Show iI f J II t 7 > THE N O R T HE t j 1 t V EN ICE Something MetJropol They Do Us > O About of Sights Hollfliv the Seen People im Thd the What in City the t xc I liil j v f v f r l E6 lr4k Jij 1 ii J Jii t o c r IiJ tr ill r tT LT I CORRESPONDENCE TRIRUNE I 3Am Holland Aug J Amsterdam called The Northern itnlain has boon S claim It has touch Venice but the only uch a title Is the numbel of Its cnnnls the blue fll Venice the hrlsht skies waters rnd the gondolas gliding along of the gracefully stroke finder the easy swavlne gondolier are all suggestive of in which to dream fairy land I a place In Amsterdam the ones life away but the dark waters and the skies heavy lumbering along underlie elumsy barges Dutch the exertion oC the fat coarso malerlnl world the place man of a where man must work for dally brood artistic Amsterdam I c Venice Is preeminently However it la sterdam commercial the commercial enterprises not so much themselves that interest one in Amster them on and carrying dam as the people tho usual tourist sights PARK DAM TVILIjEMS shocking to hear one if was a trine r It number read nloud the sign l on of our Dam WIHems gate of the street cars necessary i letter missing the Park but In the explanation and profanity I mcdeki that the Dam Is the open I nnedelr fuarcln front of the Queens palace r care in of assured 15 that either the city urcd us t Serdam our fellow member nor mcint hm The place Is not be profane meant < < to than Occupied for more bv 1 the Queen occuplcc1 > Six In the year for she eight days six or at one iaTlr resides at The Hague or usually palaces It was orlgl country of her city hall and except i built for a nallv I ei fine marble walls In a few ept for some l the ballroom it Is a of the rooms and affair not half so fine as some shabby nuld old Rngllsh country of the grand palaces houses orlhe Italian I NEW CHURCH INTERESTING Church so called though I The New dating from the early part of the fifteenth Js Interesting to see for teenth century Wilhclmlna s of Queen the association o coronation there and for the fine brass magnificently carved pul choir 1 screen window new stained glass pit and the new representing the coronation of the present pres-ent Queen REMBRANDTS NIGHT WATCH The Ryks museum has a fine collection I collec-tion of porcelain and many excellent works of Dutch masters but there is that will make the t Just one picture tired sightseer forget his weariness that Is RembianuTs Night I AVatch v > It I Is one of the things that It Is worthwhile worth-while crossing the ocean to see The I significance of the title is beyond met me-t as it seems to be beyond the critics but the dramatic action of the citizen f soldiers as They come forth from the guildhouse Is sufficient to arouse the emotions of the most Inappreciative of beholders It has the dnrk rich brown and reddish yellow colors which Rembrandt I Rem-brandt always used ho effectively and J FO strong Is the light of the picture I f that It seems to radiate Into the room There Is much the same deception of the giving forth of light by this picture I that there Is of a breeze by the draperies of the Winged Victory Samothraee e which stands In the Louvre gallery alI al-I Paris AMSTERDAM LIFE But Amsterdam lIe is not seen In the palace or the churches or the gallery It Is In Kalverstraat a narrow crooked street not at all beautiful yet forming the principal promenade of the town Every night about S oclock the people begin to surge through this street In large numbers but In a remarkably I quiet manner Their walking and talking I talk-ing make only a murmur but are kept up until 11 oclock The crowds < are greatest between 9 and 1030 oclock and on Saturday nights carriages are allowed to go but one way through this street namely from the Dam south 1C by mistake a driver should enter the street he could not turn round but must continue to the end of j the street The guide books say no carriages 1 I car-riages are allowed in the street after nightfall but that Is a mistake They do occasionally go through but It Is i I difficult driving for the pedestrians take up the whole street However In Amsterdam as in Paris vehicles have the right of way and If a person Is run over It Is not the driver that is arrested and fined but the one Injured for being In the way PERFUME IN PLENTY In the shop windows are small fancy perfume booths of every variety and I wondered why perfume bottles should i be displayed In such numbers My curiosity was soon satisfied Sunday at church several girls sat next me Suddenly Sud-denly the one nearest me spoke to me In Dutch but neither my French nor German 1 Ger-man enabled me to understand Finally after her putting her hand on my chatelaine bag and then to her nose I I concluded she wanted my handkerchief This was a little startling to be sure but I produced the desired article She then doped it with perfume that made me consign It to my bag as soon as I dared for politeness cake But I learned aftenvard I had made a great I mistake In not smelling of it at frequent fre-quent intervals It Is quite the custom to carry tniall bottles of cologne to pass around to friends as our forefathers did their snuff boxes One night when I was being entertained with others by a family I had met four bottles were passed in succession by four different people and we sat the whole evening smelling our handkerchiefs Instead of playing guessing games Which Js the worse QUEER CUSTO SIt S-It Is cuttomary for the young men and women to walk arm In arm and even clasping hands whether In broad daylight or at night The women of the lower clashes bareheaded as In mot continental towns can be seen at all I limes carrying their packages under < their aprons The maids appear In the streets always In costume light muslin dresses similar to the nurses dress In f our country and small white caps < < with I a very full ruchlng Young girls up tot j to-t 38 years of age let their hair hang un braided and only the forward half lied fo that It falls loosely