| Show l5 FmJj j jMjNXlYEfi f 3J l 0 0 e 04JOJCXhr W ml iFj 0Yw SSSX333 5X3 if JmYiJ f l JifYr C 0 II r Ii Jessie > < Goddard Writes of the f 4 Jf s 3 w I Homes in Vienna Differ a Great rn 1 t l Almost Terrifying Yellow Mist IN AUSTRIAS r ti CAPITAL CIT EteaE from an American Homeu ° That Envelopes Vienna in the 5 lli Laws Regarding Rental of Buildings I I I 11 i ft > Autnnvn Days jj J 3 jfl 3 I r L < 0 m Build-ings Unusually Strict I V ti rt fts s f i 055CM W > JYJWli1J l g3S KJia3i x V iifi m J v G X 0i fj ilfi > e t J e Y0 > > J 1l J XJ > I I r t CORRESPONDENCE TRIBUNE t Vienna Nov 27 When the autumn II days have come and mists haw heavy over the cities1 London Iff black and g II gloomy Paris gray and artistic and 1 1 There is I 1i i Vienna 1 yellow and uncanny something almost terrifying In the t 1 tt t weird yillow days of Vienna and tho t reeling Is enhanced when toward 4 t i I I oclock tho lights are turned on and the r j g inlet In the distance glows red One g shudders and would return for protection I protec-tion behind drawn blinds but com polled to go on hurries blindly along t knocked hero and there by others as f l blind ns himself In this awful fog I 1I 1 I through degrees of Uncles as It seems p I into actual flames No one who < has I l not experienced these weird days com 1 I f ins sometimes several In succession 1 II I can realize how suggestive they are of I j the end of the world And we are glad I I j that all days in Vienna are not yellow I II i I and that we have seen the city in sun I i shine and under blue skies Then it Is e J I that the fling the worldfamed I street encircling the inner city along i 1 I i the lines of the old ramparts reveals i I Its splendor About sixty yards in t f breadth with rows of trees and promenades = r I prome-nades down the center and with both l I I sides lined with buildings that are architectural r I I ar-chitectural irlumphs it is Justly the J pride of Vienna Yet handsome as It is i S Jn its separate features handsomer In I I 1 these than any other street I can recall re-call It Is not in Its general effect so impressively beautiful as the Champs 1 JElysees of Paris because it has no vistas I I vis-tas The same comparison may he i f made not only between the two cele I orated streets of these interesting cap J 1 I I JJtols but between the cities themselves t r i as a whole Vienna has comparatively JJI V r jfew towers no heights and no vistas r JifC I climb to the tower of St Stephens J r J cathedral will be rewarded by the sight ltv I of a few pretty hills along the Danube D jfin the distance It the day is clear but f below by only an expanse of unplctur i I csque roofs about on a level I I I I STRICT LAW AS TO BUILDINGS 1 t i Law which seems to be absent in some instances and very lax in other I t concerning filth in the streets is explicit I I ex-plicit and strict enough in regard to the building and routing of houses 11 i Buildings so the law says can be only i J I three stories hut this means fie in > fur terminology for the first floor Is I I called hoch parture the second I II t fezvanln the third the first story and I IsO I on the last or really the fifth being t I called the third The houses are emIt em-It iG i j thC flat plan ns is I customary in our hI large cities but with this difference i I lijthat I i they are less conveniently trI tr-I ranged than ours and have fewer but i c larger rooms in corresponding space 1 I A Ilausmelnter Is In charge of the building whose business It iy j to attend 1 I to the renting of the flats and to look I I r 1 it after the janitor work of keeping l halls and stairs clean His income comer mainly from u custom that so far ns T have been able to learn is peculiar to Vienna and Prague No keys lo the door of the building are given to anyone any-one and that door is locked promptly nt 10 oclock at night and lights In the I hulls arc put out Then if anyone wishes cither to leave or to enter the building he must ring jp the Haus I I mcister who opens the door and holds a light thereby receiving twenty hel ler four cents So evening callers In I Vienna seldom linger 1 after 00 ns I they like to get out of tlje house where they are calling and Into their own In lime to cseuae the double tare The householder is protected by law in demanding de-manding exact knowledge of hip tenants ten-ants affairs and if the tenant misrepresents misrep-resents his position In any particular he Is subject to a fine RESPONSIBLE FOR PEOPLE I The tenant t too Is responsible for the 1 people in his fnmly He Is obliged to report every visitor for a longer period than a few days to the chief police station within i six days after the arrival ar-rival For this purpose the visitor Is required to fill out three copies of ones birth and position and it seems to be the object of the police ofllclals to find some defect In the way the blank is filled out and thus cause the poor tenant ten-ant extra trips to the police station 1 In one case they objected because the visitor had put only Protestant In answer to the question HClI Ion and I returned the paper for more definite defi-nite expression whereupon the word Baptist was substituted but I am sure the Vienna officials were no wiser I thereby than they were before Every time one moves he must make out the papers anew so it Is well to be quite J accurate in making out the first papers I and equally so thereafter for many a story is I told oC trials undergone by I American ladles who have been careless care-less in the statements of some oC the statistics DIFFER FROM AMERICAN HOME The usual Vienna home as does a j German one differs somewhat from nn I I American In the first 1 place the paper the furniture and the hangings are dark even in rooms with little window win-dow space needing rather to be lightened I I light-ened The windows are all double I opening into the room from their division divi-sion in the center and having a space of about eight or ten inches between the two sets of glass A cushion as long as the window is wide about six Inches in width and two and a half or three inches thick stands 1 on Its narrow I nar-row edge across the sill between the double windows to keep out the wind I Iso I-so I was told but the people have them r In their windows during the summer I I days and I have noticed they seem to j find them very convenient to lean on while gazing out onto the street below 1 BEDDING THOROUGHLY AIRED Every morning early the windows are thrown wide open and filled with tho I bedding every article of which from I pillow