| Show 2T The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday September 3 1989 a New Mexico's ld Turquoise Continued from T I Cern llos Stars on location locals and visitors congregate at the where owner Mitch Mitchell a retired high school principal presides over a cluttered assemblage of everything from Zuni fetishes to almost antiques Where Cerrillos scarcely has a foothold in the 20Ih century Madrid (local pronunciation accents the first syllable) is bent on making a name I or itself Some have called it the jazz and bluegrass capital of New Mexico but resident Terry Conrad long-timsays "That's going a little too far" Bluegrass concerts are held twice a summer but the biggest events are the New Mexico Jazz Workshop concerts in its 14th season The venue for both bluegrass and jazz is the ball park north of town western town needs Every two-bi- t its bad guys and good guys: in Madrid a town of 350 the two sides meet at the Old Coal Mine Museum for melodrama presented by the Engine House Players "We're so small that we don't have any town ordinances" says Barbara Marigold fingering one of her mammoth turquoise rings "In fact we don't have a town government" Marigold runs the Tapestry Gallery where two weavers work on looms set up in the airy boutique and Cerrillos turquoise fills the cases: women from Santo Domingo Pueblo fashion slab earrings for $15 Ronald Chavez makes chunky necklaces for What-NotSho- p e $550 this former town was down to one family and headed toward extinction Then in 1975 the company sold off the land and Madrid began to revive "I've lived here 12 years" says artist Joni Conrad "It's a young pop" ulation and very Conrad owns Madrid Earthenware bouPottery one of a tiques that compete with the finest in Santa Fe She digs her red clay from nearby mesas and sells to 20 outlets throughout the nation (dinner service for eight $450) Next door is the Country Store where customers can sit on swivel stools at the soda fountain and order $150 egg creme sodas made from scratch More substantial fare is found at Swiss Bliss The Clay People and Mine Shaft Tavern Some 30 years ago company-owne- coal-minin- g d family-oriented- half-doze- n ' ' Farther south past Golden where 1 1825 prospectors dug for gold in the pinkish soil Pete's continues its 25- - ' year tradition of serving first-rat- e New Mexican food "The 'half Breed' made our business" says owner Pricilla Jojola referring to the $995 special: rib eye steak cheese enchilada green chili enchilada potatoes and sopapilla A turn-of- f at NM 536 heads west to the Sandia Mountains Turn left after one mile down Tejano Canyon to find Lois Johnston's Pine Cone Inn B&B vary Rates at this antique-fille- d from $65 to $85 Highway 536 continues past Tinkertown an elaborate wood-carve- 't - ' - ''7:‘ 71':F- ''' 1! : ?': fY f ' ' through a stretch of the spruce and fir of Cibola National Forest and dead ends at the 10678-foo- t Sandia Crest where views and hiking trails are unlimited Bighorn sheep and mule deer are often spotted mountain lions and coyotes are more elusive Back on the Trail last stop is the unpretentious trailer that's home of Aunt Bea's Soda and Bake Shop at Cedar Crest "We're a gourmet product with prices" says Aunt Bea who supplies cinnamon rolls and other gooey treats to restaurants throughout the region The drive is nicely complemented with a stop in Albuquerque's Old Town which has as much authenticity and perhaps more charm than Santa Fe's crowded plaza Downtown lunch or dinner choices abounding in authentic southwest atmosphere are Maria Teresa and High noon adds anThe return drive on other dimension to the day's look into New Mexico's past The Santo Domingo Pueblo Exit leads to the 1881 Santo Domingo Trading Post Trader Fred Thompson owner for the past four decades still putters around the store selling turquoise rugs pottery and a wealth of western memorabilia Travelers who fly into Albuquerque and then drive to Santa Fe can take the Turquoise Trail north beginning at Interstate 40 (Exit 175) a few miles east of Albuquerque Heading south from Santa Fe the Turquoise Trail (Highway 14) begins on Cerrillos Road in Santa Fe or Exit 278A five miles from south of Santa Fe For a brochure and map write Turquoise Trail Association PO Box 693 Albuquerque NM 87103 Susan Kaye lives in Rancho Santa Fe Ca '' '' - ir ! i' ' i' t!" :':q i 1A 4 Ili t l' i 1 il i!! 