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Show j I ,, .."".. .V , '". ' - i i ! ' rr-r-il rr-T-wnnpn.1 , ., - - - - " r ' - - -- - ' - V I ( . jWHAT THE REST - DRESSED .WOMEN ARE GOING TO WEAW . j H V -- --. - - , ,. - ' T Hl f mi i i oq c r Pf- ' EwBSwffll'; 'ilNfWSwW I ' .-':. -a '!! .V,fl BsiKfe I -i-fl 1 -H i Cream White Voile and Lace Gown 11 f M 111 P V'' W&& ' I ! , H IWOT-'Sl 1 -H --. ,--. ' Photo Ch.lOli by Reut.Ir FM$,0 MS 1 N'!fW'P' SVl W' ' 1 -H '."::"'--; -WCpnkht 1011. x,w York Herald tpan, T W JtoISMSISI V. 1 If J 'V ' Wl - - I Jr' 'S' f fl "BY MRS. A'. T. ASHMORE. H I H HI3; science, of ilress is qn all- El 0 .'ilsc riling snuiy. and that- mod-Hjft mod-Hjft I M l'ni tlrcss is u ncienco tliat de- V' ) (j ' mands inressan? Study np ear- H i nest thic'jrr .rlll deny. Under the H ) i:isc of ;:j)areni simplicity Yig H I; hidden mys'or'.c:; of Ur.p and color, while H ) I under ap.irciJt comi!tfxjlyjof mauiifact- H nrc art' couet'alod fuudauiental rules tli.it Hj once learned enahle any wommi of avcr- 1 ' age iutellipt-ucD to he so voll.f,'ou-md tlmt j . she will be considered noticuablj-. smart. 'Line upon line, precept upon precept." H Black and White Ccwn wltb White Strip. HBHBHJl the ,niotlo so laborouflly toiled over in H J the old time copy books, may well be taken H os tho watchword of modern fnnhionB. H for if each and every line be not carefully H studied and aireCttlly adapted to the in- H . dividual the smartest and most elaborate H H rowu will be voted unsatisfactory. H it Individual Styles. HHHHHHi ' A It is unu.stiallv Into in flin cn -. H . : ) the arbitrary rules of fashion to bo issued, H 4 ( there is a general consenstJH of opin- H V ion that arbitrary rules nrc to be for the H ) present at least waived and that there Hj r ;vi11 be more opportupity for -women to B ' I choose styles .becoming to the individual H! rather than to blindly follow rul'es, with- Ht ont regard to size or shape. Hl 'aists may be large, but lu'pg must be l small; skirts may be full, buttlicy must Hl ot look wide. Bias efl'ecLs are fa.shjon- Hl . ' al,1 anl straight lines nrc obligatory. HJ ' Tlie.e are just a-few of the contradictory Hi I statements vouchsafed to the seeker. after H ; reliable information on the subject of the HflHIHflHH Hl ; , In despair the late summer models are H ; turned to, those models that have been Kj - nut forward weeks after the general opon- H : !ug8 oC iho summer fashions have been H Jield the models that the more- exclusive H dressmakers furnish to their most ex- H elusive customers who demand, original H l ideas. Be it known that these nmc H ' j towim furnish tho models for the ncx H ;eason, and the clever woman watches H or them and has her winter gowns H ; : nued from them, if she sees an ;espe- Ml cially attractive model. She recognizes that in this way she can secure originality origi-nality of design. Cream Lace Fashionable. Lace is to play an important part in all dresd this winter and the shops are filled with the most wonderful variety of design and widths in all kinds. The crenm and darker shades to ecru are more fashionable than white, and these are used in all dark materials aswell as iu light. Heavy lace dyqd to match the gowu is also in favor, but this is not to be rashly rccortimended, as if requires a good quality oj lace and an expensive one, otherwise it does- not dye well and soon looks gray. .All" Venetian 'lace designs de-signs arc popular, wtiUe Cluny and Clet are shown in a most remarkable diversity of patterns- For winter street gownn there nrc heavier laces need for trimming, trim-ming, and these arc heavily