to maltresH Is hung out to air I until afternoon so that whllo tho Aus trhins content themselves with being shut up in close offices and sitting rooms all day and in sleeping in close bedrooms at night they air their bedding I bed-ding much more thoroughly than we I do The beds are so high that a footstool I foot-stool almost as little known ns a rocking rock-Ing chair In a Vienna home would boa 1 bo-a most comfortable adjunct to the furniture fur-niture of tho bedroom Springs and I mattresses aro lint being Inti educed hut the strictly Austrian bed has sluts i I a straw tick and then a feather one Over this last Is placed an undershoot frequently oC linen As regards the coverings custom varies In different families In many there arc the customary cus-tomary uper sheet and blanket as with i us and then In ndilion the everpres < < ent upper feather I bed which In 1 well todo families Is of down and therefore I there-fore very light In other families however the only covering is the feather tick which then Is large enough I to cover the whole bed whereas when other covers are used too it Is only nbout twothirds the length of the bed The top cover or finish to the bed is sometimes a white regulation bedspread bed-spread or lace covering but more often I is 01 tapestry to match the heavy portieres por-tieres of tho room Pillow cases and I upper sheet arc trimmed with laso Insertion In-sertion and edge NO QUICK FIRES Though there is never any doubt about l ones being warm enough In bed if ho used the feather covering there is no certainty of his being to during the day unless lia makes up his mind today to-day that ho lr going to be cold tomorrow tomor-row for such JL thing as a quick file in one oC the large porcclain stoves is impossible But these stoves have advantages as well UH disadvantage They are usually built In a corner oC the room and of tiles of such color us to harmonku with the walls thereby being unobtrusive They are economical economi-cal for the fire pot is small holding only a few small shovelfuls of coal that lighted In the morning will suff ciently warm the stove lo enable it to continue radiating heat till evening but there can be no cm rent of cold air coming com-ing into the room for it will cool off the stove and stop the source of heat so it is that one has to suffocate In close warm air or shiver in fresh cold air wither of which is difficult for an American Ameri-can RENTS AND FOOD HIGH Rents and food in Vienna are very high but clothing comparatively cheap That which has particularly interested us in the marketing is that there Is no general grocery where everything can be bought but there is a special shop for each kind of food ns a bakery l Is a place where only broad can be bought t and for cake one mast go to a con < < ditorel or shop where cake and candy I are kept l for meat there Is not one shop for nil kinds but one for all products I of the pig another for beef and mutton and still another for game and so on I Then food Is sold In such very small quantities This may be due to the fact I that tho houses have no conveniences for storing quantities of things or to the desire of accommodating sales to the poekelhookii of the poor moat probably prob-ably to both l At any rate the poor seem always to he in the minds of the people Eggs and rolls which are usually sold In America at so much a dozen are here sold at KO much a piece no reduction being given on a dozen It is i not necessary = to buy a whole goose if one wishes a treat for one meal for a single slice or a leg or wing may be bought Even a slice of bread and butter can be had for a few holler and a common sight I Is that of a workman stopping on his way = to his labors to buy his breakfast in this way The little fruit and vegetable booths are interestIng interest-Ing for they pop up early in the morning at frequent < points nIl over the city and as suddenly disappear about noon so the housewife needs to be out early unless she wants the trouble of Going to a shop for this part of her days supplies The food specialties of Vienna are of course Its cakes its rolls and its coffee cakes made In confectionery con-fectionery shops that might well be the envy of American home cooks rolls so good that it Is no hardship to cat them without butter and delicionu coffee cof-fee better than French and German but to my taste not quite so good as Vienna or French coffee made In America Vienna style la to serve coffee < with obcrt In lull glasses Obers was something entirely unknown to me and when on the night of my arrival the landlady suggested that I should have my coffee next morning with obeys I insisted I didnt want anything any-thing but hot milk for It I was loo l fearful that It might bo something as disagreeable as the caraway annse and poppy seeds that are so plentiful in German Ger-man and Auslrinncookiug and I preferred pre-ferred not to take any risk However despite my protestations she brought my coffee with obeys which is the froth that comes from whipping new millc CAFES ARE NUMEROUS Cafes are even more numerous in proportion pro-portion to population than in Munich and they are always full for Vienna too has a large class of people who live only for pleasure finding that pleasure In dress the opera the theater and the cafe hence the style the magnificence of stage and excellence of music and dellciousncss of eatables and drinkables to meet the demand Mentioning the opera reminds me of Lohengrin which we heard a few nights ago Our special interest lay In the fact that the title role was hung by Vinkclman the last of Wagners original singers his ideal Lohengrin Wagner taught him to sing all the parts he takes every look and gesture and the pure silver armor that he wears ns Lohengrin valued at over SJOOi was a gift from the late King Ludwig II of Bavaria while at limes his voice is as clear and as beautiful as it has been described In the past it Is not to he re lied on and occasionally there is a disagreeable dis-agreeable huskiness in It CITY OF EXTREMES Vienna seems to be a I oily of extremes for while here I is this set of very gay stylish people it has also the most povei tystricktn looking nnd over bin dened people on its streets that we have thus far seen In our travels And it is tile sight of these wretched ones particularly of the women drawing carts carrying on their backs twice and often thrice the burdens I saw In Munich and tending matron that II takes nvny = mach of the pleasure Ono finds in the beautiful architecture lilt the Iting1ESSIL GODDARD t |
