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Show Utility, Style andComfort Are the Essentials Which Must Be Taken Into Consideration in Selecting Garments The Needs of a Woman Who Works at a Desk Instead of in a House Are Discussed by an Expert By Edith M. Bwrtis nounced, both as to cut and color, end In the matter ef trimming the Chinese embroidery U being employed vn on blouMi that ar not cut or developed ra the lines. Lon(, very lone . blouse showing prim favorite, generally and always welcomed anew whea faahioa aflUaa bar tamp of approval. ' Then, too, thlt etyla baa a (treng eee-aomlcal eee-aomlcal appeal that of pleating change for the aeparate skirt, which may be either of allk or velvet, can be utilised aa a foundation for two or more bloiuea ef different material) and different trimming. trim-ming. No need to expound on the virtues and value of the one-piece tailored droit of cloth, for aurely all of you understand and appreciate the Inevitable poeltion ' this type of dreaa holds by virtue of Its The Needs of a Woman Who Utility, Style andGomfort Are Works at a Desk Instead the Essentials Which Must j of in a House Are Discussed J Be Taken Into Consideration by an Expert s in Selecting Garments By Edith M. Bwrtis . i I prims favorite, generally and always Bounced, both as to cut snd color, and k ' - i welcomed anew whea faahioa affixes bar In the matter ef trimming the Chinee y stamp of approval. ' embroidery la being employed even on I Then, too, this etyl baa a strong see- blouses that are not cut or developed oa ' I aomlcal appeal that of pleating change thee lines. jS , '. ' foe the separate skirt, which msy lif. vry long, blouse showing , ' ith,r ,ilk or csb be utilised 1 i f " ' ' aa a foundation for two or more bloiuea ' ' U --.. tt ef different materisls and different trim- v v S , . f- X f V-V Vv No need to expound on tbs virtue and y T " - I V ' th ont tailored dreaa f . ' " ' A V I of cloth, for aurely all of you underatand ' ' i ? ' -' ' V I PPrciat the Inevitable poeltion .V. I jf I ' V thte type of dress hold by virtue of Its J I "! K3' ' ' ' '. ' - , .v. ' " ' T:A f v Hatter' pluab. bound and ' jx if 1 1 trimmed with grosgrain rib- im " i I j 1 1 bon. developed this very T r--S" j fill - fetching hat a close-fitting N i I 1 model auch aa is so generally L V- ( ' ,r .i " 1 1 'v'' ' " acceptable, ahowing the do- i - ' i 1 , ' ,( f I 11 cided departure from the one I J . ".- ' ' " A. ' ' J ' - I all-prevailing mushroom ahapa ( 11 TTa,,lj'"it. 'Uiaia'"" "" ' ' "fr'' ' f S ( TN SELECTING the photographic ma- 'Vi S , This pleasing example of the mode in wit for young women I ' rt T j 'TT C"T f" urial iot tody' ch' on '"hioM 1 J V A ia of fine gray woreted material having a twoolor (twd I i ' j T. . JT. TT . have endeavored to present what might . .ViA.'fViV ..J kl... m i i . ju.i I 1 and a phun red for trimming fcj eily U accepted an autumn Tad f ( ' d blue) .tnp.ng. The fur aUver-Upped kit fo I thU very yet practical winter outfit for a busy yuung woman y ' V- I . one-oieca tailored d sea. h i. minus, of course, a real evening or dance i-i, t i ' But In any ess it seem to be the accepted silhouette and doe not fit th I , , . , , V. . dress, which with many young women U, f ' - i I general rule If economy bo necessary personality of th wearer. , 1 ' ton-trimmed and depicting a after all, a thing quite apart from their ' "". ; . ' ' ur " theae special clothes The busy woman doe not 'want th , new and interesting treatment general wardrobe. I ' i'.s - rather than on th wprking wardrobe, extreme 'of fashion, but aha absolutely , V " ' of neck-and-sleeve finish The business and prrfouional women, V i I ,31 v.; I And what a wise practice this Is I For must have clothes that are in vogue ' . irrespective of age, whom I know per- ' t 1 It is after all in our work that w hav . simple, pleasing example of the best ia ' ' i sonally, and these are a goodly number, t I ' av ' ' 1 the most need to sppear at our best that a seasorf's mode, developed in good ma- V ' strong Russian trend have recently bees) ' invariably choose first what they term . ' a vV Is, if, as I am taking for granted, success terist-snd well made. J. f jji introduced and, whan fur banded, are a "working wardrobe," and this is like- 11 ' t- in our chosen work is uppermost in our Nothing eveals the unsubstantial post- S rich and complete enough to need only wise the report I hav received from V , Tl" mind. tlon of a near-buainess woman and her ir- t' the plainest of skirts to give a charming shops and outfitter who cater to this i il 1 Personslly I do not consider the girl responsibility like extreme example of ' -"" costum effect. class of women. 