embroidered, so that only glimps.es of the net may be seen. But for gowns o' .be worn now anyof the heavier laces are appropriate, while for the house or for the gowns to be worn under fur coatK and long coats there is no rule as to what lace Is appropriate. appro-priate. Some of the new lacea resemble wwr .. Velvet Gown with rice Jnhot. closely the'eut work lllat was so fashlon-nble.a fashlon-nble.a few years ago and which was so effective with tho cloth gowns. For tho evening the lace gowns nrc of tno most .expensive order, and tho exquisite ex-quisite fab'rlc is used with an apparently reckless disregard it cost. All over lace and lace more than half a yard in width ies tnken and apparently wrapped around the figure, in horizontal lines, the lowest low-est wrapping disclosing a pointed train edged with satin or soft taffeta. One or two breadths of lace fall from the left shoulder to the hem of the kirtr very' much as tho saah of the Highland costume cos-tume falls from the shoulder. It is one of the most eccentric of the present ec-contric ec-contric styles now in favor, but. strange to relate, has a charm and certain Ema'rt look if worn by a slender woman. It h needless to say there Is ;i perfect fitting gown of white satin worn beueutu it pl wl '4 a irk t m 1 WBSkISSw& ' l : V W&h''- WJi Striped Voile de Soie Gown t mSSmWSS -- A MWW4:S S - - v E?c,lu3tVc Copyright, 1011, Wcr, V.ork Herald Cmpiny. iJMNKSH. White Satm Gown -w3ith Lace and'Silk Frinee '.""' '. tSmgSSP-'-'W! tf-'rfcTRrrTJ Pboto Cdpyrlgtt, 10U, by Reutllnper HIBefiJKiRiiMBEN -yslsij ticutlva CopyVlffbt, IpU, rcW York Herald Company : i ' A ; 024vRse Gown C.oVered.ith Jet EmbroidcretLTunic- - J Si . i . "' ,- ?hotoCojri6tif, 1D11, by catnngcr M ' fr---'? '':' '.'' cluilve-Copyrlebi, 19ll, Key York Herald Company .i' V ; t - " -. - i ' 'fc .-nv& . Combining vsii't in or silk' wkhTtbioce is most cleverly' done and secttiHr iS1 In-haucc In-haucc its beauty. The same shade as'the lace can be chosen, or a white with crrin: lace, or,, if preferred, u color, or even black can be used. The two latter have the objection that thf-y gjj'ts such distinct contrast as to out the '(Jgure. .interferV with the underlying straight incs; but i' is a question to be doeidcdjby indivfduul tn.Mte whether the alj. wrutejV'The'uibi-e becoming and effective or wheflier, 'the i 4 WfW '.! if X '- w . . Ckth Contiini wJIL Vclonr Trimming. contrast of black or color' Is more desirable. de-sirable. "---- - -- CrCp'c de Chine is onc'.bf .(the popular materials for the-aiitumn nndtyiiUijjnjiffd Plain aqd, ligureu ne Used W.umke tip, the afternoon gowp tlnit for luncheons XM " . - . - y ' " yvVi -. . ' 5 VtS" '. . " ' nfeSl '"V: ' - ' Ik fw .' ) Q ' I A j " v mm 4 ' ; li ""'1 3 J ; ITT Uluo Coni wltli lln" Clotb. , : and card parties is so necessary. Later on velvet or velveteen wiillake its place to a certain extent, but there a re few .safer investment's , than the crepe de Chine gown', hlaclr or colored. Black with yellowish Jnee is so becoming and smart, while crenm white with luce to match and relieved with touches of coloi'i in velvet belt and bow or rovers on the waist or (jiie.of .rim new" shades of blue green or mauveany one of tlicse will; be Hat and attractive- If fTiV plain mat. rial is selected triuiming will be ner-csary; If thc brocrtded or figured, then folds of silk or satin or some touch iof velvet will be all suillcient. and be it Iremeinbejcjfd that brocaded effects of nil fkjnds n.re.-moi fashinnSfojtjiisj, juter. j'hiji' brptfided ' vefyelfc go(re the snuirtesL'f ItJietieW motiol.'