Show I Daughters of Eve i THE 3T1T OF THE GLOVE = flow to ainke Sure of It When JJuyltig Elegance l > ci > c ids largely on tho j First Trylns On It is tho business of a womans glove to impart elegance to ber hand and that a perfectfitting glove does bring out the shapeliness of the hand and add to the completeness of the whole toilet all women agree Still not one in ten gets n glove that fits her Shoppersln general are not balf careful with the selection of their glovts They fail tq bring to bear at the time they need it the knowledge that they have had thrust upon them by their own troubles with gloves and by the sight of the crowds of women whose squeezed palms and straining knuckles and stiff fingers harrow one every day on the street until there does not seem so very much to choose between a Chinese womans foot and an American womans hand I In one of the prominent shoe stores in New York City hangs conspicuously the sign Get Your Shoes Long Enough Glove shops ought to put up the same S notice Because a tight glove doesnt press upon nerve centers like a tight shoe and cause pain it is none the less an equal deformity I dont understand the utter folly of the proceeding but I know women who going to buy gloves and finding the clerk hasnt a 6 say they will take a 5 I know women dozens of them who go Into a glove store pick out very carefully care-fully the color they wish then call for it in their number and walk out perhaps per-haps without having the gloves tried on certainly without making any examina t I tt t A PERFECT FIT tion at all oi the various peculiarities of the cut and make Yet these women both kinds of them on coming out usually exclaim over the beauty of the figurehand in the window on which the glove fits so perfectly r The French say no woman is well gowned whose glove doesnt fit The average American woman translates it whose glove is not neat But freshness and seams intact are not the sole essentials for a glove and a very brief study ought to teach one the differences differ-ences between the wellcut glove and the illcut According to a celebrated glove maker women are not careful in making sure t that the thumbpiece is long enough and proportionately broad This one defect he says creates many others it makes the hand look short it renders the top > button difficult fasten andit constrains the hand so that frequently the ball of the thumb and the siae of the palm fold together and then the whole palm instead in-stead of appearing easy and supple pliant i pli-ant and expressive appears puffy and t pudgy squeezed and thick Necessarily I the outer line of the hand also becomes distorted The whole hand in fact is S deformed by the glove and for the time beingis often disabled to such a degree that it is difficult for it to grasp and hold an object And If added to this constructive defect the lines of stitching on the back are too short the effect of thickness and clumsiness clumsi-ness increased and all possibility of a slender graceful elegantlooking hand is gone To secure flexibility of the hand when gloved the curved lower seam of the thumbpiece should come fully down to the lowest part of the ball of the thumb and between the thumbpiece and first finger should be stitched a gusset no matter whether the fingers have them between be-tween or not So much for the troublesome thumb piece The next care should be for the length of the fingers When the glove clerk measures ihe glove to your hand make sure that she gets the length of the second finger since that is the longest one and that she gets the full length for there ought to be shortfingered and longfin 7 Wk A BAD FIT jrered gloves of the same number 7 Nothing is uglier in apnearance than a shortfingered glove on a longfingered hand the knuckles protruding in a most ungainly fashion and the glove always stretching yet refusing to bend with the movements of the hand The set of a glove depends much on the Way one first puts it on at that time every seam should be adjusted straight and true to its right position and each finger pushed down to its proper length A woman whose gloves always fit well says she takes some cool morning when she is in a leisurely and severe frame at mind to try on new gloves She sits down and gently rubs them onto her hands until they look as if they were painted there Before any attempt at buttoning is made every finger seam is adjusted to perfect straightness the side seam is made absolutely free from little crooks and twists the thumbpiece fitted every gusset stretched and rubbed into place the hand worked back and forth at the wrist joint and the fingers repeatedly opened and closed upon the palmA palm-A noted glovemaker told me only yesterday yes-terday that when a good glove was brought back to him burst he knew at once that the glove had been hurriedly put on and that the wearer had tried to button it before the fingers and thumb piece were well pushed down He said S that no glove should be buttoned until the hand was entirely flexible in it and that then it should bt buttoned up from the bottom One ought nosto want her gloves to all fit