'iflll I r S or woman who holds any different the mode developed ia cheap material M tM. I. u Brocade of ai!k snd velvet, as well as Mind you, this first and early attention , " ' ' j 1 1 I i i ' ' view as really being entitled to the title and poorly made. 4 ' noV" "P- bM of metal, are ideal for these blouse, snd to practical needs does not in any sens ! j? I ' ? v" A rf bainu professional woman, for Better by far t wear for several ae VerJ new w coaU ih tur m,T wv collar and cuffs, mean that busy outside-the-home women 1', -!'' ' V with such girl or woman her work I sons a well-tailored suit of conservative ' Veloped with a cape back. Th though the effect of trimming the side are not interested in "party clothes," but 4. . ' ' 'A V simply a means to some other end cut, made of a fine imported or domestie fabric is an imported black and ,ron clo,n" ni ,ow,r d ,aT that they know, some from none too . ' 1 'Jv fl transient workers, I call them, seeking fabric, thaa a aew shovy but cheap white n.;A wn..i.J. ,u. addatothe richness of th general effect, pleasant experience, that so-termed ' ' A 4 permanent positions as wives of men suit each season. Pu'd the collar BhorUr blouses are of csntoa and fiat . "working clothes" are as essential to ' ' 1 ' who can afford to let them liv in selfish The same is true ef a coat, and above all of ver-'PPed kit fox crepe, satin-back crop and combination them as are smart, well-tailored business Indulgence without working. should a really good fabric coat, fur silk-aad-wool crepes. suits to many. I De not, I pray you, take this last re- trimmed, be chosen Instead of a cheap service in ever , t,t When crepe de chine is used, knife g While they cannot be termed sodal f ! ! mark to imply that I do not advocate and and showy fur coat it Is surely it sm te call rouVa'tten- plaiUng la a favorite trimming, and even ' butterflies, the present-dsy busy profes- 1 ; j I believe that matrimony is to a consider- Suit, coat, business dress and restaa- tlon to the new designs In this mod and ioM ot blou enUrely knife- ' lonal and business women are never- ' i- able degree a business partnership, only rant frock shown today ail express this th fact that plaid and striped material . theles active in social affairs having i j j ear of genuine and permanent success thought of eonservatlv good teste and are being used extensively for these all- Tn "eckllne prevails in many no doubt learned from the lives of their J ! when both parties to the .contract are th practicality of choosing apparel of important attributes of th busy woman' Bew blouses though it should . predecessors that all work and no play i . working partners; and I'm sure you will good material splendidly mad. outfit. , .be understood that the real Russian make as uninteresting a girl of Jan 11 1 agree with ma that the parasite business Note, please, the newness of the coat Many new and quite unusual ideas in blou ' finished with a high choker as it makes a dull boy of Jack, and that $ ' . I woman, th transient worker and th suit as expressed by th knee-length coats have been expressed In the new collar. Without exception the Rusaiaa minds are better qualified to compete in ' ' 1 ,1 near-professional dabbler are none of Jacket, with It long collar roll and one- fashions, th cape-back effect and th us blouse has full-length sleeves, but sleeves business and in the professions when ' ' them good material for an active and button closing: also that rough two-ton of large plaid and wide stripe materials T,rT considerably In length and treat, there 1 relaxation in play or recreation. J ft helpful partner. uitings are in vogue, and that fur- being particularly noticeable. Rough nient on other models. . Two or three frocks or gowns for ( I " I Se it is the genuine business woman finished neck and sleeves eliminate th weave predominate ia many Instances, Duvetyn In light colon, braided er . strictly evening wear are, I find, about 1 W ' - . ,. who interest me, snd with whose clothe need of (null furs. . and such fabrics a camel doth, in soft, embroidered in darker shade er in black, the average number to be found In the i ' 4" ' ' " 3 need I am at th moment concerned The Irresistible charm of the simple fleecy weave and waved and curled favorite material for th separate) business woman' winter wardrobe, and v ': :- 1 though I believe you will agree that th line of th Russian blouse I well un- finish, ro a delightful addition to tail- coatee type ef blouse, with plaited ribboa these vary naturally in character accord- j Miection presented on this page can derstood, and when there I added to end modes a well aa for (port wear. as th sleeve and neck finish. 