| Show o yr w a r d f 1 t J 11 1 I r t 4 p PAGE E OR DRESSMAKER S A E t MR t J J 1 I 7 v r V y Light Summer Wraps of Cool Pongee With Wi Ij I Big Sleeves and Dainty Lac T Trimmings HE distinctive wrap for or summer fEE wear tills this season Is la the th three f quarter coat No stylish ward wardrobe wardrobe wardrobe robe Is I complete without it It Itis is 18 the unmistakable ball hall mark of ot the fashionably gowned woman Of silk or linen or pongee it itIs Is ornate and dressy lace Ince trimmed elaborately buttoned or hand embroidered One most mos noticeable feature of the gar garment garment garment ment Is the e sleeves They are the largest of the largo larco sleeves that have yet appeared ap appeared appeared Some Some extend to the tho wrist where they are finished with deep roll back bade duffs Some Borne are edged with a frill above which great puffs hang from tram the elbow Others are ore of length turned back bade tram from the wrist puff putt of ot the gowns sleeve beneath And occasionally there is 18 s no cuff or finish but the sleeve hangs bangs on the tb arm ann like a small skirt with the th fullness merely gathered in at the armhole Nor does it look like such a mall skirt either On the contrary the tho wearer presents the appearance of at carrying three full tulI skirts one on either arm ann and the third between them hanging banging from rom her shoulders For the coat itself is s loose and full tuU and almost almOl t unfitted to the figure One other feature the summer cummer coat coet al always always always ways has namely the fiat turnover col collar collar colar lar or cape And the ornamentation most desired is the lace cape rape It Is s the old fashioned deep drooping lace shoulder cape that our grandmothers wore HaPP Sappy Happy la is the girl of ot today who has such an v 1 heirloom Every family is taking tory Lori of its Ita attic treasures In eager search for just such a find In several in instances Instances stances atances the thee quest has baa been rewarded and the fortunate possessor possessor r feels more than repaid for the hour she spent pent in overhauling old ld trunks How However However However ever it one has baa no such euch dear Inheritance e ethe the shops come to her aid with a modern reproduction which answers every purpose pur purpose purpose pose and lacks Jacks only the sentiment at attaching attaching taching to the lace handed banded down from tram a 8 woman of at a bygone ne generation g 4 s For the white linen coat flowered dowered inns mus muslin lin Un is 18 the correct lining A dainty garment gar garment ga ment of this kind pictured here has the lining in green and violet pattern A stole which covers covers the shoulders and bangs hangs In long ends to t below the waist waistline waistline line Is 15 heavily embroidered lit in gt Steen n The little cape which encircles the neck above It Is all alt overstitched and over the cape capela capeIs la Is a flat collar of ot e The sleeves ves have turnback cuffs embroidered in n green The fullness of ot the coat Is laid in box pleats which are stitched in place The coat is worn over overa a white gown and the hat Is a big white chip with a huge green parrot against the front of ot the crown Hats Eats by the way wat ate are get getting getting getting ting larger and flatter with the thep passing s g of or each summer month White linen Is very smart but t pongee and black silk are rather In inthe the lead yead for tor coat materials J JA A coat of pongee Intended for carriage wear is laid in stitched side pleats all the way about the figure It has h s a double shoulder cape elaborately stitched The revers which open oJen from frola fro the front are WOMEN AJ AX GAMBLER By Helen Mathers GAMB 9 of carts cards car ll round or otherwise played between dinner d and bedtime b may be frankly admitted one of ot the most beneficial an things going for fo it t does not taX tT your brain you cant giggle while playing It or even in indulge indulge Indulge your temper unless you wish to be vulgar and the more more noise and laughter there is the more exhilarated you will be and aid the sounder you will sleep for a relaxation that has completely put out of or your mind all aU the problems pr b lems disappointments and annoyances of ot the day dap The zest test of the amusement lies In the game itself In the skill you ou display In at 1 It the tho undeserved unde luck you may get it is only when the gambling element comes cornea in that you are Inoculated with a fever Instead of ot agreeably diverted by a passing amusement and may live to curse one of the greatest boons ever r vouchsafed to us ua 0 S I J t r j 15 S SI I 1 t 41 I e 1 1 1 I r 1 f I I I i d I i iI I a I Ir Iv I v J r I I It If t f r i l l I 1 P 1 I 1 t r 0 v i t 1 I s 1 I 1 1 1 1 I i i I 1 I 1 1 I I 1 i I J It II I S St II f t for killing time Tho The large sums of ot money won at cards by women in society today go to partly satisfy the tho de demands dei demands i mands of at a useless retinue that habit has made second nature i to them though it Is In what a woman can do without not notI I what she has and covets that she sho Is rich Once she cuts her herself herS herself self S elf free treo from the doings of ot her set sho she may ev even een en be allowed wed to retain her It is to