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Show AIM'S FA 5 H I O N 3 fXTESr 5j or FoaW and Silk Linen Gowns ?, ' . . . - -'.-. uA -S.: -. . .... v'--' r . -frv . . -v :- t :.-, '5:.- si - ' - ' 3r- I i v - - . r . . ' ' .' i-k, i ' '! 'W '-'' V-' .v" :; . i? ' 1 r-.v-: . . ..'.;;;--.,s.l .t"v.-.::'.-v' V-"v''--v --..'!-- ;-V--:-:.-3 I - .... . t. : fe; ,--r -jmwmmm r" tf ' 7 ,' ;.V''SSv Blue and White Foulard Gown lT f' '' r' " . V': ,, '.';'' ''v "Phot Copyriicbt by Rcnttlnr ' !r t'-Ct'v'Xv i'Jl'yAvVr'iV-U's':''- Exclunive Copyright NVw York llc-rxld W Mmm&mmmA r ' Blue anl White Foulard Gown Trimmed with Blae Silk Lace . " I'lioto Topyrisbt by IlMitllnfrr" U j EicIukIvc Copyright Nw y0rk lltnU Black and White Foulard Gown Ttoto CopyrlKhtTy RuUln;rr EicIosti Copyntht New York LUnvM . j coindincfl nmtorinls on the colors, ouj it in by lo nionns nil f-ay ta.vk to mutch Lbo kIi.mIo, ko that oftcu it in brttcr to cli&'jso hdiiio nc color that in Dot fo citremcly I fahioii.)lil(? tlnU it enn only b fojinl In ti mntorinl nnd to match it iovolvra hourx of wo.try Ki-arcl). Shepherd Plaid Effects. Slii-phcrd pluiil cfTi-ci!, as are known j tho li;icl; ainl whiif clir-ck cffvct. nn 1, inl-'l. nil the checks of color nn l white. arc us iouilar hs ever, Jcspitc llic fuct , that tln-y nro turncJ out by the thou-i snn-1-4. The sln'phcrJ plui'I strict cos-tiini-s in wool. sers:i. Hilk linen cni) silk arc still bciritj m:ilc at the more expensive J establishments. Hut there is n most won-I won-I derf ul flifTerence between the oriliunry cheap ones aii'l the expensive. Of lat there have been -en lonny Iritiuiw J with, In test color ehem nml it mut be nd-tnlttel nd-tnlttel they bxjk tmart ami novel in linen or ponsee. 5athcre.l on ro plenter kkirts ro now to be Roen in lln foulirJ anl juiiireo Riiwui, with wib' and narrow side plent-inei, plent-inei, nml black and whitt strip-! silk skirt, ftceordion pb-ated. nre most cleverly made o ns to tho-.v either the nil bluck or nil white. The Knthered skirt has not uk yet been enthusiastically reefed, nnd when it prove nucccHbf nl, which means becorninc, it Intn been inot can- full' nd wonderfully denlt with, for when fiihhion j.oi(ively demands long, slender linen und then conimnnda jalh- ereil or pleated skirtj. the dressmaker's life Is a weary one indeed, u only by mont careful fitting nnd cnttinn can pleats nnd gathers be disposed of no that thern ...m . . ... i . . i wear. Toulard, the fisurod fonhird, com j biin-J with plain jon,'ec or njali, is an attractive at-tractive fashion, the foulard used in the same way as when combined with Hrrz in facings and linings mid Kotnctiinca in tho s-oarate waist. Much depends in tlico bands of plain inateriul. This Myle Im new ami is often attractive, but cannot I be generally recommended, for the plain1 bund cuts the figure so unbecomingly.! and there oca in comes the trouble of the exact matching. Hands of white nre thoj "in inn uv loo niucu luineMi 10 ninne the wenrer lotik largo around the hlptc The pliiateil or gathered Hkirt. with its fiilnens heli in around or jnst above the ankles with a ntrni,'ht band or fold, la Mipposcd to help In solving the problem, but it reiiires a master workman or workwoman to obtain tho desired reaulta. Mm zsMmm. pi ifi - ;y k:HK-r te:;,--;-vv. ; 111 ; .;: i f ... ' ';' MHI.'.' -' 'feii ' Blue and White Check Tailor ' v Costume with Bands of Plain V., . 5j -7. . ; :.- - Blue WiVj-V-'- ,...V ; ' srTY- Vhow Copyricbt by Kutlingcr X -V '. V. . '.', " ' AtfiiWv Exclusive Cwn;bt .N-w York H.tjU I ' :H '""W ; '''rW '-? designs, rings of white, lace dcsipos.l s. r'V klripcs uud checks, until to choose uuiong BY A. T. ASHMORE. j IT is comparatively an ensy matter, when tbe weather la cold and dreary 1 to bo self-denying as far as new gowny are concerned, and to be philosophically content with laat year's fashions, but let i the warm days of late spring and sum- j toer weather once begin nnd the woman, who can be happy and cheerful with her i old clothes is a rara avis, nnd is certainly! entitled to the uns'lintcd admiration of her! fellow beings. . To be prepared in ndvunce for nil the , spring and summer entertainments Is n ' happy fate that befalls few individuals 1 For the most enthusiastic lover of clothes, as well nn the moat practical of managers, man-agers, rebels against the amount of time essential In getting together a summer outfit that is up to date in every detail,; not to speak of the money question. For , tb firat spring days spring recording to the calendar if not the reigning temperu-l lure tbo smart street costume Is absolutely abso-lutely necessary to comfort. Then tin-re must ue the smart gown suitable for the antumn receptiou or bridge, nnd these two, with an attractive theatre gown, tire sufficient to get through the two or three weeks before the weather hu settled dowu into a much higher record of temperature, especially if each and every one of these gowns is perfect and there are tvo or three