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Show LEAVES' from T-T mckSStiis i mh1 HARRIET MAY WILSO.N.; Roofing and Roof Repair In late autumn, when the pressure of summer work is over and the xains or snows of winter are imminent, immi-nent, the mind of the householder turns automatically to the condition of his roofs. MAKING SMALL REPAIRS If shingles are missing here and there from a shingle droof, new shingles shin-gles may be inserted if they are available. If they are not at hand, pieces of rust-resistant metal may be used, or even, in case of emergency, emer-gency, pieces cut from a tin can. When metal pieces are used for repair re-pair they should be painted on both sides and slipped under the shingles in the upper layer, taking care not to loosen any shingles in the process. proc-ess. If small holes are found in metal roofing they can easily be filled with drops of solder; if larger holes exist they should be repaired by soldering over the hole larger pieces of the same kind of roofing. If soldering tools are lacking, use plugs of elastic roofer's cement for the small holes I and cover the large ones with a piece of canvas (or several thicknesses thick-nesses of cement sacking). Use thick paint for an adhesive to fasten the I canvas or sacking down, and cover also with several thicknesses of paint. Sometimes it is found that a metal roof is riddled with small holes. If it is not feasible to re-roof, paint on a (thick application of bituminous or asbestos coating, such as is often used on roll roofing or composition shingles when they have grown fuzzy from use. For repairing a built-up roof, several sev-eral steps are indicated, as follows: 1. Sweep aside loose gravel or slag for later use; 2. Cut out the various layers of felt and tar coatings, taking care not to rip the coverings; 3. Cut the layers out in steps, so that the bottom layer has the smallest area; 4. Apply the patches so that each succeeding layer will lap over the next lower by one to tws feet. (This will prevent a hump when the patch is completed). com-pleted). 5. Embed each layer in hot tar or asphalt; 6. Pour a generou6 amount of hot tar over the last patch, for embedding the gravel, which is then swept back to place. FOR A NEW ROOF When a new building is under construction, con-struction, or when an old one must be completely re-roofed, the question ques-tion arises of what type of roofing to apply. The answer to this question will depend upon what the owner can afford to spend, the size and type of the building and the shape of the rod. Rigid shingles are very durable. Wood shingles, if of a durable wood and if they are properly laid, are both durable and attractive. They are, moreover, of comparatively comparative-ly low cost and have considerable insulating value. Slates, which make an extremely attractive and very long-lasting roof, may be had in a variety of colors. It must be kept in mind, however, that they are much heavier than wood shingles, weighing from 700 to 900 pounds per square (100 square feet), consequently conse-quently tne frame beneath them must be of stronger construction than for wood shingles. Asbestos shingles, made by compressing com-pressing asbestos filler and Portland cement under great pressure, are very durable and have the added advantage of being fire-resistant. They may be obtained in a wide variety of colors and surface textures. tex-tures. Metal roofings are light in weight and, if their joints are locked or soldered, they may be used on nearly near-ly flat roofs without leaking. They are fire-resistant and, if properly grounded, are lightning-resistant, also. If not properly grounded they may increase risk from lightning. As a general observation, it may be said that the first cost of the roofing is not the only thing to consider: con-sider: Maintenance, repair, and probable length of service should also be considered. The roofs of buildings in a farm group should harmonize in color. If at all possible, some insulating material ma-terial should be used under all roofs. Such insulation renders buildings cooler in summer and in winter conserves con-serves fuel by keeping artificial heat inside. For further information on rootling materals and practices, send five cents to Superintendent of Documents. Washington, D. C, asking for Farmers' Bulletin No. nsi. For information on insulation, send ten cents, asking for Report No. 25, "Insulation "Insula-tion on the Farm." HOME HIDE TANNING A recent government bulletin says that "depending upon the size of the hide, the kind of leather, and the tanner's prices and profits, the charge for tanning a hide with the hair on or making it into leather varies from $1.50 to $4.00 for calfskins, calf-skins, and from 25 to 50 cents a square foot for hides made into harness, har-ness, lace, or glove leather." Since it is so difficult and such a risk, home tanning is advised only for cheap skins and for making the coarser grades of leather. |
