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Show tte Early Victorian Modes jK -Revived for K H T ADV D W I-GOR DON, the famous '.,Xiti- JHE ''bueile'' oil London, mid foremost . creator of fashions in the world, HB$ " -: "writes each week the fashion article for I . Hi is newspaper, presenting all that is . newest and hest in styles for well-dressed " IH A women. -. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris . cstab-. x lishment brings her into close touch with' ; ' J'- ;j thnfc cuter of fashion, jB Lady Duff-Gordon's -American' estab- ' Mishmenl. is at Nor T7 "West Thirty-sixth-" street, New York City. H By LaHy Duff-Gordon ("Lucile)" ! A S wiTl be seen from tho photo- H ZraVh ani1 scotch I aJ" Bfl Tl BfiU(l'nC vou t"B '"'CcU, tho IH most conspicuous feature oi' HHE the 6pring designs will be tho unsu- NB ually loug elcevca. HQH Tho photograph shows ft tunic IH edged and trimmed in pale blue taf- IH feta, The design takes us back to UH the early "Victorian period, with its IH puffs and frills. The coat in of IHf orange pink taffeta, with puff iH vleeves. Worn with the gown is a primrose yellow silk hat trimmed with old-fashioned flowcra and bluo ribbon, while an old-fashioned pink sunshade, with a lace fringe, "is car-cior car-cior to cnmplofe tho Victorian effect. Of a far more modern tendency is the creation shown in tho sketch, its lines being almost severe in their simplicity. It is pure white serge, with high black turnover collar and cuffs and squaTe black buttons. Tho skirt is cut 'cr3 narrow and is bound with black to match tho coat. Otherwise it is entirely dovoid of trimming. For thoso who believe in simplicity in dress, this costume could hardly be excelled. Parasols are extremely extravagant extrava-gant this season. Handles -havo become quite works of art. One or rock crystal, with a band of gold to relieve its coldness, is uncommon uncom-mon and effective, but, perhaps, tho costliest of all, is a combination of rose quartz, dark tortoise shell and cut crystal, while to complete black and white costume schemes in tho smartest possible way there aro oth-ct oth-ct handles whoso ivory whiteness eventually gives place to .let tho division between the two being, as usual, most decoratively marked by tho clear white brilliance of the crystal. Some striped silk coverings aro also to bo soon, and here, again, there is cvideuce of the craze for extremes which seoms. to mark all the season's stylcB. Vor while Homo of these patterns show alternating ntripes of at least an inch wido and in the bold contrast of black and white, with a reversible effect in, say turquoise blue and white, others again' will be a mere line, whoso closely blended and contrasting col-lors col-lors can hardly be separated or defined, de-fined, and so .iust give a shot effect. Friugo is bUH being used as a trimming for sunshades, sometimes being added to a corded and gnaged banding, in which case only one row is -used, and, at othor times, forming the sole adornment, when some four or five rows will be brought closely close-ly together. An all-black sunshade of pagoda shape is specially smart with such a fringe trimming to encircle en-circle and accentuate its quaint shape and with the addition or" a black handle, with a cut crystal top, always supposing that the costume cos-tume to which it is to give completion com-pletion and protection is of tho mourning or half mourning variety, or is destined for the wear of a woman who is admittedly elderly if, that is, there are any Buck women wo-men nowadays. For tho black dress or costume, as worn by the woman who may bo labelled "dangerous" (and, of course, you remember the well known adage as to the woman who wears black being cither "dowdy or dangerous")! dan-gerous")! is almost certain to introduce intro-duce .iust one tiny and tantalizing touch of color, and this should, of course, provide the inspiration and excuse for a colored sunshade. I saw one altogether admirablo scheme of this sort tho other day, and herewith record it for yoor admiration and imitation. It was of the coat and skirt variety; tho finest black face cloth was its fabric; and its stylo was the simplest, the coat being straight cut and fastening low down and closely about the hips, where St was broadly banded about with an embroidery of white soutache and silk of au almost laco-lik design. Just a suspicion of green was permitted per-mitted to appear on the little lapels and tho turned -back cuffs just the dark and yet bright green one sees in a duck's wings, tho likeness being be-ing increased by tho uso of a. softly Bhimmcriug ribbed silk. Then thoro was a green sunshade, itnd finally some green quill plumage was grouped in front; of the- black hat, whilo tho boots of black -patent leather, had. white antolope tops, out in that most fashionable and becoming becom-ing way which gives them tho effect of scparato spats. And tho resulting effect wa3 completely and enviably chic, wherefore, as T. do not think that J can improve upon it, I will let it be my last message and model for the1 week. One word, too, as Tcgards wraps. Theso are without exception of full and therefore graco-giving length, tho short coat being only shown and sold as a companion for skirt or dress to match. The materials used for such mantles is onco more chiefly taffeta, black shot with violet vio-let or blue being tho most popular and very practical cplor schemo