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Show ;-:T? v. ,-' ' ? --'v-,Xs--X-X X'X:XXX X- ' X ; - v.- - - "'--.- ,-.'.'. f 'AJ -XXA T ADY DUFF-CORDON, the faraou. "Lucile" of Lon- i- "' V I - S : ' ; ' -"'."'' X ''"'. ' f. ' -v j.'-''- v. .' .'"' I i on l'c""t creator of fashions in the world, '.. , i ' ' L'7 "', ''.J " ; - V.'" ."':' ' " .. : S X5Jv' XX-''-'XXxV -' "" write each week' the fashion article for this news- ' . -''. I 'XX'vX : ' '" , - , "' X-. ' .,' C; iX X . X 0 S-' -X-Xr X -'X ; 1 V'h -Y; . X ' X'XXXX , Pper, presenting, all that it newest and; best in styles for well- -..'J ., ; ''VX- ; jt i ' " ' -". ' X ' ' - ''J' .,'.. X' x . .Xv-XX- 1 e .-' 'v - X ,-X. X,XX -X.-XX.XXT v: 1 '-'X 'XX'X'.XX .V XvXv; &XeXWj dressed women. ' X-'; : XxXxXxj-'' f sS- X.XX7 X-X ; X'-- ' r -X X' . ' .XX-' ' j :jF i .-i'T-'jSs'i'. '"' '. - V;'.'. v.'-;" ';ts'' ..;Vt--:V X'i A Vvyi- 4 Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment tringi her ink, ' ' ' ' I f -.CKf'- ' ' H?-"?' "i'-N 'XXXXXjXXv " -V'-"X' ' X-.,X.Xi close touch with that centre of fashion. XX,i ' -'".'" ' 'V---' XX.'-.'X'i ' - ' " r-- -' .v-'.'-'L' 1 :'' - " :'.'.;"''"'.'. y :'" ' " . ." - ? - . ;::PV-:'" .-. -"rv',;:;'i."-:('''lil 4 By Lady Duff-Gordon .. ''''' V;" ; ' ;.: :. ' V -vr-Sj;ft.. rT' HESB photographs give an excellent Idea of ' . . " '' . ' ' ' ' ' ;'V'';Sss:S"vJ'' : C' ''". ': ' ' . 'i'-V--' : I two forms of the new bodices. The dress " . ' ' ' K .', '-. ; 'jU' ' fl;. I -- . " '; iy;1-in the top picture Is of flesh-colored tulle, I'" V .. .. ? '.' . : ' . v ' s ; . .' . "'i. -j with hemstitched circles and festoons of green ' ' J' ' I ' ' ' ' - . : " , s - ' r": ' . y . - ' ; ' V... -" . . - :, ,f tulle- In each circle are bunches of silver and p . .-. J j ;.;:.' " ; ' ,-' ' .7- .; v,(. . -v, ; . - .' black hand-made flowers. The bodice is one of f ' " ' - ' : - "f r i i si;-.'". -; " :,-.-i- .-. ., V;--v:'.":: . V- . ' ! the very newest, high and just a little stiff kind. . ' ' 5 V '-" ' - J v' ': ' -; ' ;" -" ' ' :''' y:i3 The guggestlon of the olden days is further car- i ! ' ' I . - 3 ?' ; rv: '; " 7 ' ' -X.'-: V-'l:-- ;M. -i'-V':' '7 ! i -:-;v : : -X.,;., ried out by the ribbon which takes . j ' ' ix "' ' : ' ; ' - P--' M' ' ' ' " - :' ' -'l ' ' ; " V'r;.; . ' V . ' . ' the place of the aaeh and falls from '; f . . . v - - . - V ' ' " , 'V r--; t '; ' X;' c -"X" ''i-X-K ' r' the sholder knot. u :.' ; ' ' ' " . ' ' lr : X--; V "': -: S-. - x -;-'.' -; VliX ' N. The other little costume has sev- ; t V"'-' - ' '' : - ' ' II t '---' -X,v;--"!j ' 'X . . . '"W. eral novelties. The dress Itself Ib of ' ', - ' ' . ; ' ' Vj i 1 " X- - ". : XX v""1 ?v;i'-v.: i'-'; v; .:: 'P'' : .; net and lace. The wrap is fllmv and , , - " f " t f i i ' X '--V 'i i-:x-- .v;f ' '"Vi'V --.XX- , VXV . light. There is a plain band of lace, :' 'X , f . : : ' ; . - . f - ' '-"'.K- ';' -'5'' -'"'-''f V:..-X..X with a frill of horsehair ribbon. Be- J .- . ... . ; ; f i " I ' ,-'- --.'..