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Show SCICNTiriC SHOPPING By HELEN D. PURDY their innumerable weaves. A well-cut and well-flu ished tailored suit never fails to be in good stylo because of over-plainn..-s3 over-trimming is a greater danger but for tho really important im-portant gown of the wardrobe somo little distinctive touch seems wanted. It may bo a small collar of good lace, somo braiding with a glint of gold threads in it about tho closing (with buttons that correspond), some little tU of elaboration that we shall feel must come off whn tho gown has had its best days and la relegated to everyday every-day U30. It Is these little dltinctlon8 not necessarily Involving much addl-tiona addl-tiona expense, that make a wardrobw complete. REALLY sensible shopping begins In the privacy of one's own apartment days before a purchase pur-chase is made. It may be concisely con-cisely stated n3 knowing what you really want, getting that and nothing eL-e. Indiscriminate, unplanned chopping chop-ping so often allows us to be diverted from actual needs by the allurement of the attractive offering of the moment, mo-ment, that, unlets we have taken an actual inventory of present possibilities and future requirements, and ttarted out with th's fixed idea, the shopping tour is likely to have uns.iti.ifactory results. Every woumn can recognize the wtsdorn of placing a ceitain definite defi-nite limit on a year's or a sea-.on'a drtss allowance, whether ber means bo great or small. Even if the allowance allow-ance is exceedingly liberal, it is a definite defi-nite amount and leads to methodic planning. It is a d-'fir.ito starting point and a most healthy corrective of extravagant tendencies. If wo overspend over-spend a bit on one povn. we know that we must retrench on some other to make up for the indulgence. 'When ono has been so unfortunate as to miss training of this kind, the next best thing is to train oneself; It Is an achievement that brings Us own reward. re-ward. . t We all know women who. without having a remarkablv extensive war'-1" robe, always e-..-ra appropriately gowned. There can be no hard-and-fast rule for all. The woman who lives in a city, and leads an active social life, will naturally nvod 3 different l.st from tho woman who lea's a rather quiet life in a small town, but there aro certain occasional gowns quite s important im-portant for one as the otter, and it is these that must bo dcGnitdy planned. ?uch a wardrobe will not need ro-nev.al ro-nev.al each year; in fart, ticR require but litt!.. aldltlon and alteration altera-tion to keep fedlng up-to-date arid comfortable. First in iu-.portmce ou tho list is tho formal outdoor costume cos-tume for church and ceremonious calling. call-ing. This h a necessity for even tho most persistent stay-at-houic-body. Jt should be a good thrc-e-Plrr(? suit that iJ, skirt j..d jacket of the tame material, and a vralet to correspond-In correspond-In color at least. The dainty white lingerie waist Is too well liked, too pretty and too comfortable to be lelt out of the question, but juit now we are educated to the complete costume Idea, and a white waist with a colored skirt scarcely accords with that idea, except for quite lnforrnal wear; it is the color not, not the during fabric, fa-bric, that protests. In midsummer a thin white wal.it may replace the wain proper of the costume, but it thould be considered a concession. It will be mudi better to maUh the skirt in an inexpensive silk mull and t::.' e it un on sLIrtwalft lines. For winter this salt would be of broadcKtb, d;aO"' or serge for skirt ar.d ja' krt, the waist cf crepe do chine rivsT-sHni'. foulard, chiffon cloth or firn,- s'.'.k ve'.Ilagr. either aVne or combined with tbe doth. For spMng fine, soft woolen suiiing. m which there arc numerous novel weaves each year, lightweight serpe of homespun; and forFummer V.ajah or some other of the high-class shantunrs, or the mohair and wool mixtures in How to Test Fabrics. A knowledge of fabrics and their W'.arir.g qualities is all-Important to tbe shopper. In a Urre city one may yo. in the morning, to some of the large shops and look at goods or get a row samplcn of tbe newer fabrics r consideration and examination. ow fabrics in gooas of all grades are r.omg produced tVery season, and the car. rul shopper should know them. De-ca De-ca lso a woman lives prhapn la a fc-J.i'ii fc-J.i'ii of tbe country remote 'roin the .arre Importing and manufacturing centres is I10 reason why she may not nave the nrwest fabrics if she wants them, but It is abdutely nccsaai for aer to know them by name at b.aii, ' |