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It takes some getting used to for anyone attuned to masses of greenery and ocean beaches: its subtle This whole Southwestern state is done up in shades of tan The land seems bigger more dominating than anywhere else It's odd that something so monochromatic can be so compelling Only later under a sky that's impossibly blue do newcomers' eyes begin to see the incredible colors in rust pink golden this brown gray its not just after all The mountain passes the high plains and the mesas that crop up hundreds of feet above it the cracked arroyos cut through dusty' hillsides are all grand sights and the perfect place for a posse to come pounding around a sandstone boulder chasing a band of whooping redskins as cameras roll I got the feeling that in French acquaintallet'S Vert' a bit leery of the Indians they !w in the city even if the warriors were wearing jeans and plaid shirts not feathers and leather and were riding pickup trucks not near-deser- sand-colore- d Iorses Indians live in every state but Hahut mostly in tucked-iay places ‘k here they interact mainly ‘ Oh each other They are not part of But in our ceryday experience Ns Mexico these people ho ore here thousands of years before ve Intel topers showed up are everywhere vvork in facThey 11111 tories spread their kart's 10) Sall on shaded sidekalks in historic sections of cities run a culim al center display their high quality crafts in the hest stores and velcione visitors tin hi theft tuition' virying il&grti communities 'I here arc about 100000 Indians they d rathcr be called Native Americans — ill hhii hic stale with a population of I 5 million Most belong to tolit' of the 19 pueblo tribes so ho named by Spanish explorers ere renunded of home by the tribal communities' multistory Ipartment housclike dwelbno out central pla zas and called them hivt te puebloso who lie II stern Nt'W ltaapis and in An1)11a anti at the Nitxtco lutist artistic of the lot al c not among the pueblo ti his the pueblo Indians ha e trained to promote theinsch vs The hig Indian Pueblo CUIttiral Center III Al waii 4 tural steel space to shops than to its museum Sun-Sentin- "It's a purely-for-prof- By the as one tour guide put it At the Acoma pueblo west of the city admission is $5 another $4 to take a camera along on the tour of the dusty old village prices that are typical of the pueblos At some you must pay people before photographing them The tribes don't let historic authenticity get in the way of a saleable product In 1966 Helen Coder° a Cochiti Indian got tired oE making clay pots and remembered how the children gathered around her grandmother as the old woman spun tales She began to make a seated adult figure (mouth open) with kids on her lap and clinging to her arms These clever clay storyteller dolls are now sold in gift shops all over the state made not only by the Cochitis but by nearly all the pueblo tribes Some of their hottest-sellinpottery and jewelry follows no ancient pattern but is adapted to what the market wants The Zuni tribe's famous overlay silverwork was rarely done until the craft was spread through GI Bill classes after World War II the Navajos make some of the best kachina dolls (representing spirit figures) although the kachina carvings have nothing to do with Navajo culture So it goes Some visitors are put off by the commercialism of what they call -professional Indians" They smirk when the emcee at the Cultural Center show turns out to be a Kiowa from Oklahoma Ile sings pueblo Zuni songs But look at the land: its a hard place to make a living as a farmer And these 13dians have enough trouble as it is trying to hang onto their heritage s'elttered and battered by SpalLi 1 e pansionists hostile Apaches Navajos from southern Canada Comanches from Texas and United States government stupidity they have learned to survive For visitors intrigued by the Indian presence as the French group (anti I( were first stop should be the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center Pass up its shops and restaurant for the moment and spend $2 50 to tour the museum Each of the 19 tribes has its own display and their history — oral — relates tales retold for that they had common ancestors the h century most p fast-sellin- the New World With glass windows instead of the isinglass