Show iIII II t y I f A f 0 o I f Ill I r- r rr rt r 1 M t fV b j 7 0 Q ati q SAllY j 5 i K- K Kj j DT I a 4 fi 1 I r 4 H r p I Ir r rn a i I w I I h I n D i 54 S a yd d rr V N J Y 1 I A border and deep cuffs cuRs of henna and brown stripe afford a striking contrast to the plain tart tan ta top of this smart straight-line straight street coat The graceful collar is beaver HE liE three outstanding features of THE T the new fashions are arc the bloused bodice the absence of o the match match- matching matching ing ensemble and the revival of black blackfor blackfor blackfor for both street and afternoon wear Of almost equal importance is the note of sophistication apparent throughout the mode mode-a a suggestion of feminine ele- ele elegance ele elegance gance due to gracious lines sur soft faced materials and a wealth of decora decora- decorative decorative decorative tive detail The most noticeable result of this In- In Insistence Insistence In Insistence on f more elaborate effects isa is a collection of exceptionally fabrics both silk and wooL Curiously enough the most moat arresting of the new designs ore are to be found among amoni the woolen mixtures Such houses as and Bianchini are offering woolens amazingly beautiful In design and of a heretofore unknown suppleness Most of these are of the kasha family as the soft surface of this type of mate mate- material material material rial js is s best suited to the new modes The most interesting of these new weaves are the kashas interwoven with metal threads Designs range all the way from indistinct shaded effects to bold modernist patterns with special em- em emphasis emphasis em emphasis on checked and s striped i For morning wear in town for motor motor- motoring motoring motoring ing and for sports semi use the favored fabrics are tweed fine fina cheviot velours and the novelty woolen weaves For more formal occasions broadcloth th is the accepted material materia for coats and ensembles ensembles e- e bles After this come the suede finish fabrics and a number of new kasha weaves For the hc afternoon frock velvet Ismore Ismore Is Smore more talked of than anything anything else In addition In-addition addition to the plain velvets there ba b Is a quantity of figured checked velvets velvets striped and plaid motifs being the most popular Silk and wool weaves arc are much much nuch yI t used ere crepe p e is again a favorite ns as asis asis is also heavy moire the lat lat lat- ue e J 1 m motifs 0 tl f s of y chartreuse faille trimmed with chain stitching in contrast contrast- contrasting contrasting con ing colors trim the yoke and sleeves of this navy blue twill day frock shown on right The edges of both peplum and skirt are scalloped ter beautifully soft and available in a wide range of lov lovely ly colors 1 The evening fabrics are even more bewildering Here again velvet elvet is em- em emphasized em emphasized as well as cut velvets on gauze and chiffon grounds Needless to say these fabrics are beautifully supple and a d unbelievably light in weight Brocades in large striking designs area are i strong feature of the evening mode while metal lames in plain and patterned weaves bid fair to equal their popularity of last season Crepe satins have a prominent place together with heavy moire Boldly patterned fabrics and a variety of Interesting trimmings characterize the the new new day modes shown to-day to Chief among these are arc a black and white hite printed velvet anda and a II novelty woolen in tan henna and brown stripe the latter used for a smart street coat The new coats are notable for tor their straight slender lines S1 Sports orts and top topcoats topcoats topcoats coats feature a silhouette thu narrow shoulder line and tight sleeves accentuating accentuating the slim contour The more formal type of afternoon wrap is a bit more gracious in line but here again is isa isa isa a strong contrast to the flared models of last lat season In place of a fluttering lower i sectie many of the new coats show a widening of the lines ab above ve the hips due to either cither a II softly bloused por por- portion por- por portion portion tion or wide wido Dolman sleeves The most most conspicuous among the new coats is a II model Q of black broad broad- broadcloth broadcloth cloth doth It has a wraparound wrap around closing dosing and ami anda amia a collar made of two skins of black fox Other coats by this designer are made with a wide collar that ripples in jabot effect down the front while still others are arc distinguished by cape backs the cape sections considerably longer than those of last lat year I OH 7 h 3 f Z y S j t n Smart and extremely r youthful in line witha with a decorative border and along along a long fur collar the street coat coat photographed today is typical of the autumn street mode Here is apparent the narrow lines fitted shoulders and and long collar characteristic of the tho tailored street wraps This delightful coat is made of a novelty woolen fabric witha with a soft suede suede- suede like like surface The upper portion and half of tho the sleeves