Show The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday October WS 14 1990 1 Waves of change wash upon Black Sea ports of Odessa Yalta By Knight-Ridd- ODESSA USSR — What does glasnost mean? For tour guide Georgi Pinzul it means being able to point out the building where the Cheka (a predecessor of the notorious KGB secret police) shot and tortured prisoners For seminarian Father Constantine it means having 50 additional students next year in his monastery For electrical engineer Igor Dmitriyev it means feeling free enough to tell visitors about the daily two-howaits in line to shop for food For English student Natasha Butenko it means being able to invite foreigners to her apartment without fear of reprisal And for American visitors like me it means discovering a country far different from preconceptions molded by decades of the Cold War The single most surprising aspect of Soviet life I encountered on a recent visit to the Black Sea ports of Odessa and Yalta was the extraordinary degree of openness in the wake of glasnost Citizens talked freely of deposing the Communists of the excesses of previous regimes of the privations of life in the Soviet Union today — and of their hopes for tomorrow There were other surprises Instead of the close examination and official suspicion we feared at customs and immigration checkpoints we were passed through with no searches no questions no counting of currency just a casual glance at our passports At the seaside Hotel Yalta the second biggest in the Soviet Union we saw topless bathers on the beach Topless bathing in this rigid society! On the streets we saw d stylishly dressed women not the dumpy look we had naively expected Vendors took American dollars an illegal transaction almost under the noses of the police Black market offerings were rampant One can't of course judge a country on the basis of short visits to two cities But certainly what is happening here must be a reflection of the larger picture The people seemed not only ready for change but disgruntled because it wasn't coming faster Throughout our stays ashore in both Odessa and Yalta we felt an undercurrent of suppressed anger in a people who have had to do without for too long In Odessa that feeling was more pronounced perhaps because of this city's brilliant history and independent spirit Built at the behest of Catherine the Great Odessa operated as a free port and thus was receptive to Western ideas It became a lively center of culture attracting not only Russians but Greeks Bulgarians and Jews Important Russian writers among them Alexander Pushkin Maxim Gorky and Gogol made this a sometime base But war took its toll It was shelled in the Crimean War It suffered greatly in the Revolution of 1917-2- 0 and again in World War II when it y endured a siege and three years of occupation by German and paint and rotting wood beaches closed by pollution One of the Soviet Union's most important seaports Odessa is a major shipper of Ukraine grain and oil On its waterfront for almost as far as the eye can see stand dozens of stick-lik- e port cranes bent near their tops looking like a family of giant praying mantises It is in this harbor that one of the most famous incidents in Russian history occurred: the 1905 mutiny aboard the battleship Potemkin that spread to the city The celebrated 1925 Eisenstein film "The Battleship Potemkin" showed hundreds of people being killed on the broad granite steps — now called the Potemkin Staircase — that connect the Priharborside with the upper-leve- l morsky Prospekt promenade "I am disgusted at what the guides say of the uprising" said Pinzul our Polish-borguide in Odessa "A few people died but nobody was killed on the steps" In particular he said the movie scene of a baby carriage bumping down the steps never ocn curred Prospekt the popular elevated promenade has been repaved with yellow brick and "saved" according to Pinzul from the "architects" who wanted to replace its great chestnut and sycamore trees with small ones The Odessa Hotel built in the early 19th century is being renovated and will return to its former name the London Another hotel the Krasnai may also regain its original name the Bristol Odessa visitors should not fail to visit the archaeological museum which has a unique collection of gold coins dating to the Fourth Century BC Even more interesting to them may be what is happening to religious life here — and by extension in the rest of the Soviet Union "Before the Revolution there were more than 70 churches in Odessa Now there are only seven" Pinzul observed "The Transfiguration Cathedral was blown up in 1932 with its irreplaceable relics and a public toilet put in its place Thousands of priests lost their lives" But under glasnost Pinzul said a fundamental change is occurring "The attitude is different now thanks to Gorbachev There are more believers — 40 million now And we have even started to build new churches" This religious revival is particularly evident at the large monastery we visited a few miles out of town It was one of the few permitted to function by the earlier Communist regimes "We have 270 students now but we will have 330 next year" said seminarian Constantine "Now we have more than 30 monasteries and every two or three months another one is