| Show I t I Zbe5altakeZribunt i' 1 : : ' Travel Desk: - - - 1 - : -- s : I f ‘ k tu man" i 4' ' r- ' 14 f ' ql i I ''' 6 e '' L'1 golf" ' And my wife never says to her friends "What a bum Bill is Every other night he has some gourmet treat ready for me by the time I get home from work I wish he'd find something constructive to do — like go out and play golf once in a while like any normal husband" We are all bums or heroes in some respect for reasons having far more to do with coincidence than with good intentions For in- - -- d J 1 4 1 - -- 41T d't lk cc 3 4t ' -- - t 1104 o I - r'4 1- T'NA4 Wiewttt Mil t''' - vt'1 7 " 7 Ál 44 t 4A4ti oittiL111 ' - ----- ) le Nd---- 4 t I t 1 1 4' 4 -JW it I tk ir r ''' 'I t - - 41 -- 4:tt is- Ig - elk e''' t '' t ir 41 - - t-- t- e1'- g i - -- 45 1 r Tr ' -- '''' t 4 i ('' - ti":V 4 4- - - r 't" i ' 1 ' 4 - Aej:'7:'' oof ' fik4- ':L'i' i i til ? ' ': i: - "" L0 - ' 4 (" - ' - " ) I r'' di t It k n - 1' 1 tt - ogtoreir ' - ' 4:1('0400rir- 0 :' ! -- - - - 4 0 a i 1 LI- - F710-' -7- -t 4 f--es 1 1 -: blue-haire- d - - i'7 I 1iLk den ' - 44 tt Ilim:rtg s 1 I T 1401P04r1:-e-p- Vt r C4"' 114 ie cr 1 4 - 1 01ty J"'S- t t A I A ypeaft--s: t 4 - head-spinnin- sian Empire which dates to Peter the Great's conquest of Estonia early in the 18th century and the Soviet occupation of the 20th century These cultural make Tallinn a fascinating place Certainly it is among the Baltic ports on the itineraries of most western travelers so passengers who join The Salt Lake Tribune's cruise to the "Lands of Vikings and Czars" in July and August will get a rare look at this little corner of the northern world The cruise ship Crystal Harmony will put in at Tallinn July 27 for a day's sightseeing en route between Stockholm and St Petersburg Other ports of call include Copenhagen Rostock (with connections to Berlin) Oslo Amsterdam and Tilbury (with connections to London) One of Tallinn's appeals is its intimate scale The city's population is only about of the entire 500000 roughly population of Estonia Many of the city's most important points of interest are concentrated in the Old Town Motor vehicle access is restricted within the city walls so cross-current- 13-da- people independent t Paul WetzebThe Salt Lake Tribune St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral stands on Lossl Square across from Toompea Castle one-thir- s y d II See F6 Column 1 ' ' ' 1 i t """"-it' —va--- - r- t ' (? 11 - t404r 2 It - ' 4 I'd4 111111 I I I II II --0 'IP I - t 1 4 kt ' ' 1 " D 1) f -- 'C'"- - i - l ' - I's- a - - ' lit irtil?blt f i C 1- 7 1 1' - - f-- 3 Je : D r - i I ' Ifl icli 1 is 11 I 1 ltx ''Iiityllt I L lx-)- it 1 ) ) 0 L firiti 1 I 11 t101:1TIMW ' I lit'y'FAtiviti 11i'll 1 1 e) A 11 I t s y 1 1 - i 4 i - 1 0 rii 0 ?' 0 1 ‘ it (3 I i I t ' ' :it - ! t 1 1111111 r - cp RIA41000001 1111 J r i I 41:ievrtsm '4 1 4 i ' 0 1 r - - Er Column 7 - i I F-- vmi x"- e''''' - L 0 I t : i : t ' F - - ''' See irrol10re!ar-TFPWIIMWrIPPS1F-7-1 -- w401A6606400444A62044iewttarkAtoue sIpe zi MI 1 7mirglorTrwwpritrgertiesapernrwpwemerjra: s g neo-Na- least-visite- d unconquered and unconquerable Their capital reflects this tempestuous but proud history Its heart is a medieval fortified town securely wrapped in high stone walls and cylindrical towers capped by peaked roofs Its architecture echoes the North German and Scandinavian traditions of commerce and Protestantism that befit one of the ancient trading capitals of the