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Show I "" fWHAT THE BE5T DRESSED WOMEN AFE GOING TO WIARJ j 9H i i HMHHH H K - A. A -S -""AW -- -'Sill iMftfoJ ' "" Purple and Black Ninon Gown 9H ' '"" g''" - Dove Colored Brocade Gown Sif Mfr&d J&$? vllJv$ B 7 (SS Pho,o,y,nnnn,, Exchlsivc cwr?(:bt, 1011, SdjMWy 'SiW 9 Exclnsirc Copyright, 1011 F ' 999 New York Hcrnld Company H ' Brocade and Caracul Scarf 999 fjioto hj "Hecri Msaufl H BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. THERE is such a feeling of unrest un-rest and uncertainty in regard Sy to nil mnttcrs pertaining to dress 99V " nt the moment that many women 999 declare they arc tempted to wear 999 last gear's gowns rather thnn or- 999 der blindly, Uoweer, they would seem H tii have resisted the temptatibn. judging 999 l from the number of .smart and mqst up 999 to date costumes worn by -women of all 99 ) ngqs. Marked individuality is demanded Of H every dressmaker, hut with the individ- 99 ) uality certain rules must also be observed 99 in keeping with the accepted gtjlc of flic 99 day. The exaggeratedly 'scant skill is 999 no longer smart, and there niiipi he sltfli- icicnt width to allow of a long step, hut all the tame the general effect mut he of extreme slenderiig The kimono hh . slece is soon to he b.iuishod. hut there 911 arc few gowns that do not hac the 9J9J kimono sljle of sleet e. modified trcinend- uusly in many instances and nlwnyg 911 modified to Suit the iiidiidiial wiarer. HI Tn fact, not only must the fashion lie individual and distinctive, but hoy must be planned to suit the individual. H Smart Long Coats. Vhen word pocs forth that coats are H to be long tho majority of women order H blhidly "a Ion? coal." wlnle'Uic woman H who knows elothes and who follows the H advice of her tried nnd truxted dri's- H ! maker sallies forth in a coat of just the H lenpth necessary to l)e becomili There H ih a charming lone; co.it tli.s o.ion, H I tho creation of an artist di'&incr. iliat !if carefully selected i ilitejely be-enminp, be-enminp, made in ratine, rough cloth h i and inntela.0; it is delightfully H smart with skirt to match. 'It h.tsigs H biraight from the shoulders, is dou- H ble-hie.ietcd, fastened with frog), has H ' a narrow velvet collar, wide turn hack H cufi's with broad baud of fur. f The nnr- H row fckiit is linished with a brri.ul' bund H of fur and there is an eagg'r.i(cdly H large muff of shirred si)kr or "Vn tin H trimmed with bands of fur. H ' From the same establishment is a moKt H I H , Dlncl. VdTct Gonn, wflh Vcnutlfiu Lnco, 'ilotic'cable coatunie, alHo of latine, or vol H " c The double skirt in eroded and fns B ivnfd over at the bide with large rosette H i H - i f fUt -Cr I , Awiw. Purple Brocade Satin Gown Photo by HrnrJ Manuel J?clu8lvc Copyright. 1011, . IsfU 3'ork Ilnrnld Gompany : 3 or motifs. The loose coat could only be ' designed and hnibhcd by an artist in clothes, for whilu appureutly shapeless it is extremely smart, a most unusual combination, com-bination, be it known. The coat is so double breasted that one side laps, completely com-pletely over tho other. On the wide white revers is an embroidered design that stand-out clear aud distinct against the white background. Tho loose kimono sleeves are short just below tho elbow and finished with deep bnnd of fur. And there is atoo the inevitable huge muff to complete the costume. To the uninitiated tlite lnodel seems devoid of line and symmetry, sym-metry, but there is j. charm about it that attracts attention, and to the initiated in the nijsterics of dress the lines arc wonderful and the very shapelesiincss indicates in-dicates study of every line and good point of the individual. Long Skirts in Favor. " The long skirt 1i,ik relumed to faor, and while tbe round skirt still retains its hold on popularity the trend is nil townid the far moic becoming train. As is alwajs the case when fashions change from, one extreme to the other, not only arc , the skiits of cMjning gowus made exaggeratedly; ex-aggeratedly; long, but for reception nnd nftcrnoon wear are to be Been skills with - trains ihaL lie on the floor. Charmingly ; gtai;eful are some of the new fashioiit.. s and theic-aro many that are-not e.ag- HO Jwm XP $43t&tit JwWm & :,r , $K-H WS&S&TF'SZtt PlTZrft&v ffW ' tea " fepr Sm "White Satin Govn with Ermine Scdrf o "Pltnlii lo uri Wniiurl ExrlualTp-Copyrtchr, 191 1) Nrw Vork Iltrald Corornnj i gerated and arc becoming nnd practical ; The hoft. clinging fnbiioa are still the I emartqst 'and the trained skins of plain and brocade silk. Oilo, sutirt nnd el vet I are one and nil popular. The smrt nftcrnoon nftcr-noon and receptiou gown is this year moiej nttraethe 1 1 in ti ever, possibly because of the more generally becoming long skirt, while combining plain 4ind figured materials ma-terials permits of incjrc wirioty. A charming charm-ing mode is a plain liberty atln combined com-bined wilh a clet biocadpd satin or voile do soic. The gov" fc of the pl.iin material, tjic skirt borderfd wilh fur; then there i& n wide srarf of tho same color witli huge polka dojg Qf clet 0i plusJi and n muff to ninieb, and (,js scnif must be worn so tint at fiiSi glance it looks liko a long train. This gown hns only .a short train and U moro on Ihc rouii( skirljshape. r ' Libcuy saliu and x tin ,hnrin'eiise are f.ibricfi that luin For sioinii time, lueu fashionable, Voile 'de 'soie' and-chiffon have also been iu gieat ilciuuud. Again are these fabrics one and all utilized m jthe most fasclnaiing of gowns, and util-i7ed util-i7ed ,i only an ailist can utilize them No distinct line to bo followed, no ar-bitr.iry ar-bitr.iry rule can be laid down to produce pro-duce such woudciful results as are attained at-tained by the present styles when carried out to perfection. The material Is wrapped rather than draped around the .figure) "bill, wlubjLl: outlines it. is uever vulgarly Mfggclve. The th.vii'goable effects, either In the material Itself or obtained by the lining of one color of i.itin and then an o'r-kirL of .mptjier in liansp.irent miitoiial. are marvellous In shading .ind eontr.it. There is almost .lluiijs a high waist line, but invariably so placed that it -adds the I'ffecls of length nnd sionderness. The narrowest fold finishes the skirt wheie it joins the waist, nnd often Hits is hidden under a soft Ixdt or girdle with long knotted lush 'cuds. ' J MM , :,$ vi:ii' ft - .s?m3S&7 VI mXiT? Gray Brocade Crepe dc Chine Gown - - jl ) VM-y t fhoio hy Henn Minucl v r 'huiW Citlusl!- Copvrlbt. 1011, Now York Derald Company ' i -": ' White plas,iau all Infportaiit part in t Iros aud white revets and collars unj--'iing to Lring White near tjie fajee are de-a de-a uidrd, J i is a' i'ni)l hceoining fasluon. i nd the fine s.oft lulio. uet nnd shadow .ies ,ir6 a. greac-,iiItlition to any nnd ccry .us: Tfieio are tunny di.Terent styles land lengths, of lcete. The modified 1 1 mono is so becoming that it is to be hoped the fashion will renin id popular indefinitely, in-definitely, but ir is so extremely popular there tv small chance thftt this will be" bo, "M.inj of the evening gowns this reason hion kimono st)e of trimming The' em I'uri'Io Vthti (j'unn.. broidered and jewelled nets nnd laces, as, well as themost transpiuelit of chift'on. at.- ud n' a 'irimmnig and sleeves all iu 'one, so that the ftnarincss nnd dis-tmetieiiHj5i dis-tmetieiiHj5i of Jho" fashion seem doomed to disupp'enr'lipcedilji. It is north' while wl 9afcwSytoBwSlMtcE3ittaiT?rnMffj "it -- 0s?p" L-- - - - i1 s'Sjv .'S'tf '".". "- " 1"- - - -I f rfej -" -. ''r-- ?- - 1 1. Brown and JBlack Striped CostumeJ M Photo by Ilcnrl rtLmucf m Exclusive Copyright, J.011, Wew Xork Ocrjild Coihpany jfl Vy. CW materials of this gown are most costly, but execs-sive simplicity is the keynote. V It is not a model to be rashly attempted, M for again does this alt.o show the hand of an artist in clothes, but it docs furnish w details that are worth cop ing Tiie W i r . l. L o take advantage of-.so charming u fashion fash-ion this winter and not to look forward to it enduring foiCM-r. Tho wiapped as well as- the draped effect ef-fect are carried mit to greatest advantage In the'new material 'of Ibis season. Hro-ended Hro-ended crepe dc Uhine and liberty satiu for $m : ' ' 1 lip I .'l . 1 p " Krralno Kvcnlnc Coat the smart reception or bridge gown leave little to be desnvd. A fascinating model has a trained skirt edged witL fur, open- : iug- at one side to show an underskirt ' with band of embroider.. The waist bj loose, with sleees all in one, long nnd : close, htting. with the eflect ot a uious- 1 fin'ctiino t glove 'below tlio elbuw. A J straight puiicl falls fiom the high wail i liue down the fiont of tin; sl:itt The I only trimmiug on the' waist isa rdw (.. tj t t buttons and : turnoer Iact; cpllnr. The I waisc anil sicecs can, lor jusi.iui-e, ue jt; combined wilh a skirl much simpler m de- 9 pign, less dilhfiilt to copy and more gen- M orally becoming At the same time, as it V standi it is the perfection of a smart re- S ception gown of the present day S Light Colored Gowns Popular. M White and light colored gowns of all 9 kinds are immensely smart, and becoming jB more so eery daj-. It is the customary M reawjion from the black and dark colors - that have been so fashionable, .ind. ! ! while uot practical for general wear, for the woman who is forced to depend upon 'public (.omcjaiiccs tbey are none the Ie-3 perhaps all the more smart. White-wool White-wool back fcatin. white cloth, white clnf- ; .fon velvets, white ratine and all the I lightest shades of color nre being made ; iuto the most fascinating of afternoon costumes, of coat, skirt and waist, or iu the one piece gown to be worn under the i ftir rout or wrap. There Is something " delightfully incongruous in while for the winter, and. then,, till furs look so well with it. Etmine, the skins without the 9 tails, dimmed with a border of the taiK is A made up into enormously wide stoles and huge mulls These stoles or wraps ate i nude stilllciently warm to permit the ; wearing with the one piece gown without ; auy other coat or wrap. Then the dark ' furs arc alwajs mc-t efTectie in con- ! trasl to white and light colors, aud .i broad band of fur around the skirt, wide cliffy and levers on a,plain -nhuc cos- tunitis strikingly becoming. j These wide fur scarfs are a uict im i ; port. -in I factor iu the wardrobe of this j winter, and the lieauty of the fur neer 8 show,,s to greater advantage As wide 9 and gs long as possible is apparently the 9. rule, and often these scarfs arc of such M proportions that they can be wrapped 9" onccor jtwice arouud the figure Mole- Mj. skin, sealsJJn, moir6, Persian, eriujne V and fable are the most fashionable furs 3tj Llborly Satin Gown. jK for this put pose, but every known and 9l nyniy unknowu fur& ate made up into- jf9 these scarfs, with muffs to mutcji as a k9 rule. The fashion has much, that is prac- 3Mk tieal jibout it; it makes iwsslblc the wear- Jjf1 ing (if the one piece gowu of .un mu- VM teiiul, foi' it is so simple to throw nfl 3 the fur wrap wheu in a crowded loom ZJ9L nud when the removing of a fitted fur jjw eoaf would be impossible. The scarf 3fB nipst be bojh v'ide and long or it will K uot be smart. When the cost of the fur ii.is ,to be considered jt is possible to i9 5nin something of the same effect with '-Vp the scarf made of velvet, satin or ratine jm trinnned with bauds Of fur, on the same s9J irder as thuaohiffou find innrabnut senvfs ,9 lyrv Imu' been fasln'tynable for some thuo 9J 'm |