Show J j jr i r It Pleats Flare Along the Riviera River L fF 1 h r i J 4 1 bT Cy r Ir q qC 11 ri a ar aIr f Q t 0 4 It- It fl j I u IJ fL 1 A fi t f L LJ LI I I C I J I i W j I t 1 tf tJ I I Lt 9 7 f O e r J II t M I 0 y w A I I rr J o ot t 7 7 1 il i j n I 1 00 A v T I fr 1 r f I W it iti i it t I 0 ij 4 r r I- I LJ r Ii y a J c J fV ry al 1 l 1 u 3 l lI I l lh s r l 1 I Tl r I i tt 1 f 1 t f r- r rj j Vw j I 4 t tI t i Io J r I td g 3 t Ii tre t i ff 65 v vt 9 re Tt I rJ f-rJ t f I h hI 1 I t t i 71 fV J IU t I 5 r l t- t f b- b i I j 2 JJ J J 1 I J Y J I t 1 t t l 1 J r r Y rl a J F-J i l 1 r Y s k r rS 1 f R 1 Ky rr i r l S o- o 4 4 l J w m t ff iT J e i w i fI i f v Cf j ji i f oto to jr I 2 J YI J t I T- T H y jI 7 1 I t il rJ Jf ii fy j t i it 1 I j 1 K So 1 tf t At 1 I f tili A i rP f Ji t T r L rr Dt 4 Ma Mr Swe f L I I jl Jt i i I 1 c cri i fI I ri 4 t 1 b fJ v M l J y i 1 f t o k-o 71 J f 1 A j 1 L H t J 1 LT v o l J r rR ti 1 it 1 1 J T J V j jJ r l- l lI t I I y i t 4 P I Ii R 1 f fI t li At White Left hi e crepe de Chine 1 t f 7 t s Lt I jJ J j 11 dress dreM pleated flounces and 7 l f I l sir f f A 0 Aff tf sleeves and anda a great grem mode belt bell l f y a 4 ff x y At right Tl Two right piece o-piece frock of v t y z 1 s r 9 white and blue reps tire the pleated V d 1 0 skirt of the blue and tire the bodIce i of l embroidered in yellow P cUo fl Ir I t n r Simplicity of Line and Elaboration I Characterize Frocks Of f Detail Resort Vivid Piping and Gay Embroideries Feature Simple White Oriental Frocks Frocks Effects Achieved by Monograms Done in Eastern Fan Coloring Coloring Shaped Fan Shaped of or Pleated Red Silk Trim Wh White te Serge Model HE eyes of the fashIOnable THE T world are now riveted on Monte Carlo and enVIrons where the sartorial notables of the Continent arc are already dISplaYIng clothes from the early February openings Gone are those Victorian days das when the Queen would settle her fancy perhaps upon elastic side boots and every stratum of society so- so so society would stampede to follow this newest whim A dual government regulates the tb mode modo day to-day con con- consisting consisting con consisting on the one hand of oI the creat creat- creat- creat creative he ive couturiers and on the other of the equally creative wearers mem wearers mem members bers of society whose dress represents represents the smartest selections from the designers salons Hence the m- m intense in intense tense interest in Riviera ra fashions which accurately presage spring and the early moments of summer All of society is present or ac- ac accounted accounted ac accounted counted for at this v winter Inter resort The tennis court at La Festa is 15 the center of sports activity from 9 m in the morning until 20 in m the af- af afternoon afternoon af afternoon and the spectators are al- al almost almost al almost most as mucha much a part of the game as the players The keynote of the cos- cos costumes costumes cos costumes worn by the smart lookers lookers- lookers on 0 on onis 13 is extreme simplicity although the minor details of dress are ar worked out with great elaboration A Monogram Res Resembles An Inlay of Enamel A A LOVELY white whito serge frock fresh resh from the workshop of Jenny is smartly piped in vIVId green which plaids off the front and bac back in slender panel form and has two serviceable pockets at nt the front The fad tad for or the embroidered mono mono- monogram monogram monogram gram for or sports wear is also eVI- eVI eVIdenced evidenced evi evidenced in this model model which shows a very large and ornamental mono mono- monogram monogram monogram gram directly in the center of the front front done in flame red vivid green and black giving quite an Oriental touch of color coke and looking thing some some- something thing like an Inlay of enamel This model u lJ sketched at the top of the thep p second page second from the right Pleats lire arc everywhere el in m They may adorn the sleeves they may make the th narrow s st still 1 narrower or they t tk y ma ma- mabe may be b so 80 as u to cause pose the godet liars flar to 1 b mot most parent but apparent but m Riviera Under The Spell of 0 fosse Gosse de Riche MONTE CARLO famous Gosse de deRiche deRiche Riche model has become the uru uniform orm of the day along alone the Originally made In dark blue satin with a small band of ermine on the col- col collar col collar lar and the name Gosse de deRiche deRiche deRiche Riche embroidered in red letters it is now mostly seen n nID in ID white serge or heavy white crepe with whIte fur and red embroidery A Abelt Abelt Abelt belt or buckle of red is a frequent and attractive trimming on this costume for forthe forthe the poor little rich girl I I isome some form they arc are present on al- al almost almost al almost most every frock Bernard is unusually lavish in the use of pleats on models which cater particularly to the younger set One very graceful dress has a long like like lie blou cof white wool reps embroidered in gold and yellow and anda anda a fairly fauly short multi pleated multi pleated skirt made of the same material in a dull hyacinth blue A streamer necktie continues the blue note up to the face and brings about a harmony between blouse and skirt A distinctive feature in straight straight- straight