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Show DISCOVER AMERICA u tween Denver and Aspen chosen; the results looked promising, and more partners were . brought in. Skiing facilities opened in December, 1962, and the next summer a gondola ride up the mountain was installed, a drugstore opened, and 25 private houses were built Since then, Vail has blossomed as a picturesque village with all the trappings of the Alps. some fervent partisans -- ''of the good ski life used to post, signs that said, "Help Stamp Out Summer," most have now begun to discover summer as a season with, its own pleasures. The brooks run swiftly under the pines and blue spruced. Asters, daisies,- and red fireweed sprout At the riverbanka. A rolling green golf course, a sight once horrifying to the ski people, is getting its finishing touches along the valley floor. If the wooded glens are full of e homes of the rich, the there are now as well all sorts of places to stay for those with only the price of a room to let A roost with a suitably Alpine ... name of Gasthof Gramahammer, ' run by an Austrian ski champion ... - and his Gypsy wife, has double rooms for f 13 and weiner schnitzel ;" steaming in the kitchen. The Chris-- .. tiana, which looks as if it had been plucked bodily from the Tyrol, has rooms for $19 in summer, complete with free Continental breakfast ; And for all hands, there is al air tiie conditioning of the ways mountains, fish that wait in the streams, horses that wait to be un-- 7 tethered, the golf course that waits Vto be tried, and the mountains that wait to oe conquered, eitner tin we 1 -r .litekM. - show-plac- . , . ' in the comfort of the AV- a. .cajble cars. fuU ter. New drleans l its deal- of commerce and busy ; ings With nighboringiitin Amef- t re-k-vA : ' C ' Urge. But the That is a FjeQnarterraht pUyfftound in the big city ) : ing, and U jau. French Quarter is founded on the French table, and it has French ways. But there ar . heavy accents of Spain, American Indian, African, and what may be called plain you all. What comes out mode of cooking y Is a highly refined v rfowthe Pom-pan- .. ready-mad- deep-frie- d, ' " . fill --- "life. , blue-taile- - I sayJJew'. Now Orleans Wl Orleans, I mean the, Frlch Quarv ica and tiwworld the sailboaters go ashore in dinmangrove - cuckoos, bobcats, pig ghies bringing their picnic Junch. frogs, and purple gallinules. I delight in strolling the unkempt Once, some years ago, I sailed up a lonely mangrove creek in an Auport of Playa de Fajardo, where e one can pick up a lunch of dubon Society boat that emerged at last into a lake. There in the sandwiches, frozen lobsters, and pies filled with the sweetness warmth of Florida was an island of local pineapple 'and watch the covered, it seemed, with a blanket so white it could have been 'snow. boats chug out forf the neighborAudubon guide told the . The ing island of Vieques and farther into the sea to St Thomas. story. A plume hunter had followed a floating feather, down the same In other times ' I have journeyed , stream we had come and found the in the other direction to the tiny town of Dorado with its splendid rookery of the' egrets, now white resorts strung along the beach. I in their plumage. To him it was a have rented a house and shopped treasure, and after killing as many in the supermarkets, coming home birds as he could, he made his way to Jacksonville with his booty and with pastellilos, which are turnovers filled with meat or cheese his story. Soon the lake was so busy with plume hunters, they were and huge waiting to be shooting each other for the right plantains, a form of green banana quarter are small maisonettes0 to shoot the birds. which can be boiled or sliced and rather handsome rooming houses In the early 1900s lawmakers fifried like chips. with patios and gr illework and On sumptuous occasion I have nally made plume hunting, or even comfortable rooms that begin at selling or importing plumage, illestayed in Rockefeller's lovely Doabout $19 a night for two. rado Beach Hotel, golfed on a gal. It took until 1947 for the naAt night the Quarter comes alive to set aside its one great troption like like a carnival. Carts shaped ical tract as a national park, a park hot dogs cruise the streets peddling unlike any other. weiners and hot tamales. Music Lately this great swamp has been halls, some of them with their own having water problems. The park New Orleans-styl- e patios, dispense I w I has been drying up, threatening an endless line of performers. this last refuge