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Show co WEW CORSET FflSHIOWS FOR SUTU1 For the past few seasons the existence exist-ence of the waistline has been vigorously vigor-ously suppressed- It led a life of en-tiire en-tiire negaton and became an honorary title for anything between the bust and the hips as a whlstline it did not exist. It was not only let out as much as possible, but the flesh from the hips and the abdomen was so forced upward by the long-skirted corset that the waistline was really enlarged. One achieved thereby an optical delusion of slenderness, for the lines of the figure became absolutely straight. This autumn the new fashions are closer-fitting. Coats and bodices curve in to the figure at the waistline to give a picturesque contrast to the flare and flow of the wide skirts. The new lines are not tight-fitting. They do not confine or compress the figure. They simply fit it from closely, bringing bring-ing out its curves and modeling it in a way that seems wonderfully attractive attrac-tive after the rather shapeless lines of (he past few years. The new fashions mean a new silhouette. sil-houette. With the wide skirts there is no longer any necessity for submitting sub-mitting to the discomfort of the very long corset. With the extremely narrow nar-row dresses it was imeprative that the flesh of the thigh and leg should be held in as much as possible, and the lower edge cf a short corset would have made itself at once 'apparent. Now, however, the full skirts do not touch the figure, the line of th.e leg is hidden, and there is no longer any need for the long corset. Under narrow dresses the silhouette was kept as straight as possible. Therefore the large waist. The new a straight, enlarged waistF?iand nigd drsses are wide at the base, and with a straight, enlarged waiBt should lose muoh of their effectiveness. Some dressmakers even go to the extreme of wiring the skirt at the hip to exaggerate exagger-ate its width and to make the waist look smaller. With the closer-fitting coats and bodices, the debutante slouch has utterly ut-terly disappeared. The bust is no longer allowed to drop as in the brief ,11 1 11 1 1 ni TTTr-rr"l season of the topless corset. The figure fig-ure is now held erect, well-poised, with the curve of the bust Indicated under the bpdice-Hke fitting of the dress. So the new fashions have brought in a new corset. In the latter the bust is slightly higher. Four or five inches above the waistline Ib considered ,a good average height. At this At this height the figure is supported In its natural position. It is neither pushed up out of place, nor allowed to drop below Its normal position. Illustration Illus-tration A shows the new bustline perfectly. per-fectly. The corset Just touches the figure. There is sufficient fulness at the top of the corset, bo that when a woman Ib seated the bust is not forced upward. Compare the normal bustline of Illustration A with the topless corset cor-set of Illustration B. The latter was very successful for young girls and women with extremely slight, undeveloped undevel-oped figures, but for the average woman wo-man the moderately high-bust corset is much more desirable. The three illustrations also give you a comparative picture, of the npw short-skirted corset. In Illustration B you have the very long corset of last year. Illustration 'C was called the long-hipped sofset in its day, but it seems short beside what we call a short-hipped corset todav (Illustration A). The now corsets are rather more firmly boned than they were last year. The very light boning of last year was admirable for the slight 'figure, but did not glveripugh support to the woman of average, proportions. The new boning bon-ing Is very well arranged, leaving the hip open and doing away with, the old discomfort of a bone pressing on the hip. Corset materials have not changed very much in, a season. Batiste and coutille are the most popular, brocades the loveliest but the. most costly. Coutille Cou-tille is the heaviest and stronger material ma-terial but also the least flexible. Brocade Bro-cade is the most supple, but it Is expensive ex-pensive and not as practical as batiste or coutille. Batiste is very satisfactory, satisfac-tory, for it is lighter and more flox'ible than coutille and though less supple than brocade it is also stronger. You can get a very good corset from throe to five dollars, and It is a poor economy econ-omy to pay lesB, for though the shape Is the Bame In the cheaper grades, the materials are not as supple and do not wear as well. One can pay up to thirty-five and fifty dollars for corsets In fine silk brocades, trimmed equlsltely with lace, ribbon and handwork. hand-work. More whitq, corsets are sold than any other color, but pale pink, blue, yellow and flesh color are very popular In the brocades. Flesh color is also used in batiste. In buying a corset, get a size no more than three inches smaller than your waist measure. If your waist is twenty-five inches, you should buy a twenty-two-inch corset. When the corset is on the figure the backs should bo an even distance apart from top to bottom, never closer at the bottom bot-tom than at the top. If they are, they are not the right model for your fig-, ure. If you buy a three or five dol- I l ..... 1 . . 1 ,1 U It ir!n1 nn iar uursei, juu snuuiu iuhc n. tutu by your saleswoman to bo sure that you have the right style corset This is called "fitting", a corset and is usually usu-ally done free of charge for corsets of this price. The saleswoman will also show you how to put on and take off the corset corrsetly. In putting it on, the laces should alawys be .loosened so that the backs are about six Inches apart. Fasten Fast-en the corset and the gartors, taking care that the garters fasten In a straight line from the corset to the stocking. When you fasten the back garter you will 'find It easier to do If you put your foot upon a chair back of you, bringing the stocking up as close as possible to the garter and saving a strain on both. Draw the figure up in the corset to where it fits easily ami begin to lace the corset at the hip or waistline. With the new corsets It is perhaps better to begin at the waistline. waist-line. Draw the corsets in until the backs are two or three Inches apart at tho waistline and tie the strings. Draw the backs evenly together until they are two or three inches apart, Bllpplng- your finger under the crossing cross-ing of the laces. Fasten the strings at the waist and hip and slip th eonds under the laces so that they will not show through your dress. When you take your corsets off, unfasten un-fasten the laces and let the backs separate sep-arate so that you can take off the corsets cor-sets without straining them. If you put your corsets on and off without unlacing them, you would soon stretch them bo that they would lose their shape. |