over their shoulders I presume they would not I object It it curled naturally but they make no effort to curl it At IS they put up their hair and are young ladles but neither they nor the young men can marry without the consent of their parents fi l pa-rents until they are 23 f HEAD DRESS OF WOMEN t 1 The older wonifi h continue to wear the J head drew of the provinces from which they have come This consists in n gen eral of gold or silver plates fitted to the BldcH of the head and varying in size f sometimes meeting on top and in the back Over the plates Is worn a lace covering which according to the t3 province Is finished with a short full ruffle or very very wide frills or lonff cape falling to the shoulders or with fife white wings This Is not removed for going Into the street but the bonnet Is i worn on lop of IL Imagine how ridiculous a woman looks with a little bonnet perched on top of all this lace and gold PATTRIlN I AFTER AMERICANS The bend drc e s however III l already passing and bj another generation will probably have entirely disappeared for the Dutch admire the Americans very much and imitate them in many ways American shoos hare been Introduced but the iidinlrlng Dutch have been imposed Im-posed upon by the American drummers drum-mers who have put off upon them nil the cast away stork of pointed toes as la dernlcre mode AMSTERDAM FIRE DEPARTMENT Another thing In which they attempt to follow America la In the equipment of lire departments Tt is I said that Amsterdam has the best In Europe They may hal copied our equipments but they have not copied our haste One clay an alarm of lire was turned In the harness hopped on to tin t horse and was fastened At this moment the Chief drove up and ordered In another pair of horses lxfore proceeding J to time lire HIRED MOURNERS I Men dressed In dead black 1 wearing Prince Albert coals decorate with heavy black cords are familiar I figureR on the ntrcct I once saw them In their professional I capacity and corned they wore hired mourners There are five classes of funerals varying In price trom the fifth or cheapest at about lLnO to the first at 3110 These prices include every expense The details arc arranged by the funeral manager or director di-rector The first class of funeral means a fine black hearse with elegant funereal trappings for the horses two carriages and about thirtyfive pro fcrslonal mourners walking after The fifth class calls for only one carriage and four mourners The city buries those whoso friends cannot pay for a fifthclass funeral lAS l-AS TO THE SCHOOLS I Although all pcbnols wore closed for the summer vacation 1 succeeded In getting get-ting come Information concerning them All children are compelled to go to school until they are 13 Those whose parents cannot afford to pay the 4 t cents a week necessary for the secondclass schools go to the low free schools They begin at G and are expected to finish the prescribed course by the Him they are IK Should any pupil fall to finish the course by that age he must leave without finishing A pupil bright enough to complete the course before 13 may withdraw upon the completion of It Tlc kindergarten Is not free but costs about 6 cents a week To go through the high schools costs In the neighborhood of SCO School IH hold every day In ho week except Sunday with a half holiday on Wednesday and Saturday There are three weoks vacation vaca-tion In the summer two weeks at Raster and a week at Christmas Special holidays are given when the sieves are put up In the fall and for four days during the cleaning of the schoolhouses school-houses in the spring MANY DELIGHTFUL TRIPS Our knowledge of Holland Is not confined con-fined to Amsterdam There arc a number num-ber of delightful trips to take l from the city Haarlem which Is only a short ride has a flue pnrk with beautiful beech trees It Is of great Interest hortloulturally being the center of bulb plant Industry Then It Is at Haar lem that one pets tho best Idea of the painter Fran Hals < Our most interesting in-teresting trip was that to Markon To be sure it rained at Intervals during the day and was cloudy all the time rather discouraging l to the one after snapshots snap-shots Instead of taking a Cooks excursion much cursion steamer we went In a more romantic manner being conveyed by canal I boat a part of the way and then by 1 train na far as Monnlkj ndani a picturesque village with odd little fisherman shop Here we wore mot by a I man from Marken in his native costume of short blue blouse baggy coarse white linen knlckorborkors heavy woollen stockings and wooden shoes lie led us through winding streets to his boat and snllcd us across the arm of the Zuydcr ce to Marken The fishing I I craft lined up In the little harbor with their flying pennants and nets hung up to dry Were a forest of masts IN MARKEN being setup Tho houses are very quaint up nn piles enclosed with weatherboarding weather-boarding to make a sort of stable or chickenhouse The roofs are either thatched or tiled The rooms are very small and compact the beds being In the wall as described In my last letter The women look utJllly and clumsllv dressed in their very full abort skirts without gores two and sometimes three being worn one above the other antI their two bodice r One of these Is I usually of some plain stuff and the othci figured Their white caps from under which protrude a short straight stubby fringe of hair In front and a long curl on either side are fitted FO closely 1 to their heads that the only add to the general uncomfortable appearance of their dress Wooden shoes whloh they always remove before ontoilng tho house and heavy woolen stockings HUp those worn by the mon complete their costume At Markon as throughout Europe the peasants uo a yoke across their shoulders for carrying burdens Altogether the Marken fisherfolk art the most picturesque we have thus far soon Mrs Jennings has reached Bnipsel and will sail with her son William In about ten days for New York 1 JESSIE GODDARD I d |