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Show Toilettes for Midsummer Days BY SABA MACSHALL COOK I j Striking Novelties "ARIS dressmakers for some :"" time past have concentrated P- all their efforts on novelties for the season at Deauville mown to be the most chic resort in Europe, Not one of them hjt is thinkir.fi; of beautiful dresses for the jBjetshore, smart restaur ar t gowns, startling toilettes for the races and Measwo dancer, which will make the fearers a cynosure of all eyes. For Kll their beauty and noclt, there a refinement about th mii.uh. jHWettes which cann..t fan t. v;i Pproval among women of tasie '97 are not 80 simple as last year's Mttle black dresses, hut they are(dis-Mwetly are(dis-Mwetly ornate. . MPoeuillet, the man dressmaker, wntinues to hold his own with the j 'n Paris. He has just creat'-d aeries of "toilette? de plape" wiii.-h both dignified and beau', if in, and proving a gTeat success. A typ-jklul typ-jklul model developed in crept: Grorg-WP Grorg-WP with delicate hand embroidery jjjown on the seated figure in the etch to-day. The dress is in blous-fc blous-fc OM-piece style with overhanging wiela closely plaited and mounted ;jBth & delicate hand work dune on Pe crepe Georgette. jjPnking Embroideries i A White Satin Dresses SMART touch is given through I1,". the u'e of a scarf sash of tulle BP is attached at the left side lit a bouquet of frosted silver) KT violct9 Thls srarf ia throwTi 1 j-jPtlessly around the neck. The' tte beautiful flowers trim the hat, i MgP dem'-clochr of Georgette; iSflP exactly matching the dress in i iiJnet continues to have great c'fff88 Wlth her simple hand-made' iBT f lowblousinE chemise style. holds al9 to the rusty brown Te the riht of the model) ' JeL bed " a typical Vionnet JHt Thc 5"oung American girl a K? , 9 orcled this dress will wear 1 jfB rt a Uvin bat with one of the Wquettish masque v(?ih H at the lower loft of thiy i ' Mni1 "S makinK many beautiful! 'Mri dresses. The intricate iKd Paltcr,,s '"' embroidery! Atari.011 a backroun'i of white I e These h'Phly ornate robes are i moJn the K'rnplbSt possible lines. I IkhT ? f th'S Rort 13 shown with I llT '. ln vari'ju "hades of red i lght mi"k'linp of black, 'Slfrayand0.vster tone. Such , 'kh on f R'Ven 8 fini3hinK h !IK t6 Rc"boux'8 huge poke bon-"jKers bon-"jKers f'd with v-.-.ol,.recl Eir miH SlnK clU'nt' 0np of crlrr D10del- developed Kdtean Mar0cain the well H el.ll .and red colorings JlE Afl broideries m ,elf-i ,elf-i Qowtriruming 0 pamie violets affords a brilliant contrast. An accompanying hat is of white horsehair braid trimmed with flowers flow-ers in the two shades. The all white dress Is almost without with-out rival as a summer dependence. Women do not hesitate to have from six to a dozen all white dresses. An exquisite model in white satin shows lovely embroideries in crystal beads and silver thread. As an afternoon casino toilette this is worn with a little cloche of white horsehair braid draped with an ornamental masque veil. Lace and Georgette In Pigeon Breast Gray L CASINO gown from Lanvin is shown at the right of the sketch. 1L is developed from a crispy cool-looking cool-looking tafiVta exactly the shade of a Parme violet and trimmed with eccelesiastical panels of silver cloth framed with an embroidery of minute .steel beads. It shows the new fitted bodice which marks plainly the normal nor-mal waistline. Regardless of its fitted line, however, the figure is still uricorseted in effect, as there is either no corset worn or only a girdle, confining the figure from thc waistline down. On the right hip is worn a large corsage bouquet of curious orchid-like flowers hand made in Lanvin's etxraordinary and original manner. There Is a charming little hat to match this dress made of Bilver lace, silver cloth and Parme ribbon. Nothing Noth-ing more demure and alluring can The figure above in the small panel shows a new girdle and hat of braided straw and red poppies worn pith a simple cotton crepe frock- Below it (left to right) Dress of crepe Georgette with hand embroidery. Hand-made Vionnet dress of rust-brown crepe de Chine. Taffeta frock in Parme violet shade with silver bands. Hats (left to right) Lanvin model with one of the new coquettish masque veils. Talbot sun liat of organdie and gosgrain ribbon and a hat by Re-boux Re-boux showing a new motor veil embroidered with soutache braid. bo. imagined than this toilette of Parme and silver. Mme. Rolande, since installing herself in her new quarters on the Rue St. Honors, is attracting more and more attention with her beautiful beauti-ful dresses. She is making for the seaside exquisite things in combinations combina-tions of lace and crepe Georgette. One of her loveliest models is in a soft pigeon's breast gray, the lace ! and crepe exactly matching. There , ib a becoming crepe Georgette hat a trimmed with hand-made flowers of j matching tone which accompanies j this dress. Chiffon Motor Wils Linbroidored With Soutache ! JN PARIS automobiling is such a popular pastime thut every woman wom-an must provide herself with coquettish coquet-tish motor veils. One of the most interesting models which has just been launched b Rehm- illustrated illus-trated nt the lower riuht of the j sketch, it is oi chiilon, two and one-half yards long, embroidered at he e.hc with soutache and has an inserted masque of dotted mesh surrounded sur-rounded by Hi- same heavy embroidery. em-broidery. To the left of it is shown a smart new sun lint from Talbot developed de-veloped m organdie and heavy gros-Ki-um r i bl ion It is a big round sailor and the ribbon is threaded through slots. In effect it reminds ' one very much of a w hirligig, but , every smart woman is taking two or three of these in different colore to the country. With their simple cotton and crepo Georgette dresses young women with a love for the picturesque are using I flower girdles and flower toques. ' One of Judith Barbier's latest sets of this kind is sketched in the panel J at the top of this page. It consists I of a plaited straw girdle, on which arp mounted big red poppies, and a toque made of nn eppn straw braid with a baud of poppies. k The Spanish influence lingers. The newest evening scarf is a sort of capo shawl deeply fringed and worn across the shoulders in Spanish Span-ish style. The most popular models are In white with black embroidery and black and white fringe. Then there are other scarfs developed de-veloped in a heavy hexagon net j with a fe?tooned border of embroidery embroid-ery and an applique of large satin leaves delicately veined and most i natural loukmg. |