arc are plain tan this mate mate- material material rial providing a II smart contrast to the border and d deep ep cuffs in brown and henna stripes stripes- The long collar with its graceful surplice closing is beaver a fur furin furin furin in high favor with the mode just now v The smartness ofa of a silhouette silhouette ette is readily apparent in a tailored wrap of this type Not a curve of any kind breaks the youthful narrow con con- contour contour tour The wrap wrap-aroun wrap around closing dosing the fitted shoulder line and the tight sleeves contribute further to the effect of trim and tailored slimness The mode is equally versatile In the matter of color The outstanding me- me medium me medium for street wear is black After this come the brown tones with special emphasis on the combination of brown and light tan The ruby and wine shades are favored by many designers notably Chanel Chanel who has a rich deep red named after her Navy blue blue once regarded as aJ suitable only for tor spring is another another fa- fa favorite fa favorite Green appears but seldom and then in the almond tones Blue has a prominent place in the evening mode mode-a mode a bright marine blue and the time old-time bluet A light greenish blue is also featured and occasionally a arich arich arich rich sapphire tone lone Flesh and salmon pink are next in f favor vor together with the whole range of mauve and magenta l u im e or m JoA Jo A s This smart costume of black and white printed velvet features a bolero bodice and a striking trimming of white faille ornamented with of black patent p tent leather tones And finally gold and silver will have an even greater vogue than last season That most striking com combination ina- ina lna black lion tion black and white appears white day today day in a smart street frock of checked velvet This is a piece aone-piece piece one model cut but bu cut in bolero effect in front to give the effect of an Eton jacket The short skirt is plain and straight until It reaches the center front Hero Here it breaks into a godet which falls from an plaque of white faille decorated with black patent latent leather The bodice section of this interesting costume is characterized by great elaboration elaboration ration There i is a vest of white faille ornamented with black patent leather motifs which in turn are embellished with bright green and red beads Deep cuffs of white faille are trimmed in this manner and and white whito faille also edges the narrow scarf ends t The hat accompanying this outfit is isa isa isa a black velvet model with a brim that turns back in front and flares slightly on one side to show its scalloped edge The Tho crown is high and creased at irregular intervals rL Ia i ia a w r t In strong contrast to this very decora- decora decorative decorative tive outfit is the day frock shown day to-day a simple and youthful dress of navy blue cylonia This Is a two piece model featuring an interesting pleated skirt I P II I 1 Bands of printed gazelle outlined with black and gold metal ribbon trim the border and sleeves of this wood brown kasha coat The matching straight-line straight frock has hasa hasa a narrow snakeskin belt and an unusually decorative trimming The skirt has a pleated godet directly in front and rand the added interest of a scalloped scalloped scalloped loped edge The bottom of the circular peplum on the bodice is also scalloped t The most arresting feature of the dress however is the ornament on the bodice and sleeves This consists of scalloped motifs of chartreuse faille trimmed d with delicate chain stitch stitching ing in a II number of pastel the colors colors whole forming an engaging contrast to the dark blue background A small hat of black felt finished nihed with a II simple grosgrain ribbon plaque completes a chic and very wearable little outfit A striking use of fur fur combined with narrow metal braid is a feature of the ensemble costume photographed day to-day to Here both the one piece one piece frock and line straight line coat are of wood brown kasha kasha-an an excellent material if if one l A I- I sires II a practical fabric that is long fong wear wear- wearing wearing ing warm and at the same time light in weight In this instance it Is addition addition- additionally additionally ally interesting as a contrast to the fur trimming printed printed gazelle in brown and yellow stripes Strips of this fur sepa sepa- separated sepa- sepa separated separated rated by narrow bands of gold and black braid border the tho coat and trim the sleeves forming deep cuffs th ex- ex extend ex extend tend above the elbow Because of this decorative trimming I have kept to a straight-line straight silhouette in both coat and dress The frock has hasa hasa a graceful skirt finished with three box pleats in front two rows of red and goJ goi m buttons on op the bodice and a narrow belt mm of brown snakeskin m The majority of the new fur coats stress the same straight effects Those Intended for sports semi-sports wear arc char char- characterized characterized by a tailored simplicity 4 |