Show II Catherine Talbotu Foresees a Future For the Ruche r I I STARIS Aug 151 have told you P lately about the prevalence of gi the fascinating ruche I have I L It on excellent authority that everything will be ruched for the next six months All the fete frocks show the revival of this dainty fashion Muslin taffeta and chiffon are all trimmed with ruches of various thick nesses and I am told that velvet also will be treated the same way Yet in spite of flounces and ruches and all sorts of frippery around the feet cloth sklrjs are kept very plain at the top and everything indicates the return of the tight skirt popularly known as the pullback at least as far down as the J knees Then it is extended to the breadth of about twelve yards around the feet Truly this sort of skirt must be cut by a modiste who is a genius as well as an artist How beautiful Is a mixture of the 1830 and fifteenth century fashlpns The colorings are so exquisite and the workmanship work-manship so beautiful Bodices are nearly near-ly all made in blouse fashion the waistline waist-line defined by a pointed sash or band All the best frocks worn by the ele gantes are exquisitely graceful and thesc soft clinging fabrics can stand any amount of tucking and ruching Taffeta both in black and pale shades is enjoying a great popularity for fete gowns and I various aternoon entertainments Trouvllle this year has been very gay and the locks seen there perfectly i marvelous A friend of mine writes from there that it has been a red j seaon and that it made her warm toil to-il look at the frocks but judging from what one sees at the leading tailors it appears to be a white season and the Indications are that white will be worn qulto Into the autumn Red is very pretty at the seaside especially In linen and voile One frock of red voile is made quite plain with two bands of a red taffeta running round the skirt in a sImple Greek pattern also down the S front of the blouse shaped waist French sailor and plateau hats are worn with the walking skirt Picture I hats with ostrich plumes are reserved re-served for fete wear As I told you in my last letter strings are much worn The 1830 bonnet will be among the autumn fashions and it is said that brown will be the prevailing color although tho beautiful shades of pastel bluo will not be easily dispensed with I hear that the opening of the J casino at Dlnards was exceedingly well attended at-tended and that many English and American women were there There are somo pretty Americans over here buying the largest quantity of garments I gar-ments for every occasion In fact I wonder how they can take about trunks enough to carry them They have such dainty lingerie and morning robes They seem to prefer beautiful fabrics simply made and are very complete In their toilets Their petticoats per haps are more elaborate than any thing else They affect the tailor ninde for nearly all outdoor occasions reserving the elaborate frocks for afternoon after-noon wear J t must describe at least one of the 1 charming toilets which I saw In preparation prepa-ration for AIx and 1 Homburg This was t In white china f silk Inserted with mc t ualllonn of black chantilly lace with an outer edge of coarse cream colored I Irish crochet The bodice was made in blouse fashion with a double pelerine i collar cut open showing a vest made or lace medulllops The shaped hip l J piece was also outlined with these medallions me-dallions They were continued down the front and around a flounce which was put on Just below the knee with a series of gaugings A pretty shaped gold waistband finished the costume Gold and silver waistbands are a feature fea-ture just now though to my mind the q t tJ I I I f A I if 24 jO 1 c34 I i WHAT THE PAEISIAIT FASHIONABLES ARE WEARING t t black panne belt Is one of the most charming fashions The exit from Paris at thy beginning begin-ning of the Trouvllle season < vae more marked than ever this year owing to the lengthened stay made In the capital by some of the society leaders The nearness to Paris of many of the chateaux cha-teaux makes a rapid visit in the automobile auto-mobile possible for special occasions Tile dress worn therefore during a stay in the country Is almost the same as for the city There is a studied neff liffoe in the donning of these costumes cos-tumes and In the lounge dress adopted by the men At tho same time a Parl slenn displays as much art In cowninu herself for the country as for the citys more fashionable functions The linens which have been trimmed with the most beautiful l laces artd embroideries are being replaced for the early autumn by linens less embellished Simple stitching