Line dresses is the addition of one or two o narrow flounces that flutter shoat about the ankles ankle Usually these are pleated in groups and separated by broad spaces The Th tops of the sleeves are arc also pleated giving them a d di- di diverting di diverting fullness over the shoulders A typical dress of this character is sketched at the tb extreme left of to- to today's today's to today's days day's page Another variation of pleated full full- fullness fullness ness is sketched on the tho central Sc Scare fig fig- figure figore ore are of the page pare This frock elaborate elaborate elaborate rate for tor the present temper of the mode mode was Wa worn at the during the th tournament nt Tho The pleats are in the form of shaped fan go- go go and are set into the skirt after the tho mariner manner of t PleAted panda at t the shoulders loud lend a effect to the short sleeves 1110 Advices from front Cannes say MJ that Chanel is n well represented Oft on a the There i is a virtual acre erue for her little wool and silk s frocks with the hand nit sweater coat oat to match match One of the smartest of these noted during the last week wed is Ie in dark green velours de lame with a knit knIt- knItted knitted knitted ted jacket of green and white wool done rn m a broken broJen check pattern The pockets of the dress are knitted and anthe the jacket is trimmed trimmed wItha with a band scarf collar and cuffs of the woolen cloth Mme tIme Charlotte is b at Cannes on ona ona a flying visit from Paris andIS and IS weaving most effective sports frocks desIgned designed of coarse course by herself On the terrace at Princes Prince's Rock one morl morning ng she made mad her appearance in a beige and white plaid dress showing a tiered three-tiered skirt with a along along along long mat coot of the same fabric c made With similar flounces The dress dresa and mat coat were almost identical except for the rid red leather belt of the for for- former for former mer Childlike Frocks Worn By T Tennis Enthusiasts MOST lOST of the active feminine femmine par par- participants participants it at the Riviera tournament tournament ment mont are English which accounts for the more mor conventional frocks worn orn by the players themselves These are arc either of af crepe de Chine or knitted wool straight of line IllIe sleeveless and with very short skirts Thew e dresses have a sub deb look 1001 because of ot their simplicity and scantiness of skirt length Mrs Mra who is play play- playing playing ing the third year for the English cup which if she sho wms wins will give her also the English championship wears extremely short skirts Blurts and when jumping about the court looks like a II little girl gul bare armed and al- al aJmo almost al almost mo most t legged bare Her stockings lire are very thin and peau brul m color and match exactly her well tonal tanned and sinewy arms A survey of then the new mode node all as manifested ested from rom Cannes CaDDel to t Monte MonteCarlo MonteCarlo MonteCarlo Carlo indicates a continuation or- or orthe the slim wm silhouette v ned by an oc oc- occasional c onal flare Skirts have bare not reached the anticipated shortness of the be immediate war post-war days day they Urey are ar only shorter border than last White 13 is easily eaWy the dormant color for the th resort dress the th are arc usually ny in viv- viv vividly viv vividly idly contrasted hIgh shades shade And ADd A pleats are an almost universal char char- chara char a sf fd f the sports frock 1 IJ While White Above White serge sage Jr dress from J Jam Jamy am with l of brilliant i ie is e s t green wool l ool anda and a monogram inV in V y high colors colon lors At the tire right right- rightA Paton model b bA A morning costume of of b gage ge and anil andl l white hite wool roof plaid con con- con l colitis sage l con con- slating of ofa a dress and length foU-length faQ shaped fan pleat pleat- coat at af which l are almost identical eel J sections red of redin in The frock has a a red de Chine crepe ore M f leather belt and the coat oal red tire the s skirt i ir r t and loather bottom sleeves i s 5 t a R Rt t lS l'S o 0 f o Make Your Jewels Match l Trimmings 0 HE keynote of novelty in m the THE present Riviera toilette is often represented in lD the accessory This may be a jewel a scarf a para para- parasol parasol parasol sol hat or bag and is usually accompanied accompanied by something else which reo re- repeats re repeats peats the same motif Thus a small hat may have a matching scarf or neck kerchief Again AgUD the belt the bag and the shoes all match usually in m a colored leather In the evening It ItIS itis itis IS invariably the tho jewel that domi domi- dominates domi- domi dominates dominates nates At the Hotel de Paris Pans a wealthy wore a mar mar- marvelous mar emerald necklace whIch matched perfectly an otherwise in- in inconsequential in inconsequential consequential bit of green faCIng that appeared on the panels of oI her dress s Colorful Jewelry DISplayed On SlID Simple pIe White Dresses A AFTERNOONS AFTERNOONS at the Casino and Sporting Glob dob witness a pre pre- predominance predominance pre predominance dominance of the th simple white type of frock rock which borrows borrow its distinction fiats bon largely from rom the jeweled