Show il Wide WIjk kir i iBy ts a d 1880 Ruffles 1 for r the Evening ing By SARA MARSHALL COOK J 1 h II 19 r J i r 1 k t J JI I F I r c fj 4 1 1 J 1 1 L f yA yAr U let r II 1 ji 1 11 91 t j li t- t o to t IW tl N 4 n ny Y e y t f fv v r J Yr l r v j J f l f fi v t f al i pl 1 f n r 4 p Ih 1 x 1 p- p pt t i t 0 Ib 1 ref ir f tit t It I J r I j il fin 1 A r rr l 1 a r i p rp I r l It it Rk 1 J N l tt r rv I I I I I I fI v n y t tR T jr 1 t i f ti f fh t tf r J r f dF Jf A R r i I r h I i t tg t t 1 fl flIn In i I It t Ps r x rr r t g gr r t 24 r ry N 11 f YI j A s t Il gy zt fir 1 It f f t q S SI 11 fl J t d fl 4 W I S I r vi I In 1 t 1 1 1 i tJ rn r i I I 1 lr lr U r d s n w i f jj F yE 5 rt t l i t I J J 7 T h N S N y a ti r lf fl l lr x w rf 1 W r yV V r tW l J 1 l ld s sF F d r I 1 q L qt t Jf r y rr a s i F J v vI IW I y r iw 4 ax WV ty gt f rik k kAt r rv v z s At d 2 24 I 1 I 4 V rI r ID a ad d fy a I r rID 1 9 ri i k r 1 i 1 h 11 v Ii I ate Sy I t r iii 1 1 fA j a Ur r y II vt a r 1 1 1 1 I Y Yr I r 1 f K I li 1 w Y jf k ld 4 I t i hf J J dt f i a vYV V l lw 4 Ir n d i 1 iJ J f t t II l I vY r w J t r 1 1 I f 1 t Y to hi hii i S 'S 11 I I I l S J 1 J 11 J t I l J W d x rl I N 4 1 3 f 11 1 t J M MI 71 iJ y i k sf f tu J 5 i t t 4 f jU at r j jr jl 6 U r J l era i c 1 tt eI r j wrap Cope from i II Jr J t r ri p tLc tle effect of a g c i U rd gole golc d b m In blac black blacky I y t i re 7 r r unit I en o r N li ar f IJ II JI r 1 I 5 L t th h c- c cc iJ c t 4 d r rt rr t r f fe Note I arc of Italian Renaissance Merges With Echo of g Fifties 0 Gorgeous Silks and Metals Vie Vic With Velvets Cold Velvets Gold Moire Velvet aNew a New l Fabric t OWNS S fer the c rl c ra ir eve G been bce mast affected by the iro idress in dress and the simple skit narrow narrow ted tedd d cl dress ress es little litts consideration consideration tron tion from the Parisian couturiers I and there o rs i a veritable veritable reign of jew jew- jewels je jewels els on ets which bich are by far the Ids f of all materials for c ese ese- ning There is a pew anew gold i rore ore ye- ye I pt t which is 15 sometimes printed with bright flo flowers ers r Jr J Jt Jr r t f c ca a Sit J Jei Ji i i e rL y r 1 I 1 I r a rig f j r U It 1 t tX X i I II 4 I 1 r h 11 r 1 r r f v T-rr T f of pale r rose Ole cre crepe e the 5 dirl l IT I formed 0 eighteen e ruffles The girdle is of Jf roses rosc J und and foliage f folla olla e T ening apparel is characterised by either more mOle voluminous folds of ma- ma materials ma materials or b by tissues bril bril- brilliant bril- bril brilliant brilliant in coloring and richly embroidered ered ned Fur Is I i also alro extensively used The 1880 silhouette which was oas in- in introduced in m introduced I in February i is sponsored i b by some onie of the leading hou houses CS aswell as as ell ps the wide skirted bouffant models which characterized the th famous Op Op- Op r it r rY t a s el T t t tt i t a at t tr t f r 1 r V n x s sr r r t ti r r rr y r lam Y YG YI L I 77 G I r r 2 rk Cal ol model of yellow and net trimmed n with ith garlands garland of et roses I Ieta eta cia Ball of last June where extravagant gant and fantastic eo costumes I of the I Louis XV were cre the domi domi- dominating dour factor I 1 The wide skirted dresses as show s shon n by Callot arc arO very extreme e The are arc the most fantastic types that hae been shown during duing severs several seasons seasons sea sons in which this feature ha has beer more or less in vogue One car cai F I v If f wl I i Alice Bernard 3 wide strafed dress of 0 pin pint muslin trimmed with pin marabou The satin alin bodice is held in place by sus- sus suspenders penders of 0 brilliants hardly imagine th that t Callot will be beable be beable bable able to persuade her private custom custom- customers customers customers ers to wear these enormous skirts Callot's Loveliest Model Made of Taffeta and Net AT Al AT THE right of the group of two at the bottom of to-day's to page IS illustrated one of Callot's loveliest skirted w skirted rde-skirted models It is developed from irom yellow taffeta and net an and trimmed with garlands of Juillet Ju let roses those lovely blossoms that are arc both pink and yellow growing naturally natu natu- naturally rally in in France but which look ex- ex extremely ex extremely artificial because of theIr extraordinary color Some of the evening dresses shown by Callot Canot are made up of series o oo of tabs or rants panels of embroideries each independent pendent of the other Many of o these thes embroidered panels have club club- shaped ends showing Persian or Chi Chi- Chi Chi- Chinese Chinese Chinese nese motifs The colorings col also are from the Orient The Persian flower design tether lather than the Cashmere pat pat- patterns patterns patterns terns lire are used The Chinese include many landscape as well hell as liS lacquer desIgns Often the dress is Bred erN all over in a Chinese landscape deaigh showing pagodas and bridges bridge and exquisitely wrought little figures ot of Chinese Chinel personages Whole Wh le p processions 6 of these theae tb e bill bril- garbed little figures wander all over the new dresses drewes dres es Since net Vion-net Vlon- Vlon net started the vogue for animal designs de- de designs signs and