-jv. ,X,V 'i'xX''' -. . hind this is a strip of genet fur. The .' ' - " . i" t 4 v ' -At vX;Vr&, ,: . I- headdress is entirely new, and, I - : . t i i ' -i fi "d; - SB0r think, charming. It Is of lace and I"" I 1 HUe jace b0W5 hQld ,t ,n pace at I . ,. ; back. The whole effect of this cos- . XX ' ; tume Is one of softness and daintl- 'j ? ness, and the bodice is designed to ! PhotS carry this out It is very low, of '' ' . ' course, and very simple. i . vt BwKe While- many of the attractive . . - . ' " . '- ATirvet.t- bodices have the long waist effect in - . J '- CHI. front, such as this dress at the top. ' ,- - - r ' , ' . - the tendency Is entirely away from . . ' : ; :. :;A;!'A i mm i k yr x, -;y:.5A : . x ' , - ; . : ' , ;- ;r--,.x;.;: : : ' -mr r Ax f :A . .-: -x:'.:; f-'--' : - 'i ;' "' - ; - X . . ' - ' ' .' " V X' " x;,W .' 'I;xx p."'-; ' f ' ' ' '. X W mm:-. ' r ."' f '. ; v. i u I', . : ;'- ..x - - ' .x " - ; V , ' V :..,:vx; Nv. . - : ; .x-x ' - j';' .. : : : 'A " ' ' : A -Aiy .: A . - A' iy-'-'O' J ' X X X '': v ' ; :-..X :X ' .' -'-Si ''" ' :. - ' : ' ' : -1 ' . . J; AA -"' A ' . ; x Ar,,i A AA :j r . .. -A:A:A ' ' ' Arm v' ' "' :-AAA-. r;-'.:"x' x; i - . , . .". ". ' .'.' v - its -1 : x -.... A: V any of the mediaeval touche bo popular some time ago. The mid-Victorian Influence has entirely banished the Moyan Age. The drcas in the upper left -hand corner is a flesh- J colored tulle, with hem- j stitched circles. It shows one of the new bodices. On the right-hand side is a back view of the same bodice and dress. The photograph at the tower left-hand corner is a dainty evening dress, with far-trimmed wrap, and another form of bodice. ("Lucie,, Models) I - U X- - X';U- " . ' .-, .:: - i jrf'--. It .;. .''. ' i aaiu i( : - - - i c '. L--'- I .- v , - : x - .:'- j K ,. . . j .:; ; '; ' : :' . I , ' , - . : J i-- . J- - ;. . . ' ; :! -; - e'x i , i . '. . i:-.' - . -VV.. .. '.... : ' ' I: ' - ,- " y . ' i- . ' '. - - n ' - ' ' '. ' - . : i. , . X X". ;. - i - . X- - - - I-. ' :k'::' " : i j 'a m Air a:a: --'- : . j How the Worlds First Armies T Compare With Thoss Nov Fighting ; By H. M. TIRARO (The Diatinsuiahed Eayptologiit.) IN tli midst of the great war In which ve are engaged the soldiers of ancient Egypt arouse our interest anew, for like the Belgians of to-day they tlso loved peace and quietness; they believed the security of their land to be guaranteed not by treaties safeguariMn; their neutrality, but by tho natural bounAariLS of the:r country, the sea and the desert. Happy and g.iy tliry .ived at ease in a valley bathed in sunshine all the year round and watered by the fertilizing inundation of their wonderful river. No wonder they hated fighting and became an easy prey to their invaders. Vet low and npain in the old time even the soldiers of aiutent Kgypt. taking advantage of dissensions among their ruiers. suiooeiUd In freeing their land from their i.-ourjt;erors. ami at one memorable time, long before our era, these inhubt'.anls of the valley of the Nile were bold enough to claim the empire of the world. With success In war public opinion in ancient Egypt changed as to the ethics of warfare, for. though in the older periods war Is spoken of as a necessary evil, yet in the time of the great L'yptian Kmpire. in spite of many complaints of rohbery and cruelty practiced by the soldiers, we read of war as the highest com! for the country. The earliest army of K.; pi i f which we have nny record seems to have been more akui to our old militia than to our regular army. Kvery town and every village as well rr each temple estate had to supply and e-iuip a certain number of men for the arn y. and in time of war. as in Franco to day, tho younger prl' .