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Show """""y lHflflflfl OLD STYLE IN VOGUE?" l Designs That Were Popular In 1830 Have Found Favor YAH Dressmakers Are CaHcd On to Solve a M Great Problem. i AH i bbbbbV fHE d I s e r i m I n ntlng dressmakers havo n serious problem to settle set-tle Just now. In tho 1S30 designs which nro fast becoming be-coming tho smartest and newest of fashions for 1903 tho cape, tho rcvers, mantelet nnd pelonue play an Important part. Tho grave question to bo ilocldod Is whether their gracefully falling lines, which aro Inseparably associated with tho eloping shoulders of long ago, will seem tolerable on tho square, sometimes some-times pointedly Bquarc, shoulders ot to day. Tho cape, rovers, mantelet nnd pelerine aro here, along with tho lm-monne lm-monne flowing sleeves and voluminous volumin-ous frilled Bklrts, and about torty-flvo women out of fifty have Bquarc shoulders. It will be scon, therefore, that the question Is ot Importance. Aa to just what Is tho best thing to do under the circumstances, opinion is much divided at present. Many women of an independent cast ot mind, and somo others who believe be-lieve in piquant contrasts, maintain the fact that sloping ahouldors were once worn with capes and pelerines Is no reason why squaro ones should not becomo thorn Just ns well. But that tho eternal fltncscR of things cannot can-not bo eluded bo lightly Is shown by tho fact that tho Illustrators who seek to adapt their handsomo girls to tho prevailing stylo of dress and tho dress to tho girls have of lato considerably toned down tho aggressive aggres-sive squareness of shoulder, which only a short tlmo ago was ono of tho most valuablo possessions of each proprietary typo of girl. Squaro shoulders havo been admired admir-ed from tlmo to tlmo. Tho Egyptians admired them and so did the Crooks, but from tho days of Venus do 1830 Stylet on Modern Shoulder. Medici until thoy camo in again with tho pro-Itaphaelltes thoy were eclipsed by the luxurious fall and Clytlo-llko droop of the shoulders called swan-llko by tho poetical and champagne bottlo by tho irreverent. The high favor of tho sloping shoulder shoul-der came In tho 30s, wlta the fashions fash-ions which domandod tholr support and became them so well that the combined influenco of fashion and shouldors prevailed for thrco decades. In themselves theso wcro gracious fashions, rich, flowing, half concealing, conceal-ing, half revealing. A trlflo too abundant abund-ant for the stout woman thoy may' have been, but a blessing for tho thin one. However you look at It, the freak-Ishnosa freak-Ishnosa which has revived them for a vigorous and broad-shouldered generation gen-eration Is past understanding. What Is a poor girl to do? She baa her squaro shoulders and has acquired them by bard labor. Sbo can't got rid of them for she's not a Gibson or a Christy girl on paper to bo subtly and Imperceptibly modified modi-fied to tho requirements of tho mode. One dressmaker suggests somo neat little pads, which by shortening tho length of tho nock would glvo a perfect slopo to tho shoulders. These In Our Grandmothers' Day. would bo carefully mado to suit each pair of shoulders, tho dress would bo fitted over them and thoy would finally fin-ally bo sowed In tho dress. But, of courso, they would, bo of no use in the evening frock. Another suggestion Is tho resort to the all-powerful massago, to abstain ab-stain from any violent uso of tho arms and shoulders and to spend ns much Umo as posslblo with heavy weights tn each hand to pull down tho bhoul-dors. Of course, a girl may Join tho In- ' HflflJ dependent party and declnro that a flflj 3harp anglo In her rnpo collar la HflflJ much smarter than n soft Incline, flflflj but it is pretty safo to predict that flflflj It It's decided that sloping shoulders .HflflJ nro tho only proper kind to go with 'iflVfll An Olavririie Beauty. M 1830 fashions tho required Bhouldcrff flflfl will bo forthcoming. flflfl |