obtain ready money without which even the most moal experienced cannot keep pace with their fel fellows fell feli l i lows that women nowadays gamble with such feverish en energy energy ergy ersy being In this respect re far tar worse offenders than men who T have h ve some sense of ot proportion and do not confound their views Mews with their everyday habits to the tho Inevitable dislocation dislocation tion of at them alL allI Many women appear to devote their whole lives to gambling I You meat mc t them studying a text book on bridge as if f it were a Bible and if l you look in at LIlY any smart club In I mediately after luncheon you will trill find the very ones who only parted morning after an sitting at one or other othero o of Gt their houses hard at bridge till teatime and arid from tram that J t straight on till It Is time timo to dress for dinner By Dy nine nino they are aro again at their consuming passion as of f the dinner and supper parties In certain sets are mere mera pegs on which to hang the game and the only variation to thinking and playing pla ing it is to watch the tape and this Is 18 only endured because It t is an on even een greater gamble But they pay they ey pay pa as women all aU along the tho thoe e have to pay for fot their faults much more for tor their vices as men never I do The bridge woman by her faded face her features by her ber pitiable state of nerves the whisky and soda that she sh drinks Instead d of ot tea the ceaseless effort eUort by drug and stimulant to string herself harsel up to the necessary gambling i pitch pit and d you know that nothing short of a miracle can save sava t I that t t woman woman though a 0 male gambler can and otter does do s save savo himself I How H OW of often en n do society so ty women WO women m en make I bridge pay In J n the th long loss Sun n tit t Possessed pos ed as a they are by an I evil power that blinds bUnds their theia I t fY ey have no o caution and naturally n rany get the worst wor t of t things firings Fd and X id d bridge o is riot not only the th most attractive same g gains JD of ot skill sUl ever evero everi everL i I L o i covered with Russian Bussian lace and nd a knot of the lace hangs at the point where they t er close The fullness of ot the sleeves is con confined confined on fined at the wrists and the deep turn turnover turnover turnover over cuffs are covered with Russian la lace lacq With this little coat Is worn a large white hat wreathed in pale pink poppies t Richest ot of all are lire the black taffeta coats coals An elaborate and beautiful one has bas a Mexican lace cape c pe and the full tull sleeves 51 ves have a lace lac cur cuff from from which there Is a deep fall fail of ot lace The fhe he sleeves are taught caught with three white cro crocheted crocheted crocheted buttons and the lace cape is s held heldon heldon heldon on either side of ot the front by an orna ornamented ornamented ornamented crocheted button from which de depend depend pend little white tassels tasse The hat which is white is la covered with a mass of green leaves For traveling purposes nothing Is s more serviceable than a pongee coat and of ot course foi for such occasions It Is very plain ly tailor made It Is usually preferred also alsoto to lengthen the to t full tuU length so that it shall better protect the gown beneath One such traveling coat oat is ornamented simply with machine stitch stitching ing The three little lIWe shoulder capes the th odd cut revers in front and the frill of pongee that finishes the sleeves atthe at the wrist are all edged with w th rows of machine stitching White pearl buttons are aTe used to fasten the garment down the front The hat selected select for wear with thus this coat coatis is of ot burnt straw and brown velv velvet et The white linen coat is cool and comfortable com comfortable comfortable for morning wear w r It Is ve v ery yap ap appropriately made with no n t ornamentation save the stitched cape and revers revers ers and tha stitched cuffs t r J JQ 41 k kI l I 1 i 1 t 1 1 t 1 I 1 1 1 r r i I 1 1 1 i 1 J I I i 1 i 1 i 1 1 1 t 1 1 f 1 f t 1 I I 1 t i iy y ti I It I tJ tJI t I M V r 11 I i II v 0 i 0 devised but butone one mot moat dangerous d to the feminine temperament that loves excitement so 50 that many a woman comes to grief at It ft First goes their pin money then their ornaments but bu all In vain they nev never er get e enough to pay their debts and if it they do donot donot not own up to their natural guardians possibly some social satyr becomes their evil genius under the cloak of ot friendship f Indeed gambling this young strong Satan as he has been aptly described has In his short life Ufe become responsible for more financial ruin more broken homes more broken health heal healand and more degradations among the classes than any other force forc existent at the present day and those outside the smart set have no conception of ot tho the way in which gambling has eaten Into the very fabric of aristocracy For one good wo woman woman woman man bridge player there are legions of bad ones Whose losses send them to the moneylender with their jewels to the rich rI h with their heir honor and the chances are that when wh they have parted pa ed with ev everything dear to decent women wom n they reach at last