others of tbe winter wardrobe still in fairly good order. To le quite comfortnble there must bf included in the spring outht more than one new street gown, for tbe tailor costume cos-tume that is heavy nnd warm enough lur the coed days of spring is guile out of ihc question iu tho warmer day, which, however, how-ever, are still cool enough to call lor a gown of more weight. But In theae days of resource there are so many different weights of cloth that tho ditllculty can soon be solved. There must be provided the gowns for warm weAther, tbe coat aud hkirt of lightest wool, pongee, gilk, linen nnd, for more formal occasions, crepe de 'hine and satin. These, le It remembered, have alwna the coat to match, even when the powti is iu one piece instead of skirt and waist. Foulard and Voile de Soie. This la to Xe a season of smart thin gowns, foulard and voile de soie, which ba been so often described nnd alluded to that It would seem as though iLs very popularity would write an early dismissal from the ranks of fnshiounble materials. Koulard, too, has been sold in such quantities quan-tities for several weeks a to make the more conservative mluded wonder if It can possibly continue to be desirable, but it is material that possesses rare advantages advan-tages , Jt is delightfully cool and light Iu weight, thcro axe many qualities that cannot bo injures! by rain, it sheds the dust, lends itself to the draped effects, and If made in a tight fitting waist is a becoming material in so far that It flinss to the figure. One of the familiar styles of the season is to combine Jt with another fabric, liberty satin, voilo de soie or aergo, and nLso to male up figured fou. lard with the plain color of the other material. This ell tends to n varK-ty of effect that la attractive and permits of a bit of originality, so that the danger that always esLsu when a fashion is both practical and popular of haung every woman dressed alike is obviated. There Is an unusually large variety in color and design in tbe foulards this season. The white pround with white figure fig-ure and the dark ground with white figure fig-ure are aliko to be fouu.I in what stems like an cndh-M choice. The always popular pop-ular polka dot U omolprcseot and In a Inwst extraordinary rancs of no,l Blue and White Check Tailor Costume with Bands of Plain Blue I'holo (.Vpytisht by It-utllnrt r Exclusive Ccpjriitbt Now York lU-rjh Cray Silk Linen Gownvith Soutache BraFdlng I'holo '"' ricl. I ly K. ni lior nxrlufitr C'cp.vri.-lit ,r York llrrji 1 designs, rings of white, lace desipns, stripes und checks, until to choose uuiong so many require, cool judgment. The bordered foubrds nn exceptionally attractive at-tractive this, year, and the border can be so satisfactorily dealt with that trimmings trim-mings are unnecessary. V.,ii nnd white, color and white, nil with borders, are displayed with an edgi- of darker or plain b!a k as a finish. There are most artlsin? nnd NMtirning shti.Jings of gray sn the Wdered foulards, a well a the blue end white and black und white, that always appear when foulards are irt favor, and this year all the many bhades of red are much in evidence. For practical wear nothing is better than the black ground uiih hite pr.Jka doti, 8d it is extraordinary how this de-sjKU de-sjKU njiya i0 fashion year after year Ihis summer It U combined with plain Mack liberty Mtin must effectiv.lv but there arv just as mauy itifac(ory' gowns turned out that are entire! v of the foulard. For the street and geoeral ii, Tvn. with short skirts and nre thought much smarter for midsummer than the foulard' gow ns intended for niore formal oeca-1 ton. AVhite ground with light figures j will be made up much more elaborately , and trimmed w ith lace and embroidery, j hut this latter style is not ut all ou the, suine order, nnd while It may be the, same fabric it is so differently dialt w ith as to make it seem entirely different. I'ouL-ee, raj. ih aud tuwr re heavier in, weight and are aluierst invariably made' with coal to match. Silk linen Is another material on the same orih-r and is iru-meiisvly iru-meiisvly iopular thiw seabon. It is to Uv fotim in all color and nil shades f col.ir. und. while not clased with' wn -vU. nn. It is clsire.f. wshed as well as .-leaned. There are few who try the experiment of WH-hing the silk lmeu eostuuits, for, as a rule, they nre mad.- up in such in -ire or Ichi elaborate fashiou ihd( cleaning seems the more nat ural pro-esi. There are many new miikls for the coat and skirt costumes, but the simpler dcsigiiM nft. the smartest, and wheU th-re braidiog. just the baiu! around th.. skirt and on the e-olhir, revers and cuffs of the jacket are suUl'i. nt tu give th... smart effect. I'ongee ostumiv are on the same order, nui in fact there i littl? iliffer-nce in the m'xh li for tiny ol the coat and skirt costumes of the sum nier fabrics; (here are long coats and short jackets, but the skirtu are all short. n-h.--e ckstumes aro intende-d for street |