of the swellest dressmaking establishments establish-ments of Paris showed me a gown just built for a member of the Empress i Eugenie's set, the most exclusive coteries co-teries in Paris. The skirt began with a foundation of black taffeta. Over the foundation wag set a flounce of white Renaissance lace as deep as the knees. At the waist was sewed another flounce of the fame lace, the flounce being just long enough to fall over the other and cover the top. This gave all the appearance ap-pearance of two drop skirts over a taffeta foundation. NEW PARASOLS. While this is not a chapter on skirts, it is a fact that the summer skirt occupies oc-cupies such an important place in the j world that no fashion leter is com- plete or half way complete without mention of it. j Yet there are other things, parasols' for nstianee. Have you seen the new parasols made of rose and white striped satin? The handle has a big artificial i rose sticking from the end. There are parasols in purple and white stripes j with bunches of violet? sticking from the knob. And then there are countless count-less paracols covered with r.arow ruch-ings ruch-ings of chiffon, put on one touching. the other so as to cover the parasol. The very newest vagary, however, is the parasol made of the Persian squares which come for fancy bodices. A neat little (seamstress goes from house to house dressing up last summer's sum-mer's parasols. She takes a hopeless black one and covers it with narrow ruchings of white chiffon, -or of black mulle; or she veils it in pink ruffles wnicn ne over it in pretty wavesi when it is raised. Th little genius takes the spots out of. white umbrellas and stripes them with narrow purple satin ribbon and attaches violets to the ferule and to the handle. She takes the lttlie figured fig-ured ones of last year and makes them elegant with small appliques of ice, and in the center of each applique she sews a little rhinestone ornament, paillette pail-lette or sequin. There is much speculation here as to the orders which Mrs. Potter Palmer fOUNG GIRL'S DRESS OF DRAB CHALLIE WITH CORAL COLORED SPRIGS: WHITE EMBROIDERX AND BLACK VELVET RIBBON. will give; for that lady Is a liberal buyer, and when she was here a year ago she left suoh a generous trousseau order for her necie, Miss Julia Dent Grant, now of Cantacuzene, that she will not soon be forgoten. t $r- THE BEAUTY BATH. Physicians declare the daily bath is not essential to health but it is to both beauty and dantiness. The up-to-date woman uses only the finest vegetable soap, to which, for special uses, her accessories ac-cessories to cleanliness are listerine, borax, benzoin, myrrh and almond meal. |