| Show RAVEL Travel Desk: SUNDAY 237-207- 5 ju V January Fl 12 1992 in i -- i m When hen's setting you are getting one crahby mother '0 "I'm madder than an old wet setting hen" she said That scared me a little I have dealt with "setting" hens in my time Or "sitting" hens if you want to V) be gramatically rather than rustically correct But most of us on the farm used to say "setting" hen V f iv-- n Bill Hall I V- S -' 1 57" V A - And so did former Idaho state Sen Rachel Gilbert the other day while trying to underscore how angry she is over the property tax "I'm madder than an old wet setting hen" she said I'm not sure how plain she made herself to others but she made her meaning her age and probably her origins plain to me with that 4 V f V ' i ' "S-x- ' y J 1 Robert Kag&tni Bodies of important Torajas are interred in vaults carved in limestone cliffs in the land of Tana Toraja located in Sulawesi Indonesia I lj()f (id Robert Ragaini All that was missing was Indiana Jones The bones were there heaped in headless piles The skulls had been removed and arranged in neat double rows or placed in shadowy niches where they gave a decorative touch to the gloom Jumbled about were intricately carved wooden coffins rotting and broken some shaped like animals others with prows like Viking By ( ships The forest — palm trees vines groves of arm-thic- k bamboo — grew to the lip of the cave fronds glistening in the steaming saturated air Above the carnage soared a dome of jagged limestone curving toward a black void while a half dozen little girls stood giggling as they watched us picking a path through their gruesome playthings What to us was incredible and macabre (( w (i was small potatoes to them They were Toraja children for whom the dead even in their less corporeal manifestations were as much a part of everyday life as the rice fields that fill their valleys and the rugged peaks that surround them They had raced like mountain goats up the slippery path while we stumbled and clutched at branches and our clothing accumulated layer idpon layer of mud When we arrived they were waiting eyes bright with mischief They'd done this before but still delighted in Western reactions to their ancestors' burial place Some of whom though not perhaps these very bones had been known to furnish their homes with other peoples' heads We were in Tana Toraja a mountain fastness deep in the heart of Sulawesi In See F-- 2 Column in Joum By Jeff Walton THE SALT LAKE TRIBUNE Athens' history its people its stunning vistas leave you breathless Unfortunately so does its pollution After a week spent exploring the city's chaotic streets and choking on its air I was gasping I longed to Dreathe again So my companion and I hopped to the island of Crete and made our way to Chania on the northwestern coast South of the city the White Mountains rose into the haze I imagined those peaks overlooked clear streams and pine trees shifting in the breeze and my notions of Greece as an arid country oppressed by fierce sunlight — which my week in Athens had confirmed — shattered on Crete's ancient soil We wanted to explore this other Greece so on the advice of our guidebook rose early — though not early enough as we would find After breakfast on the roof our pension overlooking Chania's Venetian harbor we walked the few blocks to the See I' f F-- 4 Column 1 g i - 5 Bit Robert Ragaini P::o:iS or 260 EAST MORRIS AVE PHONE HOURS: OPEN 24 HOURS! 8:00 OFFICE HOURS: Mon-Ft- l am-6:0- 0 JA 1 -0- 00-444-5660 Continental Airlines or Sierra Pacific Airline and are ubacl fo the terma ot the operator! All flight! via participant contract pm Sat 9:00 F-- 2 Column 3 J ::g£EE© 4 See Caves found in Tana Toraja are full of intricately carved coffins and the skulls and bones of Toraja ancestors f 3 483-645- 3 expression Even her build Rachel Gilbert is short and formidable — kind of like a hen with her feathers perpetually puffed up And she accepts the feisty image She proudly clucked on her campaign literature that she is so tough she has been called "Atilla the Hen" For good measure Rachel and I both move like chickens — quickly here and there like a bird Most people get the bulk of their mannerisms from family And chickens were part of my family when I was growing up Especially hens setting and otherwise Ordinarily a hen is as nice a person as you would ever want to meet They wander around the yard eating bugs and rocks making an agreeable sound like a state legislator with laryngitis A setting hen is another matter A setting hen is a driven and angry person She wants to be a mother and if anybody stands in her way she turns into a mean mother A chicken becomes a mother by sitting — or as Rachel Gilbert and I were taught to say — by setting on her eggs by incubating them with her hot bottom If she can sit on them and keep them warm long enough — three weeks — they will produce chicken kids Suffice it to say hens have fierce maternal instincts There comes a day when the urge toward motherhood wells up in them they plant their fluffy behinds on those chicken seeds and they don't take kindly to anyone who gets in the way of impending parenthood They won't let you mess with their brood — even when their un hatched babies resemble rocks more than children Hens were the original And so if you come along when a hen is trying to turn rocks into kids — when she is setting — she'll show you what the word crabby am-S:3- 0 pm Some restriction apply oWffi) 7 LicLkL2i2J day advance purchase required Friday or Saturday night stay also required Applies to round trip travel before February 12 1992 Ticket must be purchased no later than January 15 J992 Holiday and other blackout dates apply Limited seats available X |