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Show H B ' "' ,m MM"g" ' Mm ! irw iwimwiii win pin ii in in i i in, i T " """ ' ' ' i . Tin m i in ! ! I 1JATE5T FAR 1 5 FASHIONS -JJS M. :y, IHH1I1I 1H ff WPRING and Summer Embroidered Satin and Voile Gowns , J B Hflfll If " - . "! jr't CwC'ttwi'S 1 iM?'0w?iS,fifcrL'v nr&l C30f?3' u "''' r Af' 'fJM '"tfSwi-SRiiS II TtavOa winy Hi H ., . n . sS PW4w- Kfefe ii i -HSafiJ . - i&ffiWmi " w ebt a ukcoii 1 H BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. H "- "0 keep up with the changes in H fashion, to be correctly informed H wo).s and months in advance as. H l to the newest stles, In he able H J to announce antliontativcly what H J will be worn during the coming spa- j son, implies not only a ast amount of M I knowledge in all mntters pertaining to M dress, but just now also requires a gift M of prophecy and second sight thai should H niako the pioud possessor thereof u H much to be envied individual. Never hah H I there been n tinie when fashion informa- H I tiou was so varied and so eontiadictory. 1 ( Secret conclaves are hold behind closed H I doors, novel schemes of color and design H ) are given cut from time to lime, but in H r tentative manner, as though they were H asking for the approval of the public, not H j as llioucli (he order were issued as a H command. M Early Victorian fashions are thrcat- H ened there is no other word lo exprpss H the situation. There are certainly many! H ( clmrniiuu' details of this period in dress-., j , but the general effect was unbecoming. j ' clumsy 'and best suited to hide any H natural grace or slender lines. Exug- H genited Empire rtjles are aNo menacing H public 6afety and even decency, for with H the tendency to overexaggerntion of any H eccentricity of dress that prevails to .such I L .. H Blick cltct Coat with Orowcin Fnr. H J an alarming extent nowadayH the weal: H , points in fashion arc always eagerly H seized upon by the great band of would- H be conspicuous women, and in Uiese fash- M Ion lurk possibilities of exaggeration and M ecccntiicity too appalling fo contemplato. H ' Narrow Skirts StUl Fashionable. H Xarrow skirt3 will not ht. lanisbed, un- H fortunately, but I be nR, so-cnllcil hobblo l skirt will not be congiderod smart. Jt never l hns been so considered by really well j gowned women, although it has liad a M wondrous popularity. The scan but not M exaggeratedly (ight skirt cau be attractive H in appearance provided there is enough M width just above the knees; when there H is not enough width tho akirt draws in to H , Ithe ligure in mont ungraceful and unbo- H foiming effect. The nowost styles in skirts H W quite compUcatcd, but all apparently I lMifh $$& fW''W' W ,NsS ' ' atPA' i .J. -yaffil W$& mmriiiill PlMf S M WWutop.de Chinese. Gown .. M '';f& -j. r.Mlt MMaI 'mWml WJU Photo Copjricht, 10U. by Reutllnccr H - Liberty Satin Gown Embroidered in Silk Photo Copyright, 1911, by RcutUngcr ExcJaaire Copyright, 1911, New Yort Hcrali , are designed to give the appearance of being quite scant around th ankles, fortunately for-tunately calling for more width nboe two and a half and two yards in width is perhaps an Improvement over the narrower nar-rower models of the autumn, when skirts les than two yards wide were attempted as a fashion. Satin is again to 1c fashionable as a material for spring aud summer, a much I 'nit' Cloth Ccatumo lor ilocrolnj, lighter weight, of necessity than has been used for the winter costume, but not the tfco light weight, for that is not appropri-ltc. appropri-ltc. Mack Liberty satin gowns, as well .ss the coat and skirt styles, will be made up in the arious designs that hate already appeared. For the daytime the short skirt will continue to be in style, but in late afternoon aud evening the iongcr train will once more be popular. This applies especially espe-cially to black satin. Black orOpe de Chine, plain and figured, is to be smart, and in colors as well as black the figured or brocaded crepe de Chines arc most effects effec-ts e not in any conspicuous wayj simply from the beauty of design and coloring. Transparent Fabrics Popular. Silk voile, marquisette and, in fact, all thin, transparent fabrics, are exhibited in endless variety and nrc to be most popular this spring aud summer. Making up gray, while and light materials o"cr dark or fancy lining Is one oC the marked styles this season, and, although not absolutely ab-solutely a new idea, is carried out so successfully as to gic tho appearance of being quite the latest