Show W WAVE VE NEW OF NEW FASHIONS IS HERE Prices Are Higher an and Goods Goode I Rich RiC A Amazing Amazing Prosperity Is Credited With Causing Epoch p h Making Change in ill Styles Stripes and Colored Metal Tissue Will Be Exploited NEW YORK YORI Feb 26 The The rapid changing from winter to to summer h hat hats ils s' s took ook place this month The whole idea I L is j absurd and preposterous but what is the tho use use of f argument The moment that the shops reduced their winter hats to 5 and less which i was as done around the second week in lil January the cry went up for something some some- I thing tiling new and the women got it There never was a time time when commerce com corn muse m merce was so dull that it if did not notta ta take tae 0 quick advantage of this wish for for something new That is the rea- rea sort that the shops offer as many fasho fash- fash o ons s at once as women can afford regardless re of the s season ason It is not their tI ir place to ask ash the reason why why why- itis its their pl place ce to supply Nothing r pleases commerce mor morth more morg th than n to have women change their mft ds every two weeks if possible This season it has tickled the palate with a greater variety of new clothes than we have had bad in a d decade cade and behind it all there were written two r sentences in large capital letters American prosperity French need Cargoes of clothes have been easy or of shipment nt during the last t ten n months and France has bas been spinning spinning spin spin- spin ning out new things as fast as the wheels would go around There has ever lever been a time probably in the of Fifth avenue Sixth avenue avenue avenue ave- ave nue nue and the adjacent side streets when the demands for women's apparel ap- ap par parel l have been so insistent and the prices so consistently high l It If is no trick of the imagination to think that New York has more people peo peo- eople eo- eo pie in it than ever before It is is a fact And all of these people are in Gotham Gollam to spend money The hotels have been so full for five months that an association has been formed to provide places for everyone One hot hotel l alone had a floating population for fop the month of people When the first cold snap of the winter came an ai al immense municipal lodging house which is established to care for the unemployed did not have a single ap applicant applicant applicant ap- ap whereas at the same time ap last year when women were not buying buying buying buy buy- ing clothes those makers of apparel who were unemployed had to seek aid of this charity chanty I H If is only natural that in New York one should the see greatest evidences I of prosperity not because there is j I prosperity in New York alone but in I merica America When the average American has bas any money above his or her necessities necessities ne ne- ne the first idea is to take a trip to New York to see what Is new I and if possible to buy it New York therefore and its fashionable shopping shop I ping area is an index of the financial financial financial finan finan- cial condition of women over the entire entire en en- tire continent between the oceans Supply Supplying ng Prosperity's Demands JB You see how admirably the the two conditions dovetailed Paris Pans which needed the money sorely for a thousand thousand thousand thou thou- sand things was asked to rack its inventive brain to meet the pouring out of money tin On this side of the ocean Everybody was benefited That is the I blessed thing about dealing in wom worn p ens en's apparel The dollars go down e t b down lown down through ugh every channel of sartorial industry None so poor but they benefit by women's spending jg Therefore with money on this side of of the ocean with the demand for form I m money ney on the other side of the ocean with new clothes created every month over there and hundreds of clothes made over here to keep things going with the shipments across the ocean G comparatively easy we have been i b continually in a whirlwind for ten months The shop windows in the great cities re re the best indications of the constant constant constant con con- I stant changes taking t place lace and therefore therefore there there- I fore it is to be wondered what there there-I next month will bring forth in the way sav i I of new fashions I L RUFFLED TRIMMING I I j Afi 1 r ve- ve ves s J I 4 i l 0 11 i i I I t- t i ii 4 jre I y I. I I r 1 l' l f 1 h Evening Evering frock of cerise taffeta with unusual trimming of narrow narrow ruffles of of o sliver silver lace While waiting for the changes changes langeS to I come the milliners have flooded flooded the country with straw hats hat's and and wom women n. n have gladly accepted them The milliners milliners