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Show I&ifiii III!! ffc hJ Yellow with. - it-. Teavm jOdalisque IGes nu m Pink Cordur'oy" Should fa beWarmand Pleasantly Gay ort a I' Rich, Soft Hues of Boudoir Wear Welcomed By t Women As Relief From Dark Outdoor Costumes Cos-tumes - Satin a Favored Material - Fur 1 Touches On Winter Negligees. If 'SAME FASHION" HAS decided I fj m that this is to bo a season of j a m dark and neutral colors so far B&J as street garb Is concerned, but she has beneficently permitted ncgll- I gees to riot in lovely colors. And most women will wear dark hues in tho ?frort miltn rnnf ontorUv provided I' their fancy for brighter tints may bo Indulged within doors. Dark and neu- tral tones are. of course, much tho i best taste In a season when no woman I wants to make herself conspicuous as i an object of vanity or frivolity; and much attention to dress Is obviously sxpresslvc of a vain and frivolous Etato of mind in a year when bier Issues occupy earnest minds and when anxiety and sorrow hover over us all. An Effort To Do Away With Mourning Garb. Many earnest American women are banding themselves together in an effort to- banish tho depressing influence influ-ence of crapo and black raiment during dur-ing tho trying period of tho war's duration. It is argued, and quito sensibly, that tho trappings of woe, increasing in number as fatalities occur oc-cur at the front, would have a depressing de-pressing effect on thoso who must go forth to tho conflict and thoso who must send them away with high courage cour-age and brave hearts. England decided de-cided In tho p.iHv rlnvc nf tho w-ir tn ' abolish the custom of mourning and America, with truest and deepest senso of patriotism will try to follow England's wiso example in this regard. re-gard. Personal dcslro will bo restrained re-strained for tho good of the greatest number, and in order that those who mourn may not feel a bitter contrast between their raiment and their personal per-sonal feelings, all outdoor garb will bo quiet in character and dark or neutral toned. In her own home, however, the woman who out of flno feeling and sympathy for other women, dresses for the street as . quietly as possible, may wear tho beautiful and cheerful colors that she loves. Never has neg-llgco neg-llgco wear been more fascinating and alluring and never have deep and rich ICMffop Mfev , CreatnLace, MrmKm g--'fe jA silver0 Vbbcm. 1 j tints boon moro evident in this sort of costume. Oriental Tea Gowns A Riot Of Color. One of the now Odalisque tea gowns is pictured, and surely no woman need complain because she Is asked to wear gray or taupe, or midnight bluo on the street, if sho can lndulgo her lovo for vivid hues In a costumo of this kind at home. Tho tea gown pictured or tea frock It should be called, sinco It lacks all tho -traditional features of the dignified and flowing tea gown is called tho "Butterfly," and an Oriental conception of a butterfly but-terfly motif Is embroidered on tho bodice. Tho costume blends various gorgcouus butterfly colors in its materials; ma-terials; black silk net, cloth of gold. nasturtium and a clear turquoise blue just such butterflies hovered over suburban gardens last summer. The cap which accompanies the costume Is mado of gold tissue and turquoise bluo ribbon, with dangling gilt balls and a drooping "tassel" of black tulle. Some of these Oriental tea costumes are ovon more colorful; for example, a model with scarlet velvet skirt and jacket of bluo satin embroidered with gilt beads; and another model combining com-bining all the purple hues from silver-lavender silver-lavender to deep mauve. Tho costumo cos-tumo is In two pieces, loose Jacket that slips over the head with no front or back opening, and a gathered skirt which is shaped like a bag, the feet being thrust through oblique slashes that cut off tho lower corners of tho bag. The sleeves aro merely straight pieces of fabric sewed around tho wide armholcs of the jacket, and fall back to lcavo the arms baro when the latter lat-ter aro raised.. The Cozy Corduroy Morning Gown. From tho picturesque to the practical prac-tical one goes when the Oriental tea frock is deserted in favor of tho corduroy cor-duroy wrapper. But that tho latter can bo an' extremely good looking garment Is evidenced by tho pictured morning gown of geranium colored corduroy with embroidered scallops on collar and cuffs. Width has been given to the straight garment by gathered gath-ered sections at the sldo of the skirt, and tho shirred top of these sections, gathered over heavy cords, hide pocket openings. There Is something In tho ample proportions of this rose geranium