notion. It seems a strange state of affairs, an odd' taste, flint demands that not only the lining' itself but tho trimming, far richer than the outer drapery, should be underneath and only show through the transparent fabric. In contradistinction to this, the lining of satin and cloth coats wlth'chif-' foil has been thought very smart for' .some time. A brocade lining trimmed! with bando of late nr passementerie Is' veiled with white or p.ile gray silk oilej 'or marquisette, through which show in-J in-J distinctly the brocade and the trimming. Tho wnist may perhaps rccal more of tho trimming, for above where the tichu or I surplice folds join at the belt there is a 'space lert that is filled in with the trimming. trim-ming. It must be confessed the effect is attractive and gives the appearance of a delightful disregard ot expense, for there are in this fnslnon two, entire gowns, both of good material. Fascinating White Gowns. The white gowns Tor the coming season arc inscinatingly beautiful. Exquisite laces and embroideries are combined with rare skill, so that encliFOts off the other's ppr-fectiou ppr-fectiou of detail. The most popular of the Ince gown3 arc on simple flat lines ; the figure that is the upper part is sharply I outlined. If there nrc folds of material they are t cry .flat and do "ot conceal any natural linns. Some of the skirts aie made with a scant flounce, sometimes: two flounces; others are all long, straignt lines, for the straight Hues arc still in demand. de-mand. Most exquisite embroidery, hand work, in silk or in the material itself, is n noticeable feature of the new gowns, and this trimming forms a heavy, deep design de-sign around the skirt. It sometimes is finished fin-ished at the hem with a fold of satin, silk, velvet or chiffon, and this is really i more effecthe than the malerinl itself. 1 The colors of thu embrodery are the sub- t jeet of much thought. Whether the same ' color as the gown or sieml different shades of the same will bu best, or - whether some striking contrast will he that of traditional good taste. Every tbe most effective, mdividnal tnste or theljaw of drrss, sac aloue that demanding taste of the designer ha-, to decide. The originality to the point bt eccentricity, is crae for tlie China and pearl bead cmbrol-' violated by some of the models, which der.v which is now rampant oer the land I are declared" to bo extremely smart and has ji certain but limited influence, and 'which have, in fact, ' the quality of beads are interspersed throughout some of. startling on,, into .an nma7.ed interest, if the most elaborate patterns This has not admir.it ion A simple blouse costume nothing to do with the bended embroideries, there seems no other wordlo describe of all kinds or the beaded net gowns, bo it the loosely fitiincr bod.ee, which blouses ".wliich are quite another order icr- obviously over the belt, madefof ' ., Liberty silk has for instance, a most Among the newest models are many elaborate garniture of evelet hole eiu-Acrj eiu-Acrj lemarbalilo olio, both from the broidery aiound the skirtl There is n, ltandpoint of cuirent fashions and from trimming on the. bodice at all Tin blouse buttons down the front, is cut with fflj a round neck and Hbow sleeves. Tho M girdle is broad and made of gathered WH material, producing the efl'cct of an enor- J inous waist line. The skirt is plwited '' and also has the effect of being fastened !lj down the front. Except for the clabo- ' jj rate garniture before mentioned the co"- j fcj tumc is one that would formerly have ' r been considered a girlishly simple frock , I suited only to the incenuc in her hours of I ense, but tho striking skirt trimming quite T J takes the frock out of this class, and yet '' he extremely informal design seems j scarcely suited to any other. '; ,' 5 Lace and Crepe Model. ' I. An exquisite new model which would , !fc be becoming to a slender woman whose I height is sufficient to carry off the clabo- L rato effect of the waist and skirt garni- W ture has a bodice of white embroidered il crepe de Chine, draped with broad lace II deeply pointed, which continues over the 11 arm mid forms the leee.s. The lace , I skirt is cut away to show an underskirt f of embroidered crepe de Chine. The lace 5 overskirt is finished w ith deep points on j 5? both sides of the front panel; the lace S border extends oer the train and is J caught up the back of the skirt in a ' t highly decorative fashion. The costume : is completed with a ribbon girdle and long IJ ends. - H ! |