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Show t 'lllFARIs fa 5 h i o n 5 pjmw';?f mm jjML MC'XA MEWEST Gowns Made pTmVMjMM W&XMiM ISf w1?h Wider Shi"s m-mii mmH$MS! Vv" ' ''''"' '":'V ' yij'ytv f" ' ' Vr'"- 1 '" " l;--" :;:-.:w Exclusive CopyrlsUt, 1910. York piir il-v-, : fillll A Eiclvr Copyrlmy. .New lorlc :y . -V.i ,. ; , Jetted Net and Satin Gown Mauoa BcboI-DsTiL White Crepe de Chine Gown with Silver Lace 1 ' ; '.. " ; rtioto Copyrieht. by JtontiiDPcr MtiioB Drecoll 'Al - 7yTe fieraM1010' N'CW tk BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. &&:'$ ' . Jtifrfo'&'SSNv of tlip roost expensive order, no yet nx to sliovv its ..oMt nt first Rlunce; t lie em-lroii!cry em-lroii!cry work.J by hand, in tho same color as Ibe rnatorial or in two or tbreo sliudcs of flio s'une the nio.Ht e.xpenslvo of materials; and then the perfection of lino. These are not apparent to everyone, every-one, hut inerilnldy does the harmony of it all attract attention and admiration. Uoth for day and evenin; grvni is thin rule carried onl. and the results arc easily disre rnihlc, to any one who in really educated edu-cated to the standard, in the finished appearance ap-pearance of the evening gowns that are ClvtL ami S.-itln Gouo. now exhihited as modnlM. A year or two u no, or even earlier in the seuson, it may be questioned if the Myles that are now popular would have even ln-en considered. Eccentricity ami exaggeration are now avoided by every woman who merits bc-InK bc-InK considered smartly pwntd, while individuality in-dividuality and di.siiiu'tion are most eaK'Tly smicht for. This in uuo,uestioD-ably uuo,uestioD-ably the reason why wider Blcirts and longer trains for evening aro coiifcidercd so Diucli bmarter. court train, without which the gown enn be absolutely complete In itself. Few women who have passed tho first bloom of youth look well in a hborl skirt in thr house, and even the debutante is prettier in the lnnp. graceful sldrt if the gown is to be worn for anything; but n dance. The all round equal length skirt is not senerolly becoming, lonj; enough to touch everywhere and even to lie on the ground. There Is nothing more awkward to walk in than a bkirt of this order, but Dame Fashion does not regard such minor details when ir-suing Ler commands. com-mands. The lenr J-kirt add to height and slenderness, and the evening gown made loDg is far and away richer in appearance, ap-pearance, as well as more becoming than any other. Variety of Trimmings. There is a great variety in the trimming on skirt.s this winter and unexampled opportunity op-portunity is afforded to exercise individual taste and incidentally to make use of handsome trimming. The family lace flounces can bo utilized to advantage as the skirt sh'.hed at the sido w ill show the flounces on ihc underskirt, or the laee llounce can be used on the materia of the skirt aeross the front. If the jewelled embroidered and sp.mgl.d neu are preferred pre-ferred they can be utilized in the s.wnc manner, or th.-re can be bands of embroidered em-broidered or plain velvet or satin around the lower part of the und.-rskirt or on the Jiem. SiUc, bead or jet fringe Is very I smart mid makes a most nttrnctive finish I across the front of the upper skirt or as' n finish to the tunic. There is no rule asl to the width of the fringe. Whatev.-rJ width looks best may be chosen. The! !kmi1 aLd jot fringe has one undesirable! feature, it is apt to be heavy when of any width, hut then- are so many diQ'er-'i cut varieties to choose from tli.it an -f-j tlie skirts are to be wider, for, with the exception of the picturesque short dancing danc-ing frocks, only becoming to the very young girl, tho exaggeratedly narrow-skirt narrow-skirt is no longer smart. Over the hips there is no fulness whatever, perfection of lit being demanded, and the popular gown Mill follows all loo closely the figure; but there is plenty of width around tbe hem, and often the lower part of the skirt measures as much as the skirt of last J ea r. livening gowns