while rcversiblo sating will continue their original and well-deserved vogue. In millinery the two extremes aro represented, and there are no medium shapes' and .sizes cither "'happy" or otherwise. Either tho brims aro enormous or else thoy curve quito closely to the head, many of the hats having brims of the most oxaggcrated width to somi-low crowns, while tho drapery drap-ery of theso soft straws is a feature of the toques. The straws which are going to bo used may be noted in the following and correct order of precedence and popularity: Vieot pedal. Manillo, Italic, Tagal, crinoline and Bois do .Tapon. There is much talk of floral trimmings, but at the moment only talk. Para, disc, oHpreys, "cross" aigrettes, ostrich quills, wings and most quaintly conceived plumage mounts, bci-y tied together with ribbons, practically the sole and certainly the smart adornment for all the ' newest modclB. As to colors, make a note of nattier, geranium, amaranthe, cyclamen, cy-clamen, biscuit, beige, cerise, vieux bleu and apricot as those which will be moBt UHcd, both for costumes cos-tumes and headgear, and then having hav-ing obtained patterns of one and all and studied critically and closely their effects upon your hair and skin, be in readiness to make a definite and successful choice a. little later. New belts T Yes, I have to mention men-tion the attempt to decorate the stiff patent leather girdles with tassels of all shapes and lengths. Militarism shows plainly in tho little fads of this spring. Tassels decorate every-thing every-thing except lingcrio and handkerchiefs. handker-chiefs. As you will notice in the pictures even the new earrings show the military trend. Earrings made of gold tassels are particularly chic ,'inot now, and a morning hat with one or a dozen hanging tassels is part of every smart Parisian 's wardrobe. ward-robe. And just one word about laces. The new blouses are decorated but slightky with lace, and only with Irish or Venise, Valenciennes would Beein to be entirely out of fashion this spring. And apropos of hat brim linings, black velvet (one of the most becoming be-coming of all) is still being frequently fre-quently and fashionably used, though it has a rival now in the shot taC-fotas taC-fotas which pursuos ns in our every articlo of attire, while Bometimos too a china silk will bo used as a foundation for a veiling of chiffon which softens its patterning "and colors into a mere suggestion. Still again crepe d chine has its own particular and obvious advantages, nd bo, you see, therp is plenty of variety, and consequently of choico, in even this one detail. Who, I wonder, will bo 60 lucky, and so daring, as to bo the first wearer of the quaintest little capote which takes something of "coal scuttle" curves about the wearer's face, and by reason of the- curves brings a lining of saxe blue crepe de chine into pretty contrast with tho hair. Outwardly it is f hioncd of tho most supple burnt straw and of -printed tussore, whoso stnkiug device of flowers and Vandykcd Btripes blends feige and blue, pink and green, black and white color-iucs. color-iucs. So elaborate, indeed, is the device and daring the color scheme that no trimming is added or wanted, want-ed, but tber is provided, as a companion com-panion for tho hat (or cap or whatever what-ever you like to call it), an equally equal-ly curious bag which is for all the world like a diminutive bolster, or on tho other hand a gigantic copy of one of the old-fashioned knitted purses. For it is divided In the center by double handles formed of gathered and corded shantung, this being tho material chiefly used for its making, while blue crepo do chine lining just gives a hint of the presence of the slit openings at cither sido, while finally a circlet of straw is introduced intro-duced at ouo end to keep the bag from sagging together, and therefore to make it easier to get afc its contents con-tents of purse or handkerchief or tho powder puff from which no wifle woman would over willingly be separated. And as to tho other end, that, lot me tell you, Mo occupied by a little circular mirror so that the application of the aforementioned aforemen-tioned powder puff may be unobtrusive unobtru-sive and also satisfactory. So what more, I ask you, could any woman want? The prettiest of all the taffeta hats to my thinking, however, is one made in the new long sailor shape and covered with a very finely fine-ly checked silk in white and palo errfen and blue. A black velvet underlining un-derlining Bhowing up this delicacy A simple "Lucile" coat and skirt A "Lucile" creation fashioned on the style of 18j of white serge, trimmed with showing the new long sleeve3, which ar 9Mi black, in which the long sleeves ' to be in vogue. II;. are the newest touch. of tone admirably. And for trimming trim-ming it has .inst an encircling wreath of little flowers which arc formed of any number of closely clustered loops of wool in brightest shades of grass green, cerise, pur ple, orange, blue and canftry yellow, while .iust two or three arc in softer soft-er shadings of gray and mauvc and one only in black. Each flower, too, is centered with a daringly different differ-ent color, vivid blue, for instance, being contrasted with the F'jjF while orango and purple an( certji and purple aro also noticcabW;.-Itenlly, noticcabW;.-Itenlly, it is wonderful what can jm done and dared when wool ij tf fabric for manipulation. |