Show Artistry F Keynote i Daring Clothes on Wane Dark Colors Predominate I-H I HERE ERE is the tue handsomest wrap to be le shown at the tue fashion L show The price c is too long for this space t t I i S 4 S I I I j dl f 5 t S I fl J S r fr v lT is' is 7 I tr S Sa a S-I S i p kt s 5 5 si 5 M X sS 4 kW S L v vF F S S 5 Sc 5 S. S S 5 1 4 S II I I cT I t Smartness Will Be Much in I E Evidence in Miladys Milady's i S Gowns This Winter I I IBy S By Hazel Macdonald MacdonaldD MacdonaldD An FASHION has has at t last tired D of her semiannual prerogative to decree that her her- feminine votaries vo vo- ye array themselves cs in clothes that flit were were were well well certainly not l. beautiful but lt which l were were were-we r we speak charitably different charitably different at any cost from Crom last seasons One can cant can't t be fashionably dressed re sed this fall by by- merely wearing daring clothes it is much more essential essential essen essen- that one bo be artistic The d day of extremes and of rapid changes chang's in women's styles s seems to have passed Thank goodness we no longer need to feel apprehensive about what hat they're there going goinS' to tomake make u ua wr wear r next That tulle and metal and metal cloth evening evening evening eve eve- I ning gown that you got when Cousin Juella's as a's daughter was married lat January wont won't be so very posse passe this fall fall and and you ou know such a thing as that hasn't happened since grandma was a girl and used to to turn her silk C Continued ed on page 4 I ARTISTRY FASHION I I Continued from pagel page 1 bombazine three times In as many ny sea sea- I S sons Perhaps its it's the waning influence of 01 the foreign setters fashion perhaps the war has sobered us perhaps Amerlean Amer- Amer lean dean designers are having a chance to as' as rt their latent love of the artistic rather than the freakish At an any rate the gowns owns and millinery and yes and yes oven ex-en f the boots displayed boots displayed in the S Salt Lake shops this fall show a conservatism md a feeling for good taste that is re ref re- re I f freshing All AH of which does not m mean that mean that our clothes are not going to bc smart be-smart mart because because be t I cause good ta tats taste e in dress includes the I Idea of smartness Now ow are you curious to know what I youre you're going g to see ee ee at the fall faU openings openIngs openings open open- ings this this- week Because there are some ome changes of course VARIED SHADES OF COLOR Inasmuch as color is the most im important important im- im feature of women's dress im-I im Ill I'll tell you about that first There are aie a number of or new shades Beetroot which is a very cry deep shade of ot purple and re resemble resembles resembles re- re the burgundy shade of last lat lasty y year ar will be he the most popular earl early parly in inthe inthe the season but later on It is likely to tobe tobe be he replaced by taupe army blue which is a lighter shade ahad than navy pavy I I myrtle green Kolinsky brown or Oxford Ox Ox- Oz- Oz ford gray The new flamo namo shade Is ex exquIsite exquisite ex- ex J when combined I with elephant gray And then theres there's that Cuban shade which i i. i newest of I all and is lighter than chocolate and darker than sand For evening wear turquoise blue flame lame apricot and I maize as well as all the more delicate shades will be worn More lore tailored man-tailored suits will be seen this year than for some time Coats are rather long three quarter three quarter length In in the th more severely tailored models and end skirts are narrower than last seaon season season sea sea- son on and quite short Straight lines predominate pre pro dominate in suits ns as well as In tn u gowns end and coats The coats of the more elaborate elaborate dab dab- orate suits are shorter and are frequently frequently frer fre fre- fre- fre I r fur trimmed One attractive m model del is is' called the Patria and arid was I Inspired by Mrs Vernon Castle The lines of this suit of are are long I II and straight there is a high collar of novel cut rows of buttons in both I front and back and a buckled belt t. t Tailored suits are made In mannish I mixtures s in tweed and in br broadcloth Some of o. o the softer fabrics used are velour a heavy quality of or wool Jer jer- jer- jer I Rey sey and chiffon velvet Military effects predominate