Show wid iw A NATIVE TRADITION THE BANNER IN WHICH THEY CATCH FISH description of ill scenery of several of he islands on the of october I 1 left honolulu accompanied by a native for a short trip on this island kauai whore I 1 traveled for the first timo in the summer months of 1887 kauai is the most northwesterly north westerly of the grou separated from tho extreme southeast south east one by a distance of two miles the geological formation is entirely volcanic and of a more remote period than that of the other islands native tradition runs parallel with scientific investigation on this subject the natives attribute the formation of the group to pele a fire goddess of great antiquity who began her labors by throwing up this island after which ahe made bahu oahu then maui but while engaged on the eastern part of that island the waters interfered from beneat li and drove her out the result being the great crater of haleakala a huge pit twelve miles in circumference at an elevation of feet tele is now hard at work on hawaii which apparently is nearing completion she off to the southeast any day the mountains here are farther from the coast and less rugged than those of the other islands and tho level tracts of land suitable for cultivation more evenly distributed kauai is by far the most beautiful of all those sunny pacific isleb we landed at kalihiwai Kalihi wai a small native village at the mouth of a beautiful river that winds slowly down through a deep canyon whose sides are densely covered with grass and ferns breadfruit chias and banana trees after a comfortable nights lodging we crossed the rive on a rude ferry and rode over the adjoining grassy bills and down to the beach to the home of a native brother who is making preparations to emigrate to utah by his energy he has made quite a modern home has a large house of good design costing 1300 furniture and fixtures to match has horses and cart and cows to milk the elders that have traveled here the last few epars remember the home of fioke detoro with a good deal of aloha i fish abound here and aro caught with a singular made net which is thrown over the school of fish from abo shore or ledge of rock on which the fisherman may stand this net is an innovation among the nii tives and is of portuguese or spanish design it is a round net flat like a plate about forty or fifty feet in circumference cum ference and is weighted at the edge with leaden sinkers placed quite close together in the exact center is tied a short string of which tho native takes hold thus lifting the net up so that tho sinkers will swing all together he then divides them throwing part over his left arm and shoulder and part in hia right hand the balance sw meina downum dow front all ready he now watches for his prey skulking along the sandy beach and rocky heights with as much caution as a boy watching for ducks his keen and practiced eyes peering intently in the water below he suddenly stops swings his net backward and forward two or three times and away it flies unfolding itself as it goes till when it reaches the surface of the water it is spread out in its entire size and if his aim has been accurate falls immediately over the unsuspecting prize this net can be used only in ho water which is not deep but is of great utility where the ordinary kind cannot be used at all after a weeks stay abc this pleasant we left for haena the farthest point that can be traveled on horseback towards the west A short ride brought us to hanales hanalei Han alei one of the most picturesque places on these islands it is first seen when suddenly coming to the edge of a high bluff that skirts tho edge of the river running below from the river to the base of the gorgeous ly clothed mountains a mile away and up the stream till lost in its winding course among the forest and hills is one vast field of ripening rice into the bay a mile below flows the hanales hanalei river upon whose waters the myriad sacks of augar from a large mill on its banks and the rice from the numerous threshing floors of the chinese planters are taken out to the steamer the sight not soon to be forgotten is of the thousand rude flags streamers windmills and scare crows cat through the field with an army of celestials celesti als armed with tin pans gongs and shotguns hallowing halloing hal loing pounding and shooting from early morning till dark to keep off the voracious little rice birds that swarm in this region the most novel and interesting sight on this island is the underground lakes at haena As we near the place the high volcanic mountains that hitherto had followed the interior suddenly turned aown toward the beach ran parallel for a couple of then entirely cut us off from further travel by terminating in the sea under this high black mountain that ribes thousands of feet in a perpendicular height above your head are the lakes and not large but odd enough indeed the former is reached by climbing up the mountain about a hundred feet over rocks that have fallen from above and which have nearly covered up the mouth of the cave on roach ing the top however you have no trouble in seeing the interior as it Ls well lighted below you and nearly on a level with the sea lies this singular lake extending under the mountain no ono knows how far the overhanging rocks gradually nearing tho surface as it recedes until it is entirely cut off from view from above the lake looks like a sheet of frosted silver being entirely covered with a mineral which falls from the roof and not until you splash away this film do you see alio beauty of the waters beneath although the sun never shines into this gloomy cavern we could see the rocks and pebbles on its bottom fathoms deep deeper than my native companion could dive every one must bathe who visits these lakes so after a few plunges in we of our clothes took the balance under our arms slipped into our shoes and started for eighth of a mile farther katiff Sa tiff Js lake dpn out jy f towards the sea anil looks at a distance like a huge railroad tunnel the waters very unlike the other are very dark and cold for the convenience veni ence of tourists a boat has been launched with which by the aidon a torch one is able to penetrate to some distance it was partly filled with water however but thinking it bettor than no boat we pushed it off but it soon sank leaving us to make our way back as best we lake is bottomless so the natives say we bounded it to a depth of ninety feet but found no bottom the water in both is fresh about four miles from these lakes along the rockbound rock bound coast is a habitable spot where dwell about biety conla whose chief occupation is the manufacture of canoes but little intercourse is maintained with the colony on account of the difficulty in reaching it only during a few months in the year and then only when the sea is very calm can a canoe or boat reach there is a foot path however that ia sometimes traveled leading over sharp dangerous crags and deep chasms but few venture from choice toj iak their necks in getting to kalalau in this way of late it has become anite a retreat for lepers A great lauy from this side of the island escape the government officials and flee to this secluded spot for safety feeling perfectly secure from further molestation beside the danger in following them over the almost impassable defiles the threat has gone forth from kalalau that they will not be taken enquiring of some native fishermen who were sitting on the beach opposite one of the caves where the trail was that led to kalalau he answered up where yoa see those konakas Ky there on a sharp point of rock about 2000 feet above our heads chood four or five natives apparently patently ly undecided whether we were friends or foes and whether or not they had better flee to the mountain or come down on further inquiry we were told that a few days before the police had made an incursion into this island in quest of lepers and that these were returning from kalalau where they had been to take their sick friends we sang out to them that we were their frends and to bome but they were too incredulous or heard not for they sat watching us till we rode out of sight around the mountain J F GATES KAAI nov 19 1887 |