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Fi j i 1 Y a 3 L r i iC 1 i ld ir j Vi 4 41 C i J t lr i 7 IN Ii i rf f J j ji Ii IiI 5 i J 0 k I 4 1 ii PARIS ARIS P 06 OG separate coat is forming a cult all of THE T its own not only themore the more or less clabo elaborate elaborate rate te wrap wr wran i worn worn over oyer dressi r sort of costume but coats of o true overcoat t variety which a few years years ago ugo were ere rare exceptions to the And the new coats are stunning Both coats showta de dehe i Tided return of t the he real influences influences in that thoroughly English way vay th that tois is a oat and U in w di weather like some some sort of b a shell impervious evento even evento evento to a mild deluge New N w fashions are arc conspicuous fora for la greater shapeliness than we have seen se seen h in 1 separate coats for many manya a day Even the most of them conforms to this it is true but bu still enough to be significant of the change of styles r Although the Empire in ir its concrete form has disappeared it has left behind cart in of its char characteristic characteristic characteristic details Perhaps an inverted box pleat between the shoulders sho or short capes that iha match t l i be eloquent of Empire EIPP re influences Even in box coats the same period makes itself itsel feltin felt fel feltin felin in an odd length l which reaches just to the hips h ps But the short wai waist t high i belt bert and curious curve curve that were originally inseparable from styles that echoed the th e Empire e have disappeared d care from these th s horter oats coats and the long ones as we 1 1 r Materials generally gene ally speaking are smooth al although although although though there th e tire are more rough effects than have been worn w rn for fork or several seasons English and Scotch ch Such materials are maderup made up in inthe the simplest ways Tie black and gray check pictured shows a return of raglan r glan shoulders cut on more generous generous ge 1 rous than tha we have ever known them theme to be before bri re Tl esl eves end in a slight puff jur just above the cuff There Th re is a wide inverted box pleat starting between f the shoulders This model is made of o rough Eng English 1 lish tweed tw ed in skeleton fashion except for the silk lining of o yoke oke and sleeves necessary to make it i slip on easily It is intended merely as an odd coat for traveling or to brave the worst sort of weather in inAn inAn inAn An entirely ely different idea for carrying out in inn rin n equally rough material matel al is shown in tho the fitted ulster lster at the extreme extreme extremA right Itis It is by the way one of the most useful coats imaginable especially if you are one of those sensible mortals who hav hd v ving lug ing in to be out of o doors in all sorts of weather real realize izo ize the value of being well dressed at all times The material mat rial of which the ulster is made a blue and an gr green green e 1 Scotch S check waterproof w t cloth is saved from being so heavy as to be a drag dragg g upon its wearer bv by being cut shorter Short than some of o the coats cOlts of 0 lighter weight materials The lining li inQ of heavy satin which reaches below the hips insures graceful draping and sea seans and flat fiat hem are arc neatly 31 bound ith bias strips t of silk i I With it i a little black hat should be worn For women to whom extreme trem tailor styles are are trying and there re such P lentY nty o of i coats coa ts built upon pon less severe lines have been 1 designed As graceful ul draping is an essential of such styles thinner waterproof cloths or silks are used for the more utilitarian sort of suits When however it is merely a question of a or some other luxurious form forra of separate coat broadcloth is the only material worn w rn and that by younger yo nger or older women indiscriminately indiscriminately indiscriminately Warm reds and sage greens are liked best by the younger women and for the older ones mes black or gunmetal gray finished in any case with witha a a touch of rich black velvet or braid That touch of black is becoming better under understood understood stood sand and consequently cons qu oftener o tener used Adroitly d it seems s to point the whole color scheme Last of all like the prima donna on an opera program comes the jacket of melton meltona a welcome visitor after Rafter an absence of many years In its new cut c t it shows ai SL L of cloth really a a con continuation contin continuation tin of the fronts which extends eway way r round the bottom of o the coat an idea d his echoed upon the cuffs cu the more practical covert sue suc iS substituted r ally edges edge are stitched bed and and pressed flat H tB Taut with mel melton melton ton tl t e raw ratio edges e ge are merely 1 trimmed smoothly cloth b yI the he tva co in a do en ni b r 3 new ne v shades probably more than that like naturals natural color colored d linen which ranges from a n atan atan tan with in its composition co to toa toa a deep shade almost that of slate Anions Among ahem ill it is possible p to tor get a ph becoming to any coloring c l ring these thew or or o the seen so often in i n English perhaps the thee easiest e siest of all for the majority of women to wear wear But back to that coat t again gain Henvy pearl buttons and arid a collar of finest black velvet give it the last I effective tive touch But be sure to do what wh t little machine c inc stitching there is th t shows with silk r Imagine such a at coat co t with a R d black skirt and stiff black hat t and arid then o you wonder that separate A coats have become bacome b c mes so much the thing x The hats that are pre worn w rn with m are as thoroughly distinctive dis in their is the coats themselves selve ck of toner than r anything else e se sebut but black made mad sane by daringly poised p wings arid and by ribbons tied so that every loop and end perks out in in an aggressive yet thoroughly well bred l lUn Under Un er the brim b im upon th tha bandeau is sure to be bl found malihe maline looped and bunched until it mak makes s a soft s rt cloudy cl tidy i frame arne for the hair With covert collect it cloth clotIl ands and d melton suits s its are aie often seen seen bats hafs of brown brow brown i but even then the touch tuch pf of black J is i In oe a J Ev ED BD EDI EDt D 4 I l I t M ki 1 if t A tJ t I to tol toI toJ L I i I J t 1 Y r 4 r I 14 ri ril 4 l w II |