originals many are still in use A new coat of clay is slapped on annually Remember that when you call St Augustine Fla "the oldest city" It will remind you to add the qualifier "founded by Europeans" Anissa Vallo was our tour guide The young Acoma woman wearing told us a lot about jeans and Indian lifestyle She led us through the dusty village — visitors can't wander around it alone — to show us adobe houses and apartment buildings built in the 16th century Valk) pointed out the ceremonial kiva where the men gather to make the decisions "The only time women can enter the hogan is when it's time to clean it" she said But the women have power "All property is handed down to the youngest daughter" she said "because it's usually the youngest daughter who takes care of the old parents "Women own all the property" She doesn't live on the mesa About 13 families remain there in- cluding Vallo's grandmother "They're mostly older people" she said She lives in a town several miles houst north where modern ing is provided by the government low-ren- "We all come up here for ceremonial days" she said The tribe's blend of Catholic faith and tribal religion produces both harvest dances and Easter celebrations (Most pueblos practice both religions a saint often has a place of honor at the Green Corn dance) Val lo a high school graduate knows her tribe's history for tour guide purposes but she knows only a few words of her own language Kereshan There is no electric service or running water up on the mesa But there are TV antennae (generators she explained) There are propane stoves for cooking Cisterns collect rainwa- ter Our village ramble often halted as we looked at the light thin-walle- d pottery an Aeoma specialty spread for sale We bought warm fry bread ($1 a slab) poured honey on it and munched it as we walked Dripping with lard it's mostly flour puffed up in the deep-frprocess (less greasy fry bread adaptations are popular party snacks down in the city) The Spanish visited the mesa in 1540 Val lo told us Francisco Vasquez de Coronado's army was looking for the seven cities of gold "We were one of the seven but we had no gold" (Nor did the other six) Spanish missionaries followed and in 1629 built San Estaban de Acoma Mission largest of the early Southwestern mission churches still in use Inside its thick old adobe walls it's very cool We didn't want to return to the sunny day outside On our way back to Albuquerque we passed the Laguna reservation They are richer than the Acornas "Uranium mines" explained our bus-tou- guide Marska Adams r "They collect royalties" Many work in cities they run a shopping mall and a nursing home Like the Acomas few Lagunas live in the old pueblo Inside plumbing and electricity have their converts For travelers with more time a visit to the Taos pueblo is recomapartmemended This nt-style place among the oldest surviving adobe complexes is a World Heritage Site outside the town of Taos 130 miles northeast of Albuquerque And here's some advice: When you visit New Mexico take money You'll want to rip up your clothes throw away your jewelry and trash your home decor when you see the Southwest look created mostly by artistic Indians It's as expensive as it is striking and like these Indians memorable ld Neglect vandals and guerrillas threaten Cambodia's temples By Adam Tanner Reuter News Agency ANGKOR Cambodia — Deep inside the jungle troops with automatic rifles patrol a xast complex of ancient Cambodian temples one of the world's great monuments Angkor has suffered years of neglect and vandalism and in the months ahead war may also threaten its magnificent temples built between the 9th and 13th centuries is the main target of our "Angkor - Defense Minister Tie Banh enemysaid "They v ill try very hard to occupy that placeUnimportant militarily Angkor is the symbol of Cambodia Its loss to One of the three guerrilla groups the Vietnamese-installegovernment in Phnom Penh would be a huge psychological defeat Tie Banh expects the Khmer Rouge and other resistance groups to step up attacks after Vit inamese troops vithdraw from Cambodia Sept 26 Last week the List Khmer Rougv rocket attack in at least a year fell harinlessl into an tintity field But it set ed as au iut'r i possibit disaster Await Despite Cambodia's uncertain fu bat-thu- Atiasai f orev- er' the proven part of forever is about 12000 years In those days they say it v as wetter and cooler and they hunted mammoths They beliw their anuestors lived in Chaco Can on in remote nortimesterti evs Niex leo abandoned a millennium wo obablv due to drought At 'tkico Pin ido Bonito s huge 600is ri)ifill adobe apartment house the htliest Ntligle structure in the Nce Woi Id until 1898 Alien struc - t 1 1 !