milliners mil mil- liners are always ahead of makers but there is n no rivalry rivalry- there is really the most g genial nial cooperation co co- co- co operation It is not possible for France to decide decide de de- de cide overnight what t semiannual fashions fashions fash lash ions it intends to exploit None of ofus ofus ofus us who go from house to house ing mg these semiannual openings can fail to discover strong evidences of collusion Each great house certainly has its it individual way of producing the general fashion and in in this trick lies the appeal to the American buyer However each house d dries es not set itself up as an arbiter of a new silhouette if It did this there would be dire confusion No one would know h w to dress there would be a heterogeneous collection collection collection col col- lection of marked styles and we should see a great mass of women reflecting reflecting re re- re- re fleeting fifteen or twenty periods of dress This condition is devoutly wished by the artists who have always always always al al- al- al ways considered that women have dressed too uniformly but there does not seem to be any any indication throughout through through- out the ages that the French designers design design- ers care to exploit a vast variety of fashions at one time Louis Phillippe Dominates Hats We Ve knew in November that the Louis Phillippe hat then introduced in New York would be- be bea a New Year feature in millinery It came with the first straw it has been worn for fora a month and one might say that it has dominated the early season Whether ther or not it will continue to do doso doso doso so is s not an easy guess but there Is no doubt of its Ms popularity because it is becoming to a vast majority majori y of faces The dominating feature of this hat is the upstanding frill or frills that start at the head and mount upward These are made of ribbon of satin of lace straw and of wired Jace lace Black lace is one of the strong cards which the milliners are playing this year and It is so widely used for trimming that a great deal of straw has been made in imitation The SMART HAT of straw woven woven in blue blu and white checks Blue quill I 1 j h t I r 5 r. r I x t I It I S 'S 4 I lD IL t f o. o 1 00 t 1 I 1 l r. r 0 I J. J fact of the becomingness of a black lace broad brimmed hat is never beyond be yond dispute Those who are good judges of such things say th that t irregular lar shadows thrown over the face are always objectionable but women have shown how little they care for this opinion by by constantly wearing earing veils which have large and irregular patterns patterns patterns patterns' pat pat- terns terns' worked on the surface The Louis Phillippe hat is high but not atrociously so It has no ambition ambition ambi ambi- tion to emulate the Eiffel tower and its irregular surface which is broken by one or r more pleated frills tends to decrease the appearance of height The original Louis Phillippe model which launched the fashion had a a pompon of small colored ostrich tips u used ed at the side but the majority of imitations imitation omit this touch Flounces Flounces Flounces' of Glistening Straw The novelty touch that the majority of women will most quickly notice this season is the use of glistening straw made into roses flowers and andl l leaves aves of different kinds A black hat of soft straw for instance will be ornamented with an irregular wreath of pink roses made of straw and almost almost almost al al- al- al most against the surface of the hat The leaves and tendrils will be of pale green straw On another hat of black straw which had a high wide crown and a tiny rolling brim there was an immense drum major ornament made out of dark blue straw Colored as well as black straw is used for bands and bows instead of ribbon In fact this idea Is already so so overworked that It Is probable that we shall be tired of it before spring comes All these these novelties novelties are quickly run to ground especially when they start so early in the season There are n fl great many black straws in evidence and there are also colored ones Satin is again used In combination with fine Milan straw and enormous sprays of feathers feathers feath feath- ers are used across the theba ba back k or side of a hat The milliners I say that this revived fas fashion ion for oua j was brought about by the hats chosen by by Mrs Wilson for her t trousseau ous eau Maybe so but Paris set the fashion fashIon fash fash- Ion for tor these hats two to months ago and Paris did not know what kind kin of hats Mrs Wilson had bought However How How- HOW over ever the Ule While House has rarely i if ever established or dr r attempted to establish establish establish lish a fashion so let us do the best bes