alike A dress glove for visiting or evening wear should fit closely and perfectly per-fectly Walking and driving glove should bQ so loose as to slIghtly wrinkle a All outing gloves should have the flat lapped seams in the ordinary glove the seams are simply whipped and will not stand rough wear The broader the band stitched around the palm and buttonholes button-holes thetoetter the glove is iJ While the ight putting of R glove ian i-an imOrfa 1t actor in its fit still the borreot latkingoff it Is necessary to the 1 maintenance of that fit There is but one good way That is to a pull them back over the hand until the second knuckles of ths fingers ate f reached then pull the fingers off the tips To draw the whole glove off by the fingertips leaves the ends of the fingers stretched flattened and worn And dont fancy that when you have taken off your glove thesnrest way to keep it nice is to do as you so often have been advisedthat is to lengthen and pull thefingers out pat the glove until it looks as though it were ironed and then think because it resembles itself when new that it is being properly taken care of On the contrary let it alone beyond blowing in it a little and put it away just as it came offa pretty mould of your band It saves a lot of fresh creases and shapings when next you put it on and it goes on twice as easy The nicest way to prevent ones hands from perspiring when in gloves is to keep on your bureau a little box of glove powder this you can get at any druggists drug-gists for 50 cents a package Sprinkle some in whenever you put on your gloves Keep all your gloves in a big box thickly thick-ly padded and scented with your favorite perfume HARRYDELE EA TTMARK TOILETS FOR GARDEN PARTIES Fairy Flowery Mousselines Over Silk Petticoats NEWPORT j July 27Woven Wind Mist of the Morning Woven Sun light are only a few of the poetical names bestowed by the natives on those wonderful muslins of Decca so famous in song and story These names might equally well be apulied to the beautiful I organdies and mbussehnes de soie flowerbesprinkled on paletinted grounds mauve pink green or yellow so popular this summer for all outdoor and veranda wear With these delicate gowns the under skirt of silk is of corresponding tint gored and finished with ruffles once more the silk skirt united only to the superior part at the belt so the delicate music of rustling skirts is not lost to us as with the first threat of crinoline seemed so imminent on the contrary the surg ingof tumultous petticoats is on the increase since the silk skirt only conceals 4i GOWN OF CREAM ORGANDIE the starched ruffles and laces of the dainty and feminine white petticoat which is universally worn again By far the most attractive of the many sorts of ornamentation used for the skirts of these thin floating gowns is the deep Spanish flounce headed by a moss trimming trim-ming of plaited lace or ribbon or pinked out silk agreeing in tone with the predominant pre-dominant shade of the gown or with the contrasting color of the design on it The bodices really divide between two or three styles the Marie Antoinette flchu tho new surplice bertha and the pointed yoke the latter tdrving out on the shawlshaped lines of 1S30 The sleeves are no longer aggressive in their proportions they droop away from the shoulder lines following the example of oldtime pictures GOWN OF WOVEN SUNSHINE Mme Josselm whose fairylike imag ination always gives a gossamer touch to delicate robes has sent over several gown for garden parties which seem almosttoo ethereal for wear and one of them might be appropriately named Woven sunshine sun-shine It is a pale cream organdy with tiny rosebuds sprinkled over itf and its trimmings trim-mings are Persian bands of soft yellowy 4 i LlkidI iIyc r 51v cr e 4st I 1 i 1jtfJr y r4i RiOt GOWN OP PAILLE SWISS pink roses with olive tinted leaves It is made over yellow silk which glints and shimmers through the thin material lending lend-ing it half its charm The bodice is full back and front with surplice bertha of Valenciennes lace border with the Persian trimmings The sleeves have one deep puff with two smaller ones finished at the elbow with a band of the trimming and a fall of the Valenciennes lace The belt is composed of pink satin ribbon and eminence velvet ribbon loosely twisted together This touch of eminence purple is most effective effec-tive and gives the keynote of color to the costume The skirt is made with three flounces of Valenciennes lace each flounce is headed with a ruching of lace insertion and above the insertion is placed a band of Persian trimming To complete the details of this charming charm-ing costume comes a largo picture hat of leghorn trimmed with Valenciennes lace a bunch of orchids and bows of pink satin and eminence velvet ribbon The parasol para-sol is a marvel of daintiness it is covered with pink satin veiled with Valencienne lace and finished at the top with a knot of eminence velvet from which drop gracefully three or four large orchids A PINK GOWN The complexions that admitof wearing pink enjoy great good luck nowadays Q < rg I j 