OCR Text |
Show tTTIN.G A. G I LL g. J OAPoDING -SCHOOL 'fljjk A (250i ME. Hints on the Winter Clothing Necessary for Her Com- I 1 if If &Cxf 1 ''fort and Smartness ft . , 1 ' A I, ll Tpage V MI SSL'S y V 1 separate stitched bolt, or clso the matc-riol matc-riol buns from a narrow pros grain band wiili n stitched llt of tbe material attached at-tached at the top, fastening over about two inches In the back. A high Empire holt is no longer used for cloth skirts. ao I when the stiff belting ir used it is not more tbnn two inches wide and the skirt is generally filled fairly well to the figure. Separate belts of a different material arc (seldom worn. - Kvt-n a young girl must be careful to have her soft satin underskirt well fitted and of just tbe right length for her drew, otherwise the best cut skirt will never bans well. A jn-tticoat should always bo attache to a joke at the top to uvoid wrinkles under the dress. IN fitting oit a girl for a wiuter at boarding school It naturally makes some difference as to whether tbe school is in the country or a large city. For a winter in the country it is the warm ulsters and sweaters and the rough walking suits which must be given first consideration, while in a city school th everyday dress is genertillj somewhat more elaborate and the coat, and skirt costumes cos-tumes smarter in cut nud texture than are required otherwise. Most city hoarding schools now lime n day school run in connection when the boarders anil day pupils meet and have lessons in common. The city child is naturally nat-urally somewhat more smartly gowned than a girl who grows up in the country and the school dress is a trifle more elaborate, elab-orate, therefore, when intended for city wear. Simplicity, however, is the keynote key-note for every sort of frock for n young girl, and it is a mistake to deviate from this rule even for an evening dress. Dresses throughout, rather thnn separate sepa-rate waists and skirts, arc most in vogue for all ages shirt waists there must be of course to be worn when tin; cloth bodice is too heavy, but every skirt must have made with It A bodice to correspond A loose fittiug jumper like wnist with detachable de-tachable collar and cuffs is extremely smart in lightest weight serge. lark blue with a touch of Persian trimming about th voke nnd ton of the cuffs. Willi per- isj 'i " ' ' It is hard to sa Mhn h style of jacket is most in vogue for the schoolgirl, thut which is belted In at the waist line or the model which bangs very nearly straight from the shoulders. While the long coats have lov-t favor altogether, still the very short jackets are to bo o voided. A jacket reaching just to the hips is not an advisable ad-visable Investment for a schoolgirl. She will outgrow it too quickly, for one thing, and for another, a short coat is never o good in winter as one which is long enough to give some little vrarmth below the waist. The medium lencth throe- Laps a belt formed of the same trimming, makes an excellent school dress The waist and skirt are always sepnrate, so that when desired a thin silk or a French flanuel or even a white linen waist coji be norn beneath the jacket There should be only a fine lawn or thin wlk lining in a serge waist, and It Is seldom necessary to uso bones the blouse is intended to be loose and it will be more comfortable for everyday wear if made without a boned nnd fitted liniug. Sleeves and bodice are cut all in one piece, but the material should not bo too loose at tbe sides under the arms, for in so plain a model too much fulness is apt to bo clumsy. 3 -: nil quarter coats are smartest of all at present. pres-ent. While a costume for school wear should bo absolutely simple, it should at the same time be finished beoominglv. The small sailor collars in sill; or velvet on the newest coats are extremely pretty and especially becoming to a young girl's slender figure. With this collar there may be silk cuffs to correspond, and a large silk liow on the plain felt bat completes com-pletes a most effective little costume. To change from the cloth waist a bodice of the same shade of silk, relieved by embroidered em-broidered linen collar and cuffs, will be most useful. TnB skirt, must hung as straight as possible without being too light. The secret of success with the new skirts is while keeping the hues absolutely perpendicular per-pendicular to also keep the skirt from being too Darrow at the ankles. A good model for a rough serge Butt had a double panel or plait point and back, tho sides of the skirt being made of straight pieces of material. While there were no gores to give flare thero was still sufficient material to afford plenty of width in walking The new skirt may be finished at tbe belt In any one of throe ways the high belt, with the material hunj from a piece of stiff ribbon; the skirt finished at tbe waist line, worn with a aro faced with collar and revers of velvet. vel-vet. In some models the back is semi-fitted, semi-fitted, in others a plain box coat Is seen. A few are belted into the figure, but most ore half fitted. For the city, as a rule, the semi-fitted coats are smartest, smart-est, while for the country the Ion? loo.se ulsters are better. Hrown pony conts are worn nowadays even by tiny children, and, indeed, if a girl really snfTers in cold weather all sacrifice should be made to give her a warm fur cont. even if it cannot be of especially good quality. This style of fur coat is not intended for anything but ordinary wear ami should be made large enough to rut on over her suit if need be. There mut. of course, be two hats, and if possible three, provided in the outfit for boording school one hat for her best treet dress, another for ordinary wear, nnd a smaller hat between the two of fur or black velvet that can bo worn with I different frocks. There will not be mnch closet room, jirobably, for