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Show A Tit II' Alt K41 NO THE ISLAND OF liAL Al. (C'rreiiJOiidcnco "( tho 11eeald.) Editjrt Salt Lake Herald: The readers of the Herald may not have any great amount of interest for these hide tjpotn of land nestling in mid-ocean but there are places of lest importance, I prenume, and therefore L venture, Gilbert (ioahead-like, to give a sketch of a tour around the i?l and of Kauai, tho third Li land in aizo of the Hawaiian group. We boarded a schooner of reasonable reasona-ble capacity at Honolulu, and sailed at five o'clock in the evening. As the rural, hunt. ing town of Honolulu vanillic) van-illic) from vie in the distance, and tho "iialtic" bog ins her unruly conduct con-duct naniie.is of iho tenderness of her two precious charges, the inward foel-intfn foel-intfn change and sights become leB attractive. The reaction fore and aft iucn-ai-rt as we sail out from the leeward lee-ward side of tho bland ef Uahu where we ret the full cfieets of a stiff sea brecz". Nothing very special occurred during du-ring tho night but frequent visits to tho nde of Miss 1 1 attic, unless we mention my friend J. A. W'a. encounter encoun-ter vuih a large fat centipedo which vii(ed his sleeping apartment, I felt incapable of rendering him any assurance, assu-rance, m I lay quiet knowing more urgent ur-gent matters would call me forth, but fortunately wi h tho asastance of a native na-tive tho rept le was captured and friond J. breathed more freely. Tho following day we landed at Na wiliwili, Kauai, one of tho most delightful de-lightful natural harbors for vessels ol light draft about the island, and with feeble steps walked about two miles up tho beautiful, charming green valley of Lihuo, where wo obtained horses which with tho saddles we had fortunately fortu-nately brought along, made w a com plete outfit for tho round of the island with tho exception of a guide. After resting we rode still further up the valley val-ley to Kaimoa, where we took quarters quar-ters in a deep gulch with a native friend who, as soon as wo arrivod, began be-gan a slaughter among the fowls. Hero I made my first debut in native faro and found that my friend J. A. W., had tho decided advantage of me, for he had been schooled in it in hiB younger days and although ho had, years ago, given his valedictory, yet ho found a return to old habits was quite an easy attainment, honoo, poi, and other accompaniemente were acicntiri- i eally dispatched without being taken : through any special examination. After recuperating a few days at Kaimoa, on stewed fowls, poi, fish, and other miner dishse, with oranges for dessert, we secured a native guide, whose name translated into KngTish is "The Twilight-" Tho hour appointed ap-pointed for starting airivcd, and "Twilight," dressed in full cos-tumo, cos-tumo, with a "8cth Swap" bat, led out, ascending the hill and continuing up tho valley, along the baso of the southern spur of tho mountain, which running from tho midland chain, terminates ter-minates in abrupt precipices at tbo sen. The valley increases in piotur-cMiuoncss piotur-cMiuoncss as you approach the u:oun tains, which osoupy the centre of the island, leaving the habitable portion along the sea Bhore. Thoro is one plantation and sugar mill in the valley, which adds considerably to its beauty. "Twilight" proved to be not only a good guide but an in dispensable assistant, assist-ant, for, as wo were about to pass over tho southern branch of the mountain, ho suddenly put spurs to bia horse, and soon disappeared among tho mile and troos. Doubting nothing we began the nscent, and were dismounted on the lirst summit, when he reappeared, laden with oranges, an acceptable fruit, for the day was very warn). llcaching tho apex of the mountain spur, we obtained a view of the two Koloas,built in all their glory, on a lava flow of ancient formation. There are three craters within as many miles, and the lava which has boon discharged from these extinct volcanoes, haB oov eved miles of the earth's surface. When theso islands swarmed with natives, not many years ago, every spot of this vast lava field, unoccupied by the heaps of lava stono thrown up to mako room and increase the light coating of soil already formed, was appropriated ap-propriated for the cultivation of vegetables. vege-tables. These heaps of stone still remain, re-main, covering one third part of the surface, as monuments to the memory of their builders, and bear witness of the sad havoo foreigners have been the causo of introducing and promoting among Ithe Hawaiians, until the race has dwindled down so that planters find it somewhat difficult to procure laborers to carry on the business o-thcir o-thcir plantations. Hence, an emigratf ing company has been organized in Honolulu to bring settlers from other parts to supply the vaoanoy occasioned by the death of the poor Hawaiians. In some instances the emigration to Laic has reduced the numbor of hands employed on the plantations of this is-laud, is-laud, and planters have asked the question, "are the Mormons intending to take any more of our laborers to Late ?" No regret or sadnesa hung over our buoyant feelings at leaving lava Koloa. Our animals also seemed to appreciate their departure from lava pasturage and carried us with vim over the hills and along the base of the mountain to Hanapepo. This place justly merits its name which is a union of two words hana to mako, work, do, accomplish, and pepe, flattened down; hence made low, which we found to be the ease and very abruptly made at that. As wo approached the chasm, our guide with his prominent hat suddenly disappeared, disap-peared, dropped from the earth's orust or swallowed up in a volcano. With eagerness we approached the spot where Twilight was last seen and to our joy discovered him almost beneath us descending the precipice by a oir-cutous oir-cutous path gaining one terrace after another and urging us to follow, which of course we did, but not before dismounting, dis-mounting, for the bumps of caution was too prominent to allow us to de scend in that heathenish, cruel