the divorce court and come out of at their mad madness madness ness to find themselves forever barred from the husband and children whose claims upon them they have delIberatelY sac sacrificed to an absorbing passion And much muchas as we are said to be divided when out of doors Into two classes those who ride bikes and those who dodge them thein ao SO the two camps of ot society those who play bridge and those who do not at the present moment face each other In bitter enmity the one side looking on the other as abject slaves to toa a mad and wicked vice ice its rival returning the com compliment compliment compliment with adjectives adje of ot which the least is bigoted unprogressive unprogressive or stupid There is no moderation in either tor for neither can get within shouting distance of at the other Those who do not know w the fatal inclination of ot the game cannot be tempted by it and those who do know it cannot shake themselves them themselves themselves selves free tree for toughly roughly it may maybe be described as whist with a deeper d per intellectual edge to It and a ci a strong and exciting ele element element le lement ment of danger Thus while roulette baccarat and poker were gambling games merely making no demand on the ability of ot the players there is no denying the potent charms of ot a game that calls caUs for tor enough brains to make it well wen worth play ing for tor itself alone and besides this a good player never loses in the long run On the contrary especially if she sticks sUcks to moderate points she wins considerably but such players arc are rare and they are invariably coolheaded women who play pay the game more for the pleasure It affords tb U Un on n and because it is 15 an Intellectual exercise than for rOI money But Dut the pace was too hot to last Take the great boom in cycling when everyman every man and woman fat tat and lean old and young joung gaily took to the road tried conclusions wits w it ft t fell tell and generally smashed itself up on Aa It till Ull one fine day the crowd vanished and only those who genuinely liked and ex celled at the pastime remained to enjoy It Thus will it be with the great game same of ot bridge and only the attest will wID sur vive to enjoy It All AIl good things are liable to abuse and bridge Is one of them the When Vb en the great present day wave rave of at f Inordinate ex eX e of or ot universal universal worship of 01 gold bas has passed paSse the game may yet be played as as discreetly eUy as as sat sat as enjoyably by bUi the present pr generation U nas as wl was w was by y our owe owa end and that of four fathers th when w en Sv ht best a wo sd areas as moderate winnings only provided i 1 kalf her with perhaps Ps pairs of ot gloves v i r U r O c n r rr r n R t Qa 1 rE 9 L ff r Y y yr r I i JL L i I Hole i 1 t a fl u f 1 J MA MAI f ls r rs I H t r F at Jj j E RHINOCEROS FOR FORA fORA FORA A WOMANS PET Not many ninny women have haver owned more strenuous pets than the bay baby b by rhinoceros which h amuses Mrs Hrs Cook wife witt of ot the I Governor ot of North No ch Borneo a British possession pos possession session The Governors house la Is near n ar a jungle which Is filled filed with wild animals Out Ou of at this tangle of undergrowth a baby babe rhinoceros strayed one morning to frolic 1 In a cumbersome fashion on the e well kept lawn which surrounds s the ehouse house Native servants captured him without and when they had tamed him presented him to Mrs Cook At first It was a 8 problem on what hat and n how to feed the youngster CoWs Ca milk and an improvised were the solution solution tion lion Sixteen quarts of milk mUk a day was the amount the hungry baby bab usually de demanded d mended and on it he has bas thrived looks and a grown fat tat This I child of ot the j jungle looks very ery little UWe like the rhinoceros which can be seen s in the Zoological Gar Gardens Gardens Gardens dens If It it were not for his bis single horn hornone hornone hornone one might take him for a peculiar pecullar species of ot hog bog He Is about the same size and covered with a shaggy coat ot of black hair Mrs Cook completed the taming process begun by her servants and the baby rhinoceros now follows t her about like Uke a faithful dog It will not ot be long g If it he h keeps on growing gr before he be becomes too cumbersome c even for a North Borneo pet St James Tames Gazette o 0 r T r e ei 77 i 3 i ITHE THE PROPER CARE I OF BEDDING ERY ERT few people take proper we care of or bedding It is a aro rock k on n which J C h many good housewives go to pieces pl s To begin with the mat mattresses mattresses tresses In France and Germany Germ ny they are remade every spring and nad the Is a regular Institution In Inthe Inthe the country In how bow many houses in America Is this done It Is considered too expensive to send them to shops so they they remain in the same condition con for years ye years perhaps and we get bet so used to lumpy lumn beds that we accept them as one on of at tho the necessary evils of ot life Ute But If 1 we cannot canno afford to have bave them re te remade remade made every year w we can at least tako take every pains pains to keep them fresh tresh As soon soon as a mattress Is s made It should be en enclosed enclosed closed In a cover of ot |