of odd birds and But quaintest of all are the last unusual . plants. Fortunately the two refuges of New Orleans jazi rain fell heavily last summer, and Dixieland Hall and Preservation last winter the Corps of Engineers Hall. Here the dwindling group of found a way to bring more water great musicians hold forth nightly into the Glades. This summer all in informal sessions. the alligators and gallinules, fiddler Twice each year, spring and fall. d crabs and skinks ought the Vieux Carre Property Owners .. to in be finest fettle and feather.. .'V.; iron and Associates fling open their , Probably the best place for J a Old and new contrast in Puerto Rico grille portals to the public, who can family is the center at Flamingo; wander the candlelit patios, stroll at the very bottom of the ' park. the old brick' walks, and poke into Here is a prime .vacationland course that was once a grapefruit boats in whjch to. explore the manplantation, and breakfasted on squeezed pineapple juice and coffee grove streams and the, lakes, campgrounds with all the comforts of ground and brewed at the table. And then again I have come by the outdoor hoeis 'life, parking ' y rtlanosi fnv ttVSiTlAi an1 4tw tisA vvw. 4mwwa ft rtiA fairvtMaaii kt A Caiil four walls and a roof, a i'c Juan; whsre the showi have splca- .fwhoiike : mntel nn ran IrMn.hMil tori did "viAr serve . i j find or in shelter cottage ' hue 4 'JTi r?private V""' one of the rooms. perfume the pAMtsh'eoloniaa ..ai If you've never seen lOPQOwbi Sarjuan. and the re mains of Poce de. Leon still reiDis come in to roost i Cathedral. pose l.aea. light don't miss th-'In abjoct luxury I have reclined, Puerto Ricot WV. started wanon special occasion, Jn the great " dering the gJot& and writing about hotoVs'alonrthe stripln San Juan my first' journalistic expedition took me to San Juan, in those days hosted by the Hiltona or the Sheratons or the Condado Beach, built an overnight trip in a rocky DC-back "The were hotels so in 1919 for cruise-shi- p few ' and were Brennan's restaurant, New Orleans pas now to "tTieouristsrThCidea of flyin overhauled sengrs and, down in summer wa unthinkable, atch the modern day.' In near Bohemia I have put up .My attachments to Puerto' Rico rooms, of those Americans who still are sentimental, and my feeling is live the good old days inside 'the jX the guethouaes which now honA ; warm. I have gone back year after eycomb the city, some of them at French Quarter. You can live it, the brink of the beach. Nor. have it summer. year, watching this too, grow," always I mentioned the great sand exnew all In Florida! finding pleasures. A Pork, Ivorglodos I count among them going down America there is no place quite panses at Luquillo Beach,' all but to the fishing village of Las Croabaa overlooked by tourists, or the green like the Everglades. The most and dickering, with the barefoot mystery of El Yunque, the rain southerly place in the United States forest where the ferns grow aa high skippers for a sailboat trip to the except for Florida's Keys, the as an elephant's eye and the vines" Glades are the last refuge for the tiny islands offshore. Particularly, there is the sandy shoal called Cayo hang from the tree waiting for strange birds which once adorned some Tartan to swing among them Icacos, where the beach is framed ladies' hatst for raccoons and alliin search of Jane. with sea grape and palmetto and gators, for roseate spoonbills, for snails in butter, trout in wine, o Toulouse? In the unhurried style of the Old South, breakfast is served until, midnight'; When dining at Antoine's, one must do' battle with a wine list the size of a billboard, commence with oysters Rockefeller, which Antoine's invented, forage among the gumbos, the turtle stews, and stuffed flounders. Between meals, one can collapse in one's chambers, and there are plenty of them for lease inside the Quarter itself. The Royal Orleans is a stunning new hotel which sits on the site of the old St Louis, which was the social center of the city in the last century. Stuffed away in small alleys around the -- called Creole. The names of the temples prac-ticithis gastronomy are legion. To follow the accepted pattern one should have dinner at Antoine's and breakfast' at Brennan's. Of course, Brennan's idea of breakfast might not exactly be your idea of ham and eggs, but oh, the joy! Where else can one find such morning suggestions as breakfast steak with Baarnaise sauce or ng ,1 1 itloandmetimes ."'t"5i ed ; i it 4. -- '': . . Femiiy Witkly, April U, 1$S$ |