best we can with any straw that blows blow from that direction In this the American White House shares the same lack of distinction with wHir the courts of Europe No queens sin since e Mario Antoinette and the Empress Eugenie Eugenie Eu genie have set a fashion and to Judge from their public appearances appearance and their heir photographs one would consider con sider that they only follow them from froma a afar Serge and Silk Mingled A woman woman who bought a gown In Paris Pans last spring which had a wide striped skirt of heavy silk and a short little jacket of sober black satin has found herself quite out of the running running running run run- ning until now She has resurrected it and feels like putting the Ule tag 1916 on It for some of the new gowns gown l France rance is sending over are built o othis on this model One of the best has a full skirt of blue and brown striped stripe silk which is topped by a blue serge serg Jacket open in front to show a vest o of white muslin This mingling of striped silk an and plain blue serge promises to be a popular feature for the spring A handful of straws points to the fact fac that we will wear skirts and jackets Jacket of different fabrics on the street an anthe and the favorite choice for the skirt will be striped or or checked heavy silk The stripes mind you run around th the figure more often than they do u up and down This same idea is followed out i in evening gowns gown'S for skirts and bodices bodice d do not match in material even if the thedo they do in color All winter we have wor worthe worn worn- the bodices of gauze and now it i is supplanted by bodices of silk heavily heavily heave ily embroidered In silver There are piece one-piece frocks to be b worn on the street either in the morning morning morn morn morn- ing or the afternoon that also show the fashion for the mingling of tw two materials A blue faille skirt with 0 a bodice of gabardine is used for one o othe of the new models for one piece one piece frocks It takes one back to the races i in Paris Pans nearly two years ago when th the first tight little bodice of gabardine and a flaring striped skirt were vere worn by that celebrated beauty Mlle Mile For For- zane zaue the model has evidently lai lain fallow in the brains of the designers designer and has been brought out again fo for forthe forthe the spring i In its present form it gains a touch touch of novelty by being made of two ma rna materials that are in sharper contrast contras than the materials used two years years' ago Corded Metal Tissues for fOI for Evening After Doucet launched launched- l. he his his' remarkably remark ably lovely lovelY- evening frock of silve silver tissue last November- November America tool took hold of the idea and arid exploited it n bu butt but few women would wear the gown Probably they were vere afraid fraid of the tle reputation rep that silver tissue has of tarnishing tarnishing tar tar- and turning black when lef lefto left left- to to Itself And nd yet et after this go gown was was launched women women took tool Ji hold ld o othe of the idea of wearing colored metal ineta cloth frocks The production of this material was wasa vas vasa a triumph of the looms and of the master weavers It was foisted upon the public without much heralding and it became became easily the foremost fabric of of the month Happily it has lIas no not been dyed lived in brilliant colors colora it has hasben b ben been en gullIed guided by an artistic herd bend into pal Ealo ruse rose pink mauve a peculiarly lovely lively shade of sky blue 0 Entire frocks have been made malle o othis of this fabric the saving grace being lg that the skirts are very short anc and the bodices slim and low Where trimming is demanded it is supplied by silk net in the s same me color bu bunow but now and then one sees such a gown too ornately touched up with crystals If the idea of an entire gown o of rose or mauve metal tissue does no not appeal to a woman at least she may care to know that the fabric is in fashion in order to make use of i ion it iton iton on another gown A A. bodice of mauve colored metal tissue goes very well wel with a skirt of mauve colored tulle or even one of white and a simpler adjustment of the fabric is is to is-to to use I it as a deep girdle on any kind of silk net dance gown or as a deep hem on ona ona ona a l lower skirt of tulle or chiffon Of course the milliners are using it for hats They drape this colored colore tissue Into high turbans and leave them untrimmed except for a spray or aigrette of feathers The shoe men who have flooded the country with slippers of silver tissue will eagerly grasp the opportunity to use the new fabric So far all our colored slippers have been of satin Women want a change |