1 p 7 > r for so many of the prettiest gowns arein this shade delightfnl one is of pink dotted swiss the color of a Tyorence rose with sprays of delicately tinted flowers It is made over pink silk The bodice is full back and front and held in place at the waist by ombre ribbons combining the shades of E the flower design across the bust lines line-s a full pinked out ruching of changeant sill which has a soft mossy effect The yoke is made of creamy point dAlencon lace finished at the neck with a ruchinc of silk Adeep puff finished with lace form the sleeve At the top of the Span ish flounce on the skirt is placed a ruch lag of the changeant silk above the hems of the flounce are laid three narrow bias folds of silk s The hat of this toilette has a deep fall of lace over the wide caughtup brim erect ribbon bows and a bunch of shaded ostrich feathers with full aigrette in the centre PALE BLUE MOUSSELINE DE SOlE Anotherof Joss lins gowns which is simply ravishing in its daintiness is composed com-posed of pale blue Louis XV mousseline de sole accordion plated giving out reflects re-flects of azure opal and pink caught from the glimmer of changeable silk in the petticoat beneath The bodice is accordion plaited with a surplice bertha of the mousseline which has a design of roses in rich colors woven into it This bertha is edged with creqmy point dAlencon lace and finished at the waist with loosely twisted ribbons of pInkS pink-S 4i i II1wI5 c J I o PWI itlI j hi i ACCORDEN PLEATED MOUSSELLINE DE SOIE and pale blue It is in the dash of color as in the bertha of this gown that a French artist excels in giving the exact and necessary touch which concentrates and gives character to the whole costume The large picture hat is formed entirely of point dAlencon lace Moss green velvet vel-vet bows tie the roses where the brim is caught up in front and on the side The hat seems a suitable finish to this charming charm-ing gown I A few weeks ago the shops were full of these pretty materials their scarcity now shows with what avidity women have grasped their possibilities Youth is more fair and ethereal in Swiss and a leghorn than in all the bravery of ballroom ball-room attire And women of experience know that they too are never so irre sistable nor so becomingly gowned as when clad in the soft fresh daintiness of a muslin and lace toilette ISABEL DUNDAS Green Grapo Preserve The trouble necessary to the preparation prepara-tion of the oldfashioned preserve which I have to recommend ought not to count We cant get something for nothing this world and for certain toothsome morsels we must have the patience of our grandmothers as well as their cookbook cook-book It will be easy to those living in the country or those having their own grapevines grape-vines to procure green grapes But the most delicious grape preserve I have ever tasted was made of fox grapes that crew wild in stony meadows Itis quite possible possi-ble even for those living in cities to gjt wild grapes by bargaining with some huckster or marketman at the right time In the latitude of Southern New York this time is about August 1st but everywhere every-where it should be when the grapes are still hard before they have softened in the least but when they have attained nearly or quite their full size Having got your grapes provide yourself your-self with a small sharp penknife and cut each grape in half exactly as you would an orange Then remove the seeds and throw the fruit into cold water It will take vou all dav to do fourteen Bounds but the preserves are worth the trouble Once seeded the process is the same as for other fruit Use granulated sugar allowing pound for pound Cook until the syrup jellies when cool and seal in the ordinary manner This preserve is very rich and of an entirely en-tirely different flavor from that made of ripe grapes and is sufficiently acid not to cloy and is the best sweet I know of to serve with meats M C H The Childrens Whiteboard It cant be called a blackboard JJ because be-cause it isnt black but it is designed to take the place of one A blackboard either at school or at home is apt to make lots of dust and dirt and some mothers aftej one has been bought for tho use of the children at home feel obliged to let them use it only at certain timeswhen they are not dressed clean or when the nursery or play room has not just been swept and dusted To make a whiteboard buy a large piece of sheet celluloid and tack it wrong side out on a flat board just the size Celluloid large enough can be bought for about half dollar rtists thumb tacks or nice giltheaded tacks can be used Along the bottom of the board nail a hollowed piece to hold the crayons and put in one or two tacks to hold the little sponges and cloths used to clean the board Hang the sponges up by strings run through them Two screweyes in the top of the board will suffice to hang it up by The C crayons are heavy blue and red pencils or Heavy black ones these make dustless marks and can readily be rubbed off the celluloid with a damp sponge When wiped dry with a cloth the board is ready for use againA A I W |