jungle jangle cene other dressmakers dress dress- dressmakers dressmakers makers makers have followed with ballet dancers deneen Chinese mandarins East In- In Indian Indian Indian dian moguls and Persian patriots patriota Some ot of them them have resorted to the tb fables of sop sop others other have han taken m mythological figures and one need not be astonished in the near future to see Fra Fra Angelica Angelka borders border ox on Or molt mo t tany any kind of new new dress drI Among the picture types in dresses shown by there are two dis- dis distinct distinct distinct styles One is typical of of the Italian n Renaissance of a as early R a date u a UK the thirteenth century hUe chile rr o C z yr I E Evening ening dress from Philippe ei d Caston It Is IJ developed r from mauve taffeta metal ribbon and wisteria blossoms The flounces are in four tones of 0 mauve and the garlands in three the other is the wide skirt of the th 18 1860 60 80 period An exquisite model m model del of the former forme type called Beatrice is developer developed in blue nh velvet et It IS 13 just such a adress i idress dress as one sees pictured on Dantes Dante's Dante Beloved Beloyed By way of tabulating color right here one might say that thi Beatrice blue is a marked marl feature In ii i Lanvin's line Ime It is a a lovely new nev shade something like Nattier gather and anc yet not exactly like this shade It is ismore is ismore imore more like the blue backgrounds one ant SEes in early Italian paintings A A sImilar tone has been called both boil Virgin and Madonna blue Not only IS t this 1 us new t tone one seen In in dresses but Lanvin uses it iter ery er ver freely in tailored suits A dress reminiscent of the 1850 period is developed from black velvet and trimmed with box of whIte tulle outlining big open cross cross- crosswIse crossWise cross v wIse slashes which reveal a II petticoat of silver cloth With this exquisite dress is worn n a snood or fillet of of flowers which entirely covers coveri a achl s chignon on or knot Another charming dress is of white satin with a full skirt touching the floor and having ing a II bodice with long fitting tight fitting sleeves With this model mode is e also worn warn a snood of open mesh 8 silver ver and rhinestones Ln Lace Ruffles Suggest The 1880 Bustle Style HALLEE is showing JEANNE some very interesting interpretations interpretations interpretations of the 1880 silhouette particularly particularly particularly for evening TheM dresses are very narrow Barrow and draped slightly B at atthe atthe the hipa hips They have ruffles of lace down the center back the fullness of which i is concentrated to suggest a bustle She is also showing many manlong long tunica tunics with flaring circular skirts heavily embroidered On II a afew afew few of her models she uses the full side movement with hip panniers and panels lI floating to the bottom of the the skirt Philippe et Gaston are showing a great many skirted full-skirted evening dresses for young oung girls T Tie The e sketch at the upper right of the page shows a s lovel lovely model developed in mauve f 1 taffeta metal ribbon and wistaria blossoms the latter be being Dg made of metal cloth shot with color This dress is a study in harmony of tones The four ribbon bands which border the flounces of the skirt are arc in four different shades of maitre metal rib rib- ribbon rib ribbon bon and the three garlands of wistaria starla if tana blossoms are aro in three dif dif- different dif different ferent shades of mauve The taffeta taft eta remains in the one tone of mauve Another model from this house is Illustrated at the lower lo left of the sketch It is of pale paIe rose Georgette crepe with eighteen ruffles formin forming the skirt the fihe bodice is tight fitting and the girdle made of roses and foliage Shaded Ruffles on Skirted Full Skirted Frocks BLUE taffeta is used for another model which shows sixteen flounces reaching to a II shallow yoke low semi fitting bodice The has bas two t 0 tiny tIDY ruffles on the edge of the slee sleeve e cape Doucet is showing a II collee collee- collection tion bon containing many circular cut tUniCS and ruffled skirts He lie fea- fea features features fea features tures shaded evening gowns and elaborate beaded models He uses the pannier effect by placing ruffles in triangles on the front and acid an backof backof back of a skirt and concentrating their fullness at the sides of the waist Martial et Armand make use of dIr cir cir cir- circular circular cular ruffles end employ them very attractively on their 1880 models bich are lifted slightly in back and h have ve ruffled lower edges The Dolly Sisters are helping to arizo wide skirted effects as aU all ot of their new dancing costumes are in this effect Jeanne Lanvin and Alice Bernard make their clothes clothe and have really done lovely things for them but of course they are too extreme for anyone any one but vaudeVIlle artists However a great stage in- in interest in interest terest lerest in the wide skirts tends to focus taus interest in less extreme styles of f the same allme character f for r society women Callot has hItS great success with her beautiful ell taffeta dresses trimmed rimmed with ith dyed net net and made in very wide skirted affects |