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Show ff - v nOT the cleverest blouse In the world, worn with tho most artfully art-fully cut skirt, can look quite as well on a stout woman as a one-piece frock. That she must j make up her mind to. The shirtwaist is a garment directly copied from the masculine shirt, and the more boyish a feminine figure, the flatter ln line and less curved in contours, the more will any shirtwaist or any blouse be come It, But a feminine wardrobe without separate waists blouses shirtwaists, whatever you like to call them, la unthinkable. Woman must have shirtwaists for wear some of the time, she cannot be forever in one-piece one-piece costumes, so the essontlal proceeding pro-ceeding is to make the trying shirt-I shirt-I waist as becoming as possible. Great strides have been made in (his direction of late years. The right fabrics a:id the right lines have been put lmo blouses for larxer women. ;inil there has been studv of propor tions as well. All feminine blouses (or shirtwaists) used to bo cut on one model the model of a perfectly formed, not too well developed figure. The only variation was In the matter of size. If one were a perfect thirty-six, thirty-six, or forty two or even forty-four, any blouse of that siro would answer, an-swer, but while there are many, many porfect thirty-sixes and thirty-eights; few Indeed are tho perfect forty-fours! A perfectly fejrmod woman of that size would be a handsome" Amazon. One sees a few such, but not many. Usually the possessor of a forty four figure wears ,the larce sir.c because she has grown stout and nothlnr smaller will answer. And accumulated accumu-lated fat rarely distributes Itself in tho richt places. It pads out the shoulder shoul-der blades and adds unbecoming Inches to the bust measure; It puts cushions under the arms so that they must be carried at a Uttlo angle out from the body and lmost lnvarlably It makes tho wnistllno look too high for the circumference of the figure. Trim lines and fat do not go to-tthcr. to-tthcr. Sometimes an accomplished tailor or mod'ste can achieve the miracle, but the achievement is far beyond tho powers of a ready-made shirtwaist of ordinary type. So if you are stout I beg of you do not go to j ordinary waist-counters and select or-( or-( dlnary blouses or even expensive i blouses In the stereotyped sizes. Go Instead to some shop, or some department depart-ment in a large store where special styles for large figures arc carried These blouses have an entirely different differ-ent cut, and the proportions of the figure that owe its largeness to fat have been carefully considered. Thero is room across the shoulders and bust without that distressing fall-over look at tho top of the armhole which an ordinary for'y-four waist takes on a woman who is merely large-busted and has a rather narrow width of shoulder. Tho collars fit smoothly without, gaping at the sides of the neck, and the sleeves taper as B stout woman's sleeves should taper, from a very roomy armhole to a neat fit at the wrist The average woman who is merely stout not large of frame knows how sleeves of ready-made blouses usually fit. Tho roomy forty-I forty-I four waist that Is big enough to drape I properly across tho bust has sleeves j that are Inches too long and miles too big below the elbow. All these faults are corrected ln the special waists for large figures and 'hough you do pay slightly more for these models, they are well worth the extra cost; for of all things on earth a blouse should have fit nnd I trlmncss when it Is worn by a stout flguro! Never select a blouse that has not I some fullness at tho front of tho j shoulder. This fullness may be added 'n tucks, pleats or gathers so long as tho tucks or pleats aro not stitched all the way down Iho fronts. The i more loosely a blouse seems to hang on tho fiKurc. remember, tho slimmer 'seems that tltrure. A tlBhtly strained shirtwaist, revealing the contour of tho bust, i ;in make oven a slender woman look l little fat. Have your blouse loose enough to drape Itself from the shoulders; and this with a shoulder line that does not droop over the top of tho rurm. Tho armhole should be roomy enough to be comfortablo but should not be too large, for tho blouse ; i . ' laM Chiffon mouses Arc Becoming To Large Figures Bei ;iii- i The Soft-: I m-ss Of The Materia. Hits Blouse.: Of BrowTi Chiffon Has Trimming j I Bands Of .Pieic Buff. I 8? y- Exquisite Ncatn M ' Dainty Workmanship Work-manship Shoul I Distinguish The White Shlrtwalal Worn By Stool Woman. Both Conditions rr Fulfilled Ful-filled By This Blouse or White Crepe do Chine. must not sag at the sides below the arm. but make a straigh. trim line to the belt. The location of the waistline is a i-ery Important point. Most stout women wear their skirt-belts much too high Tailors cut them that way now riut it Is better to have tho top of the ailorcd skirt reshaped a little, giving i longer waistline. Many stout wom-n wom-n on whom the modern elastic-at-the. ialst blouse will not come down far enough, lift the skirt to meet the edge I i of the blouse and fasten the skirt bell J lightly to keep it up. This Is the I worst possible way to wear a blouse j Instead, have the skirt belt made very loose and drop the skirt lower on the IJ figure; then find a blouse that has 1 enough material to extend under the 1 skirt belt. Thero are such bloueJ 1 now; many of them in the tailored M '.--tylos and perhaps manufacturers will j I have the good sense soon to provide 1 more in the dressy styles before lonff. 1: , There is crying need for them and for 3 an elimination of that chopped-off. I elastic run effect in all waists over ' ihe forty size' Material is another important thin? 3 i to consider In blouses for the stoat woman. Soft fabrics are much tin 1 I most becoming, and fabrics that havo I little gloss and no decided pattern- 11 Never, never should a stout womm J I wear plaid silk waists or gingham I waists, or even cross-barred law" I v. .nsts. For her .ire ere per de eV.nc.--. , Georgette crepes, soft tub silks, striped I i dimity and plain batiste or handker- J chief linen with croups of small luc? J to help the effect of long lines. OW of the pictured blouses Is of whit crepe de chine with line tucking n rows of tiny pearl buttons The goo fit, the trim neatness and careful m I Ish of all details, make this a ver. i excellent model. Tho other blouse, I j afternoon wear with the tallord s"'-la s"'-la of dark chiffon with narro straight edge bands of lighter chm 1 and lines of embroidery on Pi' down the front. Hemstitching aaoi its touch of daintiness also, and V shaped fold of material ending a tassol at the front Is a hccomir' detail for a stout figure. The sio woman should not wear too elabor m , or too dccolette a brassiere unoc m her chiffon blouse; but a whole limns of very thin silk or chiffon. "d un" I this a well fitting brassiere that nol I tho figure trimly. J Always wear gloves for work In th garden. Bo sure and don gloves before . using Pair of lawn-clipping carso the stout selasers you keen for cutttfj I back plant; or a blister hard to cui mav appear on your thumb. Thev kc P . grime from hands and .hyer .alia BMM .,nd protect Ihe back of the hand frim Wmm freck And they pre-.-nr ,,o b-" J I scratches from thorns and twigs. |