-.ts were probably obliged to serve In the ranks. The ser vants and retainers of the greut nobles were also enrolled according to the feudal system under the command of their various chieftains. These chieftains were net neeessar'ly trained soldiers, and in time of peace they had to undertake civil duties, such an the organization of the great mining and quarrying quarry-ing expedition:! in the Sitnl Peninsula, as well as the transport work of conveying immense blocks from the quarries to the temple buildings, , In time of war wifti the array was mobilized special corps were formed of Nubians fi om the south as well as of Libyan mercenaries, f.iih under their own officers. The Mndol, a warlike trlh south ol the second cataract," supplied sup-plied large bodies of soldiers to the Kgjpilan army, and the word Mtuloi. probably signifying hunter, became the ancient Egyptian Him for sohller and passed Into the Coptic ns Matol. Desert tribes always make good soldiers: like l'ihmael of oh'., they enjoy Hie when their hand Is against every man: they have splendid fighting qualities born of the wild desert life, and Aral! warrfors have more than once put to flight the armies of civilized nations. In undent IJg vt the commissariat was an Important Fpeclal department under its own officials, who had to give account lo the conini.inder In -chief. W'c have details of tho good conitnhjsariat arrangements about "UuO It. C. when an expedition of il.tiuo men was sent by the llatumainat road to the K'.'d Sea.' A wave of martial enthusiasm nnd of nut'.onnl prosperity swept over the country alter the expulsion of the Hvhsos about the sixteenth, ecntvry P.. ;.. and. after clearing their native land of (lie for.-i;-.;i Inv.uleis. the soldiers were Incited hy their leaders to cany their arms Into the eneniy'i! country. Hei-rulllng agents were appointed from among the elass of serihes, and the army was reon:anl,-od on a far larger Male, ami. In spite of the essential non-warlike non-warlike ehaiaeler of her people, Kgvpt became a tull'tary State. JiaM and pillage brought rn hei into the country, and tribute js exacted rioni all conquered tp'.hes. Tho wealth of Asia lured the armies onward, and lor perhaps thr nluries the whole nation was obsessed by tho lust of war-In war-In nri, time of Kgypi inn rompi'st. the :inm was divided into i-iii gnat boii.e,-, H'e army of the seiiMi and tho army 'i the ninth; itiiip ; ih,. ('.real T.sili.livr.li c'i II again Into four gie.il (hv. -,,,:, nnne .1 alter the gnat gods Ua. Amen, Ptah and Sutkh, the king himself taking command of the I division of Amen. The troops were again subdivided into squadrons under captains and oi.icers of lower rank and t several regiments were formed of allied troops aud mer- cenaries who were regularly drilled and trained with the E native Egyptian soldiers. Among these mercenaries were F the Sherden. who may have been the ancestors of the sea- I roving Sardin'ans; they are unmistakable in the repre- i sentations with their curious spiked helmets reminding us of the (.ion-nan headgear of to-day. trategv and tactics r have their place in the training of the officers, and though r at most the foices In the held eanro: have numbered more f than twenty to thirty thous..::,! men. yet we read of the ' wings, and tho centre cf the army. as weu as pf flsnv