1 A. i iu- .1 1 . . t""' ' 1, 1 in ml tJ tnr tH emlnin mam. thla the allurement nf rntnr fnuiul In a Fanm k. This pleasing example of the mode in suit for young women is of fine gray worsted material having a two-color (red and blue) striping. The fur is silver-tipped kit fox v. Hatter' plush, bound and trimmed with grosgrain rib- j bon. developed this very fetching hat a close-fitting model such aa ia so generally acceptable, showing the decided de-cided departure from the once all-prevailing mushroom ahapa TN SELECTING th photographic ma- terial for today's chat on fashions I , have endeavored to present what might easily be accepted as an autumn and winter outfit for a busy yvung woman-minus, woman-minus, of course, a real evening or dance dress, which with many young women is, after all, a thing quite apart from their general wardrobe. The business and professional women, irrespective of age, whom I know personally, per-sonally, and these are a goodly number, invariably choose first what they term a "working wardrobe," and this is lika- wise th report I hav received from shops and outfitter who cater to this class' of women. Mind you, this first and early attention to practical needs does not in sny sens mesn thst busy outside-the-home women are not Interested in "party clothes," but that they know, some from none too pleasant experience, that so-termed . "working clothes" are as essential to them as are smart, well-tailored business suits to many. While they cannot be termed social butterflies, the present-dsy busy professional profes-sional and business women are nevertheless never-theless active in social affairs having no doubt learned from the lives of their .predecessors that all work and no play make a uninteresting a girl of Jan as it makes a dull boy of Jack, and that minds are better qualified to compete in business and in th professions when there is relaxation in play or recreation. . Two or three frocks or gowns for strictly evening wear are, I find, about the average number to be found In the business woman's winter wardrobe, and these vary naturally in character according accord-ing to how th particular woman feels about social life. THE dance devote will choose frocks suitable for such affairs, and, if finances permit, she probably will have ' ven more frock than the girl or th , woman whose social activities are eon-fined eon-fined to concerts, theatre, bridge par- ties, dinner and good, old-fashioned tudghborhood, visiting, f , ; . 1 - ' ' But In any ease it seem to be th general rule If economy be necessary to save on these special clothes rather than on th working wardrobe. And what a wis practice this Is I For It is after all In our work that w hav the most need to appear at our best that Is, if, ss I sm taking for granted, success in our chosen work is uppermost in our minds. Personslly I do not consider the girl or th woman who hold any different view as really being entitled to th title of business or professional woman, for with such girl or woman her work I simply a means to some other end-transient end-transient workers, I call them, seeking permanent position as wives of men who can afford to let them liv in selfish indulgence without working. De not, I pray you, take this last remark re-mark to imply that I do not advocate and believe that matrimony ia to a consider-abl consider-abl degree a businea partnership, only sure of genuine and permanent success when both parties to the .contract are working partners; and I'm sure you will agree with me that the parasite business woman, th transient worker end th near-professional dabbler are none of them good material for an activ and helpful partner. Se it is th genuine business woman who interest me, and with who clothes Beeda I am at th moment concerned though I believe you will agree that th election presented on this peg -can terv equally well for the feminine member mem-ber of a real matrimonial partnership or for a colics girl o: a professions! student. Utility, style, comfort these qualities must always be combined if the clothes for a busy girl or woman are to fulfill completely their real mission. But even these essential are lessened If th apparel ap-parel doe not consistently follow th trend of fashion, does not conform to th accepted silhouette and does not fit the personality of th wearer. The busy woman doe not want th extreme 'of fashion, but ah absolutely must have clothes that are in vogue ' , simple, pleasing examples of th best ia a seaiori's mode, developed in good ma-terist ma-terist and well made. Nothing feveals the unsubstantial position