and a jour work or colored embroidery hov ever render them quite as attractive as those seen earlier in the season With a white plaited skirt and blouse for the morning a linen collar and lace cravat are worn or a plain neckband of black ribbon Is crossed in front falling from a clasp in two tasseled ends Another pretty I effect Is obtained by outlining the linen 01 batiste shoulder collar In coral pink embroidery A jjlain white canvas linen of a coarse weave makes a cry stylish dress the bolero and skirt being I trimmed with braiding In rather a severe design Braiding In soft sou I tache on a linen gown is remarkably I pretty and not the least heavy looking I as one might Imagine Bright colored leather belts worn with a plain blouse of cambric or linen are very smart Scarlet green and blue are fashionable color for these popular belts while a cravat and shoes of tho same color Generally complete the costume I Lace still holds an important place in the toilet for afternoon fete or country coun-try visiting Antique lace which is very suitable for linen and cotton fabrics is much worn Even voile dresses are trimmed with iL Colored laces are also uocd I have seen them In pastel blues brown tan and red Among some toilets made for a well known chaLelaino were three which struck me as being particularly pretty The first was in ecru canvas linen The I plaited skirt was trimmed with scarlet and while a jour work and also inserted I in-serted with white gulpure The long basqued coat had a triple lace shoulder cape and was decorated with large button pastelles of white braid The second was a practical trotteutio costume cos-tume of blue alpaca The plaited skirt came from a hip piece with a front panel fastened with tabs which were piped with colored linen and decorated dec-orated with little buttons Buttons also decorated the plaits at intervals The bolero had a pelerine collar and was trimmed also with strappings and groall o buttons A high celnture of black taffeta taf-feta flnlahed a white blouse worn beneath be-neath the bolero The third was a dressy toilet in pastel mauve linon de sole A broad entre deux of ecru filet lace crossed the shoulders while panels of mauve taffeta trimmed with broderie anglalse down the skirt simulated a tunic The indications are that both skirts and coats for the autumn will be shorter short-er I should not be the least bit surprised sur-prised if next summer we were wearing short sprightly looking muslins for tle trailing frocks are already tinged l j f q i I with a savor of yesterday The short I muslins will be charming enough 1C they are not stiffened but rendered springy Instead by astlffenpd petticoat It seems Inevitable that with short skirts should come also a firmer skirt line Parisians arc at present much enamored enam-ored of liberty a beautiful soft lustrous satin I saw the other day in Paqulns a pale blue liberty frock vslth scroll ornanfcnto ot fine blond lace In sertion on the skirt It had elbow sleeves of blond lace and spotted net and creme guipure about the decolle tage Scrollwork has caught the fancy over here and it is carried out by lace or taffeta ruches I saw a frock of double white chiffon the scrollwork done In little frllllngs of inch wide val enclennes The skirt was gathered around the waist with corded gauGlngs and the little frills repeated on the bodice terminated each Hide of the front In wheellike rosettes with paste button centers Another frock in very fine pink voile had four sweet little narrow ruches of taffeta of the same color running around the bottom of the skirt The low bodice was bordered by three lines of the pink silk ruching each lino twirled round to form a loop at the top of the elbow sleeves The ruche shares popularity with the wide tuck set two or three at Intervals around the skirt The up to date skirt is gathered Into the waist round the aides and back The gathering need not be very full and the skirts may be loaded at the base to make them fall straight I The dwarf sash is another feature of the frock What cunning little things they are these taffeta belts with their clever little bows and short ends at the back I saw a simple pale gray voile the other day which owed the most of its charm to the dwarf sash and cravat also a cunningly contrived thing of taffeta and panne pipings with lace XL had however a Greek key arrangement ar-rangement around the skirt and bodice and illustrated another feature of the gathered skirt which of course must have its trimmings running round instead In-stead of lengthwise to the distress of the suffering stout woman against whom all fashions appear to militate at present CATHERINE TALBOT |