her in which to j keep her things, and it will be much easier I if she enn have just a few costumes, hats,' Sec, which will answer all purposes, than if she has a number of gowns, none especially- good, yet all possible to wear. Soft felt or beaver is best for the school hat, trimmed either w ith ribbon or wings. A sailor shapo, the brim turned up slightly all around, Ibe crown rather high but not wide, is tbe best, with a simple ribbon trimming. To wear with a corduroy dress a velvet hat of the exact shade, trimmed only with a largo velvet bow knot, is extremely smart. Velvet nnd silk flowers of different colors alo make attractive trimmings. Sec, and will answer all purposes pur-poses j TWO simple gowns to wear in the cveniDg, with, perhaps, one more elaliorate for special wear, are really all sufficient. Voilo foulard, cashmere or cachemire de soie, crepe de Chine, chiffon cloth nnd voile ninon make tip charmingly charming-ly for a simple draped gown with just a small lace yoke and cuff as trimming. A shaded blue that is light enough for evening even-ing wear, yet not so delicate as to sot easily, or elsesono of the bright shades ol pink, or even red, will be good for tb dress that is to be worn every evening, while there, should always be one whit or cream colored frock. For the lost yeat of school there may be one gown cut out slightly at the throat, not really a low neck, yet possible to wear to a dinner or dance in holiday time. The Dutch neck or collerlcss yoke it correct in all evening dresses for young girls, but is seldom seen in smart dresses Intended for street wear. The flat shoulder shoul-der lioe with full under arm sleeve generally gen-erally In transparent texturo is seen Jn tho gowns for young girls, rs well as Sn llie fashions for older people. Tho belt is round and in normal position. A pretty flannel or crepon wrapper must be provided in the school outfit, and then the simple yet well fitted Tjndcrwear must bo selected. It U important for a girl to realize that tho effect of her entire gown depends to no small extent upon the cut and fit of her undergarments aad that no unnecessary fulness and gather about the waist must be allowed. When all these necessaries have been bought, then all that is left of the allowance can he spent on the accessories tbe embroidered embroi-dered collars and calls, the dainty jabots and frills which so delight the heart of every sane and normal minded school girL dence than the warmer flannel waist1'. The average house is kep so warm lli.il It hns been found most practicable for even young girls to have their blouses and undergarments of about equal texture all 5 ILK waists are certainly being worn .lore than formerly by young girls, and I even in the schoolroom simple blouses jof foulard nnd India silk are more in evi- jiiffi a , wetnl nnd every kind of mixture there is are correct for morning wear, but for other times smooth cloths nnd corduroys I and velvctoc as nre newer. The waists are combinations of cloth and chiffon cloth 'or soft (,11k. with u touch of white at throat nnd wrists. A wide girdle of the same material as (he skirt will give to the dres-s nn effect of a princess model ! and It w ill not be necessary to put any more of the cloth or velvet niton tbe waist. A touch of blight blue or cerise upon the bodice is smart for a grown up costume, but color combining has to be 'carefully worked out so as not to give a .somewhat old effect to the dress. T' HEUE is no kiud of costume which receives the same unceasing wear as a school dress. It is nlmoet necessary nec-essary for a girl to be provided with at least two gowns in thorough order wilhl I which to start the w inter. Tbe "best" ; the ycHr round, the outer garments being henvilv iuterliued nnd wadded. For the I exceptionally cold days the average wnist is sure to be sufficiently wurm. Tbe jackets, however, must have nn extra thickness of i hamois or flannel when the waist Is so very light in weight. Dotted silks are extremely pretty for separate waists, ond softest Liberty silk is also good Crepe dc Chlno is one of the must lasting of all silks, while mescaline mes-caline if of a good quality will stand even the hard wear of n sfhoolroom. Trans-! Trans-! parent eolhirs lire seen on almost all sep-jarate sep-jarate waiu, hut, the i-V.tch collar nnd frill is not looked upon as very good style any longer. Sleeves for the choolroom must be lull length, although In nn afternoon after-noon dress tbree-quarier leDgth sleeves are permissible. Velveteens Htid corduroys ore the m.itP-l trials of the winter without a doubt, andj for a Sunday frock, a gown nud jacket of brow ii or of sapphire blue corduroy is ebiiruiiug for a young girl. This dress may bo fashioned with utmost simplicity; no trimming at all on the skirt, while the cout displays only collar and cuffs of the blue or golden brown satin. Huby red corduroy is nho an exquisite shade and should be worn with jouthful colonug There is plenty of t'ni,? Inter on to wear the more sombre tones. For a coat ond skirt costume for Sunday Sun-day and tho occasional Saturday matinee trr'at smooth cloths of line quality are once again to be worn. Hough goods of all descriptions serge, cheviot, homespun, suit of last winter will perhaps do for 'ordinary wear with some little renovating, renovat-ing, and if this costume is really still good it may be sufficient to provide simply! a pretty, simple gowo of plaid or dark blue, brown or green serge or cheviot, to ho woru beneath tbo always necessary ulster or fur coat. This extra gown will save the coal uud skirt costume tremendously tremen-dously and will uLso make' a pleasant, changti from the continued wearing of sepurnto waists and skirts. i Tho long coats nud ulsters nro extremely extreme-ly smart this antumii. Of rough lextur.f, warm, but not too heavy iu weight, tbeyj |