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Show HADtEY SEES THE SBGHTS OF : CAIRO Has His Watch Stolen While Consoling His Friends on the Theft of Their .Time Pieces Graveyards Possess a Fascination for the Wanderer Saw the Holy Carpet and Got a Scare. ' able skill on another one's ukull. Both began stripping off their jewelry, jewel-ry, a strict rule of the theater being be-ing that "ladles must not tight In coBtumeB belonging to the management." manage-ment." aod were preparing for mutual mu-tual annihilation when friend stopped In and explained to them that they were disturbing the smokers. Stranger Were Tricked. Tpon emerging from tho crowU to the sidewalk, my friends suddenly discovered dis-covered that their watches were missing. miss-ing. Sympathetically, I proudly exhibited ex-hibited my twvHnty-eent timepiece and remonstrated at their folly in taking a real watch Into such a place. The man from California, whose friends would give a email farm to have hl6 Identity disclosed, said he "remembered "re-membered a whlte-turbaned Bhellt with silver rings In bis ears," getting rather close to him. ho we went Uack lor a look 'round We circulated through the crowd for some time, but finally gave it up and went home. Next morning my Australian friend Invested In a dollar-watch and the Callfornian Is still wearing one of bis wife's timepieces. And so It goes, these being only a few of the haps and mishaps that come one's way In Cairo. Respectfully, A. W. HADLEY. P. S. Perhaps I might add a singular sin-gular occurrence In connection with my friends losing their watches. After Af-ter emerging from the theater the second time, I dlscavered that my own "Studebakw," had mysteriously mysterious-ly disappeared durliiR our search Vr suspectK. Seems odd. doesn't ,lt? (I haven't told the gang.) men to charge with their whips and canes. Fought the People Back i Plunging Into the mass and strlk-1 Ing right and left, men, women and children alike, the officers fought their way to the enclousure and then with repeated rushes slowly forced the mob back. It was really exciting. Turbans and red fezeis went spinning about, gowns were lipped and flimsy dresses were torn from black and brown forms, while hero and there a resounding smack across a thinly-clad thinly-clad back would bring an answering yolp of palu, or perhaps a curse If tho victim happened to be uppish about it. Got Out of Sight. Being evidently the only white man wltbiu cannon-shot of the place, and not caring to start anything homicidial homi-cidial In nelfdefcu6C. I ducked Into the holy tent until the Immediate atmosphere at-mosphere had cleared a bit and then quietly hied me to a stone wall about three miles distant where I could watch the proceedings and have elbow room. It may lack dignity, to the stay-at-homes to "climb a tree' on such occasions, but when I find myself my-self in a mob of 40,000 black Mohammedan Moham-medan fanatics and a troop of yelling, black devils In uniform and It's a warm day, and there Isn't a cobble stone er a brick within a mile, etc., It's me for a tall palm somewhere, believe be-lieve me, for a holy tent). Tombs of Cairo. The .various tombs in and about Cairo attract considerable attention and some of them are quite interest- j Ing. "Harris," In "Three Men in a i Boat," could revel in graves headstones head-stones and curious burial spots In this vicinity for tho rest of his natural life and still not do them all The I most Important tombs, this side of th pyramids, are those of the Mamelukes, the Caliphs and tho Khedival family. Mo6t of these are mosquc-tombs and nearly all are In ruins. The group of so-called Caliph tombs He east of the city In the midst of a sandy waste aud around them is clustered clus-tered a native settlement. In fact, iu nearly all of the big ruined structures, struc-tures, homeless Arabs and Egyptians have taken up their abode and to Inspect In-spect the interior of a parttcularly promlslng dome you may have to walk through a "front parlor," picking your wa amoug the chickens, goats, donkeys don-keys and dirty children crying for 'baksheesh, baksheesh." Apparently this Is tho first word learned by an Egyptian infant and they lisp It from their cradles. Cairo, Egypt, Dec. 6, 1009. Editor "Ogden Standard:" It seems useless to attempt In a single letter to give even an outline of what I have seen of "special Interest" In-terest" In Cairo, but I am not "half through" as yet with the sights In this vicinity, it will bo advisable to begin at once. Cairo