way, which was not only imperiling one's life but an act of cruelty to the animals. When safely at the bottom we glanced up the terraced precipice where we bad just descended, with a shudder. This ohasm or valley, or more properly canyon, is w.ll guarded by walls of rock to hundred feet high leaving but a slight opening seaward and skyward and making a respectable prison. We were deprived the pleasure of receiving the sof.ening,checriograys of the morning sun until after eight o'clock. Hanapepe - illage is not only in a sunken place, but it is on the wane. Leaving our model bouse, we followed down the river which courses through this valley, to the fca, where we took our exit for Waimea. Waimea is a specie of tree used for making tire by frietior. The Waim a valley, extending up from the sea, branches off. forming two canyons, habitable. The villago in the lower part of tbo va hy is marked with thrift and wtll supplied with fruit and ornamental orna-mental trees but minus order and regularity. regu-larity. Captain Cook anchored at this placo the first timo in 177$, and was deeply smitten with the beauty of the king's daughter. We set off from Waimea to visit the ''jumping off place," abcut ten miles distant, passing pass-ing through cocoa nut groves, the only kind of trees on the route, with the exception ex-ception of ornamental and fruit trees around residences. And as. Twilight is very expen in climbing we were well supplied with food and drink of the cocoa-nut. On reaching the terminus of the road, on this side of the island, or "'jumping off place," wo gazed with delight and admiration at the mountain waves of the sea as they dashed with fury against the precipices of the mountains thousands effect in h:ghth, tlirovric the sp:-y hundreds cf feet up their siJes. To visit the ocher siie of the island one must return to Llhue our startins roisr. Opposite the tcrn-ious is the inland " iih.au, devoted entirely to tho pasturage of sheep. The wool shipped from th:s Hand will amount to over one hundred thousand pounds per annum. The natives of Niihau are in advance of others ia miking mats with ru.-h and grass, but the foreigners holding the bland give natives no encouragement en-couragement to live there hence they are uradually leaving the place. We return to Lhu: and ;as.s through another prt of that beautiful valley to Wailua. Having proceeded the guide who stopped, prubab'y to fcoiuke the pipe of peace, we to-jk the wrot'g road which led u through the upper part of the valley, but when the juide came up, having scented the trail wc were on, he informed us that we would have 1 to pas over the detached chain oi mountains lying between u and the boa. liut, when on the apex, we wore doubly paid for tho eliglit digression, by the grand, bubiinie and pioturecque view of tho valley and mountain scenery, with cascades which feed the Wailua rivers that unite before reaching the sea. This word is derived from two words wai water atd lua two, meaning two wa'.ers. We found tolerable toler-able quarters near tho banks of the river but wo objected to compulsory rolling, turning and scratching during the nights we spent there. Here we re grcttiugly exchanged our diverting Twilight Twi-light lor Volcano, and before leaving, sailed up the Wailua river for oranges and were diverted by Volcano's recital oflegendary tales connected with Borne prominent points along tho river. Por want of space I omit relating any of their mythological accounts. We admired ad-mired the general appearance ol the country along tho pea shore, but when we descended the hill, leaving the sea, to pass over to Hanalei, taking a direct inland course, 1 was permitted to gaze upon tho finest and most picturesque scenery I ever behold, moro beautiful than ever sculptor wrought, limner painted, or poet landed. Its natural magnificence was greatly aided by a heavy fall of rain on tho mountains, which was passing away to a mist through which the numerous cascades, plunging down the precipices of tho mountains sides, presented a grandeur captivating and obarming. totae of the cascades were so near the top of the highest peaks that one was almost i inclined to believe the water was forced up tho opposite side of the mountain in pipes and displaying its sublimity in falling over precipices to our view. At the base of this mountain nestles the valley which is entirely devoted to i the produotion of sugar oanc. The Hanalei river, which silently courses its way through the valley to the sea, is made to servo an excellent purpose in boating the cane to the mill and the sugar to tho beach. Through the kindness of captain ltoss, tho present manager of this plantation, with whom we dined, wo were shown around the premises. In passing into the dining-room dining-room we first passed through an armory and on inquiry the captain informed us that when the plantation was in others' hands, these guns were used to quell the mutinous laborers employed on the plantation, but fortunately, the captain aaid he had no occasion to use thorn. The timo for our return drawing nigh wo hastened on to tho terminus of the road on this sido of the island, reaching reach-ing the place just as tho sun was setting on a Sunday evening, and with much pleasure admired the radiancy of tho spurs of mountains running to and terminating ter-minating in abrupt precipices at tho sea. This view, illuminated by the brilliant rays of the setting sun, extended ex-tended from where we wore to the "jumping off point," which we visited on tho opposito sido of the island. There is a littlo valley between thiB and that place, accessible by footmen over a dangerous path or by sea, but tho horrors of both routes were so vividly pictured to us by natives that wo abandoned the idea or visiting it. Some years ago natives started to go to this valley by sea in a canoe, taking with them a horse. They fastened the head of the horse on the canoe, so as to keep it above the brakers, but when they landed at the valley there was nothing but the head of the horse left. The sharks had feasted on the body of the animal during the trip. II. H. Cluff. |