boudoir robo that Is very suggestive of cozy comfort on a chilly winter morning; and tho graceful robe with Its deep collar and scalloped trimming is much more distinguished than tho old-fashioned eiderdown or blanket bath gown, whose honorable place It has usurped. A perfectly practical bathrobe Is the rose geranium ger-anium negligee, yet ono would not hesitate to breakfast in it if no guests were present. Theso corduroy robes como in the most alliirlng shades, deep sea blues, coral and rose pinks, omerald green, golden yellow and the I like; and the models in white corduroy cordu-roy aro especially -beautiful. Not all of tho corduroy negligees are as Taceful, or as ample in cuUas the pictured one but this is an averago model at an average price. Satin Peignoirs The Vogue. Any woman could wear tho corduroy cordu-roy morning robe in her home, but only the exceptional woman would select such a delectable affair as the daffodil satin peignoir shown in another an-other picture. A very exclusive negligee neg-ligee this, and a very beautiful one too. Satin meteor in a faint, exquisite daffodil tint is tho material and certainly cer-tainly tho expensive fabric has not been spared for it droops and drapes in all manner of lovely folds about its wearer. Down the kimono shoulder and sleeve aro set hand embroidered rnollfs of daffodl chiffon, tho edges couched with white silk cord, and pllsso frills of the chiffon edgotho 13 ' ! j Tinted Cbif fon .Dropped Ov er a Taffeta i Steut m. "Palest Pirvtc-Lilao ; sleeves and the fronts of the negligee. The cap is an odd little affair of cream lace with wires to hold It In shapo and a bow of yellow velvet at the back. Both negligee and cap aro recent re-cent arrivals from Paris. Some of the most beautiful negligees negli-gees of the season arc of Ivory white or flesh pink satin meteor, hand embroidered em-broidered on tho upper part and falling fall-ing in graceful folds and draperies below the waist. Thero aro negligees too. of jade green meteor, or of turquoise tur-quoise shade. Some of them show bead embroideries and sometimes a touch of fur gives tho cold weather suggestion, though as a matter of fact no negligee of this fashionable type ever knows what a cold temperature Is like. It lives Its life In a steam heated atmosphere of summery degree, de-gree, and only looks Its part as a .winter garment because of tradition. Filmy Jackets With Silk Skirts. The skirt and Jacket type of negligee grows more and more popular. For one thing, these looso coats arc particularly par-ticularly becoming to stout women, and when one comes to think of it. probably two-thirds .of the women who have time to wear claborato and costly negligees have "put on" embonpoint. embon-point. Thero arc special tea gowns and boudoir robes now for large figures, fig-ures, made like the famous sveltline-insplrcd sveltline-insplrcd gowns and suits, to transform curved silhouettes into slender ones, all through some mysterious trick of proportion and adherenco to tho fetish "good lines." The pictured negligee combining a chiffon jacket and a skirt . of pink-lilac taffeta was not designed especially for any sort of figure but it should be becoming to either a stout or a thin woman. The wide sleeves arc a feature of Its grace and the simplicity of the chiffon coat Is most fe admirable. All around the edges run-M Jw? tiny silk and chenille rosebuds and a .ml double frill of net finishes the sleevo Rl openings. : The lower edge of tho coat It Is cut In Vandyke points, which appear K to fall over a deep flounce of lace, ft but the lace Is cut away under tho Hj points. This lovely coat, as light as a B breath. Is of flesh tinted chlfTon; tho H skirt, run with cords at knee and flp ankle. Is of shot taffeta In tints of pink H and lilac. The cap is of flesh pink B satin ribbon and lace, with tiny B chcnlllo flowers for trimming. Tea Gowns Have A Formal Quality. V 'A tea gown Is supposed to be a 'Hj garment worn downstairs when guests are present. It Is therefore a rather B formal and stately costume and not B the sort of negligee one would wear Bi In Intimate hours in one's own room. Bj The tea gown may not bo accom- B panlcd by a cap: It demands a coiffure B of distinction, and it must be matched K by slippers and stockings such as Bf would be selected for a dance. No jS' lazy French mules, or hccllcss bed H) room slippers with the tea gown any Bj more than the smart buttoned boots B which one would don with out-of- B door costume. Tho tea gown pictured 3? is an elaborato affair of pale blue and ff pink tones, the high lights produced by silver lace, and contrasting shadows by touches of dark fur. IV;' |
