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Show SWITZERLAND. Among tlie Glaciers,, which Cannot Can-not be Described. Utah and Switzerland Compared (llimblug the Alps aud NlldiiiE ou the lee. Swiss II o to In and the Home ol Yllllatiu Tell. Correspondence of the Uskvld. Inter LACiiBN.. July 29, 1877. One week ago to-day I wrote you from Luoeruco, and what a beautiful week I have had I despair of ever being able to tell you. We took steamer from Lucerne, sailod through the lonely lakes of the feur forest cantons and arrived at Fluellea on Monday eveniug, a two hours journey of indescribable beauty. Imagine L,aKe independence oi me sierras so twisted into -he mountains that every fifteen minutes' steaming would bring new eiclamations ot wonder and ad-mit ad-mit a lion; with muuutains on every side piercing to the clouds, their beade tipped with snow and their feet clothed with the richest verdure amid the loveliest changing light, and you can have a faint idea of L'ike Uni. This wonderful lake is asso ciated with William Tell and any amount of poetical heroism and romance. ro-mance. William Tell is as real ts me as Julius Cauai or the far aw.ty old Romans who built the bridges over the foaming Rheusa; and the tower erected on the- spot where the boy stood with the apple on bis head, is a solid, stony fact not a myth. Make-way-for-li be rty Winkelried and his devoted compatriot still fire the Swiss heart with patriotism, and the spot id shown where they stood when with hands raised to heaven they took the oath of liherty or death & spot as sacred to liberty as Pilgrim Rock. Did I tell you that we had made the acquaintance of the American consul to Odessa, Mr. Dyer; also that he is an old friend of Judge B iroour LewiB as well as Mr. Luckey'd? We were delighted to have him travel in company with ub, and accepted his kindly offyred protection most cheerfully; I may say, indeed, with alacrity, (to natural is it for even strong-minded women to crave mas cutine Lympathy and support. Mr. Dyer is not by any meaus a "ladies' man," but rather an agree a ble, trust-inspiring man, wholike most American gentlemen knows how to treat ladies with politeness without familiarity. His knowledge of the language and continental customs his been of great advantage to us, and we never tire of asking him questions about Russian life and manners. Last summer he spent roaming through the Caucasus and Turkey, and -with" out exception be pronounces Con-i Con-i stantinople the most delightful city he 1 has ever visited. His sympathies, ; strange as it may seem, are with the Turks, though he says that Russia it sure to win in the end. As his time wag not hurried he found that he wanted just such a mountain trip as we proposed to take, and after consulting con-sulting our "Baedickens" we arranged a programme for the week, which, however, did not include the "storm and mist," wdich should enter iiito j every calculation for Swiss tours. , ; 1 1., Kl.ln f,, r, " Fluellen is a l07ely little town, with a peculiar style of architecture and drnarrenlation picturesque in the extreme. ex-treme. We found that a carriage for five persons would cost no more than our fares in the diligence, aud ,be in every way pleasanttr. So we took the carriage lor the day, secured an intelligent driver and left FluelUn for Hospenthal, on the St. Gotbard road. Our driver had been to Cali fornia, and bad driven stage in Inyo county, and although a Swiss by birth was quite anxious to return to America. From Fluellen to Hospenthal Hospen-thal we constantly ascended a rocky defile, down whioh roars and plunges the Rheus, one of the sources of the Rhine, and many timet I was re minded of Ogden caiion or American Fork; dow by the walls of rocc on either side, and again by the foamy, milk white os taracts leaping down the mountains across our path. Utah is well called the "Switzerland oi America,'' and has a similar beauty in kind, but not in design. Here everything is intensified; streams are larger, mountains are higher, gorges are blacker and deeper, and there is more water in the clouds to the square inch. Mountain rain is very wet, as Utah peopln understand. under-stand. We rode onward and upward all day, slopping occasionally at points of interest aod ate our lunch ol Swiss bread, cold meat, cheese and a bottle of Muuchener beer, near an old mill. Now and then tho girls would get out and walk up bill, but Mr. Dyer and i proposed to get the worth ot our money and let our stout, well conditioned horses pull us up. ; The tossing, plunging river was ever: in sight and the snowy