is even more modern than Alexandria. The streots are broad and fairly well kept, the hotels arc magnificent, English-speaking tourists tour-ists are to be found everywhere and the up-to-date comforts afforded travelers trav-elers are equal to those of almost any European city. Xo one neglects to charge a good round price for all these things, but an ounce or two of very-day common sense will carry one through quite reasonably. Besides, Be-sides, the weather Is so fine, everyone every-one is so good-natured and you're having such a delightful time, that Bomohow an outrageous charge Is more easily paid than fussed over. Cairo' Citadel. Usuallv the first thing to attract a stranger's attention In Cairo is tho Citadel, a great mediaeval fortress overlooking the city, constructed In the 12th century by Salad In and which was later restored by that Oriental Ori-ental N'apolean Mehemet All. It reminds re-minds one of the Acropolis at Athens and contains within Its walls a palace, pal-ace, several mosques, prisons, bar-racks, bar-racks, an arsenal, hospital, etc. It was within the central walled entrance en-trance way that Sultan Mehemet All Accomplished his terrible massacre of the Mameluke Beys In 1811 and one Is shown the "very spot" from whence Cmin Bey made his legendary p from the battlements to escape the slaughter. The thrilling narrative narra-tive Is spoiled by the known fact that i Emin wisely declined the royal invitation invi-tation and thus escaped the tragic J fate of M fellows. Holy Carpet Caravan. I was fortunate enough to be here on the day of the departure of the Holy Carpet Caravan for Mecca the grand fete of tho Eg ptian year particularly par-ticularly interesting this year' owing to the Khedive accompanying the caravan in person. The grent plaza In front of the citadel ci-tadel was lined with soldiers, automobiles auto-mobiles and swell turnouts, while the diverging streets, avenues and alleys In Tery direction as well as the housetops, hillsides and walls were black with native spectators. I nev- j er saw such a packing of humanity In my life until I went out to Abba-elya Abba-elya a few hours later The "carpet" is a sort of embroidered embroid-ered canopy made in the form of a litter, which Is horn by a richly caparisoned ca-parisoned camel at the head of the procession of pilgrims. Expert weavers weav-ers from Mecca consumed more than half a year In making it and the Khedive Is ald to have spent some $10,000 in 1U manufacture. Great Ceremony. Tho ceremony In front of the citadel cita-del 1 cannot describe here, onlv to esy that they Involved the local military mili-tary forces of Egypt and the Eng-IIkIi Eng-IIkIi army of occupation. Including mounted lancers.- infantry, cavalry, mountain, field and gattllng gun batteries, bat-teries, etc., together with thunderous salutes and much music by various bands, one of which was a mounted organization The ceremony ended by the Khedive leading the sacrvd camel around the square In person, alter which the procession of. pilgrims started In a round about way for Abbaslya on the edge of the desert where a halt would be made of 21 hours before the final departure for Arabia. . Thousands Had Gathered. By taking a cab across the city, I thought I would reach the encampment encamp-ment before the crowds arrived. Perhaps Per-haps I escaped a hundred thousand : or so but if I did their absence was I not noticeable In the thousands al ready gathered on the sands of b-basiya. b-basiya. In the center of a vast parade pa-rade ground, kept clear by soldiers, were the holy lent and n score or more of lesser importance. The crowds assembled In every direction resembled a great oriental fair with hero and there entertainers of (..-fereut (..-fereut sorts jugglers, snake-charm era, fortune-teller, gamblers, acrobats, acro-bats, dancers, musicians and vendors nf drinking water, food, sweets and trinkets. ' It was three houra before the "carpet" "car-pet" and pilgrims arrived and a black native soldier had taken me through the lines to the vicinity of the central cen-tral tent where I could sit In a bit of shade. Finally the cavalry band and mounted lancers arrived and then the camel with the ' carpet" or muh-mal muh-mal as it is called. Religious Reverence. A six-foot canvas barrier had been erected in a small circle and the mahmal, having ben lifted fiom the camel's back, was deposited with due ceremony within the enclosure, u tnng guard of toklieis being station-fd station-fd around It. It is difficult to understand or ten