| Show I I i TEST SN l P S I I The long Narrow Cape Now Assumes the Lead for Fall I I I and Winter W Empire Coats Blouse Jackets and Robespierre Etons All Favored for the Fall Styles New York Sept 19lhls is the season i sea-son at which there is an embarrassment of riches In I the way of new styles They The-y shops arc brimming with such bewildering bewil-dering and beautiful displays that itjs I hard to foresee what particular phase I of fashion will lead Every oric nowadays t now-adays however Is I giving tlirought to I tho subject of their wraps for the coming com-ing cold weather and In this line espe t J daily is there a wide field of choice I Pitted jackets box coals blouses em piie cloaks long capes and short i Robespierre coats with their smart overlapping capo collars seem all lobe lo-be conspicuously smart nnd chic and bewilder our judgment The Jaunty blouse jackets and the long capes arc possibly receiving more attention just now than the others but certain It Is that all of these styles arc good and reliable and will be sure to be In favor all winter In Jotting down notes oC the fashion heic and there among the shops I was particularly struck with the strong leaning toward long straight lines in the cuts of the latest wraps displayed pale tarn gray and cardinal seem to be the prime colors for the season and black is also Is tremendously popular The latest and newest thing which has appeared Is undoubtedly the long plain cape which reaches quite to the knee and sometimes below These are severely plain and straight save for their rolling velvet collars which are gorgeously broidered and aided with gold and applique Two of these models were extremely striking one being of the new shade of cardinal which Is rich and warm without being garish I This cardinal was of tho heaviest broadcloth not flaring but following the lines of the long box coats of last season The severity and simplicity of the garment hanging so snugly I about the figure In straight folds to the knee then with efCectlvc contrast tliej laige collar of black velvet closely and elaborately braided with gold wdbiau entirely new departure xk The second model was cut very much upon thesame i lines as the first with the variation of a shoulder cape which however made a marked difference In the outline for it was very circular and came just to the edge of the shoulder wlmc it stood out in pretty defiance For shoulders judged 1 too sloping by their fair owners this second would be preferred especially as Its sweeping grace was preserved by the extra length of the lower cape adroitly added by the designer to overcome the broadening broad-ening tendency of tht upper cape It fell well below the knees and the odges were stitched in widely spaced lines which seemed cR refreshing departure from the close stitcher IPS so generally in use The black velvet of the rolling collar with Its gilt galloon trimming served to bring out the deep blue color of the cloth which was of a shade so dark as to look almost black at the first glance This gold trimming appears ap-pears upon everything and is wonderfully wonder-fully pleasing Another wrap seemed to be a sort of compromise between or combination of the sacuue coat and cape It was formed by the overlapping capes The under cape was scarlet and reached nearly to the bottom of the skirt the upper one falling over it with a llttlo more fullness and reaching a few Inches Inch-es below the knee The material was black broadcloth lined with Avhlte satin and lines of black stitching finished the borders of the capes The collar was faced within with white satin which was appliqued with gill galloons The lower cape which was almost along a-long aacque was cut out at the sides to allow the arm free play and the full upper cape had an engaging way of lying back disclosing Its striking lining lin-ing Among the new models for the blouse Jackets was a charming affair of tan corduroy which was finished with stitched strappings of broadcloth It fastened at one side the overlapping front being cutln scallops which were outlined with the stitched cloth strap pi jigs each scallop having a loop of cord beneath It which fitted over a corresponding row of smart brass buttons but-tons This chic corduroy jacket be longs to that very small but valuable I class of feminine apparel the duties of which arc not strictly laid l down and bound by Iron rule with usefulness curtailed for It could be worn on a golf course with a rainyday skirt or Ito I-to a matinee without too greatly infringing in-fringing tho laws of dress at any point I A long carriage wrap of black taffeta I found very attractive It was In the I empire style with the whole skirt tucked lengthwise Vide lapels collar I and cuffs and little belt high under the arms all of white lace over white silk upon which was embroidered avery a-very light pattern Jet beads formed a frame suggestive aj t once of a pretty woman Some of the ncvvPAils models show the short oversklrl which has been j 30 long foreshadowed but not until now really presented It remains to be seen whether this style will be received re-ceived with favor here in the prettiest pretti-est of French models the little overskirt over-skirt is more of a suggestion than an actuality forming a short apron drawn up under a wide boxpleat In the back This overskirt Is a very mild form being be-ing only slightly drawn up In the back vIth very little fullness nnd It Is bordered bor-dered with the embroidery which is used In trimming the edges of the gown In sporting wraps the white golf coat seems to be rivaling the established pink one and it Is easy to guess the reason when one considers for a moment mo-ment the demands the scarlet coat makes upon the coloring of its wearer Not many women can don their golf coats without having their faces temporarily obliterated by the glare of the color Many of the new shirt waists will be found especially adapted to the white coat Soft white flannel with pale lined dots stripes or plaids will be very popular There are also many Scotch plaids shown In bright colors and these have flat brass buttons ornamented orna-mented with the thistle |