vapor was sullenly gathering over our heads' occasionally shutting out the mountain moun-tain tops until we reached the Teu-fulabrucke Teu-fulabrucke (devil's bridge) the culmi. natiDg wonder of the day. I have heard this gorge, with its fall of water described, and have seen it photo- 1 graphed, but neither word uor picture can represent the reality, the fascination fascina-tion and the terror. There are two bridges over the chasm, one built by the Romans, overgrown with moss, and the other nearly above it of more modern date over which the road passes. The spray from the dashing water keeps the road quite wet, and as the wind was very strong we were again And again driven back from our point ot observation by the Bpray in our faces. Read Longfellow's "Gulden Legend" where you will find a description descrip-tion of it. We can scarcely imaginf th possibility of a battle being (ought in such a place, but we can see how the Austrians, boing the highest up the ravine could have driven tho enemy back down clear to Lucerne. With modern implements of warfare I should think 100 men might prove invincible in such a pass. We drove invincible in such a pass. We drove rapidly through Audenmatt across a grassy valley entirely destitute ot treen to Hoppenlhal, where we staid over night. This little world we live on is very beautiful, but it is very "much of a muchness." I find here the game dear little flowers which I have picked on the Wasatch and Sierras, and the same grasses, and I recognize each old friend with delight. No-whore No-whore yet have I found wild flowers to compare in Bize or profusion with those I have seen in the valleys of the Wasatch, and I look in vain for some ol the buauiies I have found in July in the Sierras. I have not snrii a specimen of the snow cactus uor the lonely rock II wers that grows ou the rocks above Donner lake At Hon pen '.ha I we found a good hotel; indeed, I have no word but ol praise for uoy of the Swiss hotels-good, hotels-good, clean bods, comfortable when we take the wec'ge out from under; the head of the mattress, and iearn toj double up like a jack kuife under the1 S loot by 3 feathor arrangement which is BUp posed to bo a "'comforter;" "'com-forter;" aud plenty of good food at roas onable prices two or three Irancs lor t room ami bed, and hotl diuuer for four or five franc. I c m get as good u diuuer m I need fur three franc. When we awoke on Wednesday morning wo lookod from our windows into a dense oloud, which shut us iu completely and dampened our spirits. However, as our carriage was close wo decided to start, hoping that the oloud would clear aw.ty or that prw-aibly prw-aibly we might rise ubuva it. We had a matt dreary and tantalizing rido to the Furca luu wbich in ewl to be tho moat elevated hutei (Emma iiIIh it a "way up" hotol) iu Europe, 7,011 lent above the lyvnl uf Urn and as the wind shifted the clouds we would get a ueep ol some awlul craggy bright above us or snowbank ou the declivity below the ruud, or feel by the icy air that we were near a glacier. I grtw impatient beyond endurance aud detunniued that at the Furca inn I would stop at ah hazards aud wait lor the aturm tu pats, iu dp. to of the 1 vet that we had dngaed the carrugo fur the Rhone glacier, eight miles further ou, and 1 the intimation that T niivht hnvn m uie intimation that 1 might have lo "wait a week" for sunshine. I could not couswut to pass all thttl I had come so far to sie, and so against the wish tb of the girls, who thought the Iuu "horrid," aud were generally gen-erally disgusted with lib1, I dismissed the carriage, took rooms and tried to be happy. Ttie only place to sit down where there iv aa a tire was in the large room, which answered for dicing room, parlor and smoking room. Here was an upright piano, Or pianino as they are called, and sofas with rugs and tables before them, and cabinets of Swiss cttrviugs and a display of photograph 10 views for sale. The building reminded me somewhat of the hotels on the ilenuess Pas in the scarcity of fnrni- I ture and absence of plaster or white wash, and also in the extreme cleanliness clean-liness of the white wood Uuors and general rusticity. Strangely tmough we meet no vulgar, coarse people, ' what Americans cull "rowdiea," and have nut seen uor smelt a bottle of whisky in Switzerland. Bear and wine are drank universally, but with no apparent exhilarating effect, and smoking one must meet everywhere and all the time I am told that the American habit ol chewing tobacco is positively unknown, and that a peundof the "stufi "cannot be bought in Switzerland, The