| Show ti j E rflJ r > jg r < l t N o I I 111 S1r j f 4 J 1 r f 4l f j71 r I 1 r 0 J 1 I i 1 c ril t i r t i c ° tr1 l AO j r i s t 1 sI 1 j fill r d t 11 t k 0 1W 1 W l IiI c Ii-I JJ 1 1 1 I t J J y I J r 1 i q C j J1 ti A J1I JJf 4 + f < r > fi i T f VJii r VJiit r 4 PECULIARITIES OF EASTER FINERY f The Easter gown of the present time Is without question the tailor i street I gown although the fashion now calls for a much more elaborate stylo than waD formerly termed tanor mad These first spring gowns absorb a loC of time and attention yet women S wlio I o take an Interest Jn being well and becomingly gowned consider time wen spent if satisfactory results are obtained These same costumes are delightfully conspicuous by force of contrast with the more somber and asa as-a rule more severe street gowns of the winter White silk costumes are I now considered essential to the peace 01 mlndof everywoman the spring i street gown must Invariably be composed com-posed cloth or cheviot much lighter In weight than the winter costumes and as a rule of a lighter color al thqugh for several years there has been prejudice In favor of dark cloth street gowns Long lines and severe effects are the 1 fashion this year SklrtB flare around I the foot and by meaSI ment are much wider than those of last year I but they must fit close to tho figure until within a short distance of > the foot of the skirt The trimmings must I befialn effect nothing to break the flat surface and the care taken to insure a perfect lit over the hips is remarkable I re-markable The Jacket and skirt Is the favorite model and It must certainly be conceded is a most practical one for It gives the opportunity to wear the1 charmingly dainty separate waists and the Jacket is necessary In the treacherous days of the spring The trimmings of Jackets give the one note of color and lighten up the entire gown The fancy waistcoat and ree1 rEfurnish > rE-furnish a capital opportunity for the display of individual taste A charming model Is a gown of light colored cloth with the satin finish so fashionable this season The skirt Is trimmed with stitched bands of the cloth put on to make the wearer look tall and slight This style of skirt can be made with either drop skirts or with the lining sewed Into the seams but t for warm weather there Is no question that the drop skirt is the cooler and lighter > The Jacket is tlghtflltlnc rather longer than the jackets which have been fashionable all winter and Is trimmed with stitched bands carefully placed to emphasise the lines of the figure A dOublcjDreasted waistcoat WtthJ gold buttons is 1 made either of white cloth or faille and the icveis are also of white turned back to show a dainty white blouse waist with line ofjblack velvet The sleeves are quite 1 small and long trimmed with stitched hands and gold buttons This same design can be copied In any color and i will look equally well although C the claret color is one of the newest fash Ions All winter for reception wear have been noticed the elaboratelycon structed cloth costumes trimmed with lace braiding cut work and cm broidery The most delicate shadcp > of color have been used and now for spring the fashion Is perfected In a most attractive manner JIn a gown of this description the skirt is un ubmlly long even for these days of long skirts but Is extremely graceful I In Its shape finished with narrow tucks at the back and half way around the I hips These tucks extend for some distance down the skirt keeping all I fullness as far back and as fiat as 1 possible The front of the skirt Ih plain but around the foot are two bands of heavy braiding giving the effect of an overskirt Peacock blue cloth IS the color with the braiding inn in-n black always a good contrast i + The Jacket of this costume Is especially t r es-pecially noticeable A round bolero n I embroidered black to match i the trimming on the skirt is i worn over an exaggerated long walstcd waistcoat of white moire and revers and collar I o ot are also of the moire the waistcoat having the effect of a corselet The I Jacket is worn open to show the blouse S wrvlst Long plain sleeves finished at 1 J the wrists with braiding are rather t severe but quite In keeping with the r entltte costume which has no lace or fajfey trimming such as Is used so I much on other styles gowns d Long coats have proved themselves I HO useful it will be many months bo fore they are out of fashion For spring and summer they are quite aGo much In dehiand as they were lorthe winter season although their sphere usefulness will be limited to carriage N G0 riage traveling and evening wear For 7 a young girl charming long coat IB of frieze cloth lined with cream whlta ° satin It fits close to the figure at the S sides and back but han the loose straight front and the skirts are wide fthc O l enough to allow the garment to be l worn over a wide skirt Double capes K + the upper of the cloth the lower of rdr1l red velvet collar and cuffs of velvet trim the coat most becomingly making mak-ing It more youthful than If nil In one color The cloak docs not quite coverS cover-S S the gown worn beneath but the extra length can be added If BO desired without laWr with-out in any way Interfering with the r h I 1 style This model can also be copied I In sijk or satin for Ji evening wrap A Imil tars note 1c4 J be discerned In somo of the spring styles There are costumes of the military blue cloth trimmed with facings of red and with gilt buttons but as a rule these are pot popular and are a trifle conspicuous conspicu-ous Figure 4 1 shows the style treated In a most charming fashion The material ma-terial Is a navy blue serge made with flaring skirt trimmed at the side with c long lines of narrow black soutache braid and at the foot straps of the braid fastened with round gold buttons but-tons The jacket Is In what is called mess shape fastened at the throat butr r open at the waist finished with a bias band of blue or red cloth and trimmed with narrow straps of braid and round gold buttons Tightfitting sleeves finished with the gold and trimmed with the braid and buttons complete an exceedingly smart Ir I rather severe costume Around the hem of the skirt is a band of the cloth and if so clashed these bands can be of black taffeta or satin Instead of red or white without the style of the l gown being in any Way disturbed This skirt will hang best W miade with lining sewed In with the seams The flaring skirt is agalni illustrated in figure No5 It is exceedingly plain trimmed only at the side with a band of white and a stitched band of the cloth which after going flown the side Is continued around the skirL The jacket Is quite elaborate lu 1 design a short bolero with white < waistcoat large revers and a band of white at the elbow An Infner waistcoat ajso of white Is laced with black velvet over a I white liberty satin blouse that has two Prows of gold buttons at the throat On the waistcoat and sleeves arc also gold buttons This gown Is made of light tan cloth but can be copied in any color not excepting black although there Is so much white on the Jacket the contrast of white and black would be rather startling and crude and l a better effect ef-fect would be gained If black were used by having another material preferably pre-ferably moire or black for the waistcoat waist-coat and trimmings Figure 6 illustrates one of the smartest smart-est costumes of the season and while originally designed for a cloth gown It is equally adapted for silk or linen The skirt made with drop skirt has a plain narrow front breadth Around the sides and back Is a gathered i flounce trimmed with bands of lace or braid The jacket longer than the Eton Is short on the hips anfl h1 i s worn open to show a folded l waistcoat of satin Tho collar andrcers are trimmed to match the skirt and the sleeve jn gathered at the IrJsllnto a straight band trimming matching that on the rest of the costume |