Some of the suits have belts with cartridge tucks in ip them then and cartridge pockets are worn too For the young girl there are suits of Norfolk cut but with military pockets and Coats for street wear are of burella cloth of ot bolivia velour and other soft r rich looking materials and usually are I fur trimmed Evening wraps are of t. t velvet and are draped ONE PIECE ONE PIECE AFTERNOON GOWNS Afternoon gowns arc are in loose one- one piece effect and are made of or everything everything every- every thing from gabardine to crepe georg georg- ette eite and crepe de meteor F are re especially good One stunning model was In In a a. combination of wool Jersey and satin Braiding of gray Is isI t I popular on the dark blue fabrics And sleeves are tight tight skin skin tight tight and and fitting close about the wrist Buttons are not so generally ene ally used for trimming trimming trim trim- ming as braiding and beading Blue beading Is effective on a a background of black blak Blouses come in hi the suit shades and also are beaded 01 or braided and generally gener goner aU ally fastened or 01 the shoulder shoulder- giving a rounded neck effect In front R Round und necks are are are- aregood good in dresses s too Fillet lace is often used on the while georgette georgette georg georg- ette blouse The satin blouses generally generally gener gener- ally aUy have a high or convertible collar One of dark blue satin was cut In ki kimono kimono kimono ki- ki mono st style le with the sleeves very narrow narrow nar nar- row roy and at the wrist and there was wae a row TOW of satin covered over d running running- down the shoulder and sleeve slee presumably 1 ty to l hold old the the fr back bac j of the waist together There was a collar and nd vestee estee of organdie with this I blouse evening gowns are essentially grac gracel grace grace- i 11 l sr sri 1111 i draped in all sorts of alluring Inexplicable ways They are of chiffon velvet of and meteor of tulle and metal cloths are still good particularly when veiled in silk net For the m matron tron allover filet fUet lace I over metal cloth and combined with black satin makes an effective gown For her daughter the loveliest creation creation creation crea crea- tion I J saw was in a very pale pink satin and georgette a a new combination combination tion of fabrics for evening wear The skirt of this gown was a series of wide tucks and was wired in hoop effect below below below be be- low the hips There were a few opalescent opalescent opalescent opal opal- beads used on the fluff fluffy little bodies Sleeves are still absent from the formal gown DINNER GOWNS DARK Dinner gowns are in black and the Intermediate shades such as peacock blue Moyen Age lines are still worn I A good deal of sold old old and sliver silver lace trimming is shown show I Squirrel will be about the most popular popular popular pop pop- ular fur this lInter Inter although the other short napped furs beaver seal and I mole will come In for they their share of or attention Marten and fox will likewise like Uke- I wise be in high favor I Boots are more quiet qu et than we have I seen them for two years ears The two- two tone shoe shoes are declining in popularity Black and gray is a popular combination combination tion and topped cloth-topped shoes shoe's are going I to be worn probably because of the scarcity of leather I And the hats They really are love love- ly They're big this year And there are soft sort floppy ones for the debu debutante antE I and ind nd stiffer r ones nes with Irregular brims for her mother molher Velvet js s used exclusively exclusively and j st now color are more I popular than black which however as they never g get t tired o of f telling yo you I in the shops is always good Hats of panne velvet are especially good looking look look- Ing As Is usual sual In the ing early tall fall sea ses- season I son feather trimming predominates U Hand nd work is u u-ed u ed a great deal too There are flowers and andr andI r I crocheted ornaments ornament I and ornaments I of chenille not chenille not to mention whole hats i of it H. Novelty ornaments made of I i cocks cock's feathers combined with the plumage e of other birds are very fash faith I And whisper they whisper they say ostrich I feathers are ae coming back We can L hope hpe that they will not be bs of pf the ther willow ll w plume lu variety l t r l vac y |