are most attraclMc, ARC skirts to be wider? Is the present exajreerated sty le of skirt fo remain in fashion through the winter? These arc momentous ipiestions that cery womau wants to have decisively answered. an-swered. As it is, there is a most disagreeable disagree-able sense of Insecurity pervading all racks of life, and there arc but a limited Dumber of women who are perfectly secure, se-cure, and consequently serene In mind, justified by the knowledge that they are unartly gowned. It is not beciiuse the narrow skirl makes life and locomotion, particularly the latter, so dilllcult, nor be cause it is so uugraceful and unbecoming, but on nccount of its not having been universally uni-versally accepted ns the only smart model. For the street the short trottcur costume, cos-tume, the narrow, straight skirt, will unquestionably un-questionably remain in fashion for some time, throughout the winter anyway; but, ns has so often been tuid, the skirt that White Mousseline de Soie Gown I'boto CopyriKht, 1V10, by HeultiDcor Excla.sivc CopyrUbU VJlJ, New York llr-ralJ at one side from hem to waist line. The! effect is ilit-idcdly theatrical and some- what startling, and a more conventional taste has niodifiej the origiual design. The satin gown lits to perfection and there is no unnecessary fulness, but it is wid enough around the hem to allow of the wearer taking a long stop. Value of Straight Lines. To gite the appearance of a narrow-skirt narrow-skirt and at the same timo to avoid its being too scant is by no means an easy task and, in truth, demands talent. Straight lines accomplish it, or in great measure aid, trimming works wonders, while if sufficient width from just above the ankles is given the lines are bound to be goo.. In altering a last year's gown with an all too wide skirt and iu i few txx. M f ill Black Cloth. Goao. mm mm pi pi Gr.n clvot Coihiuv. - Embroidered Silk VoIJe Gown I'boto CopyrlRtit, 1'JIO. t,y Jt-iilliut-,r ExeluaivB Cui'.vrlsht. line, SKw loik JtiralJ Ki-l Kox Stuff. fective one can be fouad that is not too heavy. The end and aim of fashion at the' nouient Li apparently to have all drvtmj j 1 kjJlrfuLk(i;d Uluo CiulD tejo ' graceful and becoming, far more so than the short day gowns, and a marked feature fea-ture is the long line that gradually widens loward the hem. White Is extremely fashionable this se-.ison, and the half foraiul dress for theatre, restaurant or small dinner, made in white, is mol charming. Inserted pleats of lace, marquisette mar-quisette or chiffon, plain and embroidered, soften tbe hard line of the material and , carry out one of this season's favorite . fashions, the combining of material.. One 1 of the most extreme models of the winter i is a satin gown wilh an overdress of spangled or beaded net. lie satin f,ts aj too close in princess effect, and then over tjft U druped the tunic, which is slashed making a new one niter this year's models the greatest care uiu.t be ex r cised Lot to have it too uarrow ju--t below be-low ihe hips. A skirt made too narrow never looks well and Is bound to hang badly, while if the proportions are carefully care-fully worked out less material can be ucd aud jet there will be sutllcicut width obtained. Another important question is the length of u,e trjl;n .t0i,t stringent fulcs huve beeu laid down sUliui ithe long skirt was quite out of date, and rtainly the great majority of gowns ;Ljlve until now been mu.le short, cveii 'hose inteu.led for nf ternoon aud evening, hut as tho season advances there ore more and more long skirts to be setn. and there are well founded rumors to the "Sect that wry soon the exaggeratedly long train v-j;i he in favor. One of the I -pular fashions is the train separate from ihe gowu iUelf, ou the order of the VxUa narrow is far smarter than the one that measures less, and wonders are worked by the carefully planned and vqually carefully cut lines. These skirU lire quite wide enough to allow of a fHlrI Ung nep being taken. j In evening dress it is most evident thai |