&r' mid-14t- p g They have been in this land was developed pueblo Indians had drifted into the basins of the Little Colorado and Rio Grande rivers They are still there so most of the tribes are within day-tridistance of Albuquerque a Rio Grande city The center has free shows at 11 am and 4 pm every Saturday and Sunday with dancers drummers and singers from one of the pueblo tribes performing ceremonial shows full of hypnotic chants and steady drumming Then head out to see a pueblo (village) on the Acoma pueblo tribe's mesa 367 feet above the high plain you can see forever: mountains to the north and south and plains dotted with other high mesa outcroppings that sweep west to Grants and east to Albuquerque 55 miles away on Interstate 40 — the old Route 66 There is one solitary scrawny cottonwood tree growing on this e mesa-tothat is "the city in the sky the oldest continually inhabited cornmunity in North America" Acoma dates back to about 1150 archaeologists believe The Acomas oral history agrees Some of the adobe homes and "apartment houses" here were built soon after Columbus spotted operation" it Jean Allen - g hue more tourtsts are expected in August than in any month since the early 1970s prompting hopes that the rums will spark future prosperity of temdraw a few hundred visitors on day trts each month according to local tourism director Ilao Sotha "Since we opened to tourism until the present time security has been just fule' said Leng Vy governor of Angkor's surrounding Stem Reap province The occasional shots and rumble of mortar fire heard in the area were nothing more than soldiers hunting birds or testing weapons he said If combat was not a danger in August other things IA ere A correspondent who entered the iarely-visitePreah Khan temple htnpped tbruptly Police had to foi enemy troops defuse a iniat first One hutiu ii lv Ay Cambodian police inan aimed with AK-4automatic rifle patrol 1'Ith century Angkor Vat Ilk mple com!igloo S ples reopened plex ina' e miles in 1987 now s 71 iBit onl) against the Khmer Rouge and other insurgents but also against thieves who plunder sculptures from the temple Hundreds of years of theft combined with deliberate destruction during Khmer Rouge rule from 1975-7have decapitated almost all the thousands of Hindu and Buddhist statues at Angkor "I am deeply sorry that at Angkor Vat the great heritage of Cambodia is disappearing step by everything monk step- Prin 'rim a said inside the temple where he had gone to pray Most thieves work under duress for rebel groups who smuggle the sculptures to Thailand said Son Sin chief prosecutor at Siem Reap the provincial capital " I was cultivating rice in the field and Khmer Rouge soldiers came to me and instructed me to bring them a Buddha statue- - said Sim sentence Chap serving a four-yea- r for the theft in Siem Reap "They forced nu by pointing a gun at me The Jungle that hid Angkor for centuries until it A'il:) rediscovered in 1860 is still a menace Almost all of the 12th century Ta Prohm temple richly-decorate- d 9 r S has been invaded by tall trees vines and bushes Bats snakes and other jungle creatures infest the ruins Lack of money keeps Cambodia from caring properly for its treasured temples according to Angkor curator tiong Von but the $120 fee collected from foreign tourists does not go to the restoration effort For several years Indian archeologists helped to restore Angkor Wat but cracking cement in their repairs has been cited as evidence of shoddy WV rkmanship Later this year a Polish tear” will begin an estimated six years o v Jrk at Bayon Angkor's second most famous temple from which 144 hauntingly serene faces of a deity survey all around Some tourists said they had hurried to Angkor to be sure of seeing the temples in case the Cambodian conflict intensifies Its a nity to visit Angkor body knows what v Septemln i when army lea es- said opportu- considering no ill happen after the Vietnamese Scott Blaker an American mcdical student oil summer vacation |