realize the religious reverence with which this bit of costly tapestry is regarded by the superstitious natives, to kiss which or bauuie they will defy almost anything or anybody. Hardly had the precious object been dcpoHlW within the barrWr when pandemonium broke loote from every side. One devout mother had crept forward and hid extended her infant, ao that the mite could touch the fabric fa-bric with lis Oncers and the act had (suddenly imbueri Hie spectators with a tonatlf detei ruination to do likewise. like-wise. In an instant the surprised soldiers were oerw helmed and the flood of humanity swept on to the nclo.ure. Those who could not reach the lapestry with their Hps. clawed frantically over the heads of the more fortuuate, and touching the draperies with the hand would then ktos the member repeatedly, repeat-edly, or pass It over the face In devout de-vout ecstacy. The mahmal was really threatened with destruction until tho timely arrival of a detachment of native nat-ive police whose commander, taking lu the situation at once, ordered hlB The Mameluke tombs lie south of the Citadel and arc also in ruins. Very little Is known of them, as Egyptologists Egypt-ologists seem to persistently ignore anything "newer" than of the time ct the Ptolmles' It seems a pity that they are not at least explored by someone. It also seems strange that these old structures, especially the "Tombs of the Caliphs," arc not preserved pre-served In some way against complete ruin as many of them are still the most perfect example of Arabian architecture lu existence. One gentleman gentle-man explained to me that, were these tombs, or mosques, restored, the devout de-vout Mohammedans of tho city would desert the newer strucluics In town and hike out to these older places of worship. No doubt this is partially true. At least It clears tho city somewhat some-what of the charged neglect. Theaters in Cairo. There are some very good theaters In Cairo and some equally bad ones: also a number which you might call "fierce." I saw a remarkably fine performance of Verdi's grand opera "Alda " It . Is an ancient Egyptian story, of course, and fitted In very well with my sojourn here. The stage-settings, np resenting magnlli cent temples and palaces, were the grandest I have ever seen and tho singing was also very good, the company com-pany being an Italian organization. The ballet costumes and' some of those worn by the chorus were often a sad mixture of Twentieth century, It. C . and Twentieth century, A. D.. but altogether It was very good. An odd feature In the construction of the house Is the heavy screens cov- j orlng tho boxes on one side of the 1 theater for the use of Mohammedan I patrons who desire seclusion. All I five balconies are f.o screened that while tho occupants "see out" with ease It Is quite Impossible for ono to "see in." "Beastly silly, isn't it, really," said my English friend, who sat with mo on the "other side." There Was Much Squeaking. I took In a Turkish theater cute night in company with an Australian writer and - a well known California man. The piogruni did not begin until un-til 10:30, the Intervening time being occupied with black coffee, Turkish water-pipes and listening to tho monotonous mon-otonous squealing of two high sal-ailed sal-ailed artists from Constantinople who sal cross logged on a divan, shrouded In black to their eyes, and accompanied accom-panied by an orchestra of tambourines mandolins and funny harps. Her Contortions Were Fine. At last the star of the evening aj peared, Aggula, the most celebrated oriental dauccr of the Turkish empire em-pire Her costume consisted largely of an. abbreviated skirt reaching to her ankles, aud a mass of heavy golden gold-en ornaments. Besides many precious jewels I was told she was wearing some $2,000 worth of solid gold worked work-ed Into her hair and draped about her body, also that she was 30 years of age, alihouKh her subsequent contortion con-tortion belied the assertion. Her "dance" which was really a most remarkable performance, lasted for fully an hour, with brief halts, for a sip of wine, or to Hcht a frosh cigarette, cig-arette, and was varied now and then with balancing a goblet of wine, upside up-side down, on her forehead, with a lighted candle atop, and other curious stunts difficult to describe ou paper. Saw a Fight. ,In passing out of the theater at the close of the "first act," we were attracted by one of the gaudily-decorated plpe-lighlors seizing a chair and bringing It down with consider- |