posi-tion of a near-buainess woman and her ir-responsibility ir-responsibility like extreme example of th mod developed ia cheap material and poorly mad. Better by far t wear for severs! seasons sea-sons a well-tailored auit of conservative cut, made of a fine imported or domestie fabric, thaa a aew showy but cheap suit each season. The same is true ef a coat, and above sll should a really good fabric coat, fur trimmed, be chosen Instead of a cheap and showy fur coat ' Suit, coat, business dress and restaurant restau-rant frock shown today all sipress this thought of eonservatlv good taste and the practicality of choosing apparel of good material splendidly mad. Note, please, th newness of the coat suit as expressed by th knee-length jacket, with Its long collar roll and one-button one-button closing: also that rough two-tone suitings are in vogue, and that fur-finished fur-finished neck and sleeves eliminate th need of (mall fur. Th Irresistible charm of the slmpls line of th Russian blouss I well understood, un-derstood, and when there I added to thla th allurement of color found in a silk and metal brocad edged with fox fur and worn with a close-fitting straight - skirt of soft velvet, the appeal of auch a restaurant frock is not to be questioned. ques-tioned. " Russian blouse effects sre so delightfully delight-fully youthful yet dignified, so perfect per-fect In Un ss to be practically alway in fashion, and so absolutely easy to Hp Into that this typ of frock 1 a FMm ky Stasias Caaei Of gray and red plaid veloun and a plain red for trimming is ' thia very smart yet practical one-piece tailored dree, button-trimmed and depicting a new and interesting treatment of neck-and-sleeve finish strong Russian trend hav recently beea ' introduced and, whan fur banded, are rich and complete enough to need only th plainest of skirt to giv a charming costum effect. Brocades of silk and velvet, as wall ss of metal, are ideal for thee blouse, snd th fur may serve" as collar and cuffs, though th effect of trimming the side-front side-front closing and lower edge with fur adda to th richness of th general effect. Shorter blouse sre of csntoa and fiat crepe, satin-back crop and combination silk-aad-wool crepes. When crepe de chin 1 used, knife g plaiting la a favorite trimming, and even ' section of the blouse are entirely knife ' ' plaited. The square neckline prevail In many ef these new blouse though it should be understood thst th real Russian blouse I finished with a high choker collar. Without exception the Rusaiaa blouse ha full-length sleeves, but sleeve vary considerably In length and treatment treat-ment on other model. Duvetyn In light color, braided or embroidered la dsrker shade er In black, ia a favorite material for th separate coatee typ ef blouse, with plaited ribboa as the sleeve and neck finish. The loose, unbelted blouse, like the loos, unbelted dress, has been accepted by many smart women but these are a, only suggested for the slim woman er on whoa figure la flat rather thaa rounded. Blouse with loos back of plaiting hav carried over from th summer and early fall and are aa especially happy choice tor many type ef figure, - r- t No, thia i not a cape suit, but very new idea in coats developed de-veloped with a cape back. Th fabric ia an imported black and white plaid worated; the collar ia of silver-tipped kit fox service In every women's wardrobe; but it I surely not amiss to call your attention atten-tion to the new designs in thia mod and th fact that plaid and striped material are being used extensively for these all-important all-important attribute of th busy woman' outfit. , Many new and quite unusual ideas In coats have been expressed in the new fashions, th cape-back effect and th us of large plaid and wide atrip material being particularly noticeable. Rough weave predominate in many Instances, and such fabrics a carnal doth, in (oft, fleecy weaves and waved and curled finishes, sre a delightful addition to tailored tail-ored mode as well as for sport wear. Fancy worsteds, too, have graduated, so to speak, from the sport elasa to that of tailor-made, nd this sll means mar colorful apparel for general wear. OOATEES and jaquette are favorite blouse types for the coming season, snd embroidery is a favorite trimming, with beading as first choice on blouse intended for dressy wear. - The Chin Influence is decidedly pro- Giving strong evidence of the Russian trend, thia tunic of metal brocade worn with a velvet skirt ia further enhanced as a costume by the long Oriental Orien-tal tasaeled sash and the turban of gold cloth . V cessiiawi. nit ' nan fmm Ctmmu' . ' ' ' ' . s ' ' ' . ..: |