being opened" Though it is subject to the same contemporary stresses as somber Odessa Yalta has a much more playful atmosphere Modern hotels and sanitoriums look out upon the sea We watched Soviet vacationers whirling around on an Octopus ride at a shoreside carnival and in the hills above we could see the dachas (private villas) of the Soviet hierarchy One of them when we were there was occupied 73-da- Romanian forces Its resistance earned Odessa the status of "Hero City" granted to only 13 Soviet cit- ies Under Communist rule Odessa's spirit was sapped We were struck by the evidence of Odessa's past glory: magnificent buildings boulevards an opera house as grand tree-line- d as Vienna's But as impressive in another way were the evidences of deterioration and privation: a meat market empty at 3 in the afternoon outdoor lines at a perestroika-bre- d fruit stand buildings with peeling Newspapers by Soviet president Mikhail Gorbachev 0111011 0 U A W :t Russian aristocrats have been "rave 4 coming to Yalta since it was linked to road Sebastopol in the 19th by ill t zoot Century Czar Alexander II built Li) vadia palace in the 1860s and other 1001k1 rowing network already in 324 sterts across 4$ states nobles followed with seaside manEarn S20000430000 or mote a year sions (Profits reflect your initiative) e e Fun or from home or office Sojourners from other European with your own reservations system nations have sunned on Yalta's No experience required shores for years To Americans howe airline res training in KZ° ever the city is known primarily as agency training in Hawaii the site of the Yalta Conference of Included for all participants some restrictions 1945 attended by the Soviet Union's FREE SEMINAR Josef Stalin Britain's Winston ChurBEST WESTERN EXECUTIVE INN chill and America's Franklin D Roo280 W 7200 South Midvale sevelt just before the close of World Tuesday October 16 7 PM War 0 The conference's plenary meetThe Hcdna Groups ings were held at Livadia Palace where Roosevelt stayed Visitors can see the room where the three Allied leaders held their meetings as well as r the anteroom where Roosevelt and about the Stalin talked future of Europe Churchill stayed at Alupka Palace T about 10 miles west of town The palace now a fine arts museum was designed in Oriental style by Edward Blore architect of Buckingham Palace It is an unusual building with both a Tudor tower and a Moorish one and an Arabic facade above its Terrace of Lions Some rooms have false doors and the original parquet floor is superb Sergei Rachmaninoff once played e the piano in the reception room and Feodor Chaliapin sang there Churchill when he came upon 'VH "CRUISING IS the statue of a recumbent lion on the terrace declared "It's me without my cigar" Another spectacular case i tle is the Swallow's Nest perched atop a seaside cliff c9 On the other side of Yalta is the '? 1 Massandra winery which makes a variety of table wines but is known worldwide for its fortified wines We IS YOUR found its red wine and champagne BEST quite satisfactory but the white left VALUE to IN desired be something We did enjoy however the folkCRUISING!" loric luncheon at which we sampled these wines Dozens of costumed -- Kathie Lee Gifford performers gave a stirring and whirling rendition of native songs and dances for visitors from our Carnival's "Fun Ships: 1: cruise ship the Crown Princess ' '07 are world famous for Famous Russian writers also came to Yalta (and who wouldn't with a Irl4 VSki 1 packing more value climate comparable to the French ! a into vacation than Riviera?) among them Gorky Push":': kin and Anton Chekhov The latter anyone Because all wrote his most famous play "The the "extras" are t!'':': 1 1' Cherry Orchard" here in a pleasant -Adalready taken 1 -house with shaded garden paths It lit ‘'i 1 for care of one was closed the day we visited but in 1i the new spirit of glasnost we unlow price In fact locked the gate ourselves and wanyou'll save hundreds ' dered around the gardens anyway i 101 of dollars compared The czars the authors and the warto a land vacaton time leaders are long gone from Yalta only framed photographs and yelAnd no land resort lowing documents to remind you of offers as many relax- their day in the Crimean sun And in Odessa the effects of Communist oping and entertaining German atrocities wartime choices as Carnival pression and bureaucratic intransigence still Relax in the tropical sun weigh upon its citizens out in the Nautica Spa or work But with glasnost and perestroika Join in a variety of activities gaining momentum these two seaside cities may yet regain their former glory “' 1 - 1 Ilf: I n enc 1 fil r ' t 1 116v : : Fla) : : Z4: I tjZE I 1 I' "ell em- -- - –do ttLajd t -- v Qualify )0 - - fA i 4 ''' A P Pi - ' - A O - g -i y s TROPICAL SCENERY (COCONUT AND DATE PALMS BANANA GROVES & MUCH MORE) AN EARLY 16TH CENTURY WALLED CITY WITH ITS GUN TURRETS AND CANNONS TO PROTECT AGAINST SACKING PIRATES I 1 A 278-106- 0 I Ga dekE1301 Wing ' Partner140001 --- 1 Fil ri":74 r Irden i 4 ' 41 - 14 o ''tt-- - V - - - - AND CARIBBEAN OCEANS WHITE SAND BEACHES NO MORE WALKING THAN YOU WISH CHARTED BUS WITH US CONSTANTLY EXCELLENT FOOD AND WATER o :t11 On 10 - '5' SENArott 1 fAET e) - 0 ATLANTIC 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