naves naves- envies which complete the toilette The touch of color that appears as a trimming on the dress be it ever so faint is brought into prominence by bya bya bya a jeweled brooch or a necklace in the identical shade One charming model was all w white te save for a faint amt suggestion sugg of green greenm greenm greenm m the th belt m belt m another the white whit SERVICE I The services Servian of the Fashion Department are at tin the di dis- dis disposal di of all aA Tribune readers reader Address Addren your inquiry to the I Fashion Editor and it will r receive immediate attention P Pk u Pu k r ry y Fri P 1 1 r a 1 1 r s i iy y Lanai Lamim Lam in model of a crepe deChine de deChIne deChine ChIne with pleated ponds panels The embroidery of rose spray um is u m III n id natural color symphony was only disturbed by green on OD the edges of oI the buttonholes The Too first fast of these was accompanied by an emerald necklace and the second by an emerald brooch In both cases the thin line of f color colorin colorin colorin in the body of the dress would have been unnoticed were it not for tor or the similarly hued jewels jewel weLs Frequently the simple dress is made the c e for the display of ofa ofa ofa a veritable kings king's ransom of jewels At Giro's Cum's one evening a simple white Callot model had just a touch of blue at the bodice The arm ann of the wearer of this frock was literally laved in a succession of bracelets studded with ith sapphires w Odd Silhouette in Egyptian Modes Io es HERE is a new silhouette for THERE evenIng which is more daring than it is becoming It recalls vaguely the th Egyptian mode mod of last lad season for it is concentrated in the center front where when the skirt is caught together raised to the nor nor- normal normal normal mal waistline and allowed to hang hangin in loose loose blousing folds at the back back very much as if a hand had bad caught hold of a generous part of the skirt in the center front and feed It at that point The gown for evening has all allI I sorts of the appendages appendages the full float float- floating mg ing back bark tunics of Jenny the nar- nar narrow nar-i nar nar narrow row n ribbon hon pennants of Lanvin the tulle ruffles of Callot and the many panels with whICh Chanel frequently trims her robes robe du sir Tulle Tube Gowns Covens Chosen Ch By the Younger Set lH THE draped evening gown of crepe de tie Chine or other soft fabric is again agam gaming favor gaming gaining favor Some of Worth's most distinguished models for the RIVIera are made in lU this th manner manner- manner insoft in soft classic folds untrimmed save for a single girdle ornament or per per- perhaps per perhaps haps a bit of fringe or tassels on one side sole Tulle favored by is m most t frequently worn warn by the younger men members of the colony A blouse held in place by shoulder straps tops a very full fall skirt that th t is made of narrow more bouffant by a series sens ruffles raffles of the Ole tulle the whole caught together daringly m TO the center avatar front and almost touching the ground in back Too The Tb full J lower l skirt from froll th the 3 hips or the skirt a ged to toti tofit tofit ti fit onto a diagonal upper portion pew is 13 also poplar in lU which event the entire top portion of the gown is in piece one and draped the left hip A pretty fashion detail in con con- connection connection con connection with the evening owning toilette is the wearing of real flowers either on the shoulder o of the th gown or on the collar of the evening wran Orchids and gardenias are arc the two flowers in greatest or al London Accepts I Short Skirt Again uain k LONDON pLAIN Skirts Skirts shorter than those thos of last year small tight hats bats soft pastel colorings and the slim silhouette are ar to be tr the th rule for the fashionable woman here The short of course course comae apply 7 to those for tor day wear evening wear evening gowns dill are to be long Some SOB skirts will be very straight and severe and others will be flared at the tb knee knem m godet t style and capes epes c pe to wear wc we WIth the latter will also have hive The cape incidentally is 15 to t be II a popular feature of the spring fashions Despite the simplicity winch gay o ie characterizes the th mode mode LImo Lan L vin n-vin VIn am always decorative is 15 her usual large following ThIs known well known designer is achieving great success with large larf sprays prays of red roses interspersed with black foliage w with th which she adorns wI white ute crepe dresses Some of these models look as though a huge bunch l of toms roses had bep beer pinned on the front of the dress dres Three quarters length coats of broadcloth and kasha that wrap tightly about th the thi figure are arc makIng their appearance The u ultra finish for these mantles mantle is i rf course cel- cel cellar col collar lar and cuff bands band of black fix f aida anda lid and II a deep border of the at atthe atthe atthe the hem bem Blade Black F Fur For Dr T On Biscuit Colored Coat BLACK fur is also used to trim coats of t shorter len length There are jackets of or biscuit colored kasha t that at ere are re embroidered embro and trImmed With black Wack lynx These are are for after after- afternoon afternoon noon DOon wear with nth black satin |