Show FASHION LETTER The Reigning Styles in the Eastern Metropolis 15PRING TIME SUGGESTIONS eaonabJe rateTI1I9tJlea of alai DE Color OntDoor Gar mentGeneral > ote > t J SEW YORK Arpil 18S J To Z te Editor of THE HEEAUJ t I in old time cutting up is exchanged f J fori modern mixing Some years ago into sedulously I material was carved I scull pieces that thly might again ben Inn together this form of industry tts disappeared but in place of it in Hiny new fabris cotton wool and silk that one knows not s i so interwoven bich is which nor what is what The three are combined in all manner ol traYS in parallel stripes in figures cone another etc while intruding one upon in small everj where comes canvas now peeping now forming the body of the body of the fabric and in all intermedi hitherto confined ate gradations notes to cotton but also insilk and wool 5 ew wool etamines canvas show polka dots others have Chinese figures and very peculiar and stiff canvas wools are of dark color bestrewn at regular intervals by outstanding white hairs Equally novel though not so striking are porcupine por-cupine mohairs striped as also a mixture mix-ture where one stripe of large diagonal in wool alternates with soft faille silk on where frame silk contrasts with a similar wool stripe Pretty wool canvas cloth is printed in delicate vine designs cunningly portrayed twigs or flowers ind cotton crapes are stamped in Japanese ideas such as fans trellis work branches summer houses etc The stylish summer silks woven in MOSGOLHS FAEHIOK have been mentioned as predominant IIId on the same order but too striking to be adopted except cautiously are China silks where very large open wheels erhuge circles are set interlacing or overlapping one color showing up through the other with singular effect the more so ay the combinings contrast I Each hues as olive brown and red i brown yellow and black green yellow and red etc the general result being decidedly tigerish Through all imitations imita-tions however fine soft cashmere holds position and is in large demand Om els hair likewise but this latter is sometimes some-times rendered novel by very thick sot wool threads set in very long stitches and quite apart from each other but forming embroidered patters or again there are camels hair goods woven in patterns or borders that display Indian blanket effects while as anotker variety i ribrnc thos showing resemblance of i Indian embroideries and also rude irregular ir-regular forms such as might characterize character-ize semi civilization but are pleasing because be-cause they given change from our usual refined finish Lace can be reckoned summer traterials so extensive among ly will it appear as the greater part of I dressy costumes the more son colored 1 silk often shows underneath Doth giving giv-ing support and serving to bring out attractive Spanish and other patterns Cra e both whitand coloredwill be In a high favor andfor light mourning there is special style in a white crape costume with bunch f violets COLO Dress goods colors arc always important impor-tant not only ir < themselves but as giv I i ilIg the key note in all other departments depart-ments Thus while light colors are more fashionable in millinery than they have been for a long while yet the hat or bonnet will constantly match the dress hosiery etc the same On the list I as stylish come blue green bronze brown slate drab tan plum wine and garnet There are frouuthree shades upwards in all but plum while less freely used because more Conspicuous yet also in different shades are yellow red orange gold pink with i modicum modi-cum of magenta and lilac Thus we have variety enough OUTDOOR GARMENTS speak different languages to suit the different wearers Expressive jauntiness jaunti-ness as in case of the tan Br red cloth figured and colored velvet braided or rough cloth jackets greater dignity where the imtre iscly popular short wraps appear devised in brocade inuit in-uit goods or for summer in grenadine or lace with colored silk lining Lone redingotes give that seriousness of aspect I as-pect which befits the shopper or the I traveler especially if displaying stripes I or checu Elderly ladies are Casually I enveloped in long cloaks and these are t capable of much varation frjm sober cloth to handsome lace ones lined with colored silk the last being too attrac tuc not to find favor in the eyes of younger peoplp radations bemgbfought about by degrees as to brightness of hue Scarf manMIas are talked of and among the prettiest spring wraps suited chiefly to the young are mantillas with long ends crossed in front and fastened over the tournure with stout hook and eye Lace trimming mostly guipures guipure-s liked for these graceful garments akin to which are wraps reaching but little below the waist at the back but with very long end hanging straight the latter quite suitable for xiiddleaged and elderly people Circular wraps for carriage car-riage wear at watering places are of laceJmed with colored silk Nearly all raps have bright linings 8LASBtSG VERSUS CTTTISO Material is not cut into bits which are Kn together again but the dressmaker Mghtsjto c slash that she may lace up This lacing up is quite a feature not a 1v costumes art laced down the from 10the exclusion of button the two Ire sometimesunited sleeves arc laOt1 1 ell that they tiav be laced and skirl arr tla hed and laced ad IMtum Mightily ° ° nvenient sometimes especially foe J1e dome ori > r r stood band matenal I SInce two or more pieces can thus Ue 1Ilalle one and in ornamen fashion awhile + I Well a-while upon ne T goo these hr tags are often so pretty as to atone foi I recklessness of cut Another very convenient con-venient and pretty fashion is that o waists different from skirts A dark waist gives a look of slenderness which will allow a plump person to alight I a-light skirt and per contra a thin waist I isBeJittle relief with a dark serviceable 9kirt + I scarce need say that jerseys area are-a valued and variously ornamented institution in-stitution and jersey cloth is now used along with non elastic goods new style waists having jersey cloth sleeves with I bodice portion ot omething quite Jif ferent color but of course matching in I AFBIZ SOTES Very jaunty silk dresses of dark color 1 arc made with red jersey cloth yokeor1 1 I Hooks and eyes are ct min up again as waist fasteners but present are mostly used with pleated fronts and so arranged arrang-ed as to be overlappe 1 by folds An effort ef-fort is being made to introduce tLe high tuck comb with Spanish mantilla and fan Jet beads as large as crab annles are seen and among other new jot devices de-vices are acorns fir cones heads i f barley rye etc some times mixed iu chenille trimmings Novel beads are alto of smoked pearl Round hats btva a long black lace scarf at the back which is brought round and psssedj tinier the throat Beaded bonnets with openwork open-work wire frame are worn without linings lin-ings Small colored or white dottedlace veils are one important feature in outdoor out-door wear Taking the place of invbi i ble nets to keep down the frizzes even in the evening but often a little longer in the day thev match the dress and bonnet with stylish effect White with black dots is very popular and becoming becom-ing White illusion is likewise much worn R09ALI nMAT |