. ; 'r SillEmbroJdy ITsjtd. (". , Tlie heavy silk euinroiderytow so ; fashionable' Ls a.markctf. Ccafure of the winter ktyles and thc mnnncrinwhich it is pmhined with the thiitfstrrinsparpn't materials is mosti effective. Sheer voile do sofe niessnline and phiffon are combined com-bined .with liberty silk or satin that is completely covered vit;rnji elaborate de,-sjgn de,-sjgn worked in lien vy silk;, sometimes with 'jet. a steel bead fiytifely covering the embroiderr. .'Ou' tho-dnsic. clinging '- :J , , ;-' ,'"'. ' i. r - v0i-rf.. ' ' . ' -V "- i 1 ' I A ' i ' H' ' d f m "! v,i..j clyiji fjiwn.4.ilnmn.,wliiijSiai:"'.. i- robes this heavy -embroidery shows the1 best. .- .' , ';-:.' :'': r . '' '.. Worhel pi: a, panel ai.'t',k-e.'tiiv.zs straightuiud t!ic rdwrg'ix'OMsLviUeiU'Jy Ts most distinct. A charming model is of hlte satin with overdress of heavy ailk embroidered liberty t?atin.-- This is slashed at the side to show a gown of chiffon or voile 'de spfc through which shines thc while satin. ' It is of necessity an fy'pnsi model, nqtone'to be ra'gltly utujpt.frdbut most attnctive. artisife and''bcci)niing. , It can-!bf ' copfqif in brdfadciiiiistcad of. embroidered saTiriftut' . ''.? .-. rT: ; ' '. ' " ' Jtliv '.. fiT v ' mc -:-.-!. Jfelf ,, '," . Blue Serce Coctumcj , , Mien there i. tlie danger of ItJndivldual-ity ItJndivldual-ity being lost. . All bvoeaded'iuaiori.il. are hr demand. The evening gwns of brocapd satju, silk mud velvet ate superb in hsignvcolor and texture, while the limeade velvets for recep;io:i g.wu. are t'jfillrss Ip miiphiT. UnM and silver brocade for ball'gciwmi. wiili wal'l tniiiininc.i. of Voni'tian point ,?.-v. -r iu:iiVeI!yi"-Jy. beauiifi'l, n:id ?!ie:i w '.v 's !1 'dijict' are well vorth: the prices nkcil. Imt the: e SUip,.ll'icij! nre proliibittivvfor the ia.jorI;,J cxi in'1 pr.'ce -Tiretliv oiJier-InK-udeH- w!hpti. .sij-f, -.ir y:nl zb',1. lint lhcie .ilso Vjsii Ij; cgrljji I if the more expensive qualities are r chosen. Fortunately there is a wide - range of clioicc and there arc to be found ' " 1 -i - g" Costumo of BlucSrw. f - . h niany( that are most beautiful and at a ?; price that is possible-while the, trimmings of the waist can be .within the reach of ' a limited dress allowunce. Carefut Choice of Fabrics. -Jn.iclcct'nh,e gowns for thc winter , ,eAvulfni w1 onli' n certain amount of ft mbiiey to expend must select carefully i'm the fabrics .she .Wants, and also must de- ,-1 .qldo only aftqr careful consideration on i the number of gowns slie will reo,uiro to i carry- her throin-h the season. Never ;! 1& wer'o'Jhere such superb and, such expen- Vl sivc materials, neser ' was the cos.- of 'M dressmaking greater, aud to bo stuurtly t gowned secjiis at the momeut of I J rltr in ore serioius importance thau ever. T But tJiere is auothOr side to the question i H and. the silver lining to the dark cloud il Ill's iu the great variety of- materials to tf, t choose - ftdni, with the corresponding i. 3 viirioty in cost, ajid iii t'no faqt that the -l A majority of dressmakerw, I lie lower its It well as tho liigli.ej- priced, "kiiow clothes, ' i J I hat' Is. understund niuoh better than 1. If cwr wlurr -style: - sluts ech customer. & Jhen n few' good .rather than a quantity v u !if half way gowns is accepted as the A 2 nnly wjtie plan, and on thefow good ortes a 3 rtiii hi' lavislied nil the money and all the ,' v ll'orf jhat w'onld hnye to coyer the ninny j: w linlf way (inos. And with the knowledge. i jfiv4llit b lieeojnitifi nnd'tb'n. expenditure f I if'elireful thought ntrir:gttidy'iiRle. mar' y. ,el!o!'s resdlf.?iii:iy luv accomplished ot IS :':rpr!sii!gly small. uiitlay of ready cash. fjVJ 1 if |