attacks. In time of war the kins appointed one coran-.ander-in- ( chief, who had the right to appoint officers to subordinate commands. The commander-in-chief was often a prince of the royal house, aDd other princes often competed for the higher appointments under him. though whether unr competitive examination was held for army appointments we know not. t Corresponding with the colors of our troops each ancient Egyptian regiment probably had a standard, a pole with the figure ol an animal, an ostrich feather, a fan or soma other device at the top. round which the men gathered Their standards were reverenced as religious svmbols. and may have been the survivals of the tribal fetishes, which, 1 adopted by each province or nome. afterward became the reg, mental badge belonging to the militia of that nome In the same way as we have our Lancers or Rifles the Egyptians also classified their regiments according to the arms they carried, they had their Archers, their Lancers nnd their Spearmen: some ot the I-nnoors bad a dagger stuck In the belt and carried. i addition to their long lance, a short curved sword. Irge shields were rrofcablv supplied to the whole body of Infantrv. A l'ght wand similar to the cane carried by our officers, is scon in one F. representation In the hand of each fifth man. aud mnv l servo to indicate a subordinate officer in command of four I Hie (.uards. to whom the safety of tho king's person was f committed, were divided into two bodies of men. nH equip. pod with lances to which battle-axes were added in the j case of one corps and shields in tho other, while the off,- I cers carried either clubs or wands. ij The soldiers probably sang en route. In the same war j as our men nowadays. Many love songs nnd war songs- have come down to us. but who can tell which thev sang M on the march: Two thousand years hence men mav "indeed wonder why the English soldiers sang "TlppersrV in tho Croat European War of the twentieth centurv: u I, onlv J when the music as well as the words are extant that we can rca,i-.e why soldiers adopt one song more than an- , rV V, "K08.,1,0' "rp tho good marching . quality of the music than for the world t! It will have been seen rrom what l as been said that army of ancient Egypt was composed of the most M i. erogeneous clenunts. Such an army could onlv be kept i 1 ton. tl.r this motley crew of mercenaries aml n;,v0 f levies. Cnrortunalcly Kn,ses ,. was succeeded bv we' k J I Tlhr !Vri,MU,,y "0t W,-V '" K';' ''thll '"u're but H """ ' "eakness. to,- n.ese garrison troops consisted auxVa .e.T' '' K';,,U1"S ' of Nubia,, or A,mtiv ' , , . ' ' nV of,wl",m ,vo,' th0 -cmles or Kr.vpt. Ame," ;7-n,r ,1,,K'""-'-"" kings the priesllnW Of Amen at. 1 Itches- r, so lo great pow er, mid decorations "uch ns forme, ly were bestowed to' valor It, the Veld ! ere noxv- showered on the members of the priesth od v, ho M Inst snceecded In making tliemsch-es- nil -rs of th l'. Thus ,h,o,-.:,ou, Ibelr Ur, 'A iAtAA: Z ' o "run,':' AT' ,7,",'r,",U"'-n " medei n , "nl v fi ght 1 "ill under h aders whom thev (ni-.t ri,...- u . t' i ' no to ,i-;i, ,e. Pi-lu.h rulers' f , 1 c ' n o w ' , 1' uc -''ss in this great war means u. cenl,.,,,i I , , I. ''" of the llritish .',- ctora,,! ',m gv ! ''' .s"' l t (l j.-hf. .il') 1 ) lltt M ,r i ..ii r ii - ri , fx i i.r, miw. t;. . r , 1 : TT Tt Tr-rr' |