absence of wnis-key wnis-key gives to ladies travelling aloue security from ruduness at least, and here the hotel rea.liug room takes the place of the bar room. As we entered ibis public silting room I noticed other weather bound Travellers, all trying to be happy under adverse circumstances, suiue playing cht?ss and others reading and writing. I was soon attracted by tne familiar sound of the English language, lan-guage, which never sounded hall so sweet before, aud looking up saw two gentlemen, whom I instantly knen were Americans. Movtd by an iin--1 puUe I could hardly explain 1 made I myself acquainted and received their j cards in return. Never shall I for- get tlm cheer and solid comfort of 1 that evening at Furca. We gathered around the piano, sang songs, Moody and 8a key melodies, and told stories almost till midnight, and our new friends proved the correctness of my impression that they were worth , knowing. The younger man, Rev. M. L. Haines of Astoria, New York, was making bis first trip through ; Switzerland, under the guidance of Mr. V. H. Morririon, a lawyer of the I same place, (Astoria) who had ac- I ounipliabed the tour three times and had selected tnis trip as one of the finest in the Alps. These gentlemen nad walked all day over the very way we came; so wo could compare our impressioui. The next morning's fog found us awake at 6 and ready for a struggle with the elements, and a sorry look out we had. All night long the rain had been tailing and the wind blow iug, I might say bowling, and the early morning brought no change save an occasional ritt in the cloudi. through which we could seo the blue skv. At 8 o'clock the atorm ceased and we started to walk to the Rhone glacier, a distance by the post road ol about twelve miles, which we shortened short-ened tO eight or nine by taking cuts instead of zigzags up and down the mountain. The breaking up of the storm was magnificent. The mists, like a routed army, fled up the defiles, de-files, disappeared over the crags or rrept down the valleys, and the beauty and awful grandeur of the Alpine world lay at our foot. When the wonderful glacier, the source of the Rhone, came into view, we were almost al-most wild with enthusiasm, and again we were awed into wrapt silence. We did not see it at a distance, but came upon it suddenly, sud-denly, at a point high up on the mountain, just where it pours over almost as precipitously as a frozen Niagara and down the declivity we followed it to where from be-ueath be-ueath it the infant river flows. A glacier cannot be described because there ib nothing in nature to which it may be compared. One can say of what it is made, and give its dimensions, but its effect cannot can-not be told nor imagined. All about it, and inte it, are constantly dancing cascades from the heights, aud the beat of the sun upon the surface sur-face caused the ice to melt into streams which form fissureB. Ail this you have read aud so had I years ago. Now I have seen and spent hours upon a glacier; I have a new experience, a rich delight which it makes my heart bound to think upon. In approaching it we crossed torrents of ice-cold water, and in descending the wet and slippery mountain frequently took a foot hath over shoe yet we declined to shiver until we reached the ice Rrotto, a vaulted passage uuder the solid green ice more than eighty leet long, where the reflected light made our (aces look like the faces ol the dead and we shuddered as we thought of the grim possibilities of the dangerous present and the terrible record of the tar oft past. I mint hasten over this eventful day. After lunching mot heartily at the comfortable hotel at the foot, we climbed ibe Maienwand, : a bare, smooth mountain 1,300 feet above the valley, and passed over i snow banks, beyond the ilark lake wherein were buried the Austrians aud French slain in battle in 1799, down over rocks which took ma back more thau any place I have seen iu the Alps to the cliffs and boulders of Duuner lake and Old Man mountain. 1 Here wo rested for the nifeht at tho Grimnel Hofpice, aud the noxt day reached Meiningen, I upon a horse and the three girls with Messrs. Dyer, Morrison and Haines on loot. The last day was full of beauty, a panorama ot clifT and gurgo aud c is-cade, is-cade, with snow peaku piercing the clouds above us and dizzy abysses beneath be-neath our feet, and so foot-worn and weary with sight and nerve and re-ceptivenpfs re-ceptivenpfs ttlmrist exhausted, we reached luterlnchon U lay up lor repairs, re-pairs, pr. paratury (r our next effort Mont Blauo aud Geneva, E. G. 11. |