| Show "WW 1RAVEL Travel Desk: SUNDAY 237-207- 5 January r Fl: 12 1992 When hen's setting you are getting one crabbv mother 'Tm madder than an old wet setting hen" she said That scared me a little I have dealt with "setting" hens in my v time Or "sitting" hens if you want to be gramatically rather than rustically correct But most of us on the farm used to say "setting" hen ! Bill Hall And so did former Idaho state Sen Rachel Gilbert the other day while trying to underscore how' angry she is over the property tax "I'm madder than an old wet setting hen" she said Tm not sure how plain she made herself to others but she made her meaning her age and probably her origins piain to me with that expression 4 Bodies ©f Even her build Rachel Gilbert short and formidable — kind of like a hen with her feathers perpetually puffed up And she accepts the feisty image She proudly clucked on her campaign literature that she is so tough she has been called "Atilla the Hen" For good measure Rachel and I both move like chickens — quickly here and there like a bird Most people get the bulk of their mannerisms from family And chickens were part of my family when I was growing up Especially hens setting and otherwise Ordinarily a hen is as nice a person as you would ever want to meet They wander around the yard eating bugs and rocks making an agreeable sound like a state legislator with laryngitis A setting hen is another matter A setting hen is a driven and angry person She wants to be a mother and if anybody stands in her way she turns into a mean mother A chicken becomes a mother by sitting — or as Rachel Gilbert and I were taught to say — by setting on her eggs by incubating them with her hot bottom If she can sit on them and keep them warm long enough — three weeks — they will produce chicken kids Suffice it to say hens have fierce maternal instincts There comes a day when the urge toward motherhood wells up in them they plant their fluffy behinds on those chicken seeds and they don't take kindly to anyone who gets in the way of impending parenthood They won't let you mess with their brood — even when their babies resemble rocks more than children Hens were the original And so if you come along when a hen is trying to turn rocks into kids — when she is setting — she'll show you what the word crabby is ' hnporUct Torajas are interred in faults carved in limestone cliffs in the land of Tana Toraja located is Sulawesi Indonesia J n (? llnu By Robert Rapmi that was missing was Indiana Jones The tones were there heaped in headless piles The skalls had been removed and arranged in neat double rows or placed in shadowy niches where they gave a decorative touch to the gloom Jumbled about were intricately carved wooden coffins rotting and broken some shaped like animals others with prows like Viking ffT 7 1 ji J l It IsifIf If J I — (Hi tri ains f' (( 0 ir H - ) 0 o " "" arai-thic- si a Fff - n 0 ships The forest — palm trees vines groves k bamboo — grew to file lip of of the cave fronds glistening in the steaming saturated air Above the carnage soared a dome of jacged limestone curving toward a black void while a half doaen little girls stood giggling as they watched us picking a path through their gruesome playthings What to us was incredible and macabre AH 7 H if we arrived they were waiting eyes bright with mischief They'd done this before but still de'ughted in Western reactions to their ancestors' burial place Some of whom though not perhaps these very bones had been known to furnish their homes with other peoples' heads We were in Tana Toraja a mountain fastness deep in the heart of Sulawesi In See F-- 2 Column I was small potatoes to them They were Toraja children for whom the dead even in their less corporeal manifestations were as much a part of everyday life as the rice fields that fill their valleys and the rugged peaks that surround them They had raced like mountain goats up the slippery path while we stumbled and clutched at branches and our clothing accumulated layer spon layer of mud When J- 4 r ' it c By Jeff Walton THK SAXT LAX TR1BUN8 Athens' history its people its stunning vistas leave you breathless Unfortunately so does its pollution After a week spent exploring the city's chaotic streets and choking on its air I was gasping I longed to Breathe again So my companion and I hopped to the island of Crete and made our way to Chania on the northwesters coast South of the city the White Mountains rose into the haze I imagined those peaks overlooked clear streams and pine trees shifting in the breeze and my notions of Greece as an arid country oppressed by fierce sunlight — which my week in Athens had confirmed — shattered on Crete's ancient soil We wanted to explore this other Greece so on the advice of our guidebook rose early — though not early enough as we would find After breakfast on the roof our pension overlooking Chania's Venetian harbor we walked the few blocks to the See F- -i ed 1 Column ! 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