Hanseatic League Within Tallinn's walls the Old Town is a charming warren of cobbled streets soaring church spires small shops cafes and homes built by the solid centuries-old- middle-clas- s merchants and sea captains Superimposed on this Northern European heritage is the influence of the Rus 1 —1' 1471 i9 ‘ - r an mained ApowelorA011011 ': ' t '''71'': 11 ''''1411"44''''w it3'tt'e' ''''' PTA TALLINN Estonia — The history of this Baltic seaport is one of warfare occupation and commerce Through the last eight centuries Germans Danes Swedes and Russians all have marched in succession into Tallinn Yet in a spiritual or psychological sense the Estonians have re- I t 0' 0 I1 I -- By Paul Wetzel :i ::: c: z 1 :' " 4i - : fi4 '''''' 1 qi ' THE SALT LAKE TRIBUNE '' - !J 1'1 praise and he doesn't deserve a bit of it He can't help liking to dance It's just something he enjoys for odd reasons like my finding it relaxing to cook After all John doesn't dance to help humanity or to build a better world He doesn't do it in any sacrificial way at all or even because he wants to be nice to everyone at the table John is a generous man ''-- :7---- ' 1 ''' '' '4!?' 1 ': !!:)'( - ''" yL 1 ' iA 't - t il' 11 i0'4:4:!'i'!' ' 1'a':''"' '''-1'- 1'12: i ' ?:Ig i Tribune cruise to call at Baltic port 'AL n4 1 ' 4 ii414d1' :' i ' s)- - :' t r ?r'''01 h ' 4 'c ''"1: 7 - "I'-'‘' e ''''' Gothic churches tower over adjoining rooftops to form the Tallinn skyline Inset a folk dancer performs outdoors at Rocca al Marre 5-i 4 f" I A 2 '§ 0 t 97 oekO' t ! q I r11 ' 0 191A tA ---- -''' ' ' ' - r t: : - a i i I - ut:: i ? t Fit - 1 ::::11! rv:k4 - Ft r 9 ' '"44 : - Lx7' 3 - ' - IisIV 'It ' 4 i- t ir4 I- v tyl- 11J1k - I "If ut - c 4 Paul Wetzel The Salt Lake Tribune ' ' ' 111)A -" iI 01 11 ' ' - ' 1 A 'tt t ' V 4 -- e g I — 12 : 'r - a te-i- tp ek - ' '''''"II 't ""II i A l' al 1 - ' ' t : 4s A 4 '' kli 4 - - r4 N A k ti I u i 71 1 ? if 4 v-- - lt - I ! -- - '1 ed It -ft 1 '4 4 ' 1 - It'111r2' ' Crj:-1Ar-foo- or irt EA r Oti r ': of - '' — 771:: - 4" laJi ' p 1!: u1 Paul WetzelThe Salt Lake Tribune - garbag- - ' 1 t 4 Lts II A - - i4 4 - "-- ) 44 - 4 ''?I''' 06 kkl - 07-- '' ' ( - N4 Af111t 11-14- ' 4 ' - v 11 At f' A I tr r a I - Ogotti 41' 4 -' i certain amount of dancing myself on those evenings just to be sociable But John dances every dance grabbing first this giddy woman and then that giddy woman bringing them giggling back to the table where they sit there talking about how much fun John is — unlike some dull blobs of mashed couch potato they could mention I guess there's nothing I enjoy more than sitting around listening to women rave about how wonderful John the dancer is — with the possible exception of having a root canal This guy gets all this 47 I:41 ' 'A T- Int A li - -- '44' iie t 4 'r---- 4 Z( : iltii' ' "1' wei-- lide'''''75e' I tl:- :00i000:0000om000— T ' 11111111g ' ti'' - - a 4 '- - r - - 9 "741Atet047 icv 01 s" 4' -- o :t3 pee-Nrt- 4 --- ''''''" t 111 I ' I'44 tk - Ikt e-- 1 -- - ' 1 To ' s se fliso 40 III -i tit s 7t 7 lArct '' ' - I ly - 7 f - - ' t4d:r49---- I-- a a77- i J — 41 v I i lar with women But those men who love to dance deserve no credit for it John for instance John comes to town from Oregon from time to time and he loves to dance He takes us out on the town with other couples for dancing And I do a Column t — lw A -- 41kA 'or- - 1 - 1 A p - - tg'1:-p- - dx vf j '' -t - Z makes you popular with most women Not dancing is rarely popu- F-- 4 I ' - 91 r1111 fir ' - 4 ''- iw - izy I ? - 1 ftt 16 - 4 0 -- dance Some don't Dancing See i 10 BERLIN — Here's what's so special about Berlin: Under gray armor skies you decide to seek shelter on a sunless day Trouble is you're standing in the middle of Potsdamerplatz once the city's busiest intersection but today merely a dismal e-strewn lot claimed by artists who have dragged old tanks and warplanes into the middle of the plaza and painted them pink There aren't a whole lot of places to duck into other than the MIGs But if you squint you can see just there a lone building farther down the rutted road So you venture in ignoring the cracked windows and barbed wire atop the courtyard fence And what do you find inside this crumbling old edifice in the middle of this decaying plaza in this time of year in Berlin when the air is thick and sweet with coal smoke? ladies sip Elegant tea and tussle with slabs of Sunday cake surrounded by opulent baroque architecture Young sophisticated Berliners listen to cool jazz wrapping themselves around' a gracefully curved Art Deco bar and ordering bottles of wine for 45 Deutsche marks (or about $30) They are immune it seems to the broken shards of war and communism scattered so casually about And that you see is what's special about Berlin It is a place of constant surprise layered meancontrasts ing where "expecting the unexpected" is not a cliche but salient travel advice Surprise ineffably is part of the Berlin experience Life is changing in Germany and it's clearly not an easy transition There are the continuing reskinhead activiports of ty the increasing tax burden for west Germans the unemployment and rising rents for east Germans Visiting Berlin at this juncture when the city is so pendulously balanced between past and future promise and discouragement is nothing short of an electrifying historical experience "From the outside you never know what the inside will be" says Heidi Hiebert a former US resident who now lives in Berlin "Not everything is exposed There is the excitement of living in a city like that The element of unexpected surprise In the US you go to places and you kind of know what to expect Berlin isn't as predict2ble as that or some of the other big German cities" Sheer size alone would shield Berlin from the threat of predictability The city is the size of a small European state having grown to its gargantuan propor- r momeAr41fcrlitit0mcmiz- ' 1 ) - WItrif stance when it comes to dancing I'm the slacker Some men love to 111 1 L im-i- Pamela Reynolds BOSTON GLOBE - - 1 " Pi By 1 : Ii ':' ' 't - 0 1 L itt ' 'N 4''12 go '1 ::g1-1-jilfir:t- 11'1 chose I am considered noble and Dan is considered a slacker Nobody says to Dan's wife "You're lucky I'wish I had a bus band who was always out playing 140004 -i j it t 1 Estonia 14 ' r'o- -- 1 1441 J'i k ' I 4 ' lc caolua 0f m Hall -- t e I Bill - I - 4 Medieval 17-- :- in Lig IP ' r- t t t' ki i 4 °4-- f:ii:::ctv - In Berlin expect the unexpected 1 n 1 f i 71 Fl t i ! 't77----t'-- k -- -- - 1 - ' :ke' t It's not fair Dan golfs for fun and I cook for fun But cooking makes me popular with women and golf can make a man unpopular with women We both have our hobbies for exactly the same lazy reasons — just a way to goof around and relax and enjoy ourselves But by the coincidence of the hobby I I ! - makes one noble or just a slacker L i SUNDAY April 4 1993 237-201- 